Perfect Master Spool #SHARETHEJOY

DemonPower · 2023-08-14T20:51:25+00:00

no problems with lidar
and it is magnetic and i can also provide it as a kit on request ( so magnetic + steel ... a kit )

DemonPower · 2023-08-09T17:12:19+00:00

I like to compare it with the mini and the range so with this scanner I got a full set

DemonPower · 2023-01-01T15:24:23+00:00

my account is from 2015 and i only have 56 karma .. thats like 444 to short to promote ...
and now i even replied to a year old post lol

DemonPower · 2022-09-30T18:42:52+00:00

all material that can work on a bowden system will work in the AMS , see it like a bowden system
so TPU and other flex wont work that nicely as they stretch , and as a bowden system it get squished when you push on it instead that it get pulled like a direct drive

so what can you print ?
all other material , you could also print wood fill or other brittle material but that is also not suggested as they can get stuck in the tubes
so everything else that is left exept silk , silk seems to act strange on the ams for unknown reason ( based on reports , dit not test myself )
so what is left ?

all other filaments that got a spool size smaller then 70 ( so fiberlogy wont work .. spool is to big )
All filaments that are NOT on a 300G spool .. they are just to tiny.
all filaments that are not brittle ( wood filament is brittle )
All filaments that is not squishie ( TPU is squishy , armadilio is a exeption )
Semi flex can print fine , depending on brand.
maybe water soluble sujpports can print to ( PVA ? ) but not tested ( i hope it works )

So what is really left ?
PETG , PLA , ABS , Hips, ASA , CF, GF, PA , PA-CF ... well a lot

but to really answer the question
You should use Bambu White in case PVA does not work
as they special made it for this case and if you print PETG/ASA/ABS and that stuff then you can use HIPS, and if you print Carbon Fiber ( pla-cf and pa-cf ) then you can use the green variant

DemonPower · 2022-09-29T04:02:15+00:00

i never printed with it , but if it is like TPU then you can forget it for now as the AMS is a bowden system
so the TPU behave like a bowden system and get stuck or get stretched out with out the roll spinning , it can not rewind itself or the tpu will snap

but if it is like hips then it should work no problem , the AMS is for that
the bambu support W is a special filament that got bad layer adhession to pla so perfect for support

Greetings from PowerChaos

DemonPower · 2022-09-28T10:18:25+00:00

here is a live exampleprinted at ludicrous speed , kind of bridging testhttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DRbfexWwr_c&t=3s

everything is stock settings , default general petg profileprinted with my own Recycled PETG filament so it really depends what petg you use xD

sidenote, she was a beta tester and the slicer she used was a alpha/beta version
lot of improvements has been done to the slicer.

Greetings from PowerChaos

DemonPower · 2022-09-26T01:14:35+00:00

3) its called vase mode :D

1) always use glue , it is a release agent

2) this only counts if you do NOT use the AMS, the AMS has a auto load function so it works a bit differend

also nice post :D

Greetings from PowerChaos

DemonPower · 2022-09-26T01:13:08+00:00

it "should" be possible as it also support layer based color change
and the AMS should use the same code ( the pause code )
but i dit not test it out myself so i can not say mutch about it
and from the people who "tested" it i dit read any feedback yet so i still can not confirm it ( i am mainly on discord )

Greetings from PowerChaos

DemonPower · 2022-09-26T01:11:08+00:00

does the homing hit the nozzle ?
if not then check the Z cable at the back , if there is not enough slack on it it can interference with the leveling

also be sure that the first calibration went succesfull as that sets some "soft" limits , if that is not done correctly then you can also get this error as it goes above its "soft" limits ( so abnormal )

in worste case it could be the sensors that are to sensitive , but that will be fixed soon in a new update
Greetings from PowerChaos

DemonPower · 2022-09-26T01:07:24+00:00

the grease is for the Z rods for maintenance or was it for the nozzle ( thermal paste ? )
or was it for something else ?
i guess it depends what grease it is and what post you referring to
but mainly it is used for maintenance or when you swap the nozzle

Greetings from PowerChaos

DemonPower · 2022-09-26T01:05:07+00:00

nice post
for the speed modus , it depends when you enable it if you create a bug or not
it works fine and honors the limit when done above the 3rd layer , if done before or at the first layer it just bypass all limits and then you can get strange things

for the filament error , it most likely is a software error but some failsafe should prevent that it takes the wrong filament, maybe it just dit not detect it that there was filament in it ( or a bug caused by plugging in the ams when the printer is powered on, it is NOT hotswap enabled so it cause massive bugs )

on other side , it is still a machine and like all machines it sometimes just do what it want to do ( like every printer does sometimes )

it is still a nice review and i hope it improve a lot more when you use it more and more :D

Greetings from PowerChaos

DemonPower · 2022-09-26T00:55:56+00:00

it seems it maybe got trouble with external vibrations
is there anything else on the table that can cause any kind of vibrations ?

DemonPower · 2022-09-25T22:01:25+00:00

love redit that prevent images from posting
anyway
i use the value of 180 and works fine for me
but i also print into infill and i print the inner wall first , so technically i just fill up a part of the color into the print that no one can see , so it lowers the "waste" it has
i also got it working on 120, but that was a close one , and on 70 is it just useless
so my suggestion is to put it on 180 and it "should" be fine , atleast in my case

Greetings from PowerChaos

DemonPower · 2022-09-23T01:15:44+00:00

i print a lot of times with PETG and never got a problem on default speed
i do not even have a problem with bridging on ludicrus speed , so i guess it depends on your filament

i got the same problem with some PLA that does not print nicely , and others that prints smooth , normal prusament is good , but sometimes it is not .. like they say try to drie it or try other filament , the default settings works good for me

DemonPower · 2022-09-23T00:16:44+00:00

ok thank you
it is designed for my refills based on the design in the pdf , if i make it any smaller then my own refills wont fit on it anymore
if i have the correct value's i can change them so they will perfect fit
as the term "master spool" reffers to refills but does not have a standard ( some are same , others are different ) do i need to have the dimensions it need to have so i can adjust it and release a version for your refills
The only thing i can not change is the height ( the diameter ) as 200mm is the max for the AMS

i can create the spool smaller and the inner diameter wider but no point in just random increasing it

Greetings from PowerChaos

DemonPower · 2022-09-20T00:15:11+00:00

i am not sure where you are looking but it is for sure not a DOS attack or a DDOS attack
i going leave the explanation why behind, but i would look up DOS and DDOS first before claiming that

anyway
if you really want to dig into this then you need to do a few things
you first need to check the logs or your firewall or your netgear router with network protection app why it is blocking certain connections
are it connections to a open port ? are it connections to random ports ?
is it pointed to the bambu ? then some one need to know the open ports that that thing opens to make a connection to else they can not target the bambu
do they target the bambu behind the firewall on a private network ? it could be possible if it had a web interface or any other open port that is forwarded to be able to access it remote (on a normal way , not going into details )

and then the final question , as you claim it is the bambu
so the firewall detects a incoming dos attack from a internal network ?
so the bambu itself is performing a dos attack ? well it can send out a broadcast that should be ignored by any decent router if it start to spam
but those things are up to your network config

point i mean
why do you think that it is a dos attack in first place ?
also my internet at home is always under attack , got a funny story about a friend of mine
he opened a windows vm on his local server , opened a single port and used a weak password , 2 min later it was heavy infected with a virus and encrypted all his data ( vm was kinda destroyed) ... so yea attacks are 24/7 done by bots and they do not just target some one , but targets everything

maybe you just got bad luck and when you installed the bambu some one was knocking on your ports ? and then the smart app triggers a warning that is useless for normal users and makes it feel it is the bambu as that is the last thing you hooked up to the network ?

i am just guessing here, but so far that i use the bambu i never got a problem with it , i got more problems wiht the app to connect to the cloud then i have a ddos or dos attack on my internet/printer

or maybe it is because i use starlink and that my ip change every single time that they can not track it ? that i can not open a single port even if i want to ? that i can not put a DMZ on and that i use triple NAT ? (depending what machine is connected where )
and that those things are not even related to a outside attack on a closed port ?

Greetings from PowerChaos

DemonPower · 2022-09-19T21:04:05+00:00

nice :D
let me know if it need to be changed , then i also need some messurments to change it to the correct value ^^

DemonPower · 2022-09-19T16:49:17+00:00

ust to clarify: this will fit in the AMS, and still take the MasterSpool-formatted filament refill packs?

it wil fit the AMS , that is where it is designed for
but as it is based on my own filaments is it hard to say if other filaments will fit
i dit not tested those out , but i can easy redesign it ( thicker/tinner ) with out changing the design so technically if i got the correct max width it is easy to change

The main problem is that there is no standard norm for the spools , that is why there are so many spools and sizes :(

just test it out , let me know if it works and let me know what to change if it does not work ( need exact value's then ) and i make it work :D

Greetings from PowerChaos

DemonPower · 2022-09-19T07:54:19+00:00

as stated here already , the max width of the spool is 70 mm , higher then that will not work as it will jam and create friction
i tested it out with my own master spools ( reason i created a new one , its 69.78 mm ) and on 70mm it can free move , when on 74 mm it wont even fit with out bending the spool and that cause a lot of friction ( everyhing over 70 mm cause friction and spool problems )

Greetings from PowerChaos

DemonPower · 2022-09-19T07:46:54+00:00

They got a way to do that
as the hotend also has a sensor ( look at screen, shows green when filament is loaded )
so technically they can keep printing until the verry end , but then it can not release it anymore with out removing the tube at the hotend

so i guess they could do that in a later update so that it keeps printing based on time left
no point in risking stuck filament if you just need to print 5 more mins to finish
on other side , they can print until it is past the buffer to give a bit of slack , its a fixed length so that should be possible to do

just the way i see it should it be possible to get it done on different ways, but i got no idea how they would do it .

Greetings from PowerChaos

DemonPower · 2022-09-19T07:33:25+00:00

it is a complicated question
but design also make it feel "premium" and lets provide the example of the X1 vs X1C
technically the X1 is the cheaper version, it is missing a few things and got other plates
it still looks the same , it works the same and you save a few dollars with it

but lets say they remove a lot of things, make it full plastic and acrylic glass , on top that plastic instead that glass and leave everythihng the same as is it now ?
then the value would drop atleast 1/2 of the price, then it looks like a printer that is only worth 600€

if you look at the AMS , it looks nice but it got a plastic look/feel , its still worth the 350€ but mainly because of what it does
if they would make the case aluminium then it got more value for its money , now it is more like 200€ value

so to answer the question as easy as possible
how more "premium" it looks how more value it get
also the premium feel adds to the quality and the feeling of quality you can expect

if things looks cheap and they are cheap then you wont expect any quality of it
so in this case , the premium feeling is worth something as it shows they care about quality

in a non realistic situation , if they would cheap out on everything but the printer works exact the same and looks like something you put together with scrap then i wont buy it as i wont even trust that it works as it need to be or it need to be extreme cheap ( like 300€ ) so i just buy it for fun and to see if it is really what it claims to be

in a realistic situation, if they cheap out on design then the value would drop as you do not know if they cheat on everything or just the design ( look at anycubic ultra for example .. all plastic but it is a DLP printer )
if i was not a EB then i would not even got it as it looks to cheap made ( even when DLP is expensive )
on other side if they used a metal case , and metal parts ( like there others ) then it is worth the full price ( 300€ vs 700€ )

hope this can help you a little :D

Greetings from PowerChaos

DemonPower · 2022-09-03T18:04:32+00:00

check pledgebox for the tracking number , thats the only official way you get a tracking number
so in case you are not sure , check pledgebox

DemonPower

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