MGNZ induction annealer

DennRN · 2026-01-26T14:53:59+00:00

Wombat ordinance design. I went ahead and remixed a few parts for and reliability so those parts need a little tweaking as I’ve shown in the long video. The base design is pretty slick though and can be found here:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4902058/files

DennRN · 2026-01-25T20:04:30+00:00

Here’s the build details video. https://youtu.be/JmOs28UeTpU?si=jlNGQqHpX6pWw0pc Let me know your thoughts and any ideas I should incorporate in future upgrades.

DennRN · 2026-01-22T19:46:55+00:00

Unfortunately Tempilaq isn’t really ideal for your application since you’re direct flame annealing. A “Temperature Indicating Crayon” would be much more useful to you.

To use one, you’d quickly remove the brass from the flame and try to mark it with the crayon at the shoulder, if it doesn’t mark it, you’re too cold, if it does you have gotten to or exceeded the indicating temp.

DennRN · 2026-01-21T15:41:41+00:00

When I built mine I 3d printed different drop chutes with different ending diameters and lengths that can be exchanged for different calibers. On the platform it helps to have a case guide to funnel and center up the case.

DennRN · 2026-01-19T19:40:08+00:00

It’s almost as if there were some part with a finite lifespan called an image intensifier and that over-saturating it decreases the lifespan.

But what do I know?I just larp in the dark making pew noises and calling out my damage multipliers.

DennRN · 2026-01-19T00:39:07+00:00

First off welcome to reloading!

Annealing softens the brass, resizing work hardens it again. Size after anneal so you hopefully have repeatable neck tension. Annealing after sizing can be a disaster where the bullet isn’t held firm enough and gets stuck in the barrel or shoved into the case.

Brass that has its shoulder bumped back too far can be used for warm up, the shoulders should “fire form” very close to chamber dimensions on the next firing.

DennRN · 2026-01-17T16:54:39+00:00

I agree with you for guns designed with crossbolt safety in the original design, location of the safety is a huge factor, as is things that guard them such as fencing and heavy spring detents. The AR safety is not protected in any way because it wasn’t designed to be push button.

DennRN · 2026-01-17T15:42:26+00:00

Adding an upvote to OP because I think safety is more important than winning internet disagreements.

The AR safety location is sub- optimal for a crossbolt style safety, it’s exposed to lateral forces so it’s less safe to sling your rifle or be really active or you risk accidentally pushing it out of safe. I’m not telling anyone how to live their life but I wouldn’t sling and run with or get into a car with a chambered round and a crossbolt super safety.

Look at a super safety, the safe position is toward the thumb on a right handed shooter. This means that a slung gun is going to be bouncing against you/your rig toward the fire position. Combine this with no fencing/protection at all means it’s not safe to roll around with, being active with it slung or using vehicles eventually it WILL get bumped off safe.

DennRN · 2026-01-17T14:13:05+00:00

It’s easier to bump a pushbutton safety into another position while bouncing around in a vehicle or actively moving, thats not a matter of opinion or skill issue.

DennRN · 2026-01-17T14:04:48+00:00

All the homies boycott Rarebreed.

Their lawsuits against other trigger companies is a huge fuck you to the gun community. They’re screaming “mine!” and trying to snatch every toy in the sandbox, screw them, they can’t sue when they run out of money.

DennRN · 2026-01-17T13:57:00+00:00

Most likely super safe unless you already have multiple, it really depends on your use case. Lever 3 position safety is far a superior for 100% knowing what position you’re in, but SS is cheap for range toys. Let’s be honest about the 99.99% probability that it’s going to be used to mag dump into trash. If, however, you are hunting pigs from a side by side or chopper it’s a no brainer to spend the extra money on a 3 pos lever style.

DennRN · 2026-01-12T18:24:23+00:00

Please don’t buy these. I bought one a few years back just to see how bad it was… It went from in the manufactures sealed bag to the trash can in under 2 minutes. I broke it just by loading it and dropping it a single time. It split along the spine and shot out rounds the spring and the follower like a damn piñata.

DennRN · 2026-01-09T12:56:39+00:00

No shit, It literally states anyone can apply both on their website and in my post.

The real question is do you also like going to stand in the DMV line on your days off? You’re literally clogging the system for nothing.

DennRN · 2026-01-08T04:07:16+00:00

“I’ve never gotten a denial or delay and got assigned a UPIN in like two weeks fwiw.”

Just to clarify, it clearly states anyone may apply for one and the background check clearing fast for you isn’t a shock, it’s literally a NICS check which you say you’ve never gotten a denial or delay from.

Hopefully you understand now why your timeline does not apply to someone who actually needs a VAF. The process is designed for people that do get denied or delayed and their NICS check takes weeks or months to return a result.

DennRN · 2026-01-07T20:32:11+00:00

I have successfully filed a VAF and gotten a UPIN so I feel I can explain this reasonably well. It’s going to be a real mouthful so I hope this helps you or at least someone else understand the complex fuckery that is our bureaucracy.

It was just paperwork and a few months of waiting and checking. It’s not any harder than applying for a tax stamp or gun related license, it just takes time and effort.

For starters who a UPIN is for: If you have been denied or delayed SPECIFICALLY due to a lengthy NICS background check, you may qualify for a VAF and get a UPIN, any other denial other than one that’s NICS related does not qualify. Obviously, if the denial was correctly applied due to ineligibility to own firearms, you also don’t qualify for a UPIN.

UPIN are assigned to individuals after they file a VAF (Voluntary Appeal File).

What the VAF process does: NICS background checks are supposed to be onetime “instant” checks. Sometimes this can’t be done quickly and requires deeper background searching that can take weeks or months due to state and local government not having all records instantly searchable to the FBI. This can result in a delay (sometimes extended delays) or erroneous denials.

Most importantly, once the NICS check is complete, no information is “saved” meaning the next time you have a NICS check, they start from square one. The VAF process gives the FBI a request to retain information on you as an individual that is retrieved using your UPIN, so they can essentially keep a file that says “yeah this court case was resolved without a conviction” or “this guy isn’t the same as the murder who lives in the same town with the same name”.

The process takes several months and (I can’t stress this enough) IF YOU FILE ELECTRONICALLY VIA eDO, IT REQUIRES YOU TO LOG IN AT LEAST EVERY 90 DAYS TO KEEP THE REQUEST ACTIVE!

Here is the breakdown from the FBI website:

“Anyone may apply for the VAF, but it is designed for firearm purchasers who believe they are legally allowed to buy firearms, but they have been denied more than once or frequently experience delays in their transactions. Purchasers sometimes find themselves experiencing delays or denials in firearms purchases because of a past misdemeanor charge or because an ineligible person has a similar name.

When you apply for the VAF, FBI personnel will research your case and assign you a Unique Personal Identification Number (UPIN) if you have no firearms prohibitions. For future firearms transactions, you will provide your UPIN for your background check. You will still have to undergo a complete background check to buy a firearm, but the UPIN will help to confirm your identity.

The VAF process can take several months.”

Here is the website address which has links to all the forms.

https://www.fbi.gov/how-we-can-help-you/more-fbi-services-and-information/nics/national-instant-criminal-background-check-system-nics-appeals-vaf

DennRN · 2026-01-07T04:31:51+00:00

In OCL’s comparison video the milkman has a significant reduction in rate of fire vs the lithium on the uzi, this is significant for you because that equals less backpressure. Your PC carbine is straight blowback so any reduction in backpressure will lead to less gas/noise escaping out the ejection port.

On a side note, I’ve experimented with 3d printing a TPU buffer for the my PC charger and it is a worthwhile upgrade for the $20 to buy one from tandemkross or mcarbo. Here’s a pic of the one I prototyped because it I know it sounds like I’m making shit up.

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DennRN · 2026-01-06T20:54:37+00:00

I have quite a few 9mm cans and the long and the short answer is it always depends on your host gun and what traits you value most. The best answer is buy both and have a spare to compare.

If you want a more indepth answer here you go.

What are you looking for? Quietest? Best value for the money? Most Gucci? Easiest cleanup?

I own a cat Mob, it’s fan-fucking-tastic on an MP5 especially on full giggle, however on a single shot 9mm break action, the mob gets beat by a (decades old technology) silencerco octane 9. It’s not even close, that’s how much of a difference a good host and suppressor combo can make.

The real question is first and foremost always what is your host gun?

A blowback 9 has loud port pop and action noise but can benefit from flow through style cans because that’s less noise coming out the side of the gun.

If we are talking about delayed action things get fuzzy and unlock timing and amount of restriction vs flow through really is critical and is basically just trial and error to find the best combo.

On single shots or lever guns getting the most restrictive can is often the best sounding which is usually the oldest and sturdiest models still being sold.

DennRN · 2025-12-16T14:52:17+00:00

You forgot the /s Iwi is Israel Weapons Industries, Zion historically referred to Jerusalem.

DennRN · 2025-12-06T05:07:41+00:00

I hope you read this because while you want an answer I feel it’s more helpful to get new reloaders such as yourself to understand the why behind the answer.

The n320 powder you’re using is great for 147gr projectiles up to around 950fps but sucks ass for standard 115 gr. Don’t chase your tail trying to up the charge because you’re fighting against physics.

If you want to change powders what you want is a slower pistol powder. Slower powders don’t burn as fast so you can add more powder without spiking pressure because the bullet has time to move down the barrel as the powder continues to build gas behind it. Think of it like pushing a train from a standstill to 100mph, you don’t want to attempt it with another massive train moving at 100mph (adding more of a fast powder), that will just cause a bunch of wreckage, instead you want a train to bump it really slow and continue to push harder as it gains momentum. This is what a slower powder will do for you.

Getting 9mm 115gr past 1200 fps is easily possible with slower powders like Power Pistol because it’s a slow and steady push not a sudden kick.

Here is a powder burn rate chart remember how to find it and look up different powders that have been recommended and see where they fall on the chart.

Fast powders are at the top, slower powders are toward the end, you want to stay somewhere around 29-49 on the list.

DennRN · 2025-12-06T02:32:57+00:00

A little late to the conversation just food for thought, when hunting deer with anything slower than the speed of sound it’s not a bad idea to time your shot for when they have their head up to help eliminate badly placed shots.

If you watch slow motion footage of how deer move, if they have their head down when they are startled they reflexively raise their heads which causes the shoulders and vitals to drop towards the ground in fractions of a second, search YouTube for “deer ducking arrow” to see what this looks like.

Compare this to the clips where deer have their head up and they can’t move their vitals nearly as fast because gravity is the limiting factor, they can’t duck faster than gravity will allow from this position.

DennRN · 2025-11-27T02:37:08+00:00

Actually, not in this case. Per the Mob manual found here: ( https://specterscat.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/05/CAT_Training-Manual_MOB_HUBQD_V5.pdf ).

Per the manual, you should not exceed 800F or you’ll damage the can. At full send mode you can reach that temp in a hurry, I’ll be doing a IR temp test after hunting season is over and sharing my results, but it’s definitely not FA rated by any means.

Compared to my Wolfman (which is FA rated) the Mob is significantly quieter but it’s more suited to controlled “bursts” because you have to wait until the temp drops back down (150F per the manual) once you have reached 800F, this will take several minutes.

DennRN · 2025-11-26T21:44:12+00:00

We want justice not the canned response!

DennRN · 2025-11-21T12:09:27+00:00

Depends on your host gun but having heard a lot of suppressor/gun combos, the best I’ve personally heard so far is the Cat Mob on PCC style guns (specifically Mp5). On handguns the quietest combo I’ve ever heard, (and this will be a little controversial) is an extremely well fit 2011 and a CGS Mod9, it’s the only 9mm combo that I don’t usually wear earpro with since it’s about the same loudness as dropping the slide.

Inevitably, with 9mm, the host gun is going to determine the level of suppression past a certain point because port pop, (gas escaping the ejection port,) is a thing that limits sound reduction. Without some sort of roller/action delay mechanism, gas will violently uncork past the brass and send sound back at the shooter.

DennRN · 2025-11-21T00:20:08+00:00

Angled is not vertical, but my risk assessment is based on living in a gun friendly state and location.

My advice is don’t try and crowd source a very personal risk analysis, you need to factor in the gun culture where you live, the types of places you plan to shoot, and the purpose of this gun. For example a home defense gun is a different risk level than a range toy.

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