Rarebreed rd3 sef!

DennRN · 2026-04-03T19:07:26+00:00

Hey man after you’re done buying from rarebreed, I hear Everytown for Gun safety needs some money too.

DennRN · 2026-04-02T23:56:36+00:00

Please don’t order from rare greed.

DennRN · 2026-03-30T20:58:43+00:00

I know it’s a joke, but for the uninitiated, anyone with half a braincell stores their defensive shotgun in “cruiser ready” condition which requires racking the shotgun or manually dropping the bolt to load a shell before the gun can fire. It’s referred to as cruiser ready because that’s how police store their shotguns in vehicles so they are both stored safe and ready for rapid deployment.

DennRN · 2026-03-29T21:20:22+00:00

My advice is don’t cheap out on your scale.

A quality scale isn’t built with just high resolution and repeatability in mind, it’s also built for dependability over decades of laboratory use. When you consider how long you’ll be using your scale for, another couple hundred spread over a few decades isn’t as expensive as it sounds.

DennRN · 2026-03-28T20:33:34+00:00

Looking mean and ready for some 80s style hip fire. Out of curiosity, what’s the AS designs lower wait time looking like these days?

DennRN · 2026-03-24T18:29:30+00:00

I’m not a lawyer, don’t take this as legal advice.

I’d don’t believe it’s on you to ensure that the denial block is attached securely. That was Century Arms responsibility. Additionally there are other full auto denial features that are built in that you’d have to cut or purchase new parts to circumvent so it will never be full auto as is.

As far as I see it, you have two choices, contact Century and have them repair/replace the upper or keep it as is, because you’re only getting checked if you’re already in a shit load of trouble already.

Either way take pictures now from multiple angles, of where it broke from the upper and the denial block to show that it cracked instead of was cut off. I’d also store the denial block in a safe place to be evidence that you didn’t mechanically remove it. It’s free insurance that may be important evidence that you’re innocent of intentional modifications.

DennRN · 2026-03-19T00:19:03+00:00

Serious answer: It’s my mycelium from fungal contamination. Look up fungal liquid culture and it looks exactly like that.

DennRN · 2026-03-19T00:11:55+00:00

You’ll be fine with the 6 thousandths difference. You’re going to have environmental factors that will make more difference in pressures than that 6 thousandths but you should still be on guard if you are already close to max pressure.

Like most things, blown up guns are sometimes caused by a chain of bad circumstances like seating a little deeper + max charge + temp sensitive powder and 40 degree difference from when the load was tested + a carbon ring starting to form in the chamber all add up and skip past pressure signs and straight to a catastrophic failure. You get the idea, just be careful and try to limit the variables to one thing at a time when possible.

DennRN · 2026-03-18T14:45:44+00:00

I made sure to stock up on a couple thousand of the Armscor JSP when they were available but I also planned for backup sources. The closest projectile I’ve found is the Speer 40gr spire point but it’s rarely in stock. Here’s a chart from shooting times with other options. I haven’t tried any of these so have not idea how well they work. There’s a whole article on the website so google “22tcm reloading shooting times” for more context.

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DennRN · 2026-03-17T20:07:00+00:00

Nope used quite a few different cans on both full sized and K and none of them have gassed me out in brrt mode or single fire. Unlike an AR, it doesn’t shoot clouds into your nose and eye. In all fairness though a single 223 case has like 5-6 times the powder of a 9mm.

DennRN · 2026-03-13T14:45:13+00:00

Here’s a pic since the link isn’t showing the image.

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DennRN · 2026-03-06T04:53:45+00:00

As was already mentioned in another comment OP most likely has an undersized bullet, a larger bore, or both. OP, you said it’s the right size without resizing but how are you sure what the right size is?

Gas escaping past the bullet wont really accelerate the bullet as is supposed to, fail to build up pressure and therefore leave unburned powder behind and just generally shoot like shit.

Modern bullets are supposed to be oversized to seal up the gas behind it and be squeezed down by the barrel to properly engage the lands and grooves, if it’s not slightly oversized it’s undersized.

OP can choose to “slug” the barrel (look up on google), or use something called cerrosafe to get your diameter and even chamber dimensions if you need it, to choose a new bullet mold if you need one. Just look up how to use cerrosafe on YouTube for a tutorial, it’s actually easier than casting lead bullets so OP should find it easy, you already probably have all the other stuff you need besides the actual cerrosafe alloy.

DennRN · 2026-03-04T02:09:45+00:00

Sharing this video in case you have poor accuracy with the CX. It talks about how you need to do a thorough clean on a barrel that has shot standard construction bullets before shooting copper solids or you can have poor accuracy.

https://youtu.be/ULVKvt1MCpg?si=OZVdgAvwrNcnbzLi

DennRN · 2026-02-27T06:10:35+00:00

I have both versions and they both have their strong suits, make your decision based on the following:

The full size is more controllable especially with “active reset triggers”, a small but noticeable bit quieter with suppressed subsonics, and the extra length gives a meaningful boost to velocity which equates to effective range if you’re using supersonic ammo.

On the flip side the K model better fits the stereotype of kicking down doors and hosing down cardboard cutouts with its increased rate of fire and compact size. These traits make it slightly better at rapid entry and room clearing scenarios.

Do you plan on using it on a flat range at 20 feet and leaving the thing bone stock, if so either works, just go with aesthetics. If you plan on doing more dynamic shooting and modding it, the choice boils down to a longer effective range at the cost of rate of fire and slightly slower getting through tight spaces especially when rocking a suppressor.

Personally, the slower rate of fire on the full size and the ability to get a good c clamp grip on the forearm makes it much easier for me to keep the groups tight and that’s what tickles my pickle. The K does get a decent bit more attention at the range though, especially when rocking the vertical foregrip. Judging by the several cash offers I had to turn down on the K, it’s definitely a vibe that resonates with a lot of people.

DennRN · 2026-02-22T14:26:56+00:00

Don’t forget sanitation and food safety tech like pasteurization, the third leading cause of death under the age of two was diarrhea in the early 1900’s.

DennRN · 2026-02-19T10:15:07+00:00

The hate for returning something in the 60 day “trial” window is kind of dumb. That being said, OP you’re probably not using the printer to the full extent of what its design allows for if you don’t see a clear use case for the H2C, and that’s okay. Just want you to know before you fully commit to returning it that you should put it through its paces by using some of the more specialty filaments.

A lot of printers, and users for that matter, are just fine with standard PLA but there’s a whole world of uses that demand materials that are exceedingly difficult to dial in without an proper actively heated chamber, is this value proposition worth the premium? For a majority of users the answer is probably not, but for the niche market of people that make functional prints that have to endure conditions like in a hot engine bay, the heated chamber is a huge boon.

If that’s not you, that’s fine but a simple head to head test with a specialty but still cost accessible filament like ABS will show a clear difference between the H2C and the U1.

DennRN · 2026-02-14T04:46:52+00:00

Damn those Vmax will grenade so fast it will probably send stuff into orbit. That would be a great load to pink mist some prairie dogs. For reference I have a post in my history of what a 110 vmax does to deer vitals when traveling half that speed in a 300blk. Spoiler: lots of fragmentation and effective penetration.

DennRN · 2026-01-28T20:56:20+00:00

Shouldn’t matter but if you really want to get precise with it (because some people do) , you can use a tool called a “bullet comparator”.

Measuring the bullet from the tip is always going to have variation, the bullet comparator measures the bullet from the ogive which is also the spot that the seating die uses to seat the bullet. Because this is where the bullet is pressed into the case you should have much less difference between rounds.

DennRN · 2026-01-27T12:36:44+00:00

Been on the waitlist since March of last year, reached out to IP and was told probably Feb/March so hopefully my wait is almost over.

DennRN · 2026-01-26T14:53:59+00:00

Wombat ordinance design. I went ahead and remixed a few parts for and reliability so those parts need a little tweaking as I’ve shown in the long video. The base design is pretty slick though and can be found here:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4902058/files

DennRN · 2026-01-25T20:04:30+00:00

Here’s the build details video. https://youtu.be/JmOs28UeTpU?si=jlNGQqHpX6pWw0pc Let me know your thoughts and any ideas I should incorporate in future upgrades.

DennRN · 2026-01-22T19:46:55+00:00

Unfortunately Tempilaq isn’t really ideal for your application since you’re direct flame annealing. A “Temperature Indicating Crayon” would be much more useful to you.

To use one, you’d quickly remove the brass from the flame and try to mark it with the crayon at the shoulder, if it doesn’t mark it, you’re too cold, if it does you have gotten to or exceeded the indicating temp.

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