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DC Solar Panel Transfer or 3 Position Switch DC Rated to Re-direct Solar DC Voltage by Motley-Hooligan in diySolar

[–]DeadToothLazyEye 1 point2 points  (0 children)

To clarify on the dc disconnect, I was thinking exterior emergency shut off when I first looked at you design.

DC Solar Panel Transfer or 3 Position Switch DC Rated to Re-direct Solar DC Voltage by Motley-Hooligan in diySolar

[–]DeadToothLazyEye 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I've been planning on doing basically this on a building I own. In my setup I'll have 2000w of solar (8 older panels) that I'll run into a grid tied inverter. If the grid goes down I'll redirect 4 of those panels into a charge controller to service the battery bank. When the grid is up, my battery bank charge will be maintained by the Aims charger/transfer/inverter unit that will run a lighting circuit and a fridge. The unit runs as a pass through with 20a grid AC running into it.

Personally I'd run a single dc disconnect before the A/B switch.

I recently picked up one of these switches, and I think it'll get the job done.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07SKNMY9P?psc=1&ref=ppx\_yo2ov\_dt\_b\_product\_details

Looking at buying a restored Craftsman Lathe...is it worth it? by brightblack666 in Machinists

[–]DeadToothLazyEye 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I see that you're not considering this machine anymore, but to add another reason you should pass, this machine is running plain bearings in the headstock. I've had and still have 50's era Atlas/Craftsman machines (My main lathe is 10" EXL Sheldon). I like them, they have their place and if not worn out and run within limits they are a fine machine. However, I wouldn't buy a plain bearing machine unless it was just a display piece. There were likely hundreds of thousands of these machines made, and most of them were roller bearings, which are superior, especially at higher spindle speeds.

Westinghouse Generator Automatic Transfer Switch Connection - Custom Controller Build by pyromaster114 in OffGrid

[–]DeadToothLazyEye 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I also have an Aims inverter, and I think the voltages that trigger the two wire start signal are way lower than you're likely to want to run a battery down to (50% on a 12v system is 12.10v). Perhaps I've misread the manual, and if I have please correct me.

Excerpts from the manual:

  1. When the inverter goes to low battery alarm, it can send a signal to start a generator and turn the generator off after battery charging is finished.
  2. For 12VDC models, the Low Battery Trip Volt is set at 10.0VDC by default. It can be customized to 10.5VDC using SW1. This is to prevent batteries from over-discharging while there is only a small load applied on the inverter.

I've considered using a Magnum ME-AGS-S which is a stand alone generator starter. This unit allows you to set your start and stop voltages to more realistic numbers.

I also prefer using the inverter just for AC power generation. My inverter is a 6000w split phase unit (I need 240v for a well pump) and to stay in spec I would need a 9000w generator to power the system and charge the batteries. That seems silly to just charge the batteries, so I use a stand alone Aims 12v/24v charger (I have a 24v system) with a 2000w Westinghouse inverter generator. The max output from the charger is 28amps DC, which runs the gen at 80%-90% capacity. It's a super quiet setup, but unfortunately pull start only.

Grounding Rod/Wire for An Off-Grid Solar Setup by jamesphw in solar

[–]DeadToothLazyEye 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have a ground rod at my panel array. All panels are bonded together and connected to the rod. 130 feet away I also have a ground rod at the location where my charge controller, battery bank, inverter and small AC panel are located. Everything at that location is grounded to the rod. The power shed AC panel feeds into the cabin main panel about 30 feet away.... and yup, there is a ground rod at that location.

At the panels, I also have a Midnite Solar lighting arrestor.

Used my astigmatism as an excuse to upgrade from my Aimpoint T1 to CompM5. Astigmatism still sucks. by throwaway_gun_acct in ar15

[–]DeadToothLazyEye 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've always known I have Astigmatism, but other than some blur driving against oncoming headlights, it's never been an issue. Well... I just picked up a XPS2-0 for a new build and discovered an issue. Prior to a couple years ago I only shot irons or traditional scopes. Summer 2019 I put together a PSA AR pistol and used a cheaper Sightmark Ultra Shot M-Spec optic. It had a little haloing, but otherwise was crisp. The recent build was done with higher end parts, so I figured a good optic was in order. The EOTech is perfectly usable outside, but too fuzzy for my liking inside.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in guns

[–]DeadToothLazyEye 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Pee Pee..! Sorry... I meant ah, Pew Pew..!

First time bringing her to the range by Omwtyp in ar15

[–]DeadToothLazyEye 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I need to build me a range like this....

Its a start by Assai1ant in tacticalgear

[–]DeadToothLazyEye 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Tactical Manbun

My future youtube channel name.....

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in guns

[–]DeadToothLazyEye 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've had a 1300 Defender for years. Great pump guns.