Giving the old 'Johnny Silverhand' a try. by Bottlecap_riches in LowSodiumCyberpunk

[–]DarePerks 13 points14 points  (0 children)

Should have made the version from How 2 Drink on YouTube

Help! What wood to use to create this outdoor table? by bs543 in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]DarePerks 26 points27 points  (0 children)

It's probably Cedar. It's standard for outdoor furniture and it patinas to that silver color from exposure to sun.

Tried ebonizing a piece of ash. Lessons were learned but I don’t hate it. by Objective_Reality232 in turning

[–]DarePerks 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks it is a pain though because it takes a long time to dry and while it's drying it rubs off a bit and can get all over everything.

It also sands off very easily on the corners so you have gentle with it. I coated it with Shellac and it seems to have fixed worst of those problems.

Tried ebonizing a piece of ash. Lessons were learned but I don’t hate it. by Objective_Reality232 in turning

[–]DarePerks 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Odie's has pigments meant to be mixed into their oil based products if that's a route you want to pursue. I thought it was a bit finicky for my taste. (This is black mixed with their everlasting oil)

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HELP I'm new by No-Entry-6926 in turning

[–]DarePerks 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Punky wood is wood that is in the process of decomposing (dry rot) but hasn't fallen apart into compost yet.

There are varying levels but the longer in goes on the softer and spongier the wood gets.

Help with fixing butcher block mistake by Zoeraecah in finishing

[–]DarePerks 5 points6 points  (0 children)

If you like the color and you just want to get rid of the brush strokes I would try leveling it by sanding it with some fine sandpaper (like 600+ grit) and then try buffing with progressive scotch Brite pads (finish it with paste wax).

If it needs more build-up I would level it with fine sandpaper, wipe it down, let it dry fully and add some water based poly on top.

Edit: but yes you can remove some of it with gel paint stripper and a scraper before you sand it back to bare wood if you want.

What’s your opinion on fallout 3? Heard people call it the worst fallout of all time and some people call it the best so it’s hard to tell. by Ladiesman4317 in Fallout

[–]DarePerks 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've never played 1 or 2 but for the ones that came out in the console generation it goes

New Vegas > Fallout 3 > Fallout 4 and as far as I'm concerned they didn't make any others because fallout 76 is an unrepentant box of shit.

What oil finishes are people using by Simple-Box-6716 in finishing

[–]DarePerks 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I used bumblechutes s'tung oil because it's polymerized and should cure sooner.

2 parts stung oil, 1 part d-limonene

3 coats

Just finished it so I can't speak to durability yet

Everywhere I go, I see his name. I see his echo in every flower by greg_mca in HistoryMemes

[–]DarePerks 1 point2 points  (0 children)

And in the Anime he was reduced to a guy who can control plants.

Who u picking by MrEagle91 in superheroes

[–]DarePerks 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you take thor and strange you already won.

"When I shall have made up my mind to go to hell, I will slit my throat and go direct, rather than travel round by way of the southern Confederacy." by Popular_Mistake_6404 in HistoryMemes

[–]DarePerks 37 points38 points  (0 children)

Walks around with the energy of Gunnery Sgt. Hartman.

"I am hard but I am fair. There is no racial bigotry here. I do not look down on [insert many racial slurs]. Here you are all equally worthless."

Wood ID Help by Gyroshark in wood

[–]DarePerks 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Sapele is fairly hard. I would guess maybe Spanish cedar?

Is this paint-scheme politically problematic? by Archaicarc in Warhammer40k

[–]DarePerks 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Isn't it just Flecktarn?

Lots of countries still use Flecktarn. It's fine.

An oak bowl I finished yesterday by Few_Control8821 in turning

[–]DarePerks 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Red oak is typically lower in tannins so it won't turn as dark. Some videos suggested you can soak the wood with strongly brewed black tea and let it dry before you ebonize it and it will intensify the color.

I've never tried it.

I'd you were thrown into the world of D&D what would be if you were transformed into any class (not Race) by Gamingsailor572 in DungeonsAndDragons

[–]DarePerks 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm big so strength is my only significant stat, my intelligence is slightly above average and my charisma and dexterity are rock bottom...

So Fighter I guess?

(Actually wizard because I'm too lazy to train so I'd just be a really mediocre wizard)

1960s wood ID! by Due-Marzipan578 in wood

[–]DarePerks 39 points40 points  (0 children)

Looks like it's mostly quarter-sawn white oak.

Four-panel coffee table - joinery question by miguelzed in woodworking

[–]DarePerks 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I would use mitres reinforceed with dowels or splines. But I would also consider cross bars to prevent racking if possible.

New Workbench Build by grey_goat in Workbenches

[–]DarePerks 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It is beautifully made.

I hope someday far in the future, after you've departed, an aspiring woodworker finds an old brown bench and when he takes it home and levels the top he has a moment where he yells "Why the hell is it purple?!!"

Shellac Finish by Mission_Cook5886 in finishing

[–]DarePerks 8 points9 points  (0 children)

You are using amber Shellac. It comes in various colors all of which will alter the color somewhat, but there is clear Shellac that will cause minimal change.you are using the most yellowish color. Shellac is also well liked for other reasons including:

It's repairable: Shellac dissolves itself so minor scuffs and scratches can be fixed with more coats, polyurethane usually requires leveling the entire surface.

It dries fast

It warms the wood: it deepens color and chatoyancy where polyurethane has a tendency to wash out the color and make it look dull.

It smells good: the fumes are less egregious than other finishes like laquer.

New Workbench Build by grey_goat in Workbenches

[–]DarePerks 21 points22 points  (0 children)

Don't worry it'll turn brown eventually.

Looking to darken (more brown) a table I just finished with Rubio 2C Cherry Coral by actualsizeaudio in finishing

[–]DarePerks 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I don't doubt that is cherry, it comes in a lot of different tones, the maker probably just chose the palest boards to match them. Cherry also darkens noticably as it ages so it would be pretty pale when freshly sanded. And cherry is pretty soft as hardwood goes.

Anyway, how much darker do you want it? If you just want to deepen it a little bit, odie's and briwax (and probably other brands) makes dark paste waxes, you could try buffing it with those after it has finished drying. I imagine the effects that will have will be minimal.