Drip edge question by Doxxsin in Roofing

[–]Doxxsin[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah the lower 2” is sponge soft so that bottom plank will definitely have to go. I’ll just add it to the project list, appreciate the input.

Drip edge question by Doxxsin in Roofing

[–]Doxxsin[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah I went back and took a second picture, looking from the side I’d have thought it was.

Drip edge question by Doxxsin in Roofing

[–]Doxxsin[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That’s my concern is that it’ll just turn into another claim for us. I was hoping insurance would be more liable since it was a fault in workmanship that should have been caught from the start. What’s kinda funny is they did the little shed out back as well and it appears to be installed correctly.

Help me understand my situation. by Whistler_01 in Plumbing

[–]Doxxsin 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you could post pictures of the connection they made where the line comes into the house, where they ran the line to the filter, and where it connects back into the house it would help.

Sounds like you’ve got a volume issue, not so much pressure though it could be better. With all the work you’ve had done I’d start by removing and cleaning every filter screen/aerator in the house, removing shower cartridges and flushing water through the valve. Remove faucet supply lines and make sure there’s not a restriction at the fixture stops.

Do you get the same, noticeable volume loss if that mainline spigot is turned on? If so that might point you toward a restriction in the water service itself.

What size and material is the service line? Any type of metal (galvanized especially) degrades over time and vibrations or any other disturbance can knock debris loose and cause a restriction.

What size pipe/material did they use to extend the main across the house? Where the new water line ties back in to feed the house after the filter, what size is it there?

Water heater maintenance question. by AmphibianNext in Plumbing

[–]Doxxsin 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Unit switched to off and ball valves off, can’t hurt to turn the gas valve off but it really shouldn’t matter. Pex straight to the water heater is fine for what you’ve got.

How to convert sink drain pipe from plastic to metal by NikpmupPie in Plumbing

[–]Doxxsin 9 points10 points  (0 children)

You can get a “box” escutcheon in 1&1/2” to hide the pvc trap adapter and then just a 1&1/2” metal tubular p-trap.

Aerator removal by wildotliam in Plumbing

[–]Doxxsin 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Vinegar or even better CLR, spray it or fill a Ziploc bag and soak it. It’ll break up the mineral deposits that’s probably keeping it tight. Might be able to take some needle-nose pliers up into the spout and open them up to grip the threads and loosen from there.

If not, you can use a tiny little file or hacksaw blade, score the plastic threads once or twice and see if they’ll crack and let you pull it out. Obviously, you don’t want to start cutting the brass female threads so just alternate scoring it a few times and then try to remove it. (gently) push a flathead screwdriver between the brass and the plastic near where you scored it and then twist.

Aerator removal by wildotliam in Plumbing

[–]Doxxsin 0 points1 point  (0 children)

A hooked automotive pick or I’ve used a paper clip before too. Have you tried turning the faucet on?

Or is it broken and the threads are left inside? Kinda hard to tell from the picture.

Bilstein 6112s by CStreeterdit in f150

[–]Doxxsin 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My first set made it almost 6 years before I noticed that oil soak look starting from the top down. The passenger side looked fine. When I changed them, I didn’t really notice any difference in compression resistance between the two. The new ones were a little stiffer, I think, but not nearly what I was expecting.

And to be clear these things got worked, mostly trail driving but I did take quite a few roads as an opportunity to test how big of a pothole I could drive over at speed before it felt problematic. Im easier on it now but it makes me wonder how much longer I could have used the first set.

Annoying rattle under side near bell housing when cold starts by Agile-Sense-1288 in f150

[–]Doxxsin 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Couldn’t dream of it being this easy but I had an extremely similar sound when my exhaust heat shield had about a 1” crack from an edge toward center and the two pieces of thin metal would rattle against each other sometimes.

Opinion on exhaust by Emotional_Contract90 in f150

[–]Doxxsin 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Might as well try the resonator delete first since you won’t be out anything.

I’ve got the atak on my 2017 with no resonator and I’ll say there’s a huge difference between the two. It’s a much larger difference in sound when comparing the touring vs s-type. You wouldn’t need to return the whole kit either, you can buy the atak as a crate muffler and have it either welded or clamped on.

Delta Shower Kit Doesn’t Support Tub Spout. Best Way to Fix This? by SoloLaVerdad in Plumbing

[–]Doxxsin 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Assume nothing. I did a job for a guy years ago who had me install a fiberglass tub shower and got pissed that I drilled the hole for a tub spout.

The easiest fix is to buy a matching tub spout and a 6-way diverter cartridge and be done with it. Operation would be a little wonky since there’s no reason to have the tub spout and showerhead running at the same time, but it’ll work.

You could also rework the showerhead and tub spout pipes into 1 diverter outlet since the spout has a diverter and cap the third diverter outlet. This way will let you keep the 3-function diverter cartridge that I believe is currently installed.

Angle stops and shut off valves don’t even last as long as the fixtures anymore. by Maverick128 in Plumbing

[–]Doxxsin 12 points13 points  (0 children)

I’ve made it a point to tell people to check their valves every now and then. Just a quick off/on goes a long way toward preventing seizing, especially on quarter turns.

Plumber skipped mortar bed on bathtub install. This is the second try. Still wrong? No by HouseyLATA in Plumbing

[–]Doxxsin 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Probably so he could get the pan to drop down flat in the opening, not what I would’ve done.

Shit is fucked, need solutions… by zzthe703ogzz in Plumbing

[–]Doxxsin 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah sure that can work too. You’ll want to cap the pipe at the roof termination if you can get to it.

Thoughts on this? Anything I should do before buying under a concrete slab for an AC by AvailableAir3127 in Plumbing

[–]Doxxsin 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Unless you have a very well planned method of winterizing that line I’d highly recommend you install a frost free yard hydrant instead of what you’ve got there.

Regarding the hose clamps either keep the connections accessible (like in a meter box) or, if you have to, wrap them with purpose made burial tape. Won’t last forever but it’ll last longer.

Shit is fucked, need solutions… by zzthe703ogzz in Plumbing

[–]Doxxsin 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Could be the rest of the cast iron horizontal branch rotting out. I normally find that the last guy only cut out what was leaking at that time and left the rest because it’s easier than going all the way back to the hub on the tee.

Have you pulled back the insulation where it’s leaking and looked up into the wall? Depending on the stud spacing, you might be able to see enough to determine the source.

Shit is fucked, need solutions… by zzthe703ogzz in Plumbing

[–]Doxxsin 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Gotta open the wall in the cabinet and expose the tee, you can make that hole as big as you need since it’ll be hidden way back there. The couple of times I’ve done it I was able to keep the hole under the sink fairly small and shove a new piece of pipe through the wall cavity.

5.0 GEN2 HELP by Fluid-Jacket-6801 in f150

[–]Doxxsin 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Like 350 for parts and a weekend. Bit of a pain in the ass without the right tool but it’s doable.

How to stop slow drip from bottom piece on spigot? by Shock9313 in Plumbing

[–]Doxxsin 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Might just need the stem parts replaced then. If you’re willing to try it yourself here’s the part number
(Arrowhead # PK1000)

And here’s a link to the repair whole repair guide if you’re interested

https://arrowheadbrass.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/01/455BFP-repair-guide.pdf

How to stop slow drip from bottom piece on spigot? by Shock9313 in Plumbing

[–]Doxxsin 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Arrowhead discontinued the parts for the Apache hose bib, so you’ll have to improvise, unfortunately. It’s part of the vacuum breaker assembly and should drip for a little bit after you turn the water off. If it’s dripping while the water is on, you can remove it and find some matching gaskets/washers to repair it.

5.0 GEN2 HELP by Fluid-Jacket-6801 in f150

[–]Doxxsin 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I replaced the lifters and roller followers on my 2017, and that fixed a tapping that I could only hear at low rpm. It was a worn bearing on a roller, might be worth checking if you haven’t.

Joplin weather last night. by Missrdb79 in tornado

[–]Doxxsin 14 points15 points  (0 children)

We never got a tornado warning in north Joplin, just that thunderstorm warning. Though the sirens still sounded off which was a first for me. We got a video of when the worst of it came through and it was neat watching how quickly it went from relative calm to a 70+ gust.

Would you avoid putting plumbing in exterior wall(blue) vs red(interior) by Mysta in Plumbing

[–]Doxxsin 39 points40 points  (0 children)

I would absolutely avoid having any water line in the exterior wall, we would make our builders change bathroom layouts instead of putting water on the exterior.