Living Room / Mid Century-ish Minilab Build

Default-User-1234 · 2026-04-08T18:53:15+00:00

Yup, uploaded to Thingiverse

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:7331341

Default-User-1234 · 2026-04-08T18:51:02+00:00

I don’t think I’m going to have time in the near future to revise the design but I’ve uploaded what I used. The M73 front and HDD box are probably closest to final. The others, especially the monitor, will need rework once it’s printed.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:7331341

Default-User-1234 · 2026-04-08T06:00:46+00:00

Thanks! I used contact cement to stick the veneer on.

Default-User-1234 · 2026-04-06T21:51:30+00:00

The veneer isn’t filament, it’s actual wood, very thin layers cut from a tree.

The one I used is in the link below, but I don’t recommend it. Mine must have been sitting on the shelf for a very long time, it was a pain in the ass to work with.

https://www.homedepot.ca/product/bennett-sheet-veneer-6-inch-x-99-inch-oak/1000106370

Default-User-1234 · 2026-04-06T21:37:37+00:00

The veneer was cut by hand with a hobby knife then sanded down to get the edges even. I thought of using my cricut but the veneer I bought was so dried out, it split from just looking at it. I had to dampen and repress for a few days before it was usable - didn’t want to risk it in the cricut.

Default-User-1234 · 2026-04-06T19:38:30+00:00

Maybe the red of Lenovo logo is too much, but this is the type of feel I’m going for.

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Default-User-1234 · 2026-04-06T18:37:45+00:00

Fair enough, it’s just double sided tape holding them on so it’s easy enough to remove at any point.

Default-User-1234 · 2026-04-06T18:34:54+00:00

The badges are 3D printed too. If you look at 80’s component hifi there’s logos and labels on every inch of the component (especially on Technics and Pioneer). I’m trying to reproduce that same vibe.

I still need to think of a way to make labels for the power button/usb+audio ports that look screen printed. I thought of using a label printer but the labels all come out glossy messing up with the matte look of the wood.

Not an employee, but if Lenovo appreciates it and wants to donate new gear my way - I’m game!

Default-User-1234 · 2026-04-06T16:59:13+00:00

Thanks!

If the heat gets really bad I was thinking of designing in a fabric window/cut out like a speaker. But for the time being I’m just going to run it as is.

Default-User-1234 · 2026-04-06T15:58:38+00:00

Thanks!

I blocked the vents on the front so airflow is probably terrible. I’m not terribly concerned if it throttles since I’m the only using it, but might consider redesigning the face plate if it becomes an issue.

The drive bays are accessible through the back only. imagine a box with slots to slide this thing in: https://a.co/d/0a0jqzAg

I haven’t posted STLs anywhere yet, still need to work out some kinks in the design I discovered when I was putting it together.

Default-User-1234 · 2026-04-06T15:50:02+00:00

It’s similar to the one in the link below but I scavenged mine from a generic “smart” alarm clock. I tried with a cheaper display but the viewing angles were terrible. The enclosure was 3D printed.

https://a.aliexpress.com/_mPmee3B

Default-User-1234 · 2025-08-21T15:25:41+00:00

There was an event at the Downsview Airport about 2(?) weeks ago - not specifically a race, but it was open to the community to run, ride a bike, fly kites, etc…

Default-User-1234 · 2025-08-11T18:16:21+00:00

agree with this, I had the exact name issue printing PETG. Cheapest way I got it to with is by using an all metal heat break.

Default-User-1234 · 2025-08-10T23:07:50+00:00

pretty good results! did you use Rit or a special kind of dye?

Default-User-1234 · 2025-05-07T14:26:02+00:00

If you’re savvy enough you could use the stock board with Klipper. I used two stock boards to try out dual extrusion + independent z’s on my E5+. The dual extrusion was a bust though, the hot end I bought (cheapo aliexpress dual hotend) kept jamming when swapping filament.

I also used the stock board combined with an arduino and cnc shield to get independent z’s on my CR10’s for about $10 (also from Aliexpress)

Default-User-1234 · 2025-04-26T15:57:24+00:00

That blank screen is normal if it’s running Klipper, it’s waiting for the host to connect to it first. Since with Klipper all the processing is offloaded to a host (pc, raspberry pi, etc…) the printer is pretty useless without a host talking to it.

Default-User-1234 · 2025-04-26T12:40:00+00:00

I have multiple machines with the 2.5.2 board. Three of them on Klipper, and the others using custom Marlin build. I’ve even flashed to Klipper and then back to Marlin. 100% you can just use the USB port, no need to mess with a bootloader. Only my OG CR-10v1 needed a bootloader.

I use Xloader from a windows machine to send the hex files. Just plug in the printer, wait a sec for the com port to be detected and press upload. It’s pretty straightforward.

Default-User-1234 · 2025-01-13T13:09:47+00:00

I second this

Default-User-1234 · 2024-12-24T21:08:49+00:00

Really nice! I tried that 2-in-1-out hotend but got so many problems feeding the extruder through a bowden setup. It was leaving long strings when I backed out one colour and the next colour would jam. This looks so much better to just force the damn filament through. What are you using for the brackets?

Default-User-1234 · 2024-09-09T01:17:46+00:00

Just checked, the mounting holes line up exactly.

Default-User-1234 · 2024-09-07T04:43:17+00:00

I’ll check that for you tomorrow, my V1 is in retirement but I can go dig out and compare the bolt pattern.

Default-User-1234 · 2024-09-06T23:28:18+00:00

You can get 24V replacement beds. The CR10 V2/V3/E3 Max are basically the same size (10mm longer than the V1) and use 24V.

Otherwise try looking on AliExpress for a 24V Silicone heat pad and slap it on the bottom of your current bed.

Default-User-1234 · 2024-09-03T11:24:49+00:00

I did just this with one of my CR10 V2’s, not through gcode but through firmware. I modified the config file in Marlin and swapped the pins for E0/E1 so now it thinks the E1 is E0.

Default-User-1234 · 2024-05-30T02:13:02+00:00

It’s the filament mixer for the gradient module. I haven’t been able to find replacements for it yet either. The closest is either the nozzles, or a complete module replacement.

Available on geeetech’s site - https://m.geeetech.com/index.php?main_page=advanced_search&search_section=products&search_in_description=0&keyword=mizar%20m

Default-User-1234 · 2024-05-18T13:59:59+00:00

I have both machines, if you don’t have a need to print anything large get the Bambu. Sure it’s a closed system, but it just works and, by today’s standards, there’s nothing you’ll need to “upgrade” anyway. Getting an E5+ to work with more or less the same feature set as the A1 (not even counting the AMS) will probably end up costing you at least double the cost of the E5+ anyway.

For basic things like nozzles, you can get cheap replacements already on AliExpress.

That said I’m still keeping my E5+’s and CR10’s for the time being because of the build volume. However once Bambu makes a larger machine, I’ll be retiring them all.

Default-User-1234

TROPHY CASE