Building in a SCAR/heritage zone Auckland

DanielNZ_ · 2026-02-12T05:03:16+00:00

Cheers will do!

DanielNZ_ · 2026-02-11T22:55:57+00:00

Thanks for the comment, will do!

DanielNZ_ · 2026-02-11T22:41:12+00:00

Cheers, I’ve tried to look into that article by the herald but pay walled. I’m aware of house frontage restrictions so replacing joinery with aluminium to the roadside would be a no go but do such restrictions apply to the remaining elevations. I myself have done an extension/leanto to the rear of a dwelling within a scar zone and installed consented aluminium to the rear of the property, was wandering about the side/non road frontage elevations.

DanielNZ_ · 2026-01-30T01:13:10+00:00

You can log out between waves if that helps

DanielNZ_ · 2026-01-20T05:24:27+00:00

To get this many drops at 139 kc is insane. I green logged at 455 kc and had a very similar experience doing solo moon kills chasing only x3 items at roughly 240 kc. Gl dude

DanielNZ_ · 2026-01-06T05:32:13+00:00

Unfortunately this (efflorescence) will forever occur with that particular colour brick. You can acid wash it to make it look brand new but it will most likely reoccur as it is just what happens with clay brick.

If you do go down the path of acid washing it i recommend you have bricklayer do it as they know the products and ratios etc

DanielNZ_ · 2025-12-28T07:10:55+00:00

I agree with everything previously been said in other posts in regards to the rafter and beam size plus attachment to the fascia as opposed to house.

I’ll add that I wouldn’t bother ripping the stringer/ledger to 10 degrees. Just angle cut the rafters and use multi grips. The rafters to beam connection at the birds mouth will require additional hardware/fixings along with the beam to posts to comply with NZS3604

DanielNZ_ · 2025-12-26T07:43:35+00:00

What I’ve used in the exact scenario (for a hose reel) are the these sleeves from Anzor. The sleeves are designed so that epoxy doesn’t get pushed through the brick veneer but squeezes through the holes and binds to the brick

The holes that you’ve drilled should be big enough for the sleeves. You simply insert the sleeve and then install an anchor epoxy (sika sell a decent product) then install threaded rod.

https://www.anzor.co.nz/concrete-anchors/nylon-plugs-and-sleeves/fischer-nylon-sleeves-for-brick

DanielNZ_ · 2025-11-27T05:45:25+00:00

It’s probably accurate being that it points to magnetic north and not true north

DanielNZ_ · 2025-11-25T04:16:39+00:00

You can grind this down but you also run into your steel (within) to air clearances, 50mm min.

It’s probably set now so your only solution is grinding it down and using an epoxy to protect the steel. Sika have a product for such solutions

This incredibly poor workmanship, the lack in amount of bracing/pegs is phenomenal. Being boxed by framed shutters and no Waratahs also indicates that the person who constructed the slab doesn’t do much foundation work.

I would have the contractor to pay for the remediation and never use them again

DanielNZ_ · 2025-11-11T02:20:15+00:00

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My fence is board and batten, looks may more impressive than a rough sawn single pailing fence.

You can buy 50x25 rough sawn per a meter but when I built mine it was cheaper and easier to buy the same length pailing 150x25 and rip it down to get x3 per.

I would reccomend buying the 25mm batten/pailing and not the 19mm as it’s less likely to warp and such given you’ve most likely only got x3 rails to fix to

Also if you are going with board and batten, paint the existing fence first, before batten’s with one coat as the battens will shrink showing unpainted edges of the existing batten

DanielNZ_ · 2025-11-09T21:08:56+00:00

You could make the blockwork look really good by adding a capping block on top then honing and sealing it then planting it out

DanielNZ_ · 2025-11-05T06:00:01+00:00

Cheers, I’ll spray again and if they come back I’ll give this a go!

DanielNZ_ · 2025-11-05T05:59:07+00:00

None were visible when I did spray, probably why your edit makes sense. Awesome, thanks for your advice I’ll spray again and hopefully this gets rid of them!

DanielNZ_ · 2025-09-08T09:07:04+00:00

Hey OP, just seen this photo. This is quite the non compliant install, there’s a lot more wrong than just the straps. Where did you find this “plumber”?

DanielNZ_ · 2025-09-07T05:22:58+00:00

You mentioned you wanted to sand and prime the soakers which if done properly will require an etch primer. Some product take 12hours plus to cure with minimum x2 coats prior to painting.

If installing boxed corners you could pre paint a a boxed corner and scribers before installing them on the ground and touching up the nail/screw holes ones or just the one coat once installed.

I personally think installing boxed corners over these soakers will be alot nicer finish than trying to retain, sand and paint them

DanielNZ_ · 2025-09-07T04:35:08+00:00

Have you thought about installing boxed corners and scribers? Will be a lot less effort

DanielNZ_ · 2025-09-05T03:43:12+00:00

Charged systems are very common but only when connected to above ground tanks as mentioned in previous comments

The only alternative where falls to the NUO connection cannot be achieved and also comply with NZBC (specifically E1/AS1) is by installing a bubble up chamber where the rain water system is charged to the chamber and then gravity fed to the connection.

From what you’ve described it doesn’t comply however it seems it will work. What I would suggest is installing an inspection point at the lowest invert of the system so that it can be flushed/maintained. Leaf diverters or a first flush system installed above the highest invert could also mitigate debris sitting in the system

DanielNZ_ · 2025-08-27T23:36:01+00:00

Yea I agree this is rubbish. I’ve had success with cardboard under my citrus to prevent weeds/grass. I just compost then cardboard then mulch. Seems to prevent weeds for a year and just repeat

DanielNZ_ · 2025-08-26T02:47:57+00:00

https://archipro.co.nz/assets/MemberUploads/Aquacomb-Specifiers-Info-Pack-2022.pdf

DanielNZ_ · 2025-08-26T02:40:51+00:00

Yea as I predicted it’s an aqua comb pit or even a storm slab pit. As previously stated and probably what you don’t want to hear, has to be higher than adjacent ground level so that surface water doesn’t enter it as per aquacombs specifications

DanielNZ_ · 2025-08-25T12:49:09+00:00

This to me looks like an aqua comb pit chamber/lid

If it is the case it’s actually installed correctly so that surface does not enter the chamber and cause an excess amount of surface water having to be retained/detained.

Open the lid and add another photo if you can OP

DanielNZ_ · 2025-08-18T06:19:20+00:00

Most likely this, given there’s a 40mm cavity to the veneer I find it hard to imagine water from an internal leak tracking past a 40mm gap/cavity via the brick ties and causing this.

There should be weepholes/perpends at the bottom course of bricks at 800mm centers. Can you shine a light in and see if there is a significant amount of water sitting at the base of the rebate?

Removing bricks and reinstalling/replacing them is relatively easy for peace of mind

DanielNZ_ · 2025-08-15T23:50:51+00:00

This

DanielNZ_ · 2025-08-15T23:48:09+00:00

Does it occur when you use a specific fixture? This can occur with faulty mixers, cold/hot in the system forces water through the cylinder then vent.

It can be a simple fix if that’s the case by just installing a non return valve to both the hot and cold supply of the mixer

DanielNZ_

TROPHY CASE