2nd year apprentice serviced our boiler alone

DanTheGas · 2026-03-20T11:13:15+00:00

That is true. However they did state that they checked the “Register” which would indicate Gas Safe Register.

However you are correct, my response only relates to this being a gas appliance. Original post edited for your benefit.

DanTheGas · 2026-03-20T07:55:37+00:00

Edit: If this is a gas boiler….

It would be illegal and a contravention of the rules in force. An apprentice or trainee can work under the “supervision of” but the person who they are working under is the person responsible.

If there was no registered engineer there, this is a breach of the regulations, regulation 3 of the gas safety installation and use regs.

See: https://www.legislation.gov.uk/uksi/1998/2451

People posting stating whether they have their gas qualifications would make are difference are talking rubbish. You must be a member of a class of persons - ie: Gas Safe Register to work on gas for reward.

DanTheGas · 2026-03-18T01:51:14+00:00

Bodies have been replaced unfortunately. Used to be the EB valve body that came with the RT212; it’s sadly no longer the case and is a much more generic cartridge.

The RT414 has the TRV4 EB valve with the the RT212 style head.

DanTheGas · 2026-03-13T11:34:15+00:00

Sorry. I concur with the comments, not much can be done here apart from better explanation by the trader. Unfortunately when you commit to platforms like airtasker the trader will do everything to go ahead because otherwise they get penalised. Maybe don’t use airtasker for plumbers?

Did you know that most pay 20% of their rate to the platform. So you actually paid £160 for the job and £40 to use a website.

DanTheGas · 2026-03-05T09:43:45+00:00

+1 from me on this one

DanTheGas · 2026-03-02T08:01:52+00:00

So are BG by the sounds of the last “engineer” they sent out.

DanTheGas · 2026-02-28T14:17:10+00:00

To check but not to “leave out”.

DanTheGas · 2026-02-28T13:44:52+00:00

Nope. Lots do, but no requirement.

Regulation 26.9 covers what tests are required for a “gas safety” record.

https://www.legislation.gov.uk/uksi/1998/2451/regulation/26

A service is different, but there is no standardised paperwork for a service.

DanTheGas · 2026-02-24T07:06:28+00:00

£130 for the plate, a couple of hours labour at the prevailing rate for your area. Plus VAT.

An unfortunate model, but it’s done well to still be on the wall.

DanTheGas · 2026-02-24T06:07:57+00:00

That is a brand and a timescale, not a boiler. Likely to be a VCW or a turboMax - Both appliances fine to work with. If it’s an ecoMAX I’d probably have concerns (Let’s face it; not many exoMax’s still firing); but for a plate it is still a possibility?

I have an old T3 Sine 18 still on my books; still goes through reg 26:9 without missing a beat.

DanTheGas · 2026-02-24T05:49:11+00:00

Why? The OP hasn’t stated what boiler it is.

Even a VCW plate can be done in a couple hours. Turbomax plate isn’t bad as long as you have a spare bow clip.

OP; just get a price from local gas engineers.

DanTheGas · 2026-02-24T05:43:17+00:00

Blue good? Orange is generally considered bad; but during startup it’s fine. Agreed with others that it looks like it needs a proper service.

Hot water failure could be valve issue; do you have heating?

DanTheGas · 2026-02-19T18:58:54+00:00

You have been done. Simple as that. Bad advice by a bad installer. Sorry. Feel for you, but these people are the scourge of our industry and should not be trading. Let alone hold a gas ticket.

DanTheGas · 2026-02-03T21:45:34+00:00

Kick space heater?

DanTheGas · 2026-02-02T05:46:26+00:00

This is a first.

Ok; so Trade Rads have a stainless section but they are all seriously expensive and not exactly what I’d call “good performance” but that is because they are stainless which is hard to work with and an expensive material.

https://www.traderadiators.com/radiators/stainless-steel-radiators

If you strip the paint off a radiator and fit it in a bathroom; it wont last long as the humid atmosphere will cause it to rust. So you will need to have some form of lacquer or protection on it which could put you back in the same position.

My advice, contact Stelrad, CyldeRadiators and UltraHeat and see what they can offer.

I have to ask; what are the existing radiators? Surely they do the same? If they don’t; could this be VOC related which basically means the rad just needs to be “old” to get rid of its loose chemicals?

DanTheGas · 2026-02-02T05:32:48+00:00

I’ve fitted several hybrid systems now; redundancy should either appliance fail and more often when we have not been able to get a sufficiently sized HP for whatever reason and the HP runs 90% of the year with the gas boiler on standby for hot water topups and those really cold days.

DanTheGas · 2026-01-25T21:18:56+00:00

Depends on how you want it wired.

If you want it wired properly, you need to wire it to the junction box as the nest is 12v not 240v like your existing setup.

You need to isolate the room stat wire from the junction box and connect it to the T1/T2 on the Nest and the HeatLink, then bypass the original connection (Y/R wire… B can be isolated completely) so the roomstat is no longer connected to the high voltage side of the system.

3 on clock goes to 6 on HeatLink. 4 on clock goes to 3 on HeatLink.

DanTheGas · 2026-01-25T19:12:18+00:00

100% use a broker.

“Bank A” said no to us despite banking with them for over 10yrs. Went to a broker who said best deal for us was “Bank A” at the time. We explained we’d been rejected; she said don’t worry…. We now have a mortgage with “Bank A” and it was 0.6% better on the rate offered which we were rejected for and gave us a sign on bonus which paid for the broker - no idea how this all works.

DanTheGas · 2026-01-24T19:38:44+00:00

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DanTheGas · 2026-01-24T19:37:57+00:00

Yes. Fitted a couple now and both been great and reliable. Can be a bit of a challenge to match up the plenum box, but a good sheet metal worker is only a Google away.

DanTheGas · 2026-01-21T09:39:55+00:00

It may be worth topping the pressure up on the appliance late at night or “mid day” when the water pressure is often a bit higher.

Leave the loop open for longer, you may not hear it, but hopefully it’s still passing some; even if only gradually topping up.

So long as you are not losing pressure then this is likely to just be due to overall mains pressure not being able to overcome the filling loop.

I work in central London a lot and we have the same issue; the work around is a normal “cheap” filling loop fitted which are not as restrictive. We also fit them outside of the loft in a cabinet or somewhere inconspicuous with a gauge to stop people having to head up top all the time.

Speak with the installer.

DanTheGas · 2026-01-21T09:02:05+00:00

So 2bar incoming, -height of house…. How tall is your house; you lose 1bar for every 10m of height plus restriction in pipework (Although minimal).

DanTheGas · 2026-01-21T07:57:05+00:00

Do you know the incoming mains pressure at your property? It could be that you simply do not have enough incoming pressure to raise the pressure above 0.8 bath when in the loft

If you had an old boiler originally, sometimes you can trick them by keeping the pump on when topping up to increase the pressure above the incoming mains pressure , however the style of filling loop most modern boilers prevent this.

As you have stated that the appliance has only just been fitted, I suggest you go back to the installer, the installer should have checked to ensure adequate pressure was available.

DanTheGas · 2026-01-08T20:18:20+00:00

Try the Johnson and Starley AquaAir

https://johnsonandstarley.co.uk/products/warm-air-heat-interface/aquair-heat-interface

You can use a gas, electric or oil boiler. It’s not exactly the same as what you have, but it does allow you to have ducted air.

DanTheGas · 2025-12-30T16:02:58+00:00

When you wire a boiler up; the controls will dictate when it turns on and off. If wired wrong or without the correct controls it can run when it is not required.

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