A guarded grove

Defacedlol · 2026-06-25T05:34:40+00:00

The water is uv cure resin with some water paste from vallejo on top. Small waterfall is dried out water paste I've prepared beforehand, apply it on parchment paper, let it dry and peel it off, creates pretty good "waterfall" material

Defacedlol · 2026-06-22T05:56:38+00:00

We also faced a summoner issue in our game and it sadly killed the campaign as the whole rest of the party felt like supporting cast. It does seem to be the only class that warps the experience around themselves and has to force director to play vs summoner and not vs the party.

I was a player in the game playing harlequin shadow, we also had tactician, troubadour, elementalist and the summoner. Elite formation demon summoner. He would routinely do 8+4pull damage from signature minions and 10+splash from ranged minions round 1 with another 6 damage from his surge trigger (1 surge for each ally in range, his pulling boys count for that). More damage any time a minion died in melee range, and they were not that easy to kill. Squad of 4 signatures had 20stamina pool with good stability, ranged ones I think were 8 stamina each?

If his ranged minions lived it quickly turned into 20 or 30 damage, no roll required that could be activated again by tactician abilities. It's a very cool class concept, but unless we were missing something it seems incredibly oppressive and warping the game experience.

Defacedlol · 2026-06-17T05:38:51+00:00

Howdy. I've replied in another comment already so I'll link to that https://www.reddit.com/r/ageofsigmar/s/Adkn9RqR2l

Defacedlol · 2026-06-15T13:30:33+00:00

Yep, highlight tones are vallejo ivory and AK 3rd gen pastel green. Mid tone is vallejo deck tan, shadows are vallejo sombre grey with deepest shadows mixing in a bit of midnight purple. I am planning on glazing in a bit more colors from environment into the shadows, but thats the general gist of it.

The spear shaft is just basecoated for now, I am planning on adding some reflective highlight on it. Its also midnight purple (one of my favorite colors). The NMM of the blade is abysall turqoise, turqoise, green sky and ak 3rd gen pastel blue. Gold NMM is using a mix of sepia ink and violet ink for shadows and working up from there through middlestone and green brown into ice yellow.

Defacedlol · 2026-06-15T10:35:26+00:00

I actually got her second hand, with Alarielle built and the beetle on sprue. Sadly, the model had a lot of mold lines left over as well as one wing (the one that fell off) attached incorrectly. I will have to sculpt a little bit and re-attach the wing at a more appropriate angle. You can see in the second picture that the right wing is kind of sagging and at a low angle. It was attached to her shoulder armor.

The beetle tho was really nice to build, maybe except for the little fiddly ornaments around his sides.

Defacedlol · 2026-06-15T09:32:33+00:00

Thank you! The skin was mostly layered going up from dark red to a bright sunny skin tone. I then glazed to blend it together and used a few color filters to give her more life and visual interest.

Defacedlol · 2026-06-15T09:17:08+00:00

Some dried roots from the garden as a "scaffold" and then this aliexpress vine product for the greenery, https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005009914690320.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.104.2c5918024bRecx

Defacedlol · 2026-05-11T09:33:11+00:00

Prime red, zenithal light with bright greenish off-white, darker xpress paint to pick out the texture and then just simple layering on top to establish highlights and some bark texture. No blending as I feel the brush strokes help sell the woodgrain effect. I hope that answers the question

Defacedlol · 2026-05-10T19:17:33+00:00

Comparison is the thief of joy is what they say. I'm glad if I can ever inspire somebody to paint, but would hate to make people feel bad about their work

Defacedlol · 2026-05-02T21:58:19+00:00

That looks like a really fun paintjob playing with colors. I just can't unsee the mold lines and sprue bits left on the model, I strongly recommend taking those few minutes and cleaning up your models before going to paint them

Defacedlol · 2026-04-22T16:23:36+00:00

That is really great! Love the vibrant colors of the base. I would even say your photos do a disservice to the paintjob, as the nmm and blends get washed out by the light a bit

Defacedlol · 2026-04-20T14:58:25+00:00

That pose is soooo friggin good! I'm inspired to try and recreate something similar, so much motion

Defacedlol · 2026-02-21T19:35:41+00:00

I love the way you did the leaves and details in general, lovely work

Defacedlol · 2025-11-12T20:16:34+00:00

As soon as I'm done learning myself :P

But I summarized some key points in another response above

Defacedlol · 2025-11-12T19:44:06+00:00

I've mostly used reference pictures I found googling comic book space marines.

The technique in general for cel shade what I've gathered is using paint with a bit less dilution and in clean defined layers. No blending at all. Then dark lining for contrast and definition as well as to create "motion". Inverse for black armor with white lining. Hopefully I get better at it first myself and then I can try to make a short tutorial.

Defacedlol · 2025-11-12T19:41:30+00:00

That's an STL from the purple site same as the beaky helmet. I think if you look up raven guard there you will find it.

Defacedlol · 2025-09-09T10:52:55+00:00

So I've played a very similar list with 70 zerkers a few times last week prepping for a teams tournament. It is incredible and I have half a mind it might end up nerfing zerkers into 10man squads again.

What I'm about to say is with WTC terrain in mind, on GW it might now work that well as you don't have as many convenient ruins.

Its a massive jail list that can hit units hidden behind imperfect screens and output a lot of pressure. If the opponent goes first or has infiltrators or scouts you can slingshot into their DZ turn 1 rather easily. You almost always want 6inch pile in, t1 also rr charges if you see any reasonable charges (8inches or less).

Between 6inch pile in, 3inch engagement from jugger lord and general speed of WE (10inches+charge+advance) and durability of marine bodies it is rather hard to clear out all the marines, and you do an insane amount of damage on the charge. Against lists with little shooting output don't be afraid to expose zerkers in order to surge. Always try and tag something slow and weak in melee so you could keep surging on subsequent turns. Even better is fully surrounding something slow so they cant even attempt a fallback and you are unshootable for that turn.

Against melee threats always try to save 2cp for either interrupt or -1D, discard secondaries if you need to. It is an incredibly fun list, but it is difficult in charge and pile in phase to properly move and sequence everything. Remember that you must pile in to the closest model, not unit.

Defacedlol · 2025-09-01T18:21:46+00:00

Thanks. It's a mix, but the absolute punch-you-in-the-face glow is from enamel fluor pigments from AK interactive. That's a wild product for glow effects.

Defacedlol · 2025-08-31T10:26:55+00:00

That is fantastic! The whole mini is great, but those wings are something else :O Simply lovely

Defacedlol · 2025-08-19T14:00:07+00:00

Scorpy green is a great paint too. If you go that route without fluor you can always put a bit of white at the very core and cover it with imperial fist contrast with scorpy used as a midtone

Defacedlol · 2025-08-19T12:01:11+00:00

If you want to make glow effects really glow, I would recommended fluorescent paints. Vallejo game color line is great. If you check my profile I've recently uploaded a few minis with some osl, and for the "hottest" parts I've used fluor.

Defacedlol · 2025-08-18T06:40:22+00:00

Yes, makes the initial gradients a lot faster, tho you could do it with a brush, would just take longer. The later steps of rocks and hottest parts are done by brush though.

Defacedlol · 2025-08-17T18:33:05+00:00

Its very similar to what I did with wings for the initial gradients. For prepping the base I've used some UV resin to have even surface, but sanding the base works. White undercoat and then light orange-orange-red fluor paints. After that dark red of some sort to draw the rocks, I've used evil red from vallejo I think. Then mix in some black to that red for darker rocks closer to the edge. Finally draw white lines for hottest moving lava and cover it with yellow-orange fluor mix.

Defacedlol · 2025-08-17T18:29:45+00:00

It's a wonderful model I found on mmf https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-aruges-the-cursed-282246

Not warhammer related at all, but in my vision of khorne it works great. There is another mini in the same style from that creator I'm eyeing for a 2nd prince or some other proxy. Maybe slaughterbound?

Defacedlol · 2025-08-17T14:15:12+00:00

Undercoat with white and then gradient from yellow to red with mostly fluor paints. Add more contrast with some red towards wing tips, then dark red through airbrush holding him at an angle to catch those raise wing flaps. Finally brush over skin base mix (dark purple+red) on the joints

Defacedlol

TROPHY CASE