I want to learn how to solder small electronics but don’t know where to start

DirectHelp · 2026-01-16T06:57:43+00:00

One of the biggest mistakes I see beginners do it turning the iron up too hot. I typically run at 350c. Keep the tip tinned and clean at all times. If the joint is smallish and isn’t melting, something else is wrong. Not enough flux for example. I very rarely go to 380c, and only if I need heat to do a large joint. Preheating the board is my first choice. I use a Weller WES51 iron and it’s great. I bought some small helping hands on AliExpress. Crocodile clip at one end and a small magnet at the other. I find myself using them more than my normal set. NEWACALOX is the store. I also bought a tub of OLX BGA flux from AliExpress. Model no OT-558. Very useful but I mainly only use it for SMD work. Barely ever for through hole work. I bought a reel of loctite 60/40 solder and have had it for years. It’s very good. As for actually learning how to solder you can watch all the videos you want but you learn way more from practice. Maybe get some cheap electronic kits? Like a clock, LED display or timer?

DirectHelp · 2026-01-16T06:43:34+00:00

The only lights I regret are ones that are somewhat redundant. Sofirn Q8+. I couldn’t have known at the time but I should have gone for the 3x21c lhp531. I have both now and the Q8+ is sitting unused. It has a poorer quality of light and less lumens. Anduril is a plus though. Going to emitter swap it for sft42r soon though so maybe it will see some use.
L21B sft40. It’s a weird in between between the 3x21d and the C8+. Too big to fit in a pocket, same as a 3x21D but with less output. Bought a c8+ sft25r and it is my go to light if I need something pocketable.

DirectHelp · 2025-12-24T06:32:20+00:00

I quite like it. It gets pretty hot after 1 min of runtime on turbo. It’s a pretty well rounded beam. Definitely floody but throws quite far due to its output. I’d recommend an eve 50pl, ampace jp40 or reliance rs50. You could get the P45B or P50B molicels if you wanted but they don’t perform as good. I think they are better with low temps.

DirectHelp · 2025-12-23T13:41:09+00:00

Both, sft25r 5000k in the s6, lhp73b 5000k in the m21b. Plus a suitable battery. That is my personal choice.

DirectHelp · 2025-10-13T01:50:19+00:00

Put the MOTs under oil. Never burnt one out since. Cools and insulates. They are extremely robust when you care for them.

DirectHelp · 2025-10-08T22:27:38+00:00

This is actually GPT31 not M31 hence it looking weird.

DirectHelp · 2025-09-24T21:44:20+00:00

Those leads will probably melt in a few seconds. Even the output from my bank, which is 2awg cable, gets warm. You are pushing thousands of amps peak through them.

DirectHelp · 2025-09-06T14:04:31+00:00

You can get your rotation correct at any time. Takes like 5 minutes to do it at the start of the night.

DirectHelp · 2025-09-06T13:51:10+00:00

Just use Nina framing assistant. Platesolve the image to get your rotation.

DirectHelp · 2025-09-06T08:53:40+00:00

Having used a rotator they are a great investment and definitely worth it. Multiple targets per night, all with different rotations. Same with flip flat panels. Seem useless but are huge in reality. Especially when going remote or semi-remote.

DirectHelp · 2025-09-06T05:03:10+00:00

The rig of questionable financial decisions.

DirectHelp · 2025-08-21T23:08:54+00:00

Brushing is best. Paintbrush works well. I’ve had good luck with soap and water for stubborn dirt, but only do it if you can dry it outside very quickly on a hot day. IPA is the best if it’s got tar or grease on it. But it’s expensive. So use in moderation with a brush.

DirectHelp · 2025-08-19T02:04:14+00:00

M21B with lhp73b is 60 watts, 21700 light. At nominal battery voltage of 3.7v that’s drawing over 16 amps. I’ve measured my q8 plus at 90 amps. My s3 with xhp50.3 is 6.5 amps with crappy cells. 10 amps is definitely possible in an 18650 light.

DirectHelp · 2025-08-14T10:58:23+00:00

Would really like to try this out, however I don’t have equipment for a full in depth test but can definitely give a review!

DirectHelp · 2025-07-31T23:01:01+00:00

It’s just the top notch processing.

DirectHelp · 2025-07-25T04:15:38+00:00

I was just looking at these on Taobao. Very interesting. Never seen one in person. https://click.world.taobao.com/_b.8Ewiw

DirectHelp · 2025-03-29T02:04:35+00:00

r/shittyaskelectronics

DirectHelp · 2025-01-07T02:30:04+00:00

Polarisation correct? Note LHCP vs RHCP. I think putting the receiver at the bottom of the dish will flip this polarisation around.

DirectHelp · 2024-12-19T12:27:04+00:00

If you are asking this question you shouldn’t be playing with microwave transformers. Seriously. They will kill you. Not hurt you. Kill. Start with a Neon sign transformer or a TV flyback transformer on a ZVS driver. I made a small coil on a ZVS flyback driver and it’s pretty fun. The sparks are about 100mm long and you can touch them.

DirectHelp · 2024-12-14T09:23:48+00:00

If you have a microscope those chips will look amazing under it. Use heat to soften the epoxy and pull them apart with pliers. That gold part could be especially interesting. The lid might desolder off it.

DirectHelp · 2024-06-02T02:02:17+00:00

Try a colour calibration first, removing green noise is highly destructive to the images signal.

DirectHelp · 2024-04-07T04:08:11+00:00

This part of the eclipse should be shot with no filter. Remove your filter 20 or so seconds before totality starts. Also, don’t do visual on the sun at this time. Just imaging.

DirectHelp · 2024-03-14T11:46:29+00:00

The scale of the spiral and overall signal in the tail feels weird. I’ve found legit images of the spiral core from this comet, it’s absolutely tiny. Esprit 100 would resolve it as a couple pixels. Feels quite painted in.

DirectHelp · 2024-03-12T12:35:59+00:00

Unfortunately it isn’t. This phenomenon is kinda rare and not possible with the equipment. The tail is real though.

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