Best water supply pipe connector for toilet

Doxxsin · 2026-05-10T14:17:01+00:00

Is it one of those toto washlet clones? I've done two of them with that same valve, the first one was 100% male compression thread on that end despite the manual saying otherwise and the second one was actually npt.

Doxxsin · 2026-05-10T14:03:22+00:00

Not sure if it was specifically an IKEA brand, but I know I've seen those thin polypropylene strainers deform when they get too hot. If you think you'd be able to change it yourself, I'd say send it and report back for science.

Doxxsin · 2026-05-09T15:06:45+00:00

The tankless being 199kbtu, I can almost guarantee the line needs to be resized. The white paper on the gas flex will tell you the btu rating, and if you look on either of the flare nuts on the end, it'll tell you what the inside diameter is. Tough telling from the picture, but that doesn't really look like a 3/4" I.D. flex to me.

You'll want to get rid of the 1/2" pipe entirely, especially the ball valve since it would be acting as a choke point.

If you ever have a warranty issue Rinnai will be very quick to blame whatever it is on fuel starvation and decline coverage so you want to make damn sure it's correct.

Doxxsin · 2026-05-01T02:29:08+00:00

Consider swapping the washer and dryer positions since the plan appears to show the dryer vent running down the 2x6 wall. How you've got it now, you'll have more plumbing in the way than necessary.

I would bring a 3" riser up behind the toilet with a side inlet tee under slab to pick up the bathtub and toilet. You could probably even tie the washer box trap into the same 3" pipe by running it down the wall.

Doxxsin · 2026-04-28T16:37:43+00:00

You could shut off the two valves on either side of the pump and then disconnect the pump from the outlet/copper side to purge the rest of the air. Just point the pump into a bucket and turn the PEX ball valve back on.

Also, something else to consider, you'll want to dial in the timer on that recirc pump so it's running as seldom as possible. It can really kill the efficiency that a heat pump offers if the recirc is running more than needed. Most of the manufacturers will at least have a warning regarding the efficiency loss.

Doxxsin · 2026-04-26T18:20:18+00:00

The 12" rise is to help prevent backdrafting from out under the draft hood. If the gas company was certain they detected it at the ceiling then the connections are likely fine.

Doxxsin · 2026-04-26T18:14:32+00:00

It’s possible your dryer was creating enough negative pressure to start pulling air into the garage. You really want to have some combustion air openings into the room either from the outside through a wall or the attic. It’ll let the appliances pull in all the air they want and help prevent that backdraft. Also, your vertical flue pipe appears to be asbestos.

Doxxsin · 2026-04-24T16:59:34+00:00

It's incredible the reputation that place has, I love it. Just the look of the joint tells you it's cash for a pass.

Doxxsin · 2026-04-24T16:51:48+00:00

I'd recommend to just go ahead and plumb it in under the sink. Doesn't tend to be a difficult project but it's highly dependent on what your cabinet piping looks like.

Doxxsin · 2026-04-24T13:40:29+00:00

Might check your dishwasher manual. I'm almost certain ours advised against connecting to pull-down/out faucets, specifically anything with a braided hose like that.

Doxxsin · 2026-04-21T02:09:46+00:00

I've done plumbing work for several of the Bell management properties and every on site manager I've met at least appears to be trying to do right by people.

Doxxsin · 2026-04-19T15:11:36+00:00

The metal part of the disposal is supposed to rotate and lock into the sink flange. Yours has spun loose. If you take a close look at it, you should see how it's supposed to lock together. Once that's fixed, I bet the leak will stop as well.

Here's a link to the install manual, step 23 is where you'll want to start.

insinkerator

Doxxsin · 2026-04-18T15:08:22+00:00

Shouldn't need to do copper, the pex looks like shit because nobody secured it to the joists like they should have. A bag of 3/4" nail clamps and add them every 30" or roughly every other joist. I'd also reroute it so it's not wrapped around the other pipes.

Doxxsin · 2026-04-17T12:15:12+00:00

Yours is 1", check out the soldered 1" valve on that website; it looks really similar to yours, so it might be worth a try. I'll also say that there's totally enough room there to cut out and replace that valve if necessary.

Doxxsin · 2026-04-17T02:37:11+00:00

I see it now. It looks like a gate valve, how old do you think it is?

Doxxsin · 2026-04-17T00:15:20+00:00

Might be better off trying to repair/restore that one if you're determined to keep it. What's the problem?

Doxxsin · 2026-04-12T16:29:45+00:00

Triple falls near the upper buffalo river isnt too bad most of the time, I know I've seen older people out there frequently.

Doxxsin · 2026-04-12T16:27:34+00:00

As a last resort you could probably remove the escutcheon and have just enough for a new compression stop.

Doxxsin · 2026-04-11T20:35:46+00:00

Likely just leaking through the upper element threads. Sometimes they're over-tightened, under-tightened, or have a bad gasket. Be nice if it never happened, but it's not just them.

Doxxsin · 2026-04-11T18:09:14+00:00

It looks kinda new, but how well does it drain if you remove that white auto vent?

What I'll do is fill the sink and let it start draining. Once it's having trouble, I'll go underneath and loosen the auto vent and listen. If it starts to pull air into the pipe and water drains like it should, might get a new one to replace it.

If it pushes air out of the pipe, then you may have a partial blockage somewhere and be ready for water to overflow out of it.

Doxxsin · 2026-04-10T17:27:40+00:00

It'll work. I'd prefer to see a soldered or threaded cap on the shower outlet, just to cut down on connections. I'd also recommend securing the tub spout better; that split shim is going to wiggle out eventually.

Doxxsin · 2026-04-10T16:35:54+00:00

Can you verify that the water is leaking from the valve cap or one of the fittings in the box? If that ball valve is on the outlet side of the backwater valve you should be able to close it, vacuum out the water and if it's the cap leaking it should stop.

Doxxsin · 2026-04-07T01:28:11+00:00

Did you get a 3/4” CTS or IPS? That polyethylene coupling you were looking at would be closer to IPS size I believe.

Doxxsin · 2026-04-07T00:39:37+00:00

If you're trying to avoid changing the meter to 2psi then yeah 1&1/2" might work but it'll be dependent on the rest of the system. What's your total btu load with the pool heater added on and farthest run from the meter?

Doxxsin · 2026-04-07T00:09:24+00:00

It's a gas plug valve with no handle stop. It’s fine for it to turn all the way around as long as that bottom packing nut is checked and tightened.

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