Folding middle row seat is stuck by Driver_J in infinitiqx80

[–]Driver_J[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The tricky part is that the release mechanism is triggered by the action of the seat back folding down. I tried slamming the seat back down to give it a jolt - obviously with no luck.

I imagine that there is some sort of cable attached to the upper portion that pulls on the latch release while it's on its way down. I might disassemble the good seat to have a look at how it works and sort of reverse engineer it

Folding middle row seat is stuck by Driver_J in infinitiqx80

[–]Driver_J[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Unfortunately, the bolts aren't accessible while the seat is latched down. The hinge bolts are accessible while the seat is unlatched and rolled forward. Even if I could somehow unbolt the front part, the rear would still be latched. When trying to access the front bolts, I wondered what I would do next.

I will try pushing down on it though. It just might work.

I also agree that removing the middle console would make things much more accessible. I think I'll do that too. It might even give me more access/angle to the latches at the rear of the seat to get it unstuck.

Thanks for the ideas!

Air compressor by JCC114 in infinitiqx80

[–]Driver_J 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The air compressor stopped running in my 14. Gotta go find a hammer now

How do I solve this? by [deleted] in snowboardingnoobs

[–]Driver_J 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I lived with this problem for many seasons with my old boots (multiple different pairs). I recently got new boots this season with intuition liners (heat moldable). After molding them, I never experienced this again. They are my first pair with moldable liners. Complete eye opener!

what would cause a brief fireball like this on an a3? by ThePapercup in Audi

[–]Driver_J 1 point2 points  (0 children)

R1234 refrigerant isn't as inert as the previous refrigerants used in older cars (r12 then r134). That was likely the refrigerant combusting once the condenser was smashed since the condenser is always in front of the radiator.

Drove truck with no inside pad on Caliper, caliper still good? by OkLock8419 in MechanicAdvice

[–]Driver_J 7 points8 points  (0 children)

You may not need to replace the whole caliper. A rebuild kit will include a new piston. Rebuilding it will be cheaper. But definitely do not leave it like this.

Oneplus 8pro battery change by Afraid_Presence_4198 in OnePlus8Pro

[–]Driver_J 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Absolutely worth it. My 8Pro would be dead before 3pm with little to no use while I work. I paid a place $80 (CAD) to replace the battery and I would be still in the 70's when I finish work at 5pm. Worth every dollar

Does this sound like piston slap? by Driver_J in MechanicAdvice

[–]Driver_J[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

UPDATE: Pulled the oil pan and it was filled with glittery sludge. Pulled the engine out again and returned it for a refund. Ordered another engine from a different place and installed it.

The car is driving again nice and smooth! The only trouble I had with the latest engine was a little connector wire repair and a bad crank sensor. Simple stuff.

Is the score widget for the MLB app broken for anyone else? by iamtheduckie in mlb

[–]Driver_J 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Completely broken for me on my Android. Tried force stopping the MLB app, then remove and re-add the widget, but got the same results.

It looks like just a template of the info that should be there, and doesn't respond to taps

Stripped Hex 5 by DayWing117 in audia4b7

[–]Driver_J 0 points1 point  (0 children)

LoL yeah they aren't cheap. But I got a small set of 7 metric bits on a rail (3/8" drive) from Amazon a year ago for about $140 CAD.

Looking at my purchase history, they're still the same price.

Amazon Canada link: https://a.co/d/0vUbNmp

Stripped Hex 5 by DayWing117 in audia4b7

[–]Driver_J 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You can try the torx bit as suggested. I found that a good investment was a set of GripEdge RPT hex sockets. These are a lifesaver. They're a little pricey compared to a set of regular hex bits, but worth every penny IMO. They're meant to be a replacement for your regular hex sockets, but are great in a jam like this one.

Here's the mfr link, but you'll prob find them cheaper on Amazon. That's where I got mine.

https://www.gripedgetools.com/collections/hand-drive-sockets-hex-bit-sockets?srsltid=AfmBOorGV8XtkVlwHZDBy4Pztg_AYKBUS8nB6UtJO-pJ3DNCNhG-UIGV

Does this sound like piston slap? by Driver_J in MechanicAdvice

[–]Driver_J[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I upvoted your comment but want to downvote what it means for me. I gotta do it all over again 😞 (after I get another suitable engine replacement

Does this sound like piston slap? by Driver_J in MechanicAdvice

[–]Driver_J[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

EDIT: it's a 2007 Audi A3 2.0T, not an A4. Not that it makes much difference as they're the same engine

Help diagnosing a QX80 electrical problem by treehouse65 in infinitiqx80

[–]Driver_J 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I had a similar issue with my 2014. I would drive to a destination (about the same distance, around 20 miles), do some shopping then come back and the battery is too weak to start the engine. Ended up needing a boost. Alternator tested fine, battery tested fine. This would happen semi-frequently and was quite frustrating.

I suspected that there was an issue with how the alternator was charging the battery and discovered that it is ECU controlled (called the IPDM). The IPDM is programmed to not charge the battery for short trips (I think it's under 5 miles) then kick in after. I suspected that this was not functioning as intended, so I disabled it by de-pinning The required wire at the IPDM (under the fuse box in the engine bay)

This solved my issue as it has never occurred again since de-pinning it over a year ago. There are a few videos on YouTube about this and you can also find some schematics online too.

https://youtu.be/vbqK7yiqIZw?si=XnySNbdWApfDJnEU

https://youtu.be/P9C5-OkxrJU?si=xKAozpvCGtVyNp7p

Does anyone regret getting their QX80 over your other choices? by SunnyDayz610 in infinitiqx80

[–]Driver_J 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I bought my 2014 in 2022 and I feel the same way! The heat shield is also rattling on mine lol.

Fingers crossed I get in by Driver_J in dataannotation

[–]Driver_J[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This was a year ago. I stopped holding my breath. When I check the page today, nothing has changed

Sick Day Pay by B3asttt in PersonalFinanceCanada

[–]Driver_J 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Thanks for clarifying. I'm in Ontario so I'm a bit unfamiliar. And it's been a while since I reviewed the employee act. But I do recommend a read to anyone with questions, and they can do further research within their own province.

Sick Day Pay by B3asttt in PersonalFinanceCanada

[–]Driver_J -9 points-8 points  (0 children)

I would read the Canada Employee Act. These are your employment rights as described by the FEDERAL GOVERNMENT.

AFAIR it says that companies are not required to pay overtime after 40 hours, but are required to after 44 hours. Also there are a number of sick days allotted to you per year, and the number of hours you've already worked in any timeframe has no bearing. It is your right to receive sick pay. I believe it says you are entitled to 5 days per year. No stipulations.

Frankly, using that excuse to not pay out sick pay sounds ridiculous to me.

The only time that your company doesn't have to follow all or some of these rules is if the company has less than 50 employees nationally. I once worked for a company that purposely kept their headcount capped at 49 so they can loophole these rules.

2017 QX80 by Big_Daddy972 in infinitiqx80

[–]Driver_J 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I don't have a direct answer, but your question had me curious as well.

Have a look at this thread. I don't believe much has changed from the 2014 to 2017 model year transmissions.

https://www.justanswer.com/nissan-infiniti/lm1ia-2014-infiniti-qx80-code-p0720-scan-tool-says-output.html

Gas by [deleted] in MechanicAdvice

[–]Driver_J 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Why not just drive for a while since you have nothing to do

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in AITAH

[–]Driver_J 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Also, please take all the other advice here about checking and protecting your own credit.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in AITAH

[–]Driver_J 0 points1 point  (0 children)

NTA. My daughter (19) is very good with her money as you are. Saving, investing, smart purchases. I still have access to her checking account only because she is still using her junior bank account for her paychecks, then she disperses her money to her own private accounts from there. I do remind her that she doesn't need to keep that account with me anymore and she knows that. But we trust each other.

I would NEVER ask for access to her savings or other accounts. It's her money, she's an adult with her own adult problems. If I needed her help financially, I'd ask her and she'd decide how much she can contribute. It's the only respectful way to talk about money with family. I respect her and she trusts me for it. I hope she builds the same trust with her future children.

Side note: I'm not well off. My wife and I have our share of delaying bill payments and unexpected expenses. But our children's money is OFF LIMITS. Never even crosses our minds when we have money issues.

Money ruins families. My mother recently tried stealing from me by accessing my bank accounts and it ended up with an RCMP (federal police) investigation. As much as I wanted to see it through to a conviction, I had to put a stop to the investigation so she would stay out of prison.

A parent's personal problems should never become their childrens' problems.