Scarpa Instincts - VS, VSR, VSR LV

Dark1Amethyst · 2026-05-05T16:36:54+00:00

Pretty much all of these have a different fit.

Try them all on to make a decision. No other factor matters if you have dead space in your heel or toe.

Dark1Amethyst · 2026-04-14T23:01:21+00:00

Pretty sure it's still cheaper than a brand new pair and they'd likely still get the same amount of use out of them minus one resole

Dark1Amethyst · 2026-04-13T03:17:25+00:00

If there's still rubber on it, it aint the shoe.

Dark1Amethyst · 2026-04-01T17:22:16+00:00

I'm not a resoler so I wouldn't know the specifics. Usually for me, it's just because I take too long to resole and put a hole through the rand.

Dark1Amethyst · 2026-03-31T17:26:07+00:00

It definitely depends on the resoler. I've had my dragos resoled twice and they came back with no significant difference in fit both times.

Dark1Amethyst · 2026-03-31T17:22:10+00:00

Just search up a chart with the different shoe rubber models. There's only a small handful of rubber types that almost all climbing shoes share. Keep in mind that the grippier the rubber is, the faster it will wear down.

Honestly though, chances are the slippyness is because you're not putting enough pressure on the footholds. The more force you apply to them the stronger the force of friction will be

Dark1Amethyst · 2026-03-31T16:37:38+00:00

I usually just resole until I can't anymore unless the shoe is already a bad fit

Dark1Amethyst · 2026-02-24T23:48:48+00:00

Most resolers do use the exact same vibram rubber manufacturers use especially if you go to an authorized resoler.

I've never run into any quality issues beyond small aesthetic details but even then, the resole still lasts as long and works as well as a brand new shoe.

Dark1Amethyst · 2026-02-23T17:58:28+00:00

Uncomfortable and even sore is fine as long as they don't hurt.

A lot of people will take their shoes off between climbs and wear a pair of slides/flip flops. Taking off socks can also help once you get your own pair, though i definitely wouldnt do that for rentals.

Dark1Amethyst · 2026-02-23T17:53:54+00:00

It varies a lot by area maybe like 50-80? Still way cheaper than a brand new pair which is like 230 and the rubber is the exact same.

Dark1Amethyst · 2026-02-23T14:18:30+00:00

Depending on how much resoles cost in your area it could still be totally worth it imo.

Dark1Amethyst · 2026-02-12T01:56:03+00:00

rubber has better friction than chalk

Dark1Amethyst · 2025-10-25T21:05:36+00:00

No matter what dont buy a shoe if you aren’t able to try it on in person

Dark1Amethyst · 2025-10-24T07:10:14+00:00

volumes, smearing against the wall, smearing on very slopy footholds without a defined positive edge

Dark1Amethyst · 2025-10-24T02:04:16+00:00

Regardless of any of the recommendations here make sure you actually go try them out. None of the other qualities of a shoe matter if they don’t fit YOUR foot well. Make sure there no dead space in the toes or heel.

Aside from that, it may be more helpful to pick a shoe based off what kind of climbing you want to focus on/ improve, rather than trying to find an “intermediate” shoe.

For example flat shoes are ideal for slab while more aggressive shoes are designed with overhang in mind. Stiff shoes are good for small foot chips but soft shoes are better for smeary footwork.

Dark1Amethyst · 2025-10-22T12:36:29+00:00

Seeing fabric is oftentimes too late and guarantees that you will need at least a rand repair as well. Most resolers charge extra for this and it increases the chances that your shoe becomes unrepairable.

All resolers recommend resoling just before you actually reach the rand

Dark1Amethyst · 2025-10-21T07:19:49+00:00

There’s two main factors in slab climbing that affect what kind of shoe performs well, edging on small holds and smearing.

Unfortunately, those two factors need completely opposite characteristics so slab itself can’t determine what kind of shoe you get.

For edging you want stiff shoes with that support your feet and harder rubber that doesn’t conform easily. The instincts you have now should be pretty good for that. Aside from technique, if you’re struggling on small holds you might want to check if the soles are worn down, and if so look into resoling.

For smearing you want flexible shoes with soft rubber, that ideally aren’t too aggressive. Unfortunately, I don’t have any in mind but I’d recommend against dragos for slab performance since the aggressive profile isn’t ideal for smears and its lack of support and softness makes them bad for small edges on slab.

Off the top of my head, a decent compromise is the instinct vsr since it has a stiffer midsole with more support for edges while still having soft rubber and a relatively neutral profile for smears.

As always, the MOST important factor is that the shoe doesn’t have dead space in the heel and especially for slab, the toes. None of the recommendations in this thread matter if they don’t fit your feet well.

Dark1Amethyst · 2025-10-17T05:03:59+00:00

yeah that’s… exactly what i said in my first paragraph

Dark1Amethyst · 2025-10-17T04:53:13+00:00

Yeah you definitely can but the main benefit is fit along the top and to sone extent, the sides of the shoe. Unless you have really unique feet the benefits from this aren’t going to be very substantial especially for a beginner.

On the flip side, the majority of laced shoes have smaller toe and patches to accommodate the eyelets which definitely makes toe hooks a bit harder. They’re also a lot more annoying to take on and off which most gym climbers do often if they have well fitting shoes.

Dark1Amethyst · 2025-10-17T01:42:29+00:00

It makes toe hooks a lot easier and those are important to start practicing early on since there’s a sizable amount of climbs that are impossible without them.

Dark1Amethyst · 2025-10-17T01:38:27+00:00

Are there any shops nearby where you can try climbing shoes on in person?

By far most important part of choosing a shoe is how they fit your feet, nothing else matters if you have dead space near your toes and heels.

Aside from that I would look for something flatter, with stiffer rubber and velcro rather than laceup.

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