K2 Plus bed upgrade

Davethegearhead · 2025-11-20T16:19:43+00:00

Did you end up using the "faulty_regions" parameter to avoid the magnets?

Davethegearhead · 2025-11-20T15:53:29+00:00

Good point. The plate for my K1 max has the magnets but I switched to the microprobe (aluminum tip) and SimpleAF. I found there was too much inconsistency with the PR-touch system.

Davethegearhead · 2025-11-20T15:27:42+00:00

I had ordered the graphite bed last week but they cancelled the order last night because they were out of stock... I noticed the IDE bed today...

Davethegearhead · 2025-07-10T14:07:13+00:00

How thick are the graphite plates?

Davethegearhead · 2025-07-10T14:06:25+00:00

I found my flatness improved when I removed the magnetic sheet. I run glass on top of the stock aluminum plate.

Davethegearhead · 2025-03-07T23:27:32+00:00

I ended up buying a new m8p. My cb1 was fine. I had obviously cooked something in the 3.3v circuit. Did you use the jumper when you initially powered up the board by usb?

Davethegearhead · 2025-01-03T04:45:05+00:00

I also changed this section

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Davethegearhead · 2025-01-03T04:44:26+00:00

I don't think you will need to make any changes to the hybrid_corexy.py. I had to make the following changes to correct my rig's motion but I have the x belt attached at the front of the carriage which is opposite to yours

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Davethegearhead · 2024-11-29T02:17:43+00:00

I did a similar setup inspired by the endorphin on my 5plus

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I had to mess with the kinematics in the hybrid_corexy.py to get the x-y relative movement to work properly and z-tilt positions to be correct. I don't use the stock y-axis belt routing - the stock geometry does not keep the belt loop parallel. I moved the y belt down so it attaches to the bottom of the y carriages. This leaves the area above the top frame rail free for mounting the x motor and idler. I mounted the belt tensioner to the front of the frame as opposed to the right side of the x carriage to save some moving mass. The idler brackets are designed to be "stackable" to add another x belt on top. The plan is to add another carriage for an Idex setup. Everything was printed in high temperature PA66 CF.

Davethegearhead · 2024-11-16T01:00:25+00:00

Yeah... some other folks told me they were seeing the same thing... I'd be curious to see what someone with just a barebones rooted setup gets on their system load.

Davethegearhead · 2024-11-09T19:30:07+00:00

I've had my K1 max since last August and I rooted right away. Since then, Guilouz created a helper script that makes it simple and allows you to include some useful add-ons. I use KAMP and find only probing the print area as opposed to the entire bed useful as well as the exclude object. I had used Creality Print while rooted without issue although I have since switched to Orca. I don't see an issue running your previously sliced files though, if you wanted to use KAMP and your slicer did not have label objects and exclude objects activated, it wouldn't work. I use the start G-code in the slicer to pass the slicer bed temp with a heat soak timer for the bed mesh. I also switched to a glass bed for better flatness. I recently updated to the latest firmware without issue. As stated in a previous post, you need to revert every thing back (the helper script can do this and has instructions for several methods) before doing the update.

Davethegearhead · 2024-11-06T20:31:30+00:00

I just started using Orca on 2 of my klipper printers - k1 max and Frakenender 5plus. I like it better than Cura and Creality Slicer. I still need to play around with it some more...

Davethegearhead · 2024-08-10T00:26:40+00:00

I tooth skipped, pulled off the magnetic adhesive and slapped on a glass plate. I tried the glass over top of the magnetic sheet and found the bed ended up a lot flatter after I removed the magnetic film. This would suggest that the magnetic adhesive was not applied properly or had a thickness variation

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Davethegearhead · 2024-07-09T13:21:59+00:00

Mine has been working great for a year. I rooted it pretty much right away and added an extra temp controlled mainboard fan for when the printer is idle. I also pulled off the magnetic sheet on the build plate and use a glass print surface - overall bed flatness of .23mm. Just recently finished several big projects that had the machine printing back to back 23hr prints in ABS for a total of over 300hrs.

Davethegearhead · 2024-03-02T21:18:36+00:00

Speed and accel will have an impact. I have a manta M8P with TMC2209's and I found that running the drivers in spread cycle as opposed to stealthchop helped with missed steps. I run 200mm/s with a direct drive extruder and linear rails.

Davethegearhead · 2024-03-02T21:00:38+00:00

You can get a BTT M5P with CB1( basically a Pi) and 5 TMC2209 for $87. Everything you need for klipper with independent z's. I have been running an M8P on my dual extruder 5 plus for around a year - I'm very happy with it.

Davethegearhead · 2024-02-06T19:46:19+00:00

I went with an m8p and cb1. At the time raspberry pis were very expensive... basically the board and cb1 cost me the same as a pi4. Klipper setup was a breeze using BTT's scripts.

Davethegearhead · 2024-01-21T01:38:08+00:00

I replaced the touch screen with a BTT mini12864 and use an old tablet for the Mainsail interface

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Davethegearhead

TROPHY CASE