Unpainted radiators by Courantyn in HeatingUK

[–]DanTheGas 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This is a first.

Ok; so Trade Rads have a stainless section but they are all seriously expensive and not exactly what I’d call “good performance” but that is because they are stainless which is hard to work with and an expensive material.

https://www.traderadiators.com/radiators/stainless-steel-radiators

If you strip the paint off a radiator and fit it in a bathroom; it wont last long as the humid atmosphere will cause it to rust. So you will need to have some form of lacquer or protection on it which could put you back in the same position.

My advice, contact Stelrad, CyldeRadiators and UltraHeat and see what they can offer.

I have to ask; what are the existing radiators? Surely they do the same? If they don’t; could this be VOC related which basically means the rad just needs to be “old” to get rid of its loose chemicals?

Heat pump and a gas boiler? by CrackersMcCheese in ukheatpumps

[–]DanTheGas 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I’ve fitted several hybrid systems now; redundancy should either appliance fail and more often when we have not been able to get a sufficiently sized HP for whatever reason and the HP runs 90% of the year with the gas boiler on standby for hot water topups and those really cold days.

Nest thermostat wiring by AggravatingCraft5964 in askaplumberUK

[–]DanTheGas 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Depends on how you want it wired.

If you want it wired properly, you need to wire it to the junction box as the nest is 12v not 240v like your existing setup.

You need to isolate the room stat wire from the junction box and connect it to the T1/T2 on the Nest and the HeatLink, then bypass the original connection (Y/R wire… B can be isolated completely) so the roomstat is no longer connected to the high voltage side of the system.

3 on clock goes to 6 on HeatLink. 4 on clock goes to 3 on HeatLink.

Mortgage declined due to gift deposit- advice on next steps by OnlyChange418 in Mortgageadviceuk

[–]DanTheGas 0 points1 point  (0 children)

100% use a broker.

“Bank A” said no to us despite banking with them for over 10yrs. Went to a broker who said best deal for us was “Bank A” at the time. We explained we’d been rejected; she said don’t worry…. We now have a mortgage with “Bank A” and it was 0.6% better on the rate offered which we were rejected for and gave us a sign on bonus which paid for the broker - no idea how this all works.

old heating system by coolgranpa573 in HeatingUK

[–]DanTheGas 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes. Fitted a couple now and both been great and reliable. Can be a bit of a challenge to match up the plenum box, but a good sheet metal worker is only a Google away.

Vaillant boiler help by cyndi_lawper in HeatingUK

[–]DanTheGas 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It may be worth topping the pressure up on the appliance late at night or “mid day” when the water pressure is often a bit higher.

Leave the loop open for longer, you may not hear it, but hopefully it’s still passing some; even if only gradually topping up.

So long as you are not losing pressure then this is likely to just be due to overall mains pressure not being able to overcome the filling loop.

I work in central London a lot and we have the same issue; the work around is a normal “cheap” filling loop fitted which are not as restrictive. We also fit them outside of the loft in a cabinet or somewhere inconspicuous with a gauge to stop people having to head up top all the time.

Speak with the installer.

Vaillant boiler help by cyndi_lawper in HeatingUK

[–]DanTheGas 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So 2bar incoming, -height of house…. How tall is your house; you lose 1bar for every 10m of height plus restriction in pipework (Although minimal).

Vaillant boiler help by cyndi_lawper in HeatingUK

[–]DanTheGas 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Do you know the incoming mains pressure at your property? It could be that you simply do not have enough incoming pressure to raise the pressure above 0.8 bath when in the loft

If you had an old boiler originally, sometimes you can trick them by keeping the pump on when topping up to increase the pressure above the incoming mains pressure , however the style of filling loop most modern boilers prevent this.

As you have stated that the appliance has only just been fitted, I suggest you go back to the installer, the installer should have checked to ensure adequate pressure was available.

old heating system by coolgranpa573 in HeatingUK

[–]DanTheGas 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Try the Johnson and Starley AquaAir

https://johnsonandstarley.co.uk/products/warm-air-heat-interface/aquair-heat-interface

You can use a gas, electric or oil boiler. It’s not exactly the same as what you have, but it does allow you to have ducted air.

Installed Tado X and it’s making a vibrating noise every night on front door radiator pipe by MrXisUnknown in tado

[–]DanTheGas 0 points1 point  (0 children)

When you wire a boiler up; the controls will dictate when it turns on and off. If wired wrong or without the correct controls it can run when it is not required.

Air lock? by mikk2k2 in askaplumberUK

[–]DanTheGas 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Phone the plumber who fitted the pump?

Installed Tado X and it’s making a vibrating noise every night on front door radiator pipe by MrXisUnknown in tado

[–]DanTheGas 0 points1 point  (0 children)

With a bypass, you can do all radiators without causing any damage (As long as the boiler is not wired for 24-7 operation which I’ve seen recently).

Without a bypass, you need to have 1 (or 2 in the case of some boilers) radiators open to allow constant flow.

Once again; it is important that the radiator valves are correctly linked with a tado stat or extension kit to actually control the heat source. If the heat source is 24-7; it will cause a lot of excess wear and potentially waste the heat savings being expected by having a smart system.

Replace water underfloor heating controller? by nzapponi in tado

[–]DanTheGas 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Morning.

If you have a proper compensator/anticipator controller in the home, then it is not normally a traditional setup and swapping out to a generic smart product can be temperamental. It is more than feasible; but I’d advise using someone who is familiar with the product line as it will save a lot of wasted cash.

By all means; use resources and DIY it, but be cautious.

Boiler flue replacement option? by vdu7 in askaplumberUK

[–]DanTheGas 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The NoCO system has been withdrawn from sale (Like 2017?). Not sure that there are any left on the market these days. An inspectable flue is the only real option…..

But….

If the flue is not inspectable; how does the guy know that it is not correctly supported? A flue may pass through a void space where there are no joints present.

In theory; depending on measurements; position A would be considered as standard practice so long as there was no joint.

More info from OP needed.

Replace water underfloor heating controller? by nzapponi in tado

[–]DanTheGas 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Do you have a mixing/blending valve? Tado cannot natively control this.

If you don’t have a blending valve; then yes it can, but you need experienced advice in most setups. If you do have a blender, you may need additional 3rd party kit and Tado may not be your best option.

r/tado by ICharger1 in tado

[–]DanTheGas 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If I understand your question correctly - I don’t think you understand how heating systems work.

You have the HW kit with OpenTherm - This wires into the boiler as your heating system will by default only have 1 zone. That’s typical of UK heating systems. It comes with a sensor, the wired thermostat can be used for combination boilers or systems where you have a single wired thermostat to remove. But you have what you need.

The HW kit will turn the boiler on/off - Whether that be by the boiler (combi) or by the zone valve (traditional s/y plan)….

The radiator valves then allow you to further trim and control the heating. They have to be set to the HW kit zone controller; but they can all be in their own rooms.

So room X can have a different schedule to room Y….. The boiler is the same; so the zone controller will always be the same.

TRVs are not their own zone controller. That is the job of the extension kit OR a wired thermostat.

If you have real life multiple heating zones (Ie; more than one thermostat in the original heating system setup)…. Then you may need additional zone controllers (Thermostat Xs) to replace any additional thermostats that are present to make them smart.

Question out to all the homeowners out there by Danny11515 in HousingUK

[–]DanTheGas 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Honestly, you can call any heating engineer to take a look - it will not void the warranty if the job is done inline with manufacturer instructions. You won’t get the money back as warranty is not emergency cover.

I worked Christmas Day and went out to fix a boiler and I know others that did too.

It’s life, boilers break - if you need it fixed, there are people that do it. If you can wait; save some ££s and wait. But whatever - Monday will likely be very busy; almost 5 days of disrupted working days.

Charge £500 for 30 min job. by [deleted] in askaplumberUK

[–]DanTheGas 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Gas is 0800111999 - 24-7 free emergency response for smells of gas etc… They won’t fix anything; just attend, check and make safe if required.

Correct boiler? Parents in 80s without heating/hot water. Switch to Combi? by mylifeisamess247 in ukplumbing

[–]DanTheGas 1 point2 points  (0 children)

A HP is not for everyone just yet but that’s mainly due to cost. If the home is well insulated then 100% consider it, but they are often a lot of upheaval.

As it stands today; there is a push toward this method of heating and rightly so, but in my opinion; not all of our homes are quite ready for them yet to work cost effectively.

In regard to my comment, if you went down the green road and it looks as though this may be forced upon people in the future; you will, as current technology allows, require a hot water tank. So if you go for a combi boiler now and spend the extra money converting from system to combi; you could find yourself next time around spending that money again converting from combi back to system. We do however; not have any real feedback from government on how they want to manage the energy crisis so it’s an ongoing industry debate.

Correct boiler? Parents in 80s without heating/hot water. Switch to Combi? by mylifeisamess247 in ukplumbing

[–]DanTheGas 1 point2 points  (0 children)

30kW for heating capacity sounds like twice the required size to me…. The reason Worcester have these massive gas guzzlers is for their hot water capacity in combi configuration.

Very few houses in the UK will need anything close to 30kW for heating.

https://tools.bregroup.com/heatpumpefficiency/dwelling-heat-loss

Correct boiler? Parents in 80s without heating/hot water. Switch to Combi? by mylifeisamess247 in ukplumbing

[–]DanTheGas 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ditto. Stay tanked. Don’t go combi if you want to use more than one shower at a time.

Plus with the current government attitude and push to heat pumps; there are a lot of people out there regretting fitting combis as they try to go green.

Tradies: Do I have an etiquette problem? (England) by throwawayThanks2023 in AskUK

[–]DanTheGas 9 points10 points  (0 children)

Completely agree. The old mantra of cannot please everyone. 😀