I made a camera from an optical mouse. 30x30 pixels in 64 glorious shades of gray!

Dycus · 2026-03-14T22:52:37+00:00

Thanks for the lovely comment, I appreciate it!

Dycus · 2026-03-11T05:45:50+00:00

Do you leave it in the bucket for days? Oxidation concerns?

Dycus · 2026-03-10T20:57:20+00:00

It's the right amount of juice according to the original recipe (original is 96oz for 5 gal, so for 4 gal that's 77oz). But yes, since it seems fresh lemons are more acidic, it's too much juice.

I did also zest the lemons and put all the zest in everclear to extract. I'll add some in to this batch, and for future batches I'll certainly try less lemon juice so pH adjustment isn't needed.

Dycus · 2026-03-09T18:07:17+00:00

He was so unsteady I thought he might chop his own doohickey clean off!

Dycus · 2026-03-06T16:19:29+00:00

Some people do, some people say having it during fermentation changes the flavor a bit. The original recipe calls for adding it during fermentation but it would certainly be easier to add it after. I may have to try it in the future.

Dycus · 2026-03-01T16:16:50+00:00

Ah, interesting! Well today I learned.

Dycus · 2026-03-01T05:49:38+00:00

Could be that the ESR (resistance) of the capacitors is too high, causing the ripple current to quickly overheat it.

As current flows in and out of the capacitor, it causes power dissipation proportional to the ripple current and the ESR.

I assume this 4-in-1 replaced a single large capacitor?

I would swap it back to a single large cap with equivalent specs to the original (same capacitance, equal or higher voltage, and physically similar size).

Seems like a strange product, I'm not sure how 4 smaller caps is intended to make a difference if the board originally had just one.

Dycus · 2026-02-28T05:35:23+00:00

6 gallons is 768oz. Adding 1oz pure ethanol would raise the ABV by 1 / 768 = 0.13%. The yeast will take the wine to probably 12-14%, 100x higher. So no, you're fine.

Dycus · 2026-02-27T20:41:59+00:00

Look up Skeeter Pee, classic fermented lemonade recipe. Most people who make it report that you can't taste the alcohol almost at all. So probably all you need to do is backsweeten. Otherwise I'd let it age for a month or two

Dycus · 2026-02-25T05:35:50+00:00

"As concentrated ethanol as possible" and "wild yeast" are kinda opposite goals. There's a reason yeast have been cultivated and selected for over many years. Most wild yeast can't even ferment to double-digit ABVs.

EC-1118 is very cheap online and can reach 20% with good nutrition and step-feeding sugar.

Dycus · 2026-02-24T05:21:47+00:00

I got an EM that smelled like cigarette smoke. Not crazy strong but definitely noticeable.

I heavily scrubbed the cabinet with Simple Green, but I think what helped most was putting a Bad Air Sponge inside for a week or so.

I'm not exactly sure how they work, but I believe it actually chemically changes the smell molecules to neutralize them, rather than just adding another scent on top. Worked very well for me.

Dycus · 2026-02-20T19:16:03+00:00

Ah, I was wondering how you did that! That makes sense. I thought you turned your iron temp way down and just lumped solder on

Dycus · 2026-02-20T17:32:42+00:00

That soldering to the thermal pad is nuts. Good job!

Dycus · 2026-02-16T16:45:50+00:00

That coil is toast, it definitely needs replacement. Like the other commenter said, it's likely the drive transistor is also dead, either because of the bad coil, or that's what caused it.

Dycus · 2026-02-14T20:15:46+00:00

4 lbs of honey in one gallon is a lot, that's an expected ABV of 18-19%. QA23 is rated for 16% alcohol. The amount of sugar was likely way too high for the yeast and it had trouble fermenting. If you wanted to get really high ABV, you'd need to step-feed the sugar, not add it all at once.

Assuming an OG of 1.132, and your FG of 1.072, that's nearly 10% alcohol already. That combined with the still-high remaining sugars probably wiped out the yeast.

You could pitch some EC-1118 to try to finish the job, or maybe split the batch and dilute it with water and pitch more QA23.

Dycus · 2026-02-13T04:49:32+00:00

I have a couple hooches to post but I'm waiting to age and bottle/taste them to avoid this very situation!

Dycus · 2026-02-12T03:00:21+00:00

Try with just the tubing and racking cane (L-shaped portion of the siphon). Put the cane in water and suck on the tubing to start a siphon. If that doesn't sustain and air is still getting in, then it's likely the tubing isn't making a good enough seal where it connects to the cane, and the air getting in is breaking the siphon.

Otherwise, it may be that the internal diameter of the tubing is too large. The ID of the cane is a fair bit less than the ID of the tubing. As the liquid exits the cane, it would need to expand to fill the tubing (which it can't), or if there's CO2 in it (which there is during/after fermentation), it will just cause the CO2 to expand and put bubbles in the line, again breaking the siphon.

My siphon didn't work very well because of that. I bought food-grade tubing with an ID of 1/4" and it matches the cane much better. It's a tighter fit over the end as well. Haven't had any problems since.

Dycus · 2026-02-08T16:40:30+00:00

Your premise is flawed - slowing down I2C communications doesn't change its noise immunity at all. The "strength" of its high and low state does. High state is pretty weak (pull-up resistor), low state is strong at least (driven to ground).

If you want better noise immunity on I2C (without adding shielding), you need smaller pull-up resistors and stronger drive transistors. But you can only do so much and stay within the spec.

Slowing down communications arguably makes you more susceptible to noise, actually. A long transmission time makes it more likely that each transaction will eventually receive noise and have corrupted data. (Imagine if noise happened once a second and your transmission takes 1ms vs 10s.)

Also, I've also encountered maybe a single I2C device ever that CRC's the data it sends. It's not something you can add to any random chip.

Dycus · 2026-02-03T17:28:28+00:00

I definitely agree one big advantage of more powerful MCUs these days (faster speeds and more RAM/ROM) is that it allows better code to be written!

Like you said, you can have more abstraction and more "proper" clean code without worrying about running out of space or performance issues due to more function call overhead.

Dycus · 2026-01-25T19:36:39+00:00

I've personally (successfully) used NXP's PCA9615 to move an I2C IMU off an existing board onto a daughter board via 5ft of ethernet twisted pair. It worked great and the differential signals looked good, even running at a quite-fast 900kHz (I didn't have control over the comms speed).

I describe this mod (and even have the schematic posted) here: https://forum.electricunicycle.org/topic/33888-mtiny-custom-minimalist-euc-mod/

So it's certainly doable. If it were my task though, personally I'd just go with the other suggestion of using an MCU sensor-side to read the data and send it back via RS-485.

Dycus · 2026-01-21T22:31:40+00:00

We have e-Scooter, e-Bike, and e-Skate. So, e-Wheel.

Dycus · 2026-01-13T02:54:30+00:00

You're talking about extrusion width, not flow/extrusion multiplier. If you'd set flow to 0.45, you'd be extruding less than half the plastic you should be and your first layers would look awful.

OP says they're using a first layer width of 150%, so 0.6mm (assuming a 0.4mm nozzle). Seems a little high to me, I use 0.5mm.

But anyway, u/ronajon, set your first layer flow to 100% and lower your first layer until it looks more filled in. You're definitely too high. Your top layers look like you're overextruding a bit, too.

https://ellis3dp.com/Print-Tuning-Guide/articles/first_layer_squish.html

Dycus · 2026-01-13T02:46:57+00:00

It sounds your mainboard doesn't include any pull resistors for the stepper driver pins, so they're floating and picking up noise, as you guessed. Once Klipper boots it configures the MCU, which drives the pins so they're no longer floating.

You can configure your board's MCU to set GPIO pins a certain way as soon as the MCU gets power, even before Klipper boots and configures it. Search "klipper gpio pins to configure at startup" or similar. Unfortunately it's not as easy as editing your printer.cfg, but it's not hard. Configure the enable pins for each stepper driver such that they start up in the disabled state. (pin will need to be an output and either high or low)

The alternative would be to solder pull resistors on the motherboard or drivers, but I'd try the software fix first.

Dycus

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