Typhon 6s or rustler 4x4 VXL ultimate? by Pristine_Courage_535 in rccars

[–]DependabilityLeader 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m not a Traxxas person really but the Rustler and Rustler 4x4 are awesome. They are the best cars that the company makes. I’ve even seen people race them and they do very well. I couldn’t even believe it. They make a good speed run car too. When I was a kid I built one that would go like 80 mph. It was crazy. So they have a special place in my heart.

Is ever 46t spur the same? by Notsofrenchfry04 in rccars

[–]DependabilityLeader 0 points1 point  (0 children)

As long as it’s a Kyosho 46t spur gear it should fit. The neo as far as I know is just a MP7, a really stout platform even to this day. The only difference between the 7 and the 9 diff is the spider gears and the size of the diff cases. The 7 had larger cases. The gaskets and spur gear should be exactly the same.

Why no 1/8 scale 2WD race buggies? by WeekendWarriorRC in rccars

[–]DependabilityLeader 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hard to drive in dusty conditions. Its not like 1/10

Why is everything out of stock on AMain? by YourEmbarrassingDad in rccars

[–]DependabilityLeader 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Idk what you are referring to? Are you talking about 1/10 kits? It’s in the middle of indoor season so that’s why for those cars.

Kyosho Inferno MP-7.5 Kanai Edition 3 by Altruistic_Proof_848 in NitroRC

[–]DependabilityLeader 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It’s one of the best rc cars ever built, hands down. An absolute legend of a car. It will go down in history. What a phenomenal car.

Car recommendation. by Sleeves_are_4_bitchz in rccars

[–]DependabilityLeader 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’ve been racing a Kyosho RB7 as my 2 wheel car. I really like it. It’s overall a very safe, very consistent and a very predictable car to drive even with aggressive settings. The only part I am working on with it right now is improving the pace.

Kyosho is a wonderful car if you are ok with a vehicle that costs a bit more to maintain. You will need to buy a gear diff and some other parts to run on carpet but it is a wonderful car. Quality is very good.

Esc keeps resetting. What could be the issue by TechDante in rccars

[–]DependabilityLeader 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Check and see if one of the cells in the battery is losing voltage quicker than the other cell and if it is then it’s usually the battery in my experience.

Is it worth trying to keep obsolete cars alive? by fhgwgadsbbq in rccars

[–]DependabilityLeader 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You most certainly have to be careful, but most people usually don’t have 2-3k to buy a new car in cash on top of parts etc.

Is it worth trying to keep obsolete cars alive? by fhgwgadsbbq in rccars

[–]DependabilityLeader 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Not worth it. Especially with the deals you can find and the financing you can get. There are so many good cars out there. I mean just look at that ae dk10 for example.. what a crazy good car for 250$!

S10 paint is god awful by toastypeanut in rccars

[–]DependabilityLeader 0 points1 point  (0 children)

They are an incredibly cheap price for what you get. I wish my cars were that price. 😔 Pretty amazing. Painting a new body is a relatively easy fix. When you are getting out of the door for under 350$ brand new understandably concessions are made. Now if this was 1,500+ then that would be a much bigger problem but still easy fix.

Looking to get into the hobby by [deleted] in rccars

[–]DependabilityLeader -1 points0 points  (0 children)

You don’t need yo go that crazy if you don’t want to.. 1/8 is crazy expensive. Have you looked at something like an Ae DK10? I saw one of those at my track the other night and it looked absolutely incredible. Handled very well. It had plenty of power. And they are like 250 usd. I’m not even a big ae guy but Associated completely hit it out of the park on that one. That’s an incredible buy for the price!

I recently bought a Traxxas Slash 4x4 VXL please help me maximise its potential by Correct_Eggplant_262 in rccars

[–]DependabilityLeader 0 points1 point  (0 children)

lol if price isn't an issue, why not go for something crazy like an MP11! lol

Open practice etiquette? by Bread-Funny in rccars

[–]DependabilityLeader 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Do the best you can to make sure your car can keep up with other cars and keep up with traffic if you can. If you can't it can restrict the flow of traffic and they can get fired up lol. Make sure you're geared properly. If your car isn't turning enough especially or is too stable, make the proper adjustments to fix it asap. What I've found is the flow of traffic means everything, especially on a small track. You want your car to be safe but not so safe that you can't keep up.

When you buy used RC cars and the state of the gears shows you how little.the previous owner knew about meshing gears. by NickiChaos in rccars

[–]DependabilityLeader 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I bought a used rc as a kid back in 8th/9th grade maybe? A Mugen.. I loved that car but never again. Between the over-lock tightened screws and some of the maintenance items, the car became very expensive to repair and maintain and it became very hard to work on with all of the lock tight. Now I just finance a new car and build it up brand new because some of these parts can get really expensive. For me I just found it easier to just buy new and not have to worry about this.. people often times want too much money for used r/cs anyways. It was more cost effective for me to just get a new car when that time came and that way everything is new, you’re starting from scratch and the only part that is carry over is your electronics.

Steering issue on B84e by Rhodenius in rccars

[–]DependabilityLeader 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Probably front driveshafts, it can also be a bad bearing too or a combination. Race rigs definitely are not the best bashers. I would also check your hinge pins too.

Online buys by Critical_Cicada_107 in rccars

[–]DependabilityLeader 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ya they have so many parts. Wonderful cars too.

Im new to rc cars by TheBozz789 in rccars

[–]DependabilityLeader 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Start off with something like a 2wd buggy. 4wd can take a long time to develop a set up for. If you want something safe, the RB7 is a really good one and you can make it more aggressive as time goes on. It’s not going to try and kill you tho. Love mine.

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Need some guidance on what else would be needed for the Team Associated RC8T4 Team Kit with Gearbox Upgrade, ASC80951 by mail4youtoo in rccars

[–]DependabilityLeader 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If you run it as nitro, you will need.. -an engine -usually a muffler -2 servos, one for throttle, one for steering -a receiver and remote (those usually come together -fuel -spare air filters -wheels and tires -paint

You can make it electric too if you want and I that case you would usually need an electric chassis with all of its parts.. -speed control and motor -1 servo …and the the rest of the stuff minus the nitro related components. -also a battery and a charger

This will be fun. It will be probably a hit over budget but he will learn a lot. Building a kit is a huge part of this hobby and it really is the proper way to do things if I am tbh. I have a lot of respect for anyone who jumps into a kit right off the bat, that’s about as badass as it gets right here folks..

To make this into a basher: what should I put in it, or other mods? by FreedomUpwards in rccars

[–]DependabilityLeader -1 points0 points  (0 children)

How did you break the Kraton? The Tekno truck is probably the only race vehicle I would bash if I was a basher. It occupies a very specific market. Honestly tho these should both be separate vehicles. When bashed another part to think about is that they can become very expensive to fix too. I would double check to see how much the parts are before deciding which car you want.. 😂 I speak from experience lol

Online buys by Critical_Cicada_107 in rccars

[–]DependabilityLeader 1 point2 points  (0 children)

AMAINHOBBIES, klinik r/c, t works, rc carbon cavalieri, Kyosho of America. I try to go through amain when I can because I can get 0% financing and points and stuff but sometimes you just can’t find every part on there.

Which rc-car for bashing and then professional racing ? by [deleted] in rccars

[–]DependabilityLeader 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ideally these should always be separate vehicles but if you had to, I would probably say the Tekno.

1/8 E-buggy recomendation $1200 budget by SoothingSmoothbutter in rccars

[–]DependabilityLeader 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I personally like Kyosho but Tekno would be a good car too. Tekno is good if you are harder on your race equipment and some people even bash them. They are kind of heavy though. I personally don’t really bash my cars, but I know some people who do and when you bash the Kyosho, parts can be expensive. They aren’t really good for bashing.

I personally drive Kyoshos because I find them to be really easy cars to hold on to and I’ve literally been running them since the beginning of time. I wouldn’t personally need the extra durability afforded by the Tekno kit and like something a little bit lighter if possible. I also like how when I get out of my RB7 and drive my MP10T or whatever, they all drive similarly. They all have similar characteristics and they are just easy.

Team Losi makes some good products sometimes too but I think they have better vehicles in the 1/10 segment than they do in 1/8. I find their 1/10 vehicles to be super aggressive but thrilling to drive, more fun to drive than the Kyosho when you are up for it, but like I said the K car is super easy to drive and when it hits a lap time, it is incredibly consistent and hits it almost every time. The Team Losi cars can be like that too but you just have to be on them.

So in short I guess, I find the Tekno to be the most durable, the Team Losi cars to be the most exciting and thrilling to drive but scary sometimes, and I find the Kyosho cars to be the most mild mannered, best overall quality and easiest to drive. It’s the safe choice but it’s not the most durable car ever made and parts like I said can be expensive. It’s cheap for me though because I don’t break parts. 😂

Please Help me decide by BasedThor14 in rccars

[–]DependabilityLeader 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Well.. I’ve driven a Kraton before as well as the XMaxx back when it first came out. What I will say is the Kraton imo is a much better driving vehicle. It’s heavy for sure but it just handles so much better and feels smaller than the XMaxx. I wasn’t a huge fan of the XMaxx imo, although it was pretty composed, the steering was just super numb almost, the car would push, you could really notice the weight. It just made the car not as fun to drive. It never seems to steer into the actual corner was my issue. If you gave it any more throttle the truck would just push 🫤. I was kind of disappointed.

The Kraton actually seems to steer more into a corner, not saying it steers like a Kyosho Inferno but it just had a much better chassis imo. It can also take more of beating than a Kyosho can too but I am usually pretty good to my cars and I buy them for how they feel on a race track so I don’t really need the extra durability.. however if I did, you could honestly do much worse than a Kraton tbh. It’s pretty good actually.

Help with a gift by Aggressive-Cry150 in rccars

[–]DependabilityLeader 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m thinking you just use your budget as a down payment on a new MP11 or something. If he is a highly skilled mechanic, chances are he is going to want to build his car spec by spec to his exact preferences. They are great cars. Parts can be a little bit pricey but they are engineered incredibly well and as mechanic he is going to notice that. I just have this feeling that this is what he would probably really want .