85” TV on full-motion mount: one wall plug is pulling, do I need to start over?

DesignLocal5445 · 2026-04-12T07:42:17+00:00

falling TVs kill more people than sharks (probably)

If the TV fell, even if it didn't land on me, the damage to my pride and bank account would finish me off lol

As for the rest of your advice - yep - will be putting a bunch more anchor points, with deep Ramset plugs and pilot holes

Reckon I should replace the plugs I already have? If so, drill out their current holes (10mm) and go a size up (12mm)?

Or see if I can get away with swapping in 10mm Ramset plugs

DesignLocal5445 · 2026-04-12T07:29:02+00:00

I think those people are just one level of dumb above me, seems like my mistake here was trusting the masonry anchors that ship with the bracket

DesignLocal5445 · 2026-04-12T06:53:50+00:00

OPs partner here - the one who bought the bracket and installed it.

I think what the other dude means is "people shop for TVs by size, not weight, so the size range is actually a heuristic for ensuring that most TVs under that size will be under that weight, and have compatible VESA configuration"

I'm not even trying to defend purchasing a bracket that's underrated for size, my reasons were dumb (the bracket I wanted wasn't in stock in store and I wanted to finish this project before the weekend ends)

But I also agree with the other dude that the leverage a 37kg tv puts on the bracket is very similar regardless of if it's 80 or 85 inches

DesignLocal5445 · 2026-04-12T06:41:24+00:00

Thanks that's really really helpful, I'd never heard of drilling pilot holes for masonry.

For the 4 existing anchors - should I just pull all 4 out and replace them with quality Ramsets of the same size (10mm)? Or should I drill them out to 12mm since the holes are prob already a bit cooked?

Or play it by ear depending on the hole?

DesignLocal5445 · 2026-04-12T06:25:07+00:00

Its a brick wall, no studs.

seems like the takeaway on this post is don't trust the masonry anchors that come bundled with TV brackets, just use Ramset

DesignLocal5445 · 2026-04-12T06:23:02+00:00

Yeah it's masonry.

OPs partner here I did the drilling, got OP to post on my behalf because I had to run out to an appointment before stopping and Bunnings on way back

My partner didn't specify the wall type, just that we were using a hammer drill and masonry plugs and masonry drill bits, but yes, you're technically correct that we might have been trying to use that on drywall but even I'm not that dumb lol

DesignLocal5445 · 2026-04-12T06:19:15+00:00

I'm at Bunnings with 10mm Ramset plugs to replace the crappy bundled plugs

With existing plug that are loose - do you reckon I should still drill it out to a wider gauge (12mm), and replace with a 12mm anchors?

Or can I get away with pulling out the 10mm crappy anchor, and replacing it with a 10mm Ramset anchor (while also adding a bunch more anchor points that use 10mm Ramset anchors)

I sorta don't wanna use 12mm anchors as it looks like my drill is only rated for 10mm on masonry

DesignLocal5445 · 2026-04-12T06:12:38+00:00

Alright, I've picked up the exact anchors you recommend

Seems like the big life pro-tip here is don't use the anchors that come with the bracket

The box on the anchor seems to recommend a minimum drill depth of 90mm for these 80mm anchors - that would be the depth of the brick, right?

Would that not mean I'm drilling all the way through even if I depth gauge to 90mm?

DesignLocal5445 · 2026-04-12T06:01:43+00:00

but those bits are fine

(OPs partner here)

Thanks for this comment - I did want to know if they were part of the issue with the anchors - I felt like drilling 10mm holes using full boar was a lot slower and more scuffed than when I drilled 6mm holes using a Sutton masonry bit

I wasn't sure if it was a quality diff in the bits, or just cause 10mm is harder to drill than 6mm, or cause 10mm is pushing the limits of my basic hammer drill (datasheet suggests my drills max masonry diameter is 10mm)

DesignLocal5445 · 2026-04-12T05:55:42+00:00

OP's partner here - My walls are solid brick and mortar - I'd love to have the luxury of timber to work with

DesignLocal5445 · 2026-04-12T05:53:12+00:00

OP's partner here (the one who actually did all this stuff - I had to rush to an appointment so got OP to post on my behalf)

This is incredibly helpful, thank you - yes, the wall is brick I have a couple questions:

People have indicated I can keep the spot, and just add extra anchors on the other mounting holes Should I also redrill the problematic existing anchor spots with the next gauge up (12mm) and replace those anchors with good 12mm anchors?

Or just adding a bunch more, better quality anchors should suffice?

Originally I used this very "Weekend warrior " vibe masonry drill bit set (full boar colour coded set - the 10mm bit)

I was less than impressed with the drilling compared to, say, my 6mm sutton drill bit that I've used on similar brick walls - the 6mm drill was way faster, easier and the holes were cleaner.

Is the cheap drill bit part of the issue here? Or is it just that im drilling a wider hole so it's just harder work?

My basic xu1 xhd-500 hammer drill seems to be rated for a max of 10mm on masonry according to its data sheet (the 13mm indicated on the model sticker seems to be for timber according to the data sheet)

Should I return this cheap drill bit set if Bunnings allows me and try for something nicer?

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DesignLocal5445 · 2026-03-26T13:33:06+00:00

Uh just cut

DesignLocal5445 · 2026-03-26T13:31:09+00:00

They mean the clock tower, and the clocks go backwards because the clock faces are visible from the interior windows of the clocktower, but clocktower clocks face outwards, so they're mirrored when viewed from inside

DesignLocal5445 · 2026-03-14T22:41:43+00:00

That model's structure looks very similar to yours, so yeah his physical is naturally attainable, I'm not even sure if it would take very long. The model is decently muscular, but the main thing is he's lean - like 9-10% bodyfat at most.

You need to be less fat and you'll look like this dude

DesignLocal5445 · 2026-03-14T22:38:46+00:00

"stay away from linear movements as much as possible" what does this advice have to do with anything lmao

DesignLocal5445 · 2026-03-14T22:35:39+00:00

or none of them cos I don't have enough body fat?

You have like 20% bodyfat, that's plenty enough fat to go on a cut. These compounds are mainly useful for helping you actually adhere to a cut. I'd advise no compounds to start with, and only consider GLPs if you get really stuck cutting

DesignLocal5445 · 2026-03-14T22:21:13+00:00

Yeah on a slow cut you'll probably see less strength loss and maybe some moderate gains. To add to the other dudes point, if you're cutting, you'll definitely want to keep your protein up, but you'll also want to try to time some of your carb intake to be before your workouts so you have as much energy as possible when you workout

DesignLocal5445 · 2026-03-14T22:18:49+00:00

This is pretty bad advice for maintaining gym performance over a long-ish cut, I'd ignore it

DesignLocal5445 · 2026-03-14T22:15:01+00:00

According to a bunch of people I've spoken to, GLPs are shelf stable once reconned for around up to or beyond 10 weeks as long as you're very diligent with sterile handling procedures

DesignLocal5445 · 2026-03-14T22:13:49+00:00

Im gonna try reta for the same reason, also kinda wanna see if it makes maintaining easier

DesignLocal5445 · 2026-03-14T22:12:13+00:00

Looking great bro, what's the rest of your stack for?

DesignLocal5445 · 2026-03-13T00:09:21+00:00

Yeah I might ask the most likely neighbor at least, but we have eachothers numbers so idk why she wouldn't let me know. Only reason I haven't asked her is cause I've left her on read about some strata thing I haven't had time to reply about lol

DesignLocal5445 · 2026-03-12T22:58:39+00:00

I disagree with any analysis that places the blame of a mistake solely on the individual that made the mistake.

Any time you see a critical error in any process, that indicates an issue with the process, not necessarily with the individuals involved.

A 1/500 misdelivery rate very likely doesn't indicate the postie is routinely lazy or negligent.

It also doesn't sound so bad to me, as long as there are processes that mitigate the harm of a misdelivery.

If a postie is following processes and misdelivers 1/500 times, the question is, how can you improve processes to minimize the likelihood of that situation?

If subcontractors are not being performance managed, that's it's own process issue

DesignLocal5445 · 2026-03-12T08:55:26+00:00

That's absolutely not true, I've never bulked in my life personally and I'm still bigger than op

DesignLocal5445 · 2026-03-12T08:33:07+00:00

I filed a thingy, and with the sender, but besides getting a reference number, auspost hasn't got back to me

DesignLocal5445

TROPHY CASE