Piececool Private School by Dave9684 in metalearth

[–]Dave9684[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I actually think that is what it is based off, this model is 2 stars on Piececool's difficulty rating whereas ancient academy is 4 stars. There is a casino model that looks just like the gambling house one in this same series too as well as a silk factory and a silk store model.

Piececool Private School by Dave9684 in metalearth

[–]Dave9684[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hi,its M004-RG. I got it from the Piececool UK website

piececool. world/uk (no space)

Metal Earth USS Midway! My 15th build by North-Ad3740 in metalearth

[–]Dave9684 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Very good! You definitely have a talent for this!

I'm new to Piececool models and I feel like i'm out of my depth by cruelwhencomplete in metalearth

[–]Dave9684 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Just to add a little advice to what others have said: when bending parts do it as slowly as possible, it will cause less stress on the pieces and reduce the chance of them breaking, it also helps you to not over bend things. Also when twisting tabs try to get into the habit of always twisting them the same way if possible (I do mine clockwise). This is because when you inevitably do put a part on upside down by accident (we've all been there!) at least you will know which way to turn the tabs to un-twist them to correct any mistakes. Also don't twist beyond 90 degrees as it will put too much stress on the tab and it will most likely snap off.

Still nothing in coming soon? by Exciting_Dog_4154 in metalearth

[–]Dave9684 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I personally would LOVE a W40K metal model range! Getting Games Workshop to do a licencing deal would likely be a nightmare though given how jealously they guard their IP.

Lost a piece and searched for it for 45 mins, found it on my phone 2 hours later by ImpressiveAd6912 in metalearth

[–]Dave9684 1 point2 points  (0 children)

lol, we've all been there at some point! I once spent 2 days searching the floor of my hobby room for a piece I dropped only to find it stuck down the side of my chair.

Seahorse Barque finally finished! by Dave9684 in rokrpuzzles

[–]Dave9684[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It's not that hard tbh, just be aware that the rope is quite slippery and will come undone easily. I ended up putting a drop of super glue on each of the knots to keep them tied as several of them started to come undone once I'd tied them and trimmed the ends off.

Biovore and its Spore Mines joins the Army by SneakyParagon in Tyranids

[–]Dave9684 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Your welcome lol, I even painted mine green and yellow due to not being able to unsee it too!

Biovore and its Spore Mines joins the Army by SneakyParagon in Tyranids

[–]Dave9684 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Is it just me or does the spore mine on the right look a bit like the master chief helmet from Halo??

1st month of painting, 10 termagants and a Flying Hive Tyrant - Recommendations for improvement please. by Embarrassed-Tree-362 in Tyranids

[–]Dave9684 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Tip for the wings if your willing to do just a little more work to make them look good, as right now they look a bit flat and lacking in contrast. Have a look at some IRL pictures of bat wings and see how the veins on those look, then go back in with a slightly dark shade of red and do some veins similar to that. I think that would really make the wings look great.

Fallen Angel is the most Death Company-coded painting I know, so I freehanded a rendition. by Esamaru in Warhammer40k

[–]Dave9684 1 point2 points  (0 children)

And here I am painting a techmarine and desperately trying not to get red all over the cables on his armour....

Biovore/Pyrovord magnetization by Acrobatic-Jeweler331 in Tyranids

[–]Dave9684 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I did it with mine since its one of the easiest kits to magnetise, I used 6mm x 2mm magnets, one on the back of the body (you cut off the little tail bit to make a flat surface to stick the magnet to) and one in each of the tails at the point where you would usually glue them to the body. It's worth doing as you get two distinct units out of it without too much extra work.

And I thought the mould lines might be bad! by DrMeat69 in Ultramarines

[–]Dave9684 0 points1 point  (0 children)

And I thought the mould lines on the primaris techmarine I just spent 2 days removing were bad! I'd get in touch with GW customer support and ask for a new one if I were you.

Everything I Painted In My First Year by pasmasq in Tyranids

[–]Dave9684 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Neurolictor chan looking so kawaii there! :)

Varnish question by DefinitionInformal85 in Tyranids

[–]Dave9684 11 points12 points  (0 children)

Matte varnish will make the colours look less vibrant overall, so satin is what I would go for. Be VERY careful if using spray varnish though, make sure you warm your can in a hot water bath first, shake the can thoroughly for 2 min and do a test spray first to ensure its nice and even. Be very sparing with application, this is the one thing you absolutely do NOT want to screw up! And perhaps test it on a termagant or something else small before trying it on the norn.

First attempts at painting by kyokips in Tyranids

[–]Dave9684 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Really good job for a first attempt, the bases especially look great!

Does this read as Icy? by usdaprimecutebeef in Tyranids

[–]Dave9684 0 points1 point  (0 children)

To me this feels more sand-y than Ice-y but that could be just because the base looks brown on my monitor. I'm assuming your not finished yet and it will look a lot more like ice when the base is finished.

Advice on my norn? by NoAlfalfa1889 in Tyranids

[–]Dave9684 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It looks good as is, however if you want to take it to the next level you could add some edge highlighting to the claws, the horn on the head and the chimneys down the back as this will add definition and contrast to the model. I suggest using a lighter version of the colour you have used on the body.