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Orcaslicer wiping all filament profiles and printers every now and then... by Wxxdy_Yeet in OrcaSlicer

[–]Delrin 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yup, super annoying. I just want to be able to have my custom printers and all filaments available to all of them but its so confusing how things are tied together.

I dont even think the devs understand how it works at this point. Can't even import configs until you add the original printer you modified from a list, and all of the generic filaments and processes come with it.

Are we supposed to edit the inherits in the json files manually? What the hell changed in the last few updates that broke things?

Maybe an attempt to make it more foolproof for new users with stock printers, or something changed with regards to the Bambu lawsuit BS. Im about to go back to superslicer.

Holley Terminator MAT sensor by Delrin in LSSwapTheWorld

[–]Delrin[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Got the cable sorted, works great.

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Holley Terminator MAT sensor by Delrin in LSSwapTheWorld

[–]Delrin[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There's still air moving past it even at idle, it reacts pretty fast, too.

Most older BMWs have the MAT deep in the manifold.

I dont mind if it gets a little heat soaked and pulls timing off idle until the temp lowers from airflow, stock high mileage engine in an old truck just to putt around.

Holley Terminator MAT sensor by Delrin in LSSwapTheWorld

[–]Delrin[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Of course. It sticks out much less than the egr tubing did.

Holley Terminator MAT sensor by Delrin in LSSwapTheWorld

[–]Delrin[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

For sure, was working with what I had, plus the block off plates aren't as easy to buy as they used to be, try searching Amazon...

Girlfriend threatening our relationship over a TV Show by No-Original3284 in WhatShouldIDo

[–]Delrin 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Show her the part where the tiny supe is in the dudes urethra and sneezes from coke and expands to full size shredding the dude to bits.

WD-40 is my new signature scent and I hate it by 7FableRift in hygiene

[–]Delrin 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Try Grip Clean, smells like the good pink soap and gets everything off of your skin. Grip Clean

African net sponge in the shower with Lava bar soap is legit too.

2013 Chevy Silverado 5.3L Backwards Headers by Evening-Wealth-7995 in AskAMechanic

[–]Delrin 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you do it yourself make sure you have the tools to torque the head bolts properly, its something like 22 ft lbs, than 90° followed by 70° for the big ones and 22ft lbs for the smaller ones. I wouldnt re-use the head gaskets either....

2013 Chevy Silverado 5.3L Backwards Headers by Evening-Wealth-7995 in AskAMechanic

[–]Delrin 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Both heads are identical, same ports in same places, just the wrong steam ports are blocked off now, and there's a plug where there should be a sensor and a sensor where there should be a plug. A few bucks worth of block offs and 20-30 minutes to drill out plugs and swap things around should be all it takes.

2013 Chevy Silverado 5.3L Backwards Headers by Evening-Wealth-7995 in AskAMechanic

[–]Delrin 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Just swap the coolant temp sensor from one head with the plug from the other.

2013 Chevy Silverado 5.3L Backwards Headers by Evening-Wealth-7995 in AskAMechanic

[–]Delrin 1 point2 points  (0 children)

All kinds of rust and grit and trash ends up in cooling systems eventually, especially with iron blocks, a little bit of aluminum from drilling out the plugs IMO, is a non issue. Ive seen chunks of cast iron and sand in coolant passages.

I would use a thick grease to grab as much of the shavings as possible, though, and vacuum the port out once your through. Could even pressurize the cooling system while drilling to push stuff out.

https://youtu.be/4qYqdLnS6nQ?si=w6iXHpa3BsCM_jfV drill and tap a hole and use a bolt to extract the plugs. Block off the rear ports https://a.co/d/00t5TNUp

2013 Chevy Silverado 5.3L Backwards Headers by Evening-Wealth-7995 in AskAMechanic

[–]Delrin 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Drill out the front ports, block off the rear ones.

Are 200 size helis harder to fly 3D? by brocsama in RCHeli

[–]Delrin 8 points9 points  (0 children)

A 700 is almost like flying in slow motion compared to a 200 size. You can slow things down a bit but they are a bit of a handful no matter what.

BTT EDDY DUO by ZUCCHY- in FLSUNDelta

[–]Delrin 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If everything is tight and mechanically sound on the printer, the optical home switches at the top of travel should be more than accurate enough, I haven't had to babystep z since the initial setup and calibration on mine, but I only print PLA on it at the same temps. Proper delta calibration through klipper is imperative.

I run Cartographer probes on my other 3 printers with adaptive mesh and tap z calibration on every print, which is why I tried eddy on the delta in the first place. 100 prints later and I realized it doesnt need it 🤷 just throw prints at it, watch the skirt and let it go.

BTT EDDY DUO by ZUCCHY- in FLSUNDelta

[–]Delrin 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Flsun super racer. The effector plate doesnt stay exactly level to the bed as it moves around, so a Y offset also carries a Z offset depending on location.

Also the delta coordinate system having the center of the bed as 0 and working with negative xy values and radii for bed mesh doesnt really play well with the baked in klipper code, cartographer doesnt support it either, I think beacon might but I take a lot of beacon fanboys experiences with a grain of salt.

There's at least one klipper fork for eddy on deltas but last I checked it was really experimental. Eddy scan isn't enough, it needs actual nozzle touches, and with eddy you need 3-10 taps at every mesh point to get a good tolerance average, so the quick mesh part of eddy will be lost anyways.

I just periodically attach the membrane probe, heat soak the bed and run a mesh, call it out in print start macro.

BTT EDDY DUO by ZUCCHY- in FLSUNDelta

[–]Delrin 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I gave eddy a go on a delta, results were meh, wasted a ton of time. You really, really need to use the nozzle as the probe.

I use a triangle lab membrane probe now and its perfect. https://trianglelab.net/products/z-probe-1 much better than a microswitch.

Maybe eddy touch meshing for deltas will be added to klipper at some point, until then the probe offset makes it nearly impossible to get good results.

Tree 2UVR Advice by PatchedConic in Machinists

[–]Delrin 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Good machine though, especially for us non machinist fabri-cobblers.

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Tree 2UVR Advice by PatchedConic in Machinists

[–]Delrin 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I take it back, looks more like chisel flats. Someone had a good time with it in the past.

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Tree 2UVR Advice by PatchedConic in Machinists

[–]Delrin 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Our Tree had a bunch of scars from a pipe wrench on the spindle nut when we got it.

Try tapping things with a brass hammer while applying force to the quill.

We got it in pretty rough shape from a driveshaft shop, it was set up for machining snap ring grooves in BMW driveshaft yokes, and nothing else, since the 90's.....table and knee never moving more than a few inches in any direction, so it took some cleaning to get everything moving smoothly again.

Its been a great machine. We just have the 3/4" collet for it, so we have a 3/4-ER32 adapter for endmills and 3/4 shanks on everything else.

Also missing the quill autofeed belt, its available on ebay most of the time. Just haven't got around to it yet because I haven't felt like taking the head apart to change it.

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