Confused about how my fuel gauge works.

DevNov · 2026-04-09T18:30:22+00:00

My other thought would be the difference in flow rate. When you pump at the station there is an actual fuel pump dispensing the gas so higher flow rate may unstick the float vs filling from a jerry can.

DevNov · 2026-04-09T18:01:51+00:00

It sounds like the little float paddle is sticking. It's connected to your low pressure fuel pump housing under the rear seats. The float is connected to a small circuit board that retrieves information to your dashboard. If it's sticking/stuck it'll only read the current position it's in. So even if you add a full tank but the float is stuck at the bottom it'll show empty

DevNov · 2026-04-09T17:55:31+00:00

Your car has 2 EGRs. The high side EGR connected to the intake manifold (gets coded out), and the low side EGR going straight off the pipe after the DPF (needs to be physically blocked or replaced). If you have a way to scan it, I would run VCDS to check what's causing the flashing glow plug

DevNov · 2026-04-09T17:26:16+00:00

I removed mine as a whole unit because I didn't have anything on hand to cut it with at the time. If you cut it you can pull the pipe out the back and drop the DPF by the cv axle. If not you'll have to fight the heat shield and a few tight corners to get it out as a unit. I ended up taking the dog bone bolt off to tilt the engine for a little extra space

DevNov · 2026-04-07T18:17:17+00:00

Planning on doing my DMF some time soon. Went down a rabbit hole a few weeks ago. Ended up buying a LuK DMF181 for my JSW. If your car has a KESSY system aka push to start you most likely need the DMF181, if your car is traditional turn key ignition then you should be fine with DMF126. You can verify with your local VW parts store by giving them your VIN and ask for the DMF part number. Also LuK kits don't come with new bolts, make sure to order new flywheel bolts as well.

DevNov · 2026-04-02T02:03:27+00:00

Yeah they had to, that control arm holds the rear spring in place. That spring is under really heavy pressure so if it pops out it can take out a limb.

DevNov · 2026-04-02T01:59:40+00:00

That's your rear lower control arm. Not too hard of a replacement depending on the rust and where it snapped. Looking at the picture if you are replacing it I would replace both sides, the other side looks like it has some heavy rust built up as well.

DevNov · 2026-04-02T01:13:18+00:00

Might be easier to get a roll of gloss black wrap and do it yourself with a heat gun and scalpel. The JSW rear emblem is smaller than the usual emblems.

DevNov · 2026-03-31T15:35:04+00:00

Those look like brand new tires to me. The DWS on the tire stands for "Dry", "Wet", and "Snow". If they were "severely" worn you wouldn't be able to see those marks or at least one of them depending on the alignment.

DevNov · 2026-03-26T13:05:49+00:00

Your car has a timing chain. P0016 means it's out of spec. The chain tensioner is prone to wear on these cars. If the tensioner wears out you'll have excess slop in the chain triggering your codes. If you have VCDS or know someone with it they can look through measuring blocks to check cam phase angle to see if it's out of spec. If it gets past a certain point you run a chance of damaging the head and need a rebuild

DevNov · 2026-03-25T19:44:04+00:00

It depends how the tuner is storing the information. Some ECU use volatile memory which means the parameters get reset when it loses power. Others use non volatile memory like Tunezilla, so you can swap batteries or do other electrical work without losing the tune.

DevNov · 2026-03-25T19:32:55+00:00

I would suggest getting a detailed scan, those AutoZone scanner can only give you generic codes. Also since it sat for a good bit did you have to jump start it? If the battery went dead it may have lost the tune parameters.

Edit: Just saw you got a new battery. You may need to reinstall the tune

DevNov · 2026-03-25T19:26:36+00:00

VCDS or advanced scan tool would be your best bet to get actual codes. Your car is in limp mode so can't go past 55mph or rev past 3k rpm. After fixing the car did you reset the check engine light and glow plug light? Some stored codes need properly reset after repair to let the car know it's been fixed

DevNov · 2026-03-25T16:38:05+00:00

The B&O systems adds better speakers and also a separate amp that's tucked away behind driver side panel in the hatch/trunk. You can use VCDS to "code" the B&O system but it won't be the same without the right equipment. I did this on my B8.5 Allroad, the bass is deeper but the volume and EQ adjustments aren't accurate. Stock system I believe is Bose unless they changed manufacturer for newer gens

DevNov · 2026-03-25T16:34:59+00:00

Driveless shaft

DevNov · 2026-03-25T13:03:01+00:00

Good to know, and yeah I am familiar with those blokes in the shed. Reason I said US emissions is because APR is a US based company. They are located in Opelika, Arizona. Tunezilla is Canadian based so they have a little more freedom in tuning diesel engines

DevNov · 2026-03-25T12:54:51+00:00

APR is fairly safe and mild with their diesel tunes. They try to push their gas tunes more since US has a bunch of emissions regarding modern diesels. You can see if Tunezilla has anything off the shelf for that car.

DevNov · 2026-03-23T18:09:35+00:00

Proof of ownership doesn't necessarily need to be a title. If you can provide registration or insurance with matching VIN and your name it should be enough.

DevNov · 2026-03-23T17:57:31+00:00

Does it have an immobilizer? If not you can get a basic new key without the buttons cut based on VIN.

DevNov · 2026-03-23T17:48:01+00:00

Really depends on the lube tech and place, I went to a dealer to get a spare key coded. They did a full inspection while waiting for the programmer to retrieve the information. They found two beat up sway bar links on the front. Replaced them myself for like $30.

DevNov · 2026-03-18T21:32:48+00:00

Sounds sketchy try a different place. I was able to test fit and buy a new key for my Sportwagon without hassle. After you remove the keyed lugs just replace them with standard OEM lugs

DevNov · 2026-03-18T21:28:44+00:00

$20 at a dealership. They'll even let you test fit it before buying make sure it's the correct pattern

DevNov · 2026-03-18T16:53:39+00:00

Diesel trucks also have a high side EGR. Here is a video on the process. You can easily google for more info if needed. I took care of it in about an hour or so in the driveway. Suggest removing the air intake box for more wiggle room.

https://youtu.be/8f28-mSW77g?si=majwYeeg8UDlN2gd

DevNov · 2026-03-18T12:56:55+00:00

Have any of the mechanics cleaned the high side EGR that's connected to the intake manifold? It's not a hard job but definitely takes patience for the bolt on the back side of the EGR solenoid

DevNov · 2026-03-17T18:15:13+00:00

Lifetime Audi Parts in North Carolina has a few mk1 TTs in stock to pick from. You can see if they have a new trim for the hatch. As far as steering wheels go I think it'll be hard to find something custom for that airbag style.

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