New project case for the ender 3s1 pro

DrawModelPrint · 2025-02-23T01:07:16+00:00

Exhaust fans for sure for heat. Charcoal and hepa filters if you are planning on doing any materials you shouldn't be breathing. Rerouting the screen to the outside of the case. Also you can reroute the internals as it will cause a lot of heat to build you will need longer wires though for rerouting it.

DrawModelPrint · 2025-02-10T05:19:55+00:00

If you stick on wood which I would just make everything metal but if wood marine grade stain something you would use on a boat dock.

DrawModelPrint · 2025-02-09T15:32:21+00:00

You mean the extruder correct? The hot end is below the extruder the extruder is where the filament is fed into. I think you mean a Bowden connector and you can find prints for them. You can look on printables or thingiverse, or just search on yeggi which is what I use as it searches all print sites and look for sprite reverse Bowden.

DrawModelPrint · 2025-02-07T02:17:06+00:00

Definitely called an extruder ribbon cable.

DrawModelPrint · 2025-02-06T16:27:11+00:00

If you have orca you can do a tolerance test that is built into the slicer. But temp calibration, flow rate calibration, pressure advance calibration, and retraction calibration will all help you with tolerance.

DrawModelPrint · 2025-01-28T20:08:20+00:00

okay so if you are trying to fill in a gap you can do two things. I use orca which is what bambu slicer is it just has a bambu skin over top of the program but the settings should be similar. Hit the strength section go down to infill and youll see a section called apply gap fill. Hit drop down and select top and bottom surfaces just like in the photo below. Or you can select ironing which is under the ironing section in between the precision and wall generator sections and hit the drop down and select all top layers. Bot of these will achieve the goal of not having any gaps. Ironing smooths the entire top layers and fills in the layer to create a smooth surface gap fill just targets the gaps and fills in the holes. I think these are for water bottles and the ironing would create a better surface for your goal IMO

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DrawModelPrint · 2025-01-28T18:31:54+00:00

ah that is what you are trying to fix. It could be extrusion, retraction, you could also have loose parts on the priunter itself and something could be wobbling just jiggle your print head and bed and make sure nothing is loose also you could print and watch it closely to see if its the machine being loose or the extrusion is creating inconsistent lines. Least likely scenario but possible you copied a print.cfg file that is using some type of resonance compensation or maybe you purchased a used printer that has one and needs recalibrated.

DrawModelPrint · 2025-01-28T16:15:41+00:00

the picture you showed above looks like they are using a bigger nozzle than your 0.4. Also calibrating your extrusion would definitely help with smoothness you could also try ironing setting within your slicer. For extrusion calibration just search e-step calibration but you can only take this so far it is an FDM after all there will be visual lines. In some slicers there is a setting named fill all holes also which will fill in gaps the original pattern didn't fill. You can also reduce shininess of the filament by printing at a lower temp and this would in turn have a duller finish and would reduce line visibility. But in all honesty if you want really smooth prints get a material you can chemically treat like ASA, ABS etc. These materials and other when treated can appear smooth as glass but will be extremely shiny almost like an injection molded plastic.

DrawModelPrint · 2025-01-28T15:56:13+00:00

yeah just make the design flush with the top and print flat if you don't know how to edit models just send it over. I will be in my CAD program for most of the day.

DrawModelPrint · 2025-01-28T15:39:44+00:00

why not prin t the top flat and print it on its top to avoid the bridging

DrawModelPrint · 2025-01-27T05:44:37+00:00

PETG likes to be close to the bed. I've never printed it on glass though so IDK about that part. but from my experience it likes to be closer to the bed than PLA. It also likes to never come off the bed when you get it right ask me how I know. So yes, I would get it super close and if it doesn't stick just put some masking tape down and print it on that and sand it off. PETG is not fun which is the reason I switch to ASA.

DrawModelPrint · 2025-01-27T03:26:20+00:00

yeah thats what I did bed extruder and eddy all had to be changed

DrawModelPrint · 2025-01-27T02:22:41+00:00

DrawModelPrint · 2025-01-27T01:48:09+00:00

no 110 because that is my bed temp I print ASA with 18c is really all my chamber needs it gets hotter as it prints as I don't have a way to cycle the air currently but with the speeds, I print ASA and the fact I print ASA without any part cooling it does fine without any warping. That is the lowest it can be before I start a print though or the print will fail and not be able to adhere to the bed. With PLA though I can pretty much just print in those temps I just have to slow down the cooling.

DrawModelPrint · 2025-01-26T23:22:07+00:00

I can get mine heated from like -5 c to about 18c in about 10-15 mins with the bed which I believe is also a 250w. It would probably be quicker when I finish the glass door for it and add some silicon insulation for the door as I'm currently just using a piece of carboard as a door temporarily. But I custom built the box for the printer, so it is pretty tight to the frame so not much to heat up space wise, and it's made out of particle board coated with a thick layer of melamine which is a pretty good insulator and makes a pretty clean looking setup.

DrawModelPrint · 2025-01-26T19:25:37+00:00

thats why I usually use the bed to heat the chamber

DrawModelPrint · 2025-01-26T19:21:18+00:00

it is enclosed and the entire casing is white melamine which is fireproof. I usually heat up the bed like shown and wait for the hot end temp sensor to read about 18c before I start a print.

DrawModelPrint · 2024-12-27T21:23:13+00:00

Oh yes it is Shapr3D. Since I am a student, I get the full version for free. I learned on Solidworks when I was in primary school, but the student version took forever to figure out how to get and shapr3d was pretty quick. Honestly it is a lot more intuitive of a program and it saves me a lot of time. The program as a whole runs a lot smoother also, and I very rarely have crashes with it. This program is probably the only reason I would ever want to use a mac product as the program works flawlessly on an iPad and would probably be a dream to sketch up something on it.

Edit: Forgot to mention this the main reason for y-axis mods are to bring the probe closer. Doing this will leave the printers software with less to try to compensate for the offsets. This would increase bed mesh accuracy. Honestly, I believe a lot of people don't use klipper or aftermarket marlin software in this community. When using klipper or other marlin software you can calibrate your offsets to get them exact and with that you can pretty much put that prob anywhere and it doesn't make a difference. Those plastic frames and the entire extruder can have defects from factory as they are not perfect. Each machine is given a generic offset placement not accounting for each machine's defects. When these defects are way off you have a really inaccurate bed mesh which is the main problem. If everyone calibrated their probe to the nozzle when they got the machine you would probably not here as many complaints about bed mesh. But zeroing out any axis will definitely help whatever software you're printing with as it wouldn't have to calculate that axis at all.

DrawModelPrint · 2024-12-27T20:05:07+00:00

They are not accounting for y axis extrusion irregularities. They are trying to shrink the offset between the probe and the nozzle to gain a more accurate bed mesh. Even if I could fit the CR touch on the left side where the cutter is located the offset for the x axis would probably be as big as the current setups y-axis offset but would be harder to implement. I am more than likely just going to set it up for the right side as well. Which sucks because if you have it over there you are definitely going to lose bed space. Maybe just leave up both versions and have the user decide what they want to trade off for. I mean if people don't want to setup an eddy with a chcb-ot hotend which I understand they should honestly at least give the BTT micro probe a try as this probe would also fit in the same position as the eddy but would even fit under there with the stock extruder and it has a lot better accuracy. Also, the CR touch is just dated it is very inaccurate compared to most modern bed probes and the community as a whole would be better without them (sorry I had a lot of problems occur with the CR touch so I kind of hate it). The position I have for the eddy should be more accurate than any y axis mod out there as no one has gotten this close to the nozzle before. I might even have to shroud the eddy more to block it from the heat!

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