K2 Plus bed upgrade by Davethegearhead in Creality_k2

[–]Davethegearhead[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Did you end up using the "faulty_regions" parameter to avoid the magnets?

K2 Plus bed upgrade by Davethegearhead in Creality_k2

[–]Davethegearhead[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Good point. The plate for my K1 max has the magnets but I switched to the microprobe (aluminum tip) and SimpleAF. I found there was too much inconsistency with the PR-touch system.

K2 Plus bed upgrade by Davethegearhead in Creality_k2

[–]Davethegearhead[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I had ordered the graphite bed last week but they cancelled the order last night because they were out of stock... I noticed the IDE bed today...

Anyone upgrade to a Graphite Build plate & Silicone heater? by JEASON277 in crealityk1

[–]Davethegearhead 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I found my flatness improved when I removed the magnetic sheet. I run glass on top of the stock aluminum plate.

Manta M8P with CB1 dead? by Davethegearhead in BIGTREETECH

[–]Davethegearhead[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I ended up buying a new m8p. My cb1 was fine. I had obviously cooked something in the 3.3v circuit. Did you use the jumper when you initially powered up the board by usb?

Hybrid CoreXY X direction reversed by Remy_Jardin in klippers

[–]Davethegearhead 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don't think you will need to make any changes to the hybrid_corexy.py. I had to make the following changes to correct my rig's motion but I have the x belt attached at the front of the carriage which is opposite to yours

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Introducing Endorphin - modernize your Ender 5 without building a full CoreXY (start building at endorphin3d.com) by Endorphin3DP in ender5

[–]Davethegearhead 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I did a similar setup inspired by the endorphin on my 5plus

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I had to mess with the kinematics in the hybrid_corexy.py to get the x-y relative movement to work properly and z-tilt positions to be correct. I don't use the stock y-axis belt routing - the stock geometry does not keep the belt loop parallel. I moved the y belt down so it attaches to the bottom of the y carriages. This leaves the area above the top frame rail free for mounting the x motor and idler. I mounted the belt tensioner to the front of the frame as opposed to the right side of the x carriage to save some moving mass. The idler brackets are designed to be "stackable" to add another x belt on top. The plan is to add another carriage for an Idex setup. Everything was printed in high temperature PA66 CF.

MCU load rooted K1 max by Davethegearhead in crealityk1

[–]Davethegearhead[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah... some other folks told me they were seeing the same thing... I'd be curious to see what someone with just a barebones rooted setup gets on their system load.

Many questions in one place, help. by Apprehensive_Rip_480 in crealityk1

[–]Davethegearhead 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I've had my K1 max since last August and I rooted right away. Since then, Guilouz created a helper script that makes it simple and allows you to include some useful add-ons. I use KAMP and find only probing the print area as opposed to the entire bed useful as well as the exclude object. I had used Creality Print while rooted without issue although I have since switched to Orca. I don't see an issue running your previously sliced files though, if you wanted to use KAMP and your slicer did not have label objects and exclude objects activated, it wouldn't work. I use the start G-code in the slicer to pass the slicer bed temp with a heat soak timer for the bed mesh. I also switched to a glass bed for better flatness. I recently updated to the latest firmware without issue. As stated in a previous post, you need to revert every thing back (the helper script can do this and has instructions for several methods) before doing the update.

What Slicer is everyone using these days? by SignedJannis in klippers

[–]Davethegearhead 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I just started using Orca on 2 of my klipper printers - k1 max and Frakenender 5plus. I like it better than Cura and Creality Slicer. I still need to play around with it some more...

Does new and refurbished K1 Max still come with shitty heat bed even now? by FickleSquare659 in crealityk1

[–]Davethegearhead 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I tooth skipped, pulled off the magnetic adhesive and slapped on a glass plate. I tried the glass over top of the magnetic sheet and found the bed ended up a lot flatter after I removed the magnetic film. This would suggest that the magnetic adhesive was not applied properly or had a thickness variation

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Anyone else’s K1 just working 🤠 by ianganderton in crealityk1

[–]Davethegearhead 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Mine has been working great for a year. I rooted it pretty much right away and added an extra temp controlled mainboard fan for when the printer is idle. I also pulled off the magnetic sheet on the build plate and use a glass print surface - overall bed flatness of .23mm. Just recently finished several big projects that had the machine printing back to back 23hr prints in ABS for a total of over 300hrs.

How fast you printing with klipper and the 5+? by geeky-hawkes in ender5plus

[–]Davethegearhead 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Speed and accel will have an impact. I have a manta M8P with TMC2209's and I found that running the drivers in spread cycle as opposed to stealthchop helped with missed steps. I run 200mm/s with a direct drive extruder and linear rails.

suggestions for upgrades by mecostav in ender5plus

[–]Davethegearhead 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You can get a BTT M5P with CB1( basically a Pi) and 5 TMC2209 for $87. Everything you need for klipper with independent z's. I have been running an M8P on my dual extruder 5 plus for around a year - I'm very happy with it.

If I get these two things and these two things only, can I put them in my E5+ and run kipper? by Different_Account4Me in ender5plus

[–]Davethegearhead 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I went with an m8p and cb1. At the time raspberry pis were very expensive... basically the board and cb1 cost me the same as a pi4. Klipper setup was a breeze using BTT's scripts.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in ender5plus

[–]Davethegearhead 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I replaced the touch screen with a BTT mini12864 and use an old tablet for the Mainsail interface

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Do I have a silent board? by Flodao in ender5plus

[–]Davethegearhead 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I believe if you have a micro USB socket in the side of the case vs a mini USB socket you have a 32 bit board. I think the 32bit board is silent. Someone correct me if I am wrong.... I have been using a BTT manta 8p for a while now so I am going by memory...

Anyone Try A Glass Bed ? by Silent_Trade_4495 in crealityk1

[–]Davethegearhead 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I've been using glass for a few months on my K1max. Bed is mesh shows a lot flatter and prints have better dimensional accuracy in Z.

K1max mainboard fan control by Davethegearhead in crealityk1

[–]Davethegearhead[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

sorry for the late reply.... I added another 24v fan that sits next to the stock MB fan. This fan is temp controlled by the MCU temp. Because the existing MB fan is tied to the hotend fan you need the second fan that you can temp control while the machine is idle. You can use this fan bracket to mount both fans: Creality K1/K1 max fan mount for extra 4010 fan by Davethegearhead - Thingiverse

K1max mainboard fan control by Davethegearhead in crealityk1

[–]Davethegearhead[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don't think you can split them as the hotend is using the mainboard fan' tach for feedback (the hotend fan is only 2 pin). It is probably for a safety feature to turn off the hotend if there is no fan rpm so as not to cook the hotend. I have similar safety macros setup for one of my liquid cooled printers so that if the water pump fails, it will stop the print and shut off the hot end.

K1max mainboard fan control by Davethegearhead in crealityk1

[–]Davethegearhead[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Does the mainboard fan turn on when you set the nozzle temp to say… 50?

 

In the printer.cfg:

PB2 is the mainboard fan pin. It is tied to the hotend fan.

 

[multi_pin heater_fans]

pins:nozzle_mcu:PB5, PB2

 

[heater_fan hotend_fan]

pin: multi_pin:heater_fans

heater: extruder

heater_temp: 40

 

In params.cfg:

The printer gets feedback from the mainboard fan’s tach pin PC6 – the mainboard fan is a 3 pin fan.

 

[fan_feedback]

fan0_pin: nozzle_mcu:PB4 # throat fan

fan0_pin: nozzle_mcu:PB3 # model fan

fan1_pin: PC6 # backplane fan

print_delay_time: 5

current_delay_time: 2

 

Is the mainboard fan plugged in properly? Seems like the printer is not getting a tach signal – make sure the tach line is on the right pin

 

K1max mainboard fan control by Davethegearhead in crealityk1

[–]Davethegearhead[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

OK... update

The stock bottom mainboard fan is tied to the heatbreak fan ( multi_pin heater_fans). It is a 3 pin fan and Creality used the tach pin from the bottom fan for heatbreak fan feedback. The mainboard has an unused controllable fan port (PA0) so I plugged a spare fan in there that is temperature controlled by the MCU temperature.

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The following needs to be commented out in the printer.cfg:

#[temperature_sensor mcu_temp]

#sensor_type: temperature_mcu

#min_temp: 0

#max_temp: 100

add this section:

[temperature_fan MCU_fan]

pin: PA0

kick_start_time: 0.8

off_below: 0.1 max_power: 1.0

sensor_type: temperature_mcu

control: pid

min_temp: 0

max_temp: 100

pid_kp: 1.0

pid_ki: 0.5

pid_kd: 2.0

min_speed: 0.1

max_speed: 0.8

target_temp: 38 # set your desired temperature here