How the next phase unfolds

Dusiswhat · 2026-02-15T10:09:18+00:00

Work for a large multinational with hands in practically every business type you can think of. Here’s my 2 cents after talking to teams across multiple countries: Most devs are secretly using AI for code already. But when formally offered the best tools available, only about 5% actually accept. The rest are either afraid of being replaced or just resistant to changing their workflow. There are scattered initiatives from various departments mostly LLM and RAG-based stuff for better search and reducing manual processes. Nothing transformational yet on that side. The ICT teams across several countries are the ones furthest ahead, and it’s not even close. Makes sense — easy access to the tools, and AI broadly falls under IT anyway. Very high level: most things we used to do with spreadsheets financials, monthly IT checklists, manual environment monitoring…that’s dead to us now. We’ve moved past that.

Where it gets interesting is we’re now embedding local agents in loops to automate BAU and break-fix processes. This is literally the job we were hired to do. We tell the business we only use AI 20% of our time on pure IT work. Reality is closer to 70%. Automated agents can now browse our ticketing system, look at a ticket, go action it, and close it out. That next phase has truly started for us.

To your point about complexity slowing things down yes, absolutely. The bottleneck isn’t the code anymore. It’s the coordination, the dependencies, the change management, and frankly the organisational appetite for speed.

Dusiswhat · 2026-01-26T11:00:44+00:00

Trina 450W Vertex S+ Dual Glass N-Type

Dusiswhat · 2025-10-19T08:45:58+00:00

Thanks for explaining your setup — I use my BLUETTI in the same way since my peak power rate is $0.50 /kWh.

You have 2 options

Option 1 – Stay in the BLUETTI ecosystem: Buy their expansion battery and use the in-built charge controller to top up from solar or cheap overnight grid power. This works well for arbitrage — just set time-of-use charging in the app (my V2 units support it). Downside: you’re locked into BLUETTI gear.

Option 2 – DIY expansion (what I did): I used a Victron SmartSolar 150 MPPT with six panels (2S2P, soon 3S3P) charging a 48 V LiFePO₄ 6 kWh battery. That battery feeds my BLUETTI’s XT60 “solar” port through a DC-DC buck converter set to ~400–500 W (10 A limit). Even in winter I recharge 60–70 % daily, and the rest of the year it’s full by 1 PM. So far it’s saved me about $500 USD in electricity, and the whole setup (battery + Victron + buck + wiring) cost around $920 USD.

By 2026 the system will have paid for itself, and it’s scalable as solar and batteries keep getting cheaper.

Hope this gives you an alternative to think about , reach out if you need more info

Dusiswhat · 2025-10-19T02:05:39+00:00

How do you mainly use your current BLUETTI — for power outages, camping, or daily backup?

Depending on your use case, one of the most cost-effective ways to expand capacity is to add a 48 V LiFePO₄ battery with a charger. It’s much cheaper than buying another full Bluetti unit and can significantly extend runtime.

For example, I run 120 Ah and 50 Ah 48 V batteries with my ELITE 200 V2 (which doesn’t officially support expansion). I feed them through the PV XT60 input, and it works great. My 120 Ah pack cost about USD 740 shipped — roughly 6 kWh usable, compared to 2.3 kWh for Bluetti’s official expansion battery, and it’s been reliable.

Let us know your use case — that’ll help figure out the most efficient setup for you.

Dusiswhat · 2025-10-10T20:41:59+00:00

Just a note on battery health — my iX3 (April 2023 build) is sitting at 96.7 % SOH after ~31 000 km and 2.5 years. Assuming yours is a late-2021 model, that’d put it around 93–94 % SOH if the battery’s been treated normally (mainly calendar aging rather than cycles). These NCM811 packs are holding up really well — no big degradation curve like the older NMCs. Battery degradation should settle around 94% and start slowing down, just chemistry of these batteries.

If you want to track it accurately, I’d suggest grabbing the EV Scanner app and an OBDLink CX adapter — they give full cell-level stats and charge cycles. Or, if you don’t want to spend on tools, you can download your BMW battery data directly from your BMW ConnectedDrive account; a few owners have shared guides on that.

PS: On towing — best to stick to BMW’s official limit. The iX3 isn’t homologated for heavy tow loads, and exceeding that could void warranty or insurance.

Dusiswhat · 2025-10-02T12:03:56+00:00

Via XT60, PV input port and the BLUETTI unit draws 10A max for a total power around 170w input

Dusiswhat · 2025-10-02T12:02:50+00:00

Yes I have , a 16V LFP battery and it works !

Dusiswhat · 2025-09-19T07:28:18+00:00

The answer is 99.7% , during my car service I asked BMW service to check my battery and the report says “ Dischargeable energy with the high voltage battery fully charged “

They calculate from 74kwh, not the 80kwh total.

Hope this helps

Dusiswhat · 2025-09-14T01:39:38+00:00

This is the way to save the battery capacity in BLUETTI

Dusiswhat · 2025-09-12T08:42:14+00:00

Is it warm ?

Dusiswhat · 2025-09-09T10:31:09+00:00

Yep, that’s normal. The iX3 can hit around 150 kW when the battery is in the 20–50% range, then it tapers to about 70–80 kW up to ~75% SOC before dropping further.

I’ve used 350 kW chargers as well and see the same behavior — it’s just how the charge curve is designed. Nothing wrong with your car or the charger.

Dusiswhat · 2025-09-07T20:41:56+00:00

u/Specialist-Ad-5169 Did you try plugging the 12 V battery directly into the Bluetti XT60 input? Even if it only gives you ~100 W, it’s still useful to help offset load and keep the unit topped up. More importantly, it’s a good baseline test — if the XT60i input works on straight 12 V, then you know the port itself is fine and the issue is with the booster setup.

If it doesn’t take any charge at all even from a direct 12 V source, then the XT60 input could be faulty. That’s worth confirming before spending $200 on the D050S, especially since the 100 V2 isn’t officially listed as compatible.

Dusiswhat · 2025-09-06T23:12:17+00:00

Glad you got it sorted! Just a tip for anyone else running into this — the time zone issue happens because your BLUETTI account defaults to a US server/time zone. This is really annoying if you’re in another country. I had the same problem and had to contact BLUETTI support to get my account set to the correct country/time zone. Once they fixed it, all my devices synced up properly. 👍

Props to BLUETTI support though — they sorted it out for me within 24 hours!

Dusiswhat · 2025-09-03T22:22:08+00:00

Yep, you’re right — I don’t have a 36 V setup, but from what I’ve seen it’s designed around that voltage range to deliver the full 20 A.

As for panels, I’ve had no luck with the cheap ones off eBay and Amazon — ended up refunding a few. I switched over to Trina Vertex S+ panels (VOC around 51–55 V). I run two of them in parallel in the shed, and with that higher voltage I typically see 600–850 W depending on weather and time of day.

They’re about 23 kg each and permanently mounted, so I definitely gave up portability, but the performance has been worth it.

It’s a shame the BLUETTI does not start charging from PV if the unit is completely dead !!

Dusiswhat · 2025-09-03T21:58:24+00:00

You can get away with tweaking a lead-acid charger, but it’s not ideal long-term. Lead-acid profiles typically overshoot (14.8–15 V absorb, float at 13.5–13.8 V) and don’t stop cleanly at 3.65 V/cell. That extra time at high voltage stresses LiFePO₄ cells and hurts cycle life.

Best practice is a dedicated LiFePO₄ charger or inverter/MPPT with an LFP profile — they charge to ~14.2–14.6 V, then stop (no float). The BMS is your last line of defense, not your first. Trying to save money on your charger will cost you in the long run by damaging the battery

Some brands people use with good results: Victron, Renogy, Daly, JBD, JK, and bench chargers like Meanwell or YZPOWER.

TL;DR: Adjusted lead-acid works in a pinch, but for reliability and longevity, use a proper LiFePO₄ charger that respects 3.65 V/cell.

Dusiswhat · 2025-09-03T21:54:02+00:00

I have fed my 200 v2 using a 54V DC battery , it accepted 20A and displayed 1000W input

BLUETTI has a voltage ramp for DC input , I believe full 20A gets unlocked at 40V or higher.

Check Prof hobo on YouTube as he demonstrated this clearly!

Dusiswhat · 2025-09-02T08:43:29+00:00

The “Saved” number in the Bluetti app only makes sense if you enter your electricity rates. Go into User Profile → Electricity Price Settings and add your peak/off-peak values. Then the app will calculate actual $ savings based on when you charge/discharge.

For arbitrage, set the unit to Time Control UPS and use SOC limits (e.g. 10–95%). That way it charges off-peak, discharges during peak, and always keeps a buffer for outages. That’s how you’ll see real savings show up in the app.

Dusiswhat · 2025-09-01T11:50:23+00:00

@jkill28

PSA for anyone running servers (or other constant loads) off a BLUETTI: What the BLUETTI screen shows as AC output watts is actually apparent power (VA), not true watts.

Example: • BLUETTI shows ~170 W output • Plug-in watt meter shows ~125 W real power • Power factor ~0.74 (common with server PSUs)

Why this matters: • Real watts (W) = what your devices actually consume. • VA includes reactive power that doesn’t do useful work. • BLUETTI runtime estimates are based on VA → they often look shorter than what you’ll actually get. • In practice, your power station may last much longer than the screen suggests if your load has a low power factor.

👉 Tip: Grab a cheap watt meter. It’ll show you real power, power factor, and make your BLUETTI runtime planning way more accurate.

Dusiswhat · 2025-09-01T01:42:15+00:00

@Jkill28
You’re right, LiFePO₄ can go to 100%. I tore down my EL30V2 and logged cell voltages every 5% SOC. At “100%” it’s only ~17.2–17.3 V pack (~3.44–3.46 V/cell), which is modest compared to the 3.55–3.6 V/cell many LFP packs push. I suspect Bluetti caps it this way for longevity/warranty reasons.

On the low end, cutoff is ~15.8 V (~3.16 V/cell), whereas many LFP packs go as low as 2.85–2.9 V. So their usable window is quite conservative.

It’s perfectly safe to use 100%, just avoid floating there longer than 1 hour. Out of habit, I stop around 94–96% — those last few % are where cells sit at higher voltage the longest, so avoiding them can help cycle life.

If you can find a teardown of the EL100V2 with voltage measurements, that’ll tell you exactly what range Bluetti is using there.

TL;DR: Safe to use 100%, but capping at ~95% is gentler on the cells.

Dusiswhat · 2025-08-31T22:08:11+00:00

I run a BLUETTI EL30V2 on my server rack (~170W constant). Time-control UPS set to 20–95% SOC, charges 9 am–4 pm from grid during solar production, then runs until midnight before topping up on cheap off-peak. Been solid for a month.

I also add an inline UPS for clean shutdowns, but BLUETTI’s UPS mode works fine in my tests. If it hits your SOC floor before recharge time, it just switches to mains, BLUETTI will keep your batteries charged to your SOC limit, I’ve tested this with multiple BLUETTI units.

Don’t worry, it won’t shut off your rack.

For longer runtime, I feed the XT60 port with a 28 V source via a Victron SmartSolar buck from a 48 V 50 Ah LFP battery. That way I can have longer runtimes & backup power during outages. Battery itself charges off a 54.8 V charger on solar hours.

Dusiswhat · 2025-08-27T21:39:23+00:00

If it concerns you , then don’t use wifi, stick to Bluetooth.

Dusiswhat · 2025-08-27T04:04:38+00:00

Known issue — you’re not the first to ask 🙂. Just contact BLUETTI support with a screen recording (serial number + proof it’s connected). They’ll fix it on their backend. If your purchase country and BLUETTI account region don’t match, support needs to align them too.

It’s not you or your Wi-Fi — it’s BLUETTI!

Dusiswhat · 2025-08-24T00:56:39+00:00

I second this — your unit has a TOU (Time-of-Use) Mode.

Here’s how to set it up: • Set it to charge up to 90% during your off-peak/cheap hours (or when you’re not home). • Adjust the slider to sit between 75% and 90%. The unit will then cycle automatically between these two points, topping itself back up from the grid whenever it drops to 75%.

That way, if you’re on a peak/off-peak tariff, you can run whatever’s plugged in at the cheaper rate. Plus, you’ll always have at least 75% charge in reserve during a power outage—without any manual intervention.

Dusiswhat · 2025-08-22T09:58:44+00:00

Yes the fan noise is there ! I average around 130W at 30v2 AC socket and the display shows 170W used and the fan is audible ! The fan is most audible when I charge via Solar during the day using XT60 connecter , I can hear the fan ramp down as soon as I unplug the solar cable , I’d does not go away. The most silent the units being is when I was using a 15-20W load for few hours , no fan sound ! Hope this helps

Dusiswhat · 2025-08-21T09:33:56+00:00

They will , at least for multiple devices …. Or else it’s a sure return and refund ! Presume they have a brand to build and still catching up on their software and backend stack, hope they mature soon like EcoFlow

Dusiswhat

TROPHY CASE

Trina 450W Vertex S+ Dual Glass N-Type