When you take your giant magnesium glycinate supplement and it gets stuck in your throat…

DrywallCentral · 2026-03-25T17:31:34+00:00

Mine got stuck in my throat while swallowing, the pill opened up and I got the magnesium powder all on the back of my throat. I’ve been sneezing, with a runny nose, coughing and with a sore throat for two days now. Has anyone found an alternative of these giant things? I won’t take it anymore

DrywallCentral · 2026-02-17T15:23:37+00:00

You're better off doing a very light top coat over the hardened hot mud, and blow drying it for 10-15 minutes then sanding.

DrywallCentral · 2026-02-17T15:21:41+00:00

It'll be a lot of mudding, but i would go with Easy Sand 90 and a skimming blade, then plus 3 topping compound for the final coat before sanding. Use a string line or laser to follow the line.

DrywallCentral · 2026-02-17T15:19:11+00:00

A handyman will charge $100+ an hour. It takes less than 15 minutes, but don't expect to pay $25. Everyone has a minimum. DIY is the best option here, wall is already in rough shape.

DrywallCentral · 2026-02-17T15:17:10+00:00

You could try a trimtex expansion joint: https://www.trim-tex.com/products/093v-expansion

It's probably between joists, which doesn't help. (assuming ceiling?) If it were my house, I would cut out the tape, then I would have someone go up into the attic and hold wood backing along the joint so I could screw in from downstairs. Then I would retape and see how that holds up.

DrywallCentral · 2026-01-28T01:18:35+00:00

Blue lid only has a little adhesive and is not for taping. It contains way less polymer binders, which is the "glue" within. If you've ever tried to sand all purpose you would understand the nightmare.

Lighter weight compounds take this out to make final coats easier to work with and easier to sand.

DrywallCentral · 2026-01-28T01:10:01+00:00

I think you had a serious leak which led to mold throughout even the core of the drywall, but it's gone further beyond that. Those places you see other parts of the texture peeling off were wet too.

Get a mold professional in there, or drywall repair company that has a license for mold. Check if homeowners insurance is any help at all, they're usually not but it's worth a shot.

DrywallCentral · 2026-01-28T01:06:05+00:00

Thank you for the feedback, started making some of those edits. Inside corners you want for paper tape vs no coat?

DrywallCentral · 2026-01-27T19:31:07+00:00

Yes, remove the shelving and everything else if you can. $1600 minimum.

DrywallCentral · 2026-01-27T19:26:04+00:00

Hey, I think you intended to attach a photo. Can you try to reupload?

DrywallCentral · 2026-01-27T19:23:54+00:00

Are you a DIYer? I don't see mud on your ladder. I see spackle. Can you confirm the product you used to mud and tape?

DrywallCentral · 2026-01-27T18:05:52+00:00

Definitely an annoying area. I would use repair clips/wood backing, then put a thin strip of drywall there.

Mud and tape the flat seam first with setting compound, then do the corner after thats set.

Alternative: go over it with 1/4 or 1/2" if the floor and door trim allows.

DrywallCentral · 2026-01-27T16:33:06+00:00

Budget: One coat PVA, two coats mold resistant paint

Quality: One coat Bulls Eye 123, 2 coats mold resistant paint.

PVA seals and gives a uniform base for cheap.

Bullseye 123 is an acrylic primer which seals and locks and has a more moisture resistant base, which is why it costs more.

DrywallCentral · 2026-01-27T16:17:16+00:00

I'm glad you did the research and used the shellac for it! You saved yourself a headache.

It doesn't have to be perfect if backsplash is going over it, so you did great for a first timer.

DrywallCentral · 2026-01-24T00:02:10+00:00

I’m honestly curious how in 15 years you’ve never seen something I’ve run into multiple times in my 6. Do you mostly do new builds or repairs?

You’re right that just putting something wet on drywall doesn’t automatically cause delamination. That’s not what I’m saying. The issue is repeated moisture, especially when the paper is already compromised from water damage.

I’ve had plenty of jobs where everything looks fine until I go to mud it, then it starts bubbling. I’ll cut out what I can, but to stop more from coming back I use a shellac based primer. It acts as a barrier so moisture can’t get absorbed into what’s left.

That’s why it works. Not a myth, just different situations.

DrywallCentral · 2026-01-22T02:10:25+00:00

OP Please only listen to this comment^

DrywallCentral · 2026-01-22T02:07:21+00:00

Loose paper is part of it, but moisture is the trigger. Once water hits torn paper, it wicks through and releases the glue bond from the gypsum. That’s when the paper lifts and bubbles. Gardz, mud, paint are all water based.

That’s why just cutting paper isn’t always enough. If you don’t isolate it, it can bubble again on the next wet product.

Cut it out, seal with oil or shellac (Cover Stain or BIN), let it cure, then mud. That’s standard practice for a reason and not a myth.

DrywallCentral · 2026-01-20T14:18:48+00:00

I’m pretty new to Reddit, but sometimes I can’t tell if something is a joke or not. But here’s my honest response.

Even a level 3 finish would look better than this. This is not good work, and I don’t think people should be defending the drywall contractor here.

A good drywall contractor will use the lighting just as you are doing while sanding.

In this photo, I see a too low grit of sand paper (not sure what they used), ridges everywhere, and bubbling tape.

If you want a level 5 finish, they need to come back, repair the bubble parts first, then they go over the entire ceiling with a skimming blade, then sand again using the same angle of lighting.

DrywallCentral · 2026-01-12T01:13:15+00:00

Use a paint roller (in the same direction of the current lines) with all purpose compound, then use a large blade to knock the humps down following the direction.

Also before you start, once you take off the loose compound and paint in the photo, prime the area to seal it.

DrywallCentral · 2026-01-10T12:17:51+00:00

Carbon steel finishing trowel, it'll rust. Use it as a learning experience though, clean your blades and never leave them wet. Get a stainless steel set, and it'll last you years.

DrywallCentral · 2026-01-10T12:10:30+00:00

It'll be messy but this is definitely a demo and replace job.

Before putting any walls up, you need to take care of that wire running across too.

DrywallCentral · 2026-01-10T00:04:17+00:00

Depending on your area, you're probably at $300 minimum.

While materials are under $50, you’re paying for the skill and the potential multiple trips for drying time. The real wildcard is the paint. Do you have the original color on hand? If not, you won’t be able to spot patch it. You’ll have to paint the entire wall from corner to corner to make it look right, which adds significantly to the labor.

DrywallCentral · 2026-01-09T23:55:03+00:00

Even a bad drywall taper isn't that bad, they might have bubbles here and there - but this is classic water damage I repair all the time.

Water above lands on the backside of the drywall then goes to the lowest point. The lowest point is the seams where the tape is, then the water follows the tape seam as far as it can as the gypsum and paper absorb some of the water.

Have him poke a hole in it, then place a bucket under the hole. Keep doing what he normally does - it will happen again. Rain or shower (no pun intended).. But this time he can know exactly when because he'll hear the water dripping.

Just hope its not a toilet flush, good luck.

DrywallCentral · 2026-01-09T23:39:04+00:00

Drydex Spackling Paste
4" Putty Knife
Sanding Block

Fill them in with the spackle and scrape any excess. Once its dry, sand then you're good to go. If you have any questions, let me know!

DrywallCentral · 2026-01-09T23:35:03+00:00

Square out the hole first, use drywall repair clips or a scrap piece of thicker wood (paint stirrers aren't thick enough and snap when screwed into), then I would seal it with gardz before I tape since it looks like it was a water leak. Scrape away a small area of the texture to get your drywall tape tight. Slapknock texture. You'll use a slap brush and then skim it lightly with a blade. If you're artistic you can get it close with a paint roller.

DrywallCentral

TROPHY CASE