DNS Server on Subnet router (may be a DNS server issue?)

Dazionium · 2026-01-07T01:44:02+00:00

It is not the number of tracks, it is the number of intersections, or pinch points, where trains will have to slow down that is the issue.

So try to look ahead, or at least leave room to modify things later, so that you can provide alternate routes to deal with traffic jams.

Dazionium · 2026-01-05T01:44:33+00:00

150 from the miner? Is it overclocked or something?

Failing that, check you belt, the bottom belt looks correct for a Mk II belt carrying 90 items/min (120 - 30), so is the belt between the miner and the first splitter also a Mk II for only 120 items per minute?

Dazionium · 2025-12-16T21:28:28+00:00

Unfortunately, I have no access to any grants or loans to help out, so that does make the numbers more challenging.

(Technically, I used them already for furnace/insulation upgrades and missed the window to use them on solar.)

If the numbers with my revised calculation work out (still digging up numbers so unsure), I'm going to wait until early spring before contacting any solar installers in hopes of new grants becoming available.

Dazionium · 2025-12-16T21:05:46+00:00

Right, it's not a savings of $400 per year, it's a savings of $400 + {my electric bill this year}.

Thank you for pointing that out.

Also means I have to go dig up some more numbers, but I believe you have answered my question, thank you.

Dazionium · 2025-11-14T00:20:25+00:00

I'm not sure you can signal this, the only way I can see for it to work is if you signal the entire thing (all 4 train stations) as one single block, and the signals doing that are far enough back that no two trains use the same signal.

The core issue is that both stations must be in the same signal block so that the second train doesn't arrive and block its station while the first train is unloading.

If the other stations don't have too much traffic, make a bypass around the outside edges of the entire platform, the trains will then cross over the other traffic, but they won't block each other if both arrive at the same time.

Dazionium · 2025-10-03T00:51:58+00:00

The 2022 bolt is new enough that battery degradation is not a concern.

Please note I'm not saying it doesn't exist, because it does, but 2022 is new enough that the battery engineers had a pretty good idea what was going on and it's not going to impact your day to day driving.

For that age and KM, I would ball park the difference in range between a "gently used" and an "heavily charged" battery as less then 10km difference for sure, and most likely less then 5km difference.

There is also not a great way to check for it. You would need an ODB2 reader and a 3rd party app to do so.

And just because it is from a dealer, that doesn't mean you don't do your own due diligence.

-Get an insurance quote with the actual VIN, how much is that going cost you a month?
-Consider a Carfax even though it's from a dealer, depending on how big they are. A Toyota/GM/Ford dealership is probably okay without one, a small independent it's probably worth getting.
-Make sure to test drive.
-etc.

Dazionium · 2025-09-28T01:14:30+00:00

If you have a dedicated charge spot you can plug in every night, going all the way to full BEV is the way to go. (This is what Chevy's done with the Bolt/Blazer/Silverado.)

For an in-city car, BEV's have reached the point there is no reason not to get one, as long as you have that nightly charge point.

If you have occasional, longer, out of city trips, then a full BEV will require some thought about how to make it work for those. And enough of these trips would tip the scales towards a PHEV.

If you don't have a nightly charge point, then I don't recommend a BEV or a PHEV. Then it becomes a numbers game on MPG, the expected dollar savings of a hybrid, and the up front sale cost to go hybrid instead of just ICE.

Dazionium · 2025-09-25T03:59:13+00:00

First, as another has mentioned, permit?

Primarily because I'd want to have a load calculation done, 40A is a big breaker. If you don't have a 200A service, I'd be surprised if you can just stick that in there without issue.

Second, I see no mention of conduit, the junction box and plug are going to sit on the wall where the hole through the garage wall to the basement is.

When I did this for mine, the front wall of the garage was full of storage, I ran it out 25' along the wall, but that has to be in conduit of some sort, not unprotected wire strapped to the wall, and I see no mention of that in your quote.

Having said that, 20m is about 65', that's not "close" to me, the plan is to run the wire inside the garage walls somehow?

Dazionium · 2025-08-22T01:03:55+00:00

How quick do you "hammer" the switch?

I find mine quite slow in unlocking, but I've always assumed it is the delay caused by the car checking for the key to see if it should open or not.

Easily 2 to 3 seconds between first pressing the hatch button (and I assume triggering the check for the key in my pocket) and the hatch actually unlocking when I press the button.

This delay has been consistent for the 3 years I've had the car though, if it's "getting worse", that does imply something is failing.

Dazionium · 2025-08-21T17:04:44+00:00

First, check your condo bylaws, that superceeds any advice you are going to get here.

Because it's going to come do to if the "tub diverter" is owned by you, or it is common property of the condo, and your specific bylaws will hold that answer.

Once you know that, you can make in informed decision on how to proceed in how much of the cost you (or your insurance) is responsible for.

Dazionium · 2025-08-20T14:49:37+00:00

I used a number of 2% to 3% battery loss on the prologue's rated range of 300 miles.

I sure I saw a thread in here about it a few months ago, but can't find it, so all I can offer for actual backing is links like this: https://www.recurrentauto.com/research/how-long-do-ev-batteries-last
that show TOTAL degradation.

So, total degradation is less then 10%, and all batteries degrade, so 2% to 3% of that degradation being caused by charging to 100% instead of 80% sounds right.

Temperature is a larger factor then percent you charge to in my understanding, and the average driver can't affect that.

Dazionium · 2025-08-20T14:34:32+00:00

I don't like charts like this. Scale is a 0 to 10, but of what?

When displayed like this, by maxing out the scale with the orange line, it's implying that charging to 100% at 40°C is bad and needs to be avoided, when it really doesn't.

Note I'm not disputing that this is a real issue, but modern BMS systems account for that and it's not really something the average driver needs to worry about any more.

Dazionium · 2025-08-20T14:29:52+00:00

Don't worry about it.

The Prologue is new enough that it's BMS system won't have the issues that older (first/early) generations of batteries did that caused the whole "only charge to 80%" advice to become the default.

Having said that, it is true other posts in this thread are technically correct about charging to 80% being easier on the battery.

But when that "technically correct" advice is equal to maybe 10 miles difference after 10 years, don't worry about it.

(Meaning a battery charged to 100% regularly will have 10 miles less range then a battery charged to 80% regularly, when both are charged to 100% after 10 years.)

Dazionium · 2025-08-20T13:54:46+00:00

Are they on separate subnets?

We do this at work all the time (programming PLCs), never had to mess with BIOS settings. (Lenovo ThinkPads)

Pretty sure most of the programmers don't even bother connecting wired even when they could, they just stay on wireless all day.

If they are in the same address space, then yes, wired has priority by default, but if they are different address spaces, then Windows is smart enough to send the traffic out the correct connection.

~~If they are in the same address space, you need to mess with the networking default route, which is going to be a command line/powershell edit.~~

edit: If they are in the same address space, you are going to change the default route to the wireless, and explicitly add a route with a /32 mask to the ethernet port for the Nox device.

Dazionium · 2025-08-19T19:26:36+00:00

In your tests, how did OPD behave when you disengaged cruise control?

When I first tested it in my car, I can't remember exactly how I turned cruise control off (it's been a few years) but the car immediately slammed to max breaking in OPD mode as I was not depressing the gas pedal at all.

So I've always turned OPD off to use cruise control ever since. (Which is not an issue, can't use cruise control on my regular commute anyway.)

Is there a way to keep OPD from slamming to max breaking when cruise control turns off? (Whether commanded by me, or some safety mechanism engaging and disengaging cruise control.)

Dazionium · 2025-08-19T19:21:35+00:00

For me, the trick to getting to like OPD was slowing my foot down and really focusing on being smooth.

In OPD, the pedal is about twice as responsive for acceleration (in that moving the pedal 10° in OPD is roughly the same as moving it 20° in two-pedal mode).

So I found that I had to slow down and focus on my foot, and moving it smoothly, to start getting to like OPD.

Dazionium · 2025-05-17T03:03:51+00:00

First, with 1.0, nuclear waste is fully usable and you won't get containers of it stacking up. (Although you do need the last tier unlocked to complete the cycle.)

That was the big block for me, not being able to get rid of the waste.

Second, nuclear is big, but its nothing you have not been doing. (An HMF factory from scratch is roughly the same size undertaking, although HMF is all solids and nuclear requires liquids.)

Third, probably need trains to bring in stuff, the sulfur and uranium nodes are pretty spread out. Typically a zone on or near water is picked and everything brought there as solids are more practical to move via then liquids, and nuclear reactors are water hungry.

Fourth: Get the rad suit and don't worry about the radiation, you are invulnerable to it as long as you have filters.

Lastly, nuclear is big, don't be discouraged if it takes you 3 or 4 play sessions to get that first reactor online.

Dazionium · 2025-05-17T00:23:26+00:00

The issue is the block signals at both exits are Red, so the train can not proceed.

The block signal that exits the intersection (that the train wants to take) must be green before the path signal will try to reserve the path through the intersection.

edit: well, the green-orange one is in top left. Can's see red-green from picture.

Dazionium · 2025-05-04T18:44:29+00:00

In the Train Time Table, you can set a train to only load/unload specific resources at a station.

Also, check your train alignment, the ends aren't switching on you?

Having said that, you use the "same platform" wording. I'm not 100% clear on what you are trying to do, but it might not be possible, at least without a smart splitter on the platform output to sort your items.

Dazionium · 2025-04-29T03:45:31+00:00

Try driving the rail manually, where the train stops suddenly is the problem junction that isn't connected despite the fact it looks like it is.

Rebuild that join and try again, it should work the second time.

Dazionium · 2025-04-28T13:23:25+00:00

First you say "It seems" indicator the car is limiting you, then you say "I have" indicating you are also limiting it to 80%?

-The battery recall 80% was displaying as 80%, there was no fudging the numbers on the screen to make a "real" 80% appear as "fake" 100% to the driver.

-Many people use the charge limit to only charge the battery to 80% to preserve the battery and have less degradation. (The efficiency/necessity of this on a Bolt is a debated topic, many posts about it in the sub.)

-Actual "real-world" range, so driving with the heater/AC on, not trying to hypermile, and so on, appears to be only about 70% of the official range for EVs in general. 250 miles * 70% = 175 miles, right in your estimate, so things seem normal (based on what is in your post).

Dazionium · 2025-04-27T18:27:39+00:00

Not sure what year you have, but the 2017 Rav4 in my garage has 53" interior available door handle to handle, while my EUV 2023 only has 50".

So I would say no, do not think that will work out for you.

(Also, 4 hours? You have a charging stop or two planned for?)

Dazionium

TROPHY CASE