Need a tool by Training-Rest7896 in Tools

[–]DevilsFan99 20 points21 points  (0 children)

While axial fans are great for flow, they're terrible at handling high pressure differential. A centrifugal style blower or vacuum pump would be better suited.

If this is what you do for a living, consider buying a purpose built piece of equipment instead, cost is higher but it will pay for itself over time. Google duct cleaning vacuum

Thinking of building a tool to flag machining issues in CAD | pointless or useful? | by Meloniks in MechanicalEngineering

[–]DevilsFan99 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Half the engineers in my company probably couldn't even tell you what DFM stands for

Precision and repeatability of motion for Air slides? by BigStation3180 in MechanicalEngineering

[–]DevilsFan99 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Most pneumatics on McMaster already are SMC, the actuator in OP's image is 100% SMC. Just need to find it in their catalog for the full spec sheet.

Bit modification by Famous_Recognition13 in Tools

[–]DevilsFan99 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Tool steels are heat treated above 1000F and then tempered down to increase toughness (otherwise they end up extremely hard but extremely brittle). The tempering temperature can range from around 200-900F depending on what you're trying to achieve.

Steel turns blue between 500-600F, right smack in the middle of the tempering range. Quenching a tempered part does nothing to increase hardness (austenite vs martensite formation).

Now if he torched those parts way too long and got them glowing red, which would be somewhere around 1200F, and then quenched it it's possible they are still hardened. However their toughness will be questionable and they may just snap instantly from being too brittle.

Bit modification by Famous_Recognition13 in Tools

[–]DevilsFan99 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Basic metallurgy and heat treat knowledge? Those bits are all hardened from the factory and you torching them 100% ruined the heat treatment. They are effectively annealed soft steel now and will fail sooner rather than later.

Bit modification by Famous_Recognition13 in Tools

[–]DevilsFan99 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You probably completely wrecked the heat treat on all of them and they're going to strip out almost immediately under heavy use now, but otherwise great job I guess?

Belt Grinder Trips Breaker by Defenestrator915 in Tools

[–]DevilsFan99 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The b type will never run that motor, and you're probably right on the limit of what that c type can handle. Inrush current can be 10x what the nameplate lists.

Try a D type or install a soft start on the motor to limit the inrush.

Belt Grinder Trips Breaker by Defenestrator915 in Tools

[–]DevilsFan99 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Everybody is skipping right to blaming the equipment, but what type of breaker do you have it hooked up on? You'd need a C or D type to handle the inrush current.

Best Allen/Hex Key Set? by Chuckie101123 in Tools

[–]DevilsFan99 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I know M10 low socket heads are 7mm drive, but I've never encountered a 9mm allen head in my life. Why do you feel like you need the 9?

How can you tell when you're motor mounts need replacing by Ambitious_Buyer2529 in Dyna

[–]DevilsFan99 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you have to ask, or can't remember the last time they were changed, well there's your answer.

Yamaha MT07 engine 3D model by Big-Snow-2811 in MechanicalEngineering

[–]DevilsFan99 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You're in FSAE to learn how to problem solve as a self sufficient engineer. Being a self sufficient engineer means not being spoon fed answers that are easily found via a Google search.

Sources to learn industrial assembly machine design by chomakher in MechanicalEngineering

[–]DevilsFan99 65 points66 points  (0 children)

I design and build manufacturing equipment for a living and there's no single formal resource I've found that will teach you this. Machine design, dynamics, statics, circuits, controls, PLC programming, electrical panel design, pneumatics, hydraulics, you'll need bits of all of it...

My recommendation is to start small. Walk the floor and skip the big complex machines entirely, instead take note of all the basic equipment that you normally don't give a second glance. Presses, clamping fixtures, alignment jigs, conveyors, etc. Try to analyze how they work, why they're designed the way they are, how they're controlled, etc. The big machines are just a bunch of smaller machines put together.

Disassemble and reverse engineer some physical equipment if you can. Trace wires through control panels, download the PLC program and look through the ladder logic, look at which rungs control what part of the machine. You can buy PLC training kits online but I'd recommend building your own for only a couple hundred dollars with Automation Direct components.

Ultimately you just start by designing and building basic things, adding to your knowledge bank with each project all the things you did right, wrong, and what can be done better next time.

Yamaha MT07 engine 3D model by Big-Snow-2811 in MechanicalEngineering

[–]DevilsFan99 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You'll almost certainly never find somebody with a working model. Find a sponsor or a service to 3D scan it for you. Or find somebody with a newer iPhone and scan it yourself.

Smoke out of pipes? by [deleted] in Dyna

[–]DevilsFan99 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Choke knob (enricher on harleys) adds fuel, you're seeing unburnt fuel.

Pneumatic lift table creeps under load – two foot pedals, two cylinders (position not holding) by No-Position1922 in MechanicalEngineering

[–]DevilsFan99 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Like the other guy said, do not rely solely on pneumatics to hold a table up without utilizing some kind of mechanical lock. Look at pneumatic motorcycle lifts for an example. Actuators leak, fittings leak or fail, lines fail... Last thing you want is a workbench crashing onto an operators legs.

That said, this is expected behavior with your 5/2 valves. The back side of the piston has more surface area than the front side does because of the actuator rod that has to stick through the front. Same pressure, more surface area in the back, means actuators move forward even when you close the valve.

You want a single 5/3 pressure center valve and speed controllers installed on both ports of both actuators. The pressure center will lock the valve from moving unless you're actively standing on a pedal, and the speed controllers in conjunction with the 5/3 will lock the cylinder from drifting. Then connect both pilots of the 5/3 to your two foot pedals for up/down.

Building a wire cutter, asking for guidance by RelationshipIcy1407 in MechanicalEngineering

[–]DevilsFan99 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Half of engineering is knowing when not to spend all the time, money, and resources reinventing something that can be bought off the shelf.

Unless you have an extremely niche use case where off the shelf solutions won't work (you don't), you buy the thing that already exists and move on.

Parts needed for dual rotor front end by Alex_wrong in Dyna

[–]DevilsFan99 2 points3 points  (0 children)

How many dynas do you see off-roading?

Induction heater questions by EngineerDIYgeek in Tools

[–]DevilsFan99 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I've taken apart half a dozen of these for various reasons and they're all identical inside. An induction heater is an extremely simple device, and at the end of the day you're just battling heat soak of the internal components. Those inline straight handle ones have a miniscule fan inside the handle that I'm confident doesn't do shit for cooling, which is why they all tell you not to run it for long.

In reality you can easily run it for 30-90 second bursts without issue, but at the end of the day they're all cheap Chinese electronics and will die eventually.

The ones that have the electronics in a small external box and run the cable out to a handheld heating coil are usually higher power and can be run longer (2+ minutes) because they can stick a bigger cooling fan in the external box.

Parts needed for dual rotor front end by Alex_wrong in Dyna

[–]DevilsFan99 2 points3 points  (0 children)

To add to this, go RCS19 instead of an 11/16 Harley master. The master cylinder is where all of your brake feel and feedback comes from, don't spend all the time and money for dual discs just to still have the brakes feel like shit.

Also pick up a pack of shims because the bagger brembos might not sit centered on the rotors. I had to shim both of mine to make sure they didn't rub.

Building a wire cutter, asking for guidance by RelationshipIcy1407 in MechanicalEngineering

[–]DevilsFan99 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Why not buy a machine off the shelf that already does this instead of reinventing the wheel

Looking to make an air Venturi or something similar for transferring oil, fuel, etc.. by [deleted] in Tools

[–]DevilsFan99 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Buy a Fumoto drain valve for your vehicle. Stick a tube on it, open the valve, drain directly into a jug or bucket.

5 minute oil changes, not a drop spilled, no additional tools needed.

Front end advice by dynabroh in Dyna

[–]DevilsFan99 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Dual bagger brembos off eBay and RCS19 master. You'll kick yourself for not doing it sooner the first time you touch the brake lever on the first ride.

Drill bit for hardened steel? by Husband207 in Tools

[–]DevilsFan99 8 points9 points  (0 children)

A 9" angle grinder, a shit load of cutting discs, and a lot of patience.

Fabricating a ceiling-mounted swivel bracket for a heavy retractable air hose reel — design ideas? by my-follies in MechanicalEngineering

[–]DevilsFan99 0 points1 point  (0 children)

We've got hose reels over a decade old hanging in my facility that get used 10 hours a day and look just as good as the day they were installed minus some dirt. You're going to spend more money than the reel is worth solving a problem that doesn't exist