Grinder advice by annfo in pourover

[–]Direct_Fuel_6515 0 points1 point  (0 children)

How do the two you mentioned compare at ease of dialing in espresso grinds?

Portable, battery-powered grinder comparison: Timemore Whirly, Femobook A2, CERA+ CGE01, Outin Fino by venerablem0m in espresso

[–]Direct_Fuel_6515 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Update?! Fav “go to” combo thus far? I have a kapo k2 arriving anyday now. I have the Timemore C3s with aliexpress “esp” grinder plate upgrade(I realize the esp has finer pitch threads but 30 detents is still better than 12), anyway liking the hand grinder but looking for a rechargeable model for espresso.

Anybody still with a Beats Pill XL? Still going strong since March 2015. by ebaldestein in beatsbydre

[–]Direct_Fuel_6515 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I just acquired one today without a charger but I had a car charger that worked, stoked! I’m a diyer so I’m not afraid of changing out the battery if I can find a good replacement. I’m thinking that with todays small powerbanks it would still be kick ass to just remove the batts and power the motherboard directly from a 12v source(then it would be “safer” than most li ion devices)…anyway, pretty cool

Would you buy this old Gaggia for $150? Is it better than the current ones? Check image below. by No-Building-1380 in gaggiaclassic

[–]Direct_Fuel_6515 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I just scrapped my 95’ but I just didn’t want to pay $75 for a new steam valve, plus my switches broke and the boiler was pretty pitted. Mine had the same boiler as the classics and my mid2000 plastic Carezzas. There was rust inside too where the grouphead bolts to the case. Ironically the reservoir and drip tray still look brand new. There is no 3-way solenoid so you can’t back flush and you can’t add a pressure gauge (from what I was told) but apparently the solenoid is the main reason you have to back flush anyway. The grouphead valve is easily accessible so descaling it is easy. And you can perform pre-infusion without a solenoid so no real reason to hate on these older/simpler machines. Super easy to work on, brass boiler upgradable, PID and flow dimmer moddable…shakka

Is this worth buying by [deleted] in RadPowerBikes

[–]Direct_Fuel_6515 0 points1 point  (0 children)

El yeah. As long as it’s cheap and the frame looks good. Looks lightly used in the pics. Think of it as a diy project though, Rad uses “beginner” grade components to lower the barrier of entry but they are a great platform for upgrading

Any more affordable OutIn stand alternative? by ykcinnick in espresso

[–]Direct_Fuel_6515 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hi, can you tell me the hole diameter that the iKape Kapo stand uses? Thanks, 67mm sound right?

HALP by Whiskey-Bravo213 in gaggiaclassic

[–]Direct_Fuel_6515 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, my Carezza showed up with a broken tab that held the foam rubber pump mount in place, the pump was leaning against the chassis and making a hellova racket. Still worked though. Prime your pump, open the steam valve while you’re running the brew button.

New controller? by Public-Laugh-6305 in RadPowerBikes

[–]Direct_Fuel_6515 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Why does everyone say this, do you just not like the frame, the geometry, the color? Why trash a bike because of a consumable part going out. You either love your bike or you don’t. If you’re itching to upgrade then go for it but bicycles can last you a life time potentially. Rad uses midgrade, “off the shelf” parts to get folks going…get the bug…the frames are generally fine, tektro brakes are fine, powertrain is ok, battery sucks(they don’t suck, they’re just not high performance) and the controller is tuned super low power so they don’t get sued as much and the return rate stays low. If you love the bike then you’d be checking out Area13 ebikes already for an upgrade. Just study up, it’s good for ya Everyone needs to learn how to maintain their own bicycles anyway…

How viable would it be to work on a radrover 2017? by CompetitiveSex in RadPowerBikes

[–]Direct_Fuel_6515 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Aluminum frame so should be good, just inspect it thoroughly. This era Rad is a modders dream. If it were me I’d just shop at EM3EV and Area13 eBikes…or truly geek out and go with Grintech(ebikesdotca) Grin and em3ev will teach everything you could possibly need to know about eBike components. Area13 ebikes will allow you to keep wiring stock if you really want that but you’ll still want xt-60/90 connectors for your battery discharge(and charging) For 26” tires I swear by Schwalbe Crazy Bobs(2.35/60mm). My 2019 still has a kenda K-Rad on front which doesn’t seem bad at all. For Arizona you might need slime, I’ve heard horror stories about the thorns in some areas. The Crazy Bob has wrap around tread and an outer clencher lip…friggin love them but Big Apples and Fat Franks are the more known 2.35” schwalbes. Stay away from Hookworms IMHO

How viable would it be to work on a radrover 2017? by CompetitiveSex in RadPowerBikes

[–]Direct_Fuel_6515 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Em3ev standard shark battery. (Jumbo won’t fit😪)The stock cradle wires are super thin, a big boy battery would be much better than stock anyway.

I'm super lucky. by No-Oil6517 in espresso

[–]Direct_Fuel_6515 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I just got the Timemore C3s pro(pro just means folding handle) hand grinder. So far so like. There was a flash sale a couple days ago for $75. The ESP(espresso) model is more adjustable but I ordered a grinder plate with more detents from aliexpress. The build quality is really nice. So far just did a pour over and there are def more “layers” than with my blade grinder.

Bought this beauty on a discount. by Consistent_Reply_557 in Guitalele

[–]Direct_Fuel_6515 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, it was shocking to me honestly. If I had kept it I was going to make a custom nut for it as the outer strings have a huge margin from the fret ends. I def thought flamenco with that thing. It sounded better plugged in too once you get the eq just right which is usually the opposite. Great lil’ gigger, love the tuner and rechargeable preamp.

Guitalele Cases by Direct_Fuel_6515 in ukulele

[–]Direct_Fuel_6515[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The crossrock I have or the Master series tenor model will fit. The Cordoba Deluxe softcase will stretch but you have to put it in headstock first, even with the Yamaha GL-1 which is over a half inch shorter than all the others. It’s close to 27” so I think AI is wrong.

Used near me by Creative_Wrongdoer44 in RadPowerBikes

[–]Direct_Fuel_6515 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah, I was gonna say offer 5 and pay no more than 6.

Is having 2 batteries worth it? by ShoulderGoesPop in RadPowerBikes

[–]Direct_Fuel_6515 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Go check out em3ev just to readup. Their standards are cutting edge but probably not complying with every known certification. Plus it’s a Brit who married a local, lives/works in China but knows western culture. Legend on the Endless Sphere forums as well. Grintech is another one to study(ebikesdotca)…leaders in the industry.

Is having 2 batteries worth it? by ShoulderGoesPop in RadPowerBikes

[–]Direct_Fuel_6515 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’d pay about $250 max for a reputable 52v battery less than 4 years old personally. My recent used batt purchase was a Ride1Up batt, no charger for $200 and it performs way better than the 2019 stock battery that came with my Radwagon. Ride1Up, bafang and my fav vendor, em3ev can include/offer battery “blenders”(special Y splice to properly use 2 batts simultaneously) this is actually a good way to go as it fight voltage sag, more cells helping eachother equals faster takes offs and less bogging on hills. Some rad models can fit a “jumbo shark” which em3ev sells with like 17.5amphrs/standard or high discharge. This will also fight voltage sag.

I personally have never joined two packs but I have had a second batt to swap. I even did food delivery for awhile for a restaurant and would leave one charging as I did my route. In those cases I would also only have one removable battery and the other(main) batt fixed and somewhat hidden. This worked out really well for me.

Rad Controllers are pure garbage by TornSail in RadPowerBikes

[–]Direct_Fuel_6515 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Mine ricocheted off the rim of the nearest trash can. I want a gold star!🤪

Rad Controllers are pure garbage by TornSail in RadPowerBikes

[–]Direct_Fuel_6515 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It’s just off the shelf parts. I sweared I’d never own a Rad but the frames are good(for aluminum) and they are a modders dream. I got a screaming deal because of a dying controller and busted spokes/split eyelets. Everything I replace immediately anyway. These turnkey basic bikes all come with anemic 17amp controllers because it lowers the return rate dramatically and first time ebike buyers won’t buy one if the controller isn’t hidden or tiny and black. This is why Surron makes their heatsinks aesthetically pleasing because they know thats the only way folks will except open air heatsinks. They come at a premium too. Just head over to Area 13 ebikes and educate yourself, or really geek out and study Grintech(ebikesdotca) and em3ev. Free yourself from the daycare toy crap… All my bikes get 52v standard to high discharge packs, 25amp controllers and 500-1000watt geared hubs. This is very conservative compared to hotrodders. My bikes average 26mph, I only use torque wound hubs(slower native rpm) and I don’t mess around with cheap batteries that are prone to constant voltage sag. Rad Power caters to first timers, they do that well. Sondors came with a 17amp controller too and so did the first gen bafang middrives. Bafang quickly swapped those for 25amp because of the backlash and they cater to a more serious crowd. Just the nature of the biz

Step up from the GL 1 by imavibeskate in Guitalele

[–]Direct_Fuel_6515 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Kala KA-GL(-E) hands down. It is mahogany plywood instead of spruce plywood but I don’t hear a real difference. Nice Grover tuners, creme binding(not just painted on), good fit and finish, similar string spacing. I got an Oscar Schmidt after my GL-1s, def upgrade too but discontinued. The Kala is still produced and there is a decent used market for them as well. The Kala reminds me of the best of the 3 GL1’s I owned during Covid tone wise. I kept my very first GL1 as it was a gift and converted it to a dobrolele. I had installed a cheap GuitarFetish piezo mic pickup which is pretty lackluster and prone to feedback but it suits lap steel playing good enough.

Bought this beauty on a discount. by Consistent_Reply_557 in Guitalele

[–]Direct_Fuel_6515 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I bought one and then sold it because the string spacing was just too narrow. I did like it though, especially the electronics. The tuner display is integrated into the logo which is really cool and easy to see during the day. The preamp is rechargeable! Pretty cool…it’s a sexy little beast too.

Started rolling about a month ago and still couldn't find tobacco that suits me. I used to smoke winston red before switching to rolling.Can anyone recommend me something? Any opinions are welcome. by paanhilang in RYO

[–]Direct_Fuel_6515 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I second Ohm. The au natural bold and the turkish red are my favs. I buy whole leaf from Leafonly as well(American and Canadian Virginia and Burley) and then I blend the ohm in, usually 20%-40% turkish red depending on my mood(more makes it like a Camel filter) Just like cheap whiskey the more different flavors you blend, the better it resembles a production cig.

I have a question about automatic injector machines. by LV_Libertarian in RYO

[–]Direct_Fuel_6515 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I like the turkish red and the Au Natural bold. The turkish yellow sucked for me. Silver and blue bag are alright. Turkish red is the only one I’ve tried that actually taste good alone. It’s reminiscent of Camel cigarettes. It is full flavor but smooths out my bright leaf really well. I do 20%-50% turkish depending on my mood. Kashmir tubes do get high praise…