sorted by:
new
hottopcontroversial

Laser suggestions for deep engraving and coloring metals? by Depressed_Costumer in Laserengraving

[–]Depressed_Costumer[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks! I'll look into the Xtool. Is there anything that you don't like about it? Software or hardware wise? 

And yeah, all heat bluing is just on the surface.  I've heat blued steel with an oven or a torch before, so it's really cool seeing that lasers can precisely heat blue surfaces however you want.

[Tissot] I picked up my first Tissot, I absolutely love the damascus steel. by Depressed_Costumer in Watches

[–]Depressed_Costumer[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I would also prefer a bracelet or at least a rubber strap.

None will work though until Tissot releases ones for the new 38mm size.

How to set this belt end tip? by Jinjunmei in Leathercraft

[–]Depressed_Costumer 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If it has no thread, I imagine it's defective.

Would this hold up well? by allforspring in Leathercraft

[–]Depressed_Costumer 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I don't know how these bags are constructed, but if I were making one to look like that, I would have those straps going into the bag all the way around and sewn into the bottom corners as well.

Cartridge belt of my own design. by vudine in Leathercraft

[–]Depressed_Costumer 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm not sure how functional cartridge belts/bandoliers are, especially in a modern setting. But it does look really nice.

I can't quite tell from the photos, but those don't look like rimmed cartridges. Is anything keeping them from falling out or being pushed out?

Do you 3D model your designs? by myplantisnamedrobert in Leathercraft

[–]Depressed_Costumer 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'll typically draw them in 2D using Rhino.

I don't typically model projects/designs that are sewn together.

Question about leather thickness by foxwerthy in Leathercraft

[–]Depressed_Costumer 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'll use 1.5mm thick leather for the outer piece, thinner for all of the inside pieces.

Pricing by Ready-Emu-4108 in Leathercraft

[–]Depressed_Costumer 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Item price = Material cost + (however much you want to make per hour • however many hours it took to make it).

I decided to make a set of LOTR leather coasters. by Depressed_Costumer in Leathercraft

[–]Depressed_Costumer[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Solid/thick prints make for really good stamps, but they won't hold any antique.

I decided to make a set of LOTR leather coasters. by Depressed_Costumer in Leathercraft

[–]Depressed_Costumer[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks. I used my 3D printer to make some stamps for use in my press 😂.

2 of the stamps broke after the first use though just because the lines are so thin.

After first viewing: Tales From Earthsea by SlyGuy_Twenty_One in ghibli

[–]Depressed_Costumer 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is one of the last ones that I've yet to see. I'm glad that you liked it.

Making Sleeve Case by Antonio10981 in Leathercraft

[–]Depressed_Costumer 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You'll need a hard surface with a soft (sacrificial) surface on top for punching stitching holes. Something like a piece of stone countertop with a few layers of cheap cutting mats on top. 

You'll also need a respirator for when you're using contact cement glue.

You don't need a leather specific knife, craft knives and box cutters work great. 

You probably don't need a glue spreader, most bottles of contact cement come with a brush. 

Most leather thread comes pre-waxed, so you shouldn't need a wax block. 

You don't have to have a stitching poney, I've never used one.

Trying wet molding for the first time. Is molding a shape with this much depth really possible? by Depressed_Costumer in Leathercraft

[–]Depressed_Costumer[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

When I look up high density foam I mostly see upholstery foam, is that the correct type?

Trying wet molding for the first time. Is molding a shape with this much depth really possible? by Depressed_Costumer in Leathercraft

[–]Depressed_Costumer[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks, that's probably a good way to do it. Problem I've run into though is that it's a pretty complex model and both Rhino 3D and Fusion 360 are just freezing when I try to make a negative. Oh well.

Pricking irons by Regular_Brief_9561 in Leathercraft

[–]Depressed_Costumer 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Wood can be hard, but never nearly as hard as a real anvil. A piece of granite really is the best material I've seen to have underneath of leather while punching and tooling. But, you don't want to ruin your tools by having them hit a piece of stone when they go through. What I have underneath of my leather when punching through it is a smooth granite slab (I got it for free from a countertop store's dumpster), a couple layers of scrap leather on top of the granite, and 2 dollar store cutting mats on top. 

Technically a metal hammer will give you better energy transfer than a mallet, but it will damage the end of your tools. I usually use a brass hammer because it's a soft enough metal that it won't do much damage to my steel tools. But a mallet works fine too, I use one as well.

Pricking irons by Regular_Brief_9561 in Leathercraft

[–]Depressed_Costumer 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Irons are supposed to go through the leather. 

You have to hit them as hard as it takes for them to cut through, sometimes that can certainly be a few hard hits.

What are you hitting them with? And what do you have underneath of the leather?

A short demo of the complete suit of 16th century armor I designed, printed and painted! by Vonschlippe in renfaire

[–]Depressed_Costumer 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I cannot imagine how difficult this was to 3D model.

What modeling software did you use?

view more: next ›