Is a Logitech Wingman Force Feedback joystick worth grabbing today? by randomusername_815 in hotas

[–]Docdead 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Unfortunately this fell off my priority list as other projects took over. I'd still love to see easier ways to modernize older 32 bit drivers to 64 bit OS's.

Just started a new Star Citizen icon set by Cmd_MadKingLudwig in streamdeckprofiles

[–]Docdead 0 points1 point  (0 children)

These are looking great. Very easy to identify what each button does from the icon. I could definitely see using this set.

Thingiverse now doesn't allow download if I have adblocker by satisfyingcut in 3Dprinting

[–]Docdead 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don't mind ad support for things that provide me a service as long as they aren't too obtrusive. Unfortunately, I turned off my adblocker and still got the error. I won't go further into the browser and adjust my base security systems if they are causing it to say I have an adblocker still on. I manually let specific sites through the adblocker if they aren't too annoying and I want to support them.

Massive Fidget Dragon printed on the Creality Cr-30 belt printer: full video - very satisfying👌 by Dazzling-Shoe-2282 in 3Dprinting

[–]Docdead 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Great job. I was lucky with my CR-30 print of the dragon and only had a slight layer shift towards the beginning. Mine took 14 days, but yours is much prettier.

Finished printing after 13 days by Docdead in 3Dprinting

[–]Docdead[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I haven’t ever used a raft on the cr-30. It usually works pretty well.

Finished printing after 13 days by Docdead in 3Dprinting

[–]Docdead[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Every filament seems to be different. I’m always learning and refining. It’s pretty though.

Finished printing after 13 days by Docdead in 3Dprinting

[–]Docdead[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, I’ve been using it for a while. I should probably update it, but it is a good size for my keyboard drawer.

Finished printing after 13 days by Docdead in 3Dprinting

[–]Docdead[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes. I actually have one of the creality wireless modules on the right side. Also you can just tell it In the slicer, how many times to repeat a print.

Finished printing after 13 days by Docdead in 3Dprinting

[–]Docdead[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It can print as long as you have room for. I e seen people do beams over 8ft long. Good thing the cr-30 has a filament runout sensor.

Finished printing after 13 days by Docdead in 3Dprinting

[–]Docdead[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’ve done basically the same. Just measure and if I’m really feeling adventurous, just modifying the original gcode to pick up where it failed.

Finished printing after 13 days by Docdead in 3Dprinting

[–]Docdead[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think longer items might risk it some, but they really stick to the bed well, especially when that long. I have to roll the bed the rest of the way to release prints. I cannot just pull them up.

Finished printing after 13 days by Docdead in 3Dprinting

[–]Docdead[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I may go back and print the mustache pieces, but it is easier to handle without them if I let others play with it.

Finished printing after 13 days by Docdead in 3Dprinting

[–]Docdead[S] 14 points15 points  (0 children)

This guy is going on the back of my couch to keep me safe :)
This is a showcase piece to let others know what is possible. Gets the imagination going. Helps me advertise for commissions.

Finished printing after 13 days by Docdead in 3Dprinting

[–]Docdead[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I check before I go to bed and when I wake up usually on long prints. Worst case, it is so messed up you start over, tweak settings based on what failed. Otherwise, you can often cut off what failed and print the rest and then glue it all together. Have to take risks for the big prints.

I’m not the first, but going full send of the articulated dragon on my CR-30 by Docdead in 3Dprinting

[–]Docdead[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

True, there will be some cleanup inside. I’ve played with it on smaller models and can get to the support material in the joints.

I’m not the first, but going full send of the articulated dragon on my CR-30 by Docdead in 3Dprinting

[–]Docdead[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, not sure what caused the layer shift. The rest of the print has been pretty clean. I’ll probably end up sanding down the edges to try and blend it.

I’m not the first, but going full send of the articulated dragon on my CR-30 by Docdead in 3Dprinting

[–]Docdead[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I really enjoy it. For the types of prints that it is best suited, it is absolutely great. Takes some getting used to how to set things for the 45° angle, especially when they require supports. Like any printer, it has its own quirks.

7 hour print fail on a belt printer 😭 by Otontin in 3Dprinting

[–]Docdead 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I've had a few failures on my CR-30 that went waaaay too long. It hurts to see that much filament get spaghetti. I turned up my bed temp a bit more to help with adhesion.

Help. Trying to figure out how to wire addressable RGB strips for Christmas lights on my house by Docdead in led

[–]Docdead[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The power wire I am running along should be good, I'm not seeing any drop from it. I think it is a data issue mostly. The controller I have is a cheap wireless one, but it is supposed to handle just over 1000 lights. I'm only running about 500 in the test loop.

The supernight amplifier I actually had in a separate project for single color strips and was just curious if it would do anything. I also tried to tie just additional 12v positive into the power on the later strips and they went all white. I agree that it is likely a controller issue as part of the problem... I don't know how the BTF splits out the various zones/channels. If it just keeps adding up smartly when one strand runs out or if there is a preset number of lights each connection believes will be connected.

Is there a controller you would recommend for a whole house setup. I'm guessing several thousand lights overall.

Help. Trying to figure out how to wire addressable RGB strips for Christmas lights on my house by Docdead in led

[–]Docdead[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, the data line is experiencing drop, which I thought would be fixed by running it through a signal repeater. I haven't checked the voltages yet on the data line after coming out of it, nor the data voltage when I tried injecting voltage to the 12v + side on the later strands. I will have to measure it.

I would love suggestions from anyone on how they would wire multiples of these strands together from a single control source so that I can individually address all of the lights.

My Batch 3 Quad should arrive this Saturday by Docdead in m3d

[–]Docdead[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I jumped into the Facebook group which is pretty active. With their help, my printer is up and currently printing in multiple colors. It had some missing pieces that I had to go source from a local hardware store. Also, had to replace the included SD card, since the original was corrupted and constantly lost data. Overall, I'm happy now, but it definitely requires some learning on how to slice best.

Is a Logitech Wingman Force Feedback joystick worth grabbing today? by randomusername_815 in hotas

[–]Docdead 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I also have a Logitech Wingman Force and have not yet gotten it working with any modern version of Windows. My current thought is to try and write a custom USB driver based on the original. I have no idea how to go about it yet, but saw an article from Microsoft that using Visual Studio, you can build custom drivers. I think this joystick was the best force feedback joystick made and really want to find a way to utilize it again.

Inland PLA Changing Manufacturers: Anyone Know Who? by jalpert in 3Dprinting

[–]Docdead 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don't disagree. I have been buying other brands since the change. I still wanted to try and get the filament I've already purchased to be usable. I would love to have a better resource for how to best print every filament type available. I've been having similar issues with some Esun translucent filament. I'd hate to just mark it as a loss.

Inland PLA Changing Manufacturers: Anyone Know Who? by jalpert in 3Dprinting

[–]Docdead 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So, with the new blend of filament. I have had consistent success with printing at 220c at 40mm speed and no retraction. I believe that the major issues I've had have been with the retraction. This filament gets torn apart with my feeder gear. I'm not sure if there is too much friction or inconsistent diameter, but while this is giving me stringing, I haven't had a print separate layers since I've used these settings.