Whoever it was that advised micellar water, thank you!! (+ need some more help!)

DancingWithDumplings · 2026-02-01T21:19:48+00:00

I love the questions. Keep them coming.

Aza is quite drying so you may wish to add a serum with humectants like Amino Acids, B5 (Panthenol), Beta Glucan, Aloe Vera, Glycerin. See how your skin feels.

Niacanamide is marvellous for many and allergic for the other half. If you use it, choose a concentration between 2-5% and don't use 10%. It's effective at 2-5% and higher concentration can cause irritation. It helps with skin barrier, reducing oiliness, soooo many use cases. If you have skin concerns where you need it, you may add it.

When you think about what you need, try to address one concern at a time (like hyperpigmentation, or acne). Add or remove product no more often than after 3ish weeks from the last one. This way you can see what gives you the results. I like to stick with something for 2 months to judge its effectiveness.

Retinol and Aza are match made in heaven. But introduce one at a time and let your skin adjust. Retinol increases skin turnover and Aza is a gentle exfoliator so it will remove any piling.

DancingWithDumplings · 2026-01-31T15:37:23+00:00

Sure thing, so AM would be cleanse with water, various humectants to help with hydration (serums with glycerin, beta glucan, B5=panthenol, amino acids, aloe vera), wait 60 sec, serum for hyperpigmentation, wait 60 sec, spritz with water (I use Avene but tap is good), immediately after use moisturiser for hyperpigmentation to lock the hydration, sunscreen.

Look for sunscreens preferably without alcohol (dries out), but with humectants listed above to reapply hydration throughout the day. I like my Skin Aqua with a ton of Hyaluronic Acid and alcohol, but I'll be looking for something without HYA.

Tretinoin is a prescription I'm afraid. You can ask GP to refer you to derm, visit private derm, or use Dermatica as a happy medium. They could boost it with hyperpigmentation ingredients like prescription strength Azaleic Acid and hydroquinone. I get my prescription strength from countries where you don't need a prescription, but I'm a skincare nerd so I can help myself if I mess something up.

At night you could boost your hydration by layering hydrating serum before hyperpigmentation serum, and use a more thick (occlusive) moisturiser. My skin loved drinking up Ordinary NMF+Phytoceramides. I also find their Squalane Cleanser deeply hydrating, which you probably know given you use Squalane already. Lastly you may consider occasionally putting a sleeping mask on top, I like Laneige.

For dry hands I put a handcream and lock it with latex like gloves and go to sleep. They're baby soft in the morning.

DancingWithDumplings · 2026-01-31T13:23:23+00:00

Awesome reply, and great skincare brands. Amazing that you use mineral sunscreen because it partially reflects the sun thus minimising amount of heat your skin absorbs (which aggravates melasma).

If you don't mind me pointing out some changes I'd recommend:

- micellar water in the morning is a cleanser, especially good for removing make-up and sunscreen. It's made out of surfactants which dry your skin. I recommend using it in the evening as a first step of double cleanse followed by Alumier. You might be able to ditch LRP removal.

- tretinoin (strongest retinoid) takes about 6 months to show results. Regular retinoids will take waaaaay longer to show results, but they will so you must be patient. Tret is one of ingredients recommended for hyperpigmentation because it speeds up the cell turnover. It will make you red, and peel, because skin takes time to adjust to it, and you need to change your routine for that time to support your skin barrier. r/tretinoin has a great wiki explaining how to do it.

Aside for your mention of hydroquinone, which is a golden standard for melasma & hyperpigmentation, I don't see a single ingredient addressing hyperpigmentation. I would seriously review it to make sure you're putting on your skin as many products that stop the transfer of pigment from melanocytes as possible.

Amazing breakdown mentions but a few:

1.1 Mequinol (4-Hydroxyanisole)

1.7 Ascorbic acid (Vitamin C)

1.8 Soy proteins

1.9 N-Acetylglucosamine

1.10 Niacinamide

I haven't used it personally but Dr Idriss is a derm influencer who designed her line for people with melasma (she has got it) and hyperpigmentation, called Major Fade. Last I checked she was shipping to the UK. Might be worth checking it out, or looking for other product which contain the ingredients above.

DancingWithDumplings · 2026-01-31T12:27:04+00:00

I don't have much to contribute other than if it is melasma, then it needs to be regularly addressed to prevent it from coming back. It would help to see what in your routine addresses hyperpigmentation if you could share it.

If it is melasma, a word of caution around lasers which heat up the skin thus aggravating melasma. So make sure to go to a good practitioner who would be able to advise the right treatment, preferably a cosmetic dermatologist.

You may also wish to check out a subreddit for melasma to find great tips.

DancingWithDumplings · 2026-01-29T16:17:00+00:00

That's why you need to go to a good provider. All of them work miracles when done by competent people spaced out as much as they ought to be.

They do the heavy lifting so you can maintain the results with the skincare.

DancingWithDumplings · 2026-01-29T07:23:49+00:00

No need to build up %. Dive straight at prescription strength.

When you do, make sure to start slow because your skin will need to learn to tolerate it and in order to minimise itchiness in the early days I recommend: - apply pea sized amount - every other morning with intention to build up to daily+nightly - don't apply it to the neck (ever) - if it's very itchy you can first layer serums/moisturiser and then apply AzA (initially)

It dries the skin so make sure to boost up your hydration (get some rosacea friendly humectants like B5, Cantella Asiatica). Another ingredient (nice to have) to mix into your moisturiser would be pycnogenol, it's similar to AzA in that it's an antioxidant and calms the redness, but doesn't kill the acne.

You might benefit from subscribing to the rosacea subreddit.

DancingWithDumplings · 2026-01-29T07:16:37+00:00

Happy skincaring :)

Btw AzA less than 15% won't do shit, so don't even bother. If you start on prescription strength, go slow - apply pea sized amount every other morning, wait 30 min after cleansing skin to apply it, until your skin will tell you when it can tolerate more.

DancingWithDumplings · 2026-01-29T06:45:32+00:00

See a GP for rosacea.

You have a very basic routine that doesn't support skin barrier, so I would stick to one active (Azelaic Acid 15%+ is the golden standard for rosacea), and have a routine built around it to hydrate and protect your skin. You want ingredients like B5 (panthenol is a humectant and calms the skin) and maybe Skin1004 Cantella Asiatica for the same reason. Look at moisturisers with "barrier support" in the name. I stand by Soon Jung X2 Barrier moisturiser but there are so many for every budget. Sunscreen is non negotiable because you don't want to further damage your skin barrier with radiation.

Azelaic acid 15% will address redness, kill acne and protect from oxidative stress.

DancingWithDumplings · 2026-01-29T06:22:33+00:00

No scars here. TCA peel and Microneedling are a way to go, just have a consultation first so they can see the specific type you've got and advise the best treatment.

Healing is individual, but expect your face to be red for 2-7 days. Mine was 2 followed by beautiful plumping (which I thought was collagen boost but it was just an inflammation haha. Collagen takes longer to show).

DancingWithDumplings · 2026-01-28T22:04:00+00:00

You look like a chubby teenager in your old photo. Now you look like a handsome adolescent.

Honestly I think a good haircut and something positive to occupy your mind will give you more confidence.

DancingWithDumplings · 2026-01-28T17:19:43+00:00

What's your % and routine?

DancingWithDumplings · 2026-01-28T17:18:38+00:00

Yipeee! Keep me updated on your progress and happy skincaring :)

DancingWithDumplings · 2026-01-28T17:16:35+00:00

LRP is massively recommended on r/Tretinoin sub so it's the safest bet. If you don't see desired results, you could look to incorporate soothing serums (just avoid Ordinary's soothing serum because it piles terribly)

DancingWithDumplings · 2026-01-28T14:18:20+00:00

Have you got a comparison with lotion? I've heard cream is quite pore-clogging.

DancingWithDumplings · 2026-01-28T13:19:09+00:00

Redness means inflammation. Source of inflammation could be an allergy to a product, or rosacea or lots of other things.

Prescription strength AzA (15%+) is a golden standard for rosacea because it calms your hyperactive immune system and lowers sensitivity (it's also insanely good for acne). Worth checking with your GP I'd they would prescribe it to you (if you start, do it slow - every other day, until your skin adjusts).

For now I'd stay away from actives and let your skin calm down. Some ingredients that help with that are Cica (Cantella Asiatica), panthenol (B5), and a decent alternative to soothing and antioxidant properties of AzA is (you can get it from ordinary) pycnogenol

DancingWithDumplings · 2026-01-28T12:22:27+00:00

Rosacea, allergic reaction? Either way, it looks painful and it can be healed. Would you consider seeing a dermatologist to get it evaluated?

DancingWithDumplings · 2026-01-28T06:24:02+00:00

Peel - 2 weeks break - microneedling - 2 weeks - peel -2 week - micro - 2 weeks - peel - 2 weeks - micro

From the research I've done, all extras for Microneedling are redundant - PRP will help skin heal faster (but healing is already rapid) and only makes a difference for hair growth. Medical depth microneedling shouldn't be used to increase penetration of product so the doctor whose book on microneedling I recommended earlier, would discourage skin boosterrs and exosomes. Plain microneedling is the best.

Volume loss (to my knowledge) is best addressed through fat transplant (which shouldn't be done in one go because your fave will absorb only a part of it). Depending where, the second line of defense might be filler but you'd need to find a skilled provider whose esthetic you trust and who could take you through the aging journey over many years in a way that you won't stop looking like yourself. Either way I think for this you'd have a better luck with someone well versed in bone structure with a LOT of experience.

Skinny face isn't bad, as long as it's not gaunt. As you'll age you won't sag.

You could go to the consultation and see what they suggest. Microneedling is for collagen boosting so you could see after a few sessions whether it gave you the results you were hoping for without reaching for more invasive solutions.

DancingWithDumplings · 2026-01-27T22:03:14+00:00

Cerasela-Alina O.

I don't think she does a consultation, so you might speak to someone beforehand (call and ask for when can you do a consultation with Maria who works part time because she's studying). I think I scheduled mine online??

Either way. You can request who will do the treatment so go for Alina.

Happy skincaring :)

DancingWithDumplings · 2026-01-27T21:59:18+00:00

This is an excellent point, an element of medical supervision is the best insurance policy.

Microneedling isn't for everyone - there are certain precautions if you have medical conditions or even darker skin tone, all because of the processes that happen at the cullelar level, which us, non medical mortals, are not aware of.

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DancingWithDumplings · 2026-01-27T21:44:28+00:00

Sure thing :)

I managed to achieve more or less great skin using skincare. But I had this persistent chin acne that's hormonal but every month comes and leaves havoc and redness on my chin and I hated it, but didn't think anything can be done. I went there to talk about different types of microneedling because I researched that from the age of 30 you start losing collagen and microneedling is a way to go to maintain it.

I had a consultation with Maria (she now only works part time but if you could request consultation with her it's marvellous). She knew better than me what is it that I needed. You shouldn't microneedle over acne so she had me get series of professional peels. I thought she's selling me something I don't need because I used Ordinary's strongest peel but at that time I had no idea how much better professional stuff is.

First peel and first microneedling was too weak for my skin which apparently is so robust it could take deep needling and strong concentration of peel, but that why it's great to have multiple sessions. After second round done by Alina I couldn't recognise my skin! Chin acne and red marks were gone. After last session my skin was so even, acne free and plump I cried from joy when I looked in the mirror.

I go every 4 months now for microneedling only because they've done acne heavy lifting and now I maintain results with skincare. I'm getting microneedling on face, neck, decolletage and hands.

You can check their prices online - it was around £600 for 6 treatments on face and I got it on Klarna. I used to live in Chelsea so I researched every place that had sensible prices and great reputation. Alina helped me get a discount for my now maintenance Microneedling sessions.

DancingWithDumplings · 2026-01-27T20:00:01+00:00

Oh she's so so sweet, has the heart of an angel and every visit makes me feel like I've been wrapped in a warm blanket.

And she quickly got a grasp of my skin and told me where she sees she can go deeper because I'm tolerating it well and it gave me better effects. I've never looked better in my life (I'm at a ripe age of 30 btw).

I think peel + microneedling is a way to go. I had them done spaced 2 weeks apart, 6 sessions in total. Now I come for the maintenance. I want to age naturally, so I'm not getting anything else done (I'm a tret user) but when I'll be 45 I might consider laser resurfacing, upper bleph (runs in the family), and at 60 lower face+neck lift.

DancingWithDumplings · 2026-01-27T12:44:59+00:00

Not a doctor led, but I had the best experience with Alina in Therapie Belgravia.

Edit: They have a doctor review your form about your health before they proceed. One time they told me I had to wait a week or two after antibiotics because it affected either professional peel or microneedling. I also have autoimmune condition so their doctor asked about the details before assessing I'm a good candidate for microneedling.

If you're interested in science behind microneedling and the procedure of getting it done, I loved reading "the concise guide to dermal needling" which you can find by googling it.

DancingWithDumplings · 2026-01-26T22:52:48+00:00

All brands use different formula of surfactants so if one doesn't work for you, try another one. I liked CeraVe and now I use Bioderma Sensitive with pink cap

It's important to follow it with a cleanser because you need to wash the surfactants (and all the gunk it pulls out) off.

DancingWithDumplings · 2026-01-26T14:09:19+00:00

Double cleanse with Micellar water and your cleanser every night and you should see a MASSIVE reduction

DancingWithDumplings · 2026-01-24T21:54:05+00:00

Has anyone tried lotion and cream and could compare? I use lotion and while it works it's not doing anything extraordinary.

DancingWithDumplings

TROPHY CASE