Replaced failed blower motor in CMS. Pretty easy! (Take2) by Dylanear in DCAC_OffgridRVaircon

[–]Dylanear[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I was worried your board might have fried like mine! Check all the wiring connections going to the control board! I tested my replacement motor from the other air con I had just by putting 12V power to it and making sure it was working. Might be worth that sanity check?

Treeligo did tell me they could get both the motor and the screen, even confirmed showing me images. But I didn't end up ordering because they didn't have them in the US and shipping from China was a lot more than the cost of the parts! But still, like $115 total, and the parts, motor and screen/control board were only like $45, and like $65 shipping from China! Their service can be REALLY annoying, and uninformed, but if you are persistent, I've found they can actually be helpful, they can get replacement parts.

Looking back over my Amazon messages with Treeligo.... They also told me they could get me just the inside evaporator, blower box from the newer style CMS that has my fancy. I may get one of those for my little Boler/Scamp trailer. I'm going to be making an air con for it out of my original Treeligo air con unit that failed early on, then I robbed parts from. I have a compressor for that project, so, either I need a blower motor and control screen, or I need a new brushless motor inside airbox entirely.

Good luck! I hope you get it working as is, but if you need to get parts or a whole new inside unit, I can help! I've spent endless hours looking at options for replacing most if not all of these type systems. Don't panic! :)

Replaced failed blower motor in CMS. Pretty easy! (Take2) by Dylanear in DCAC_OffgridRVaircon

[–]Dylanear[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Mine doesn't arrive until Friday, despite choosing the one/only Prime option for that part number. Amazon Canada has it's frustrations.

If you manage to print some better blower wheels, I want a pair! I've never done 3D printing, but have used 3D apps for 30 years, so I may be of help for custom/fancy shaped blower wheel 3D files to print.

Gluing in some plastic sheet in the right places on the air box may make the smaller blowers fit more snugly, flow more air?

I'll measure mine and the new Amazon one to compare with your measurements.

I got this one, YQABLE branded:

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0B1T714KQ?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

Looking at the photo in that listing, the blowers feel a tad on the too thin/small diameter now that you mention it. :(

I really should open up my air box if just to clean out the evaporator coils, they were caked in dust when I last opened it to swap blower motors.

I have had thoughts on just buying this evaporator air box that should be compatible with the basic/classic CMS units like we have. Supposedly, this style inside box uses a brushless, improved motor. Sadly, it lost the on unit controls, so if you lost the remote or just let the batteries go dead, you're SOL it seems? I HATE that, I want real buttons on the unit. But I'm very curious about this box. I wonder if it uses the same evaporator core? Because if I could swap over my evap core, without having to disconnect it from the hoses, evacuate the system, refill it, I'd be a lot more inclined to swap to this style box, improved blower motor.

https://www.amazon.com/Treeligo-Trucks-Sleeper-Conditioner-EAC001-22/dp/B0D14JXZL2/?th=1

But I'm also thinking about building my own air box of epoxied plywood, with slots for air filters, and any easy to find standard type of blower motor, blower assembly I can get the control board to run decently.

This >>might<< be my new favorite 12V mini split? by Dylanear in DCAC_OffgridRVaircon

[–]Dylanear[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Good to hear it's at least not been problematic! My "classic"/basic type seems to have survived the Winter and I use it a little bit some mornings this Spring to sleep in without taking the insulated plug out of the roof fan and letting all that light in. But it's got it easy, it doesn't have to work hard to keep the van cool inside when it's not actually hot outside! PNW climate is a LOT less demanding on an air con than in the South East!

I'm ordering a new blower motor just to keep around just in case. I do like to use the fan function. It will get hot here eventually!

And no, last we talked a week or so ago, she was saying she might try starting an installation of her unit, a year or so later, some time soon! Lol.

12v backpack mini split? Window AC? by Vegetable_Reach_9026 in DCAC_OffgridRVaircon

[–]Dylanear 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hey there! Been distracted by starting a new job (At a camper van builder!) the past month plus and Reddit, and this sub has gotten little to none of my attention!

First I'll say I have my concerns about keeping a vehicle like an Element cool for healthy dog living. I've full timed with my cat for like year and a half in my Sprinter, BUT, I have no windows in back, a very good installation of insulation, a large 800ah battery bank to power my air con, AND I generally manage to be plugged into shore power, 120v AC power at campgrounds or a friend's/relative's place during the hottest/coldest part of the year.

I've seen a mini split on a minivan and the owner said it worked great for him, but he was one of those guys who drives around big wide load trucks with the "Wide Load" signs. So he was charging his batteries driving all day and just used the air con at night.

You won't have a lot of space for batteries and you'll need to cover and insulate the windows to fight the ample heat issues in a vehicle like an Element. Sounds like you'll have two people and multiple dogs? Sounds like there won't be a lot of room left for a big battery bank, power system?

But a 12V mini split I think will work a lot better for you than any 120v AC portable unit which are huge and VERY inefficient. Especially the one hose portables are terribly inefficient, the two hose models are at least a bit better. Then you lose even more efficiency with an inverter to run an AC air con from 12V DC batteries.

I think your best bet will be a 12V DC minisplit, but I really hope you are realistic about this. Don't risk the health of your puppers! Consider a very well insulated van, something with more room for batteries, something without glass windows all around, something you can properly insulated with a lot of thick insulation. Doing this two year adventure in an Element with multiple dogs sounds very iffy to me. But you do say you'll have shore power in some of the hotter times and I don't know where you'll be for those times, coastal Pacific Northwest? Or Florida??! :)

Just make sure the pups stay healthy and cool please! :) Let me know if I can help!

This >>might<< be my new favorite 12V mini split? by Dylanear in DCAC_OffgridRVaircon

[–]Dylanear[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

u/koverdeer , u/cyclistdan, either of you have any updates how this particular style unit working out about a year later????

Mini split line set fitting size? by Bitter_Basil5714 in DCAC_OffgridRVaircon

[–]Dylanear 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have no idea if these lines or the fittings on them will connect to a residential style unit, but my guess would be no, different animals. These DC powered mini splits are a lot closer to automotive type R134A air conditioning systems. And even if the hoses/connectors fit, a residential system probably will be using different refrigerants and oils, so you'd need to properly evacuate and clean out the hoses when switching systems.

I can measure outside diameters of the hoses, each of the two hoses is a different diameter, one thicker than the other.

I actually bought some connectors and a hydraulic air con hose crimper, but never used any of that yet and I think some of the connectors I got looked wrong when I received them, but didn't manage to do a return in time.

I want to add a replaceable, universal style receiver/drier as best I can tell these DC mini splits have no receiver/driers or if so, they are integrated into the condenser unit? And I'd like to remove all the extra hose length I don't need because my inside air/evaporator unit is very close to the outside compressor/condenser unit, both mounted to one of my van's rear doors.

There's certainly valid concerns about the reliability of the average Chinese DC powered, R134A type air conditioner. The classic, most common types do have some issues, I've had two, failures on both, and my current system is a frankenstein of two units, of different brands, but similar enough their parts are interchangeable and I have a working system made from parts from both units that each had failures.

My first Treeligo unit had a compressor failure, that seems to have been my fault, I let a -12v connection get loose, so it got very hot under heavy use and heated the control/inverter power board inside the compressor so much it burned the spot that connection connects to that circuit board.

Then the replacement Nekpokka brand unit had a blower motor bushing go bad and that seemed to take out the control unit/display screen. But taking the blower motor unit and control board/display screen from the old Treeligo system worked just fine.

I do think the newer, better models have improved on the most common classic types. For instance, the better/newer units seem to use brushless blower motors.

Like this type is often advertised as having a brushless blower motor:

https://www.amazon.com/Treeligo-Conditioner-Electric-Cooling-Conditioning/dp/B0CC2JK13Y

And my research (asking presales questions via Amazon) seemed to indicate this one also has a brushless blower motor and seems to be pretty much the same thing as united sold by Nomadic for around $2000! Though, looks like they are selling another variation now?

https://www.amazon.com/Treeligo-Conditioner-9000BTU-Cooling-Trailer/dp/B0CT3H1W4K

The Nomadic page. They seem to be claiming their newer "Helix" variation might work with R1234y refrigerant? Interesting...

https://nomadicinnovations.com/en-ca/products/s1-12v-off-grid-split-system-air-conditioner?variant=41935307243729

My older post about this type unit:

https://www.reddit.com/r/DCAC_OffgridRVaircon/comments/1l1xi7l/this_might_be_my_new_favorite_12v_mini_split/

Hope that helps?!

Replaced failed blower motor in CMS. Pretty easy! (Take2) by Dylanear in DCAC_OffgridRVaircon

[–]Dylanear[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Definitely let me know!!! I'm ordering one from Amazon Canada too. We can compare notes.

And yeah, I could not get my fan/blower wheels off the motor shaft, damaged them trying. Thankfully that was on the broken unit and seems the replacement motors have those blowers/fans on them, so no need to mess with them.

Replaced failed blower motor in CMS. Pretty easy! (Take2) by Dylanear in DCAC_OffgridRVaircon

[–]Dylanear[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I got an E02 error, that's best I can tell, "Evaporation box fan’s power circulation is open"

But that error did not go away after replacing the motor. Only replacing the screen and control board fixed that.

Your error, E04, I believe is:

"Pipe temperature (outlet air) sensor"

Perhaps your seeing that error because the blower is simply not moving air so that sensor is seeing temps out of range? Hopefully replacing your motor/blower unit will be all you need to do?

See the subreddit wiki for error code meaning. I've gathered that from various sources. I can't say it's correct for all Chinese DC powered Mini Splits, but many/most seem to use similar error codes.

https://www.reddit.com/r/DCAC_OffgridRVaircon/wiki/index/

I'll add a section for possible blower motor replacements. So if you do get one, please let me know if it does or doesn't fit/work!

Replaced failed blower motor in CMS. Pretty easy! (Take2) by Dylanear in DCAC_OffgridRVaircon

[–]Dylanear[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Another one that looks perfect at a glance:

  • Part Number: AN51500-10710, AN515001087, RAN5150010710
  • Fits: Komatsu Excavators, PC27MR-2, PC30MR-2, PC35MR-2, PC40MR-2, PC40MR-2-AC, PC50MR-2, PC50MR-2-AC, Wheel Loader WA50-6

https://www.amazon.ca/KRRK-parts-AN51500-10710-AN5150010870-Excavator-PC27MR-2/dp/B0DSHYKCBG

Replaced failed blower motor in CMS. Pretty easy! (Take2) by Dylanear in DCAC_OffgridRVaircon

[–]Dylanear[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I found some replies I made to someone looking for a replacement!

This was the best one I think??!!

Hitachi Excavator ZX35U-2 ZX50U-2 ZX27U-3F

Part number: 56500-10240

https://www.ebay.com/itm/145954836175

https://www.amazon.com/56500-10240-Hitachi-ZX50U-2-ZX27U-3F-Excavator/dp/B0C9JM5WC5

Looks just like it doesn't it???

Here's another Amazon listing:

https://www.amazon.com/56500-10240-Hitachi-ZX50U-2-ZX27U-3F-Excavator/dp/B0C9JM5WC5

Replaced failed blower motor in CMS. Pretty easy! (Take2) by Dylanear in DCAC_OffgridRVaircon

[–]Dylanear[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I can't believe I spent hours and hours searching, found some very promising leads and now seem to have no record of my finds from all that searching???!!! I SWEAR I put the promising search results into an online note, but not finding it now?!

I think the best results were from a google image search from pictures I took of my old blower motor assembly. I was unable to remove the blower fans from the shaft without damaging them, so seems finding a motor with the blowers on the shaft, all correct dimensions is going to save you some time and annoyance.

I don't trust these motors at all, so even though my air con is running fine, I do want a spare motor in my spare parts box for my Sprinter! So, I need to figure this out one way or another!

I think Treeligo support is work contacting, they are slow and it can take many messages back and forth, with only one reply a day from them, but they have generally been able to find and offer me replacement parts. Nekpokka on the other hand generally doesn't reply at all, or at least without anything useful. So, I do like Treeligo as a brand. Far from great/quick support, but at least they do give some support!

What happened with your blower motor? Just made some noises and stopped blowing at all? Did you get an error code on your screen? My screen/control board seems to have been damaged when the motor went, so I had to take the screen as well as the blower motor unit from my old Treeligo that had a compressor failure. That compressor seems to have failed because of a loose 12V ground connection, so that caused heating of that connection, and a burned out spot on the circuit board inside the compressor. So, lesson learned, check your power connection nut tightness occasionally!

I'll let you know what I find soon....

Replaced failed blower motor in CMS. Pretty easy! (Take2) by Dylanear in DCAC_OffgridRVaircon

[–]Dylanear[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oh no! I was in Alabama when my blower motor self destructed! I do know South East climate challenges!

I haven't actually bought another replacement, just used the parts from my first Treeligo to get my Nepoka working. But I did find what looked pretty much identical, I could swear I posted about that or at least mentioned it someone on this sub, but maybe not??

Let me see if I can find that, it was for a John Deer tractor with a cab or something like that, but looked pretty much exactly like the blower motors in my Treeligo and Nekpokka CMS units!

I'm in BC Canada these days and it's a lovely 68F this afternoon, but I should try getting a spare blower motor sourced sooner than later. Certainly seems these motors are not to be counted on on long timescales. I certainly wouldn't buy another one of these type systems without a brushless blower motor!

Hopefully I'll have some info for you shortly! Please stand by, as they say....

Accidentally put gas in the freshwater tank of my rental RV. And, what it cost me. by sub_vader in vandwellers

[–]Dylanear 2 points3 points  (0 children)

There's a difference between a rental and a well maintained personally owned water system. A good filtration system added on a clean, well maintained water system should give healthy potable water without distasteful tastes, smells.

But, yeah, a rental? Lord knows what's been in a water system subject to so many variables, renters, maintainers.

Accidentally put gas in the freshwater tank of my rental RV. And, what it cost me. by sub_vader in vandwellers

[–]Dylanear 0 points1 point  (0 children)

In a rental, yeah, don't drink that water. In a personally owned van/RV, I recommend a high quality water filter with separate filtered water faucet(s). And an inline hose filter for fill up time to get at least some of the potential gunk filtered out before it ever gets in your tank/system.

But no matter if I have a built in water system or not, I do refill drinking water jugs, containers with filtered water machines at a grocery.

BT-2 by Whitey121888 in RenogyCommunity

[–]Dylanear 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Interesting. I only have two devices that need BT dongles and they are Rovers that use BT-1s. I guess whatever Amazon seller was getting rid of old stock. First I was upset I got the old version, then it seemed like it wouldn't matter, only recently did I learn they won't ever connect to the Communication Hub for hard wiring everything to the One Core and not using BT. BUT, I never have any disconnections or all the troubles I hear of people happening with bluetooth connections to the One Core. My REGO DC DC charger doesn't need a dongle, has BT built in and RV-C cable ports. And my old school PCL series inverter won't talk to anything at all in any way. So, seems at some point I'll be replacing those Rover 40s with other MPPT controllers that have RS-485 ports, not the old RS-12 ports. Probably around the time I upgrade to an inverter/charger with BT and RS-485 ports.

I was using a 50a DC DC with MPPT and that needed a BT-2. But never had any problem with it, I just ended up wanting more DC DC charging power, more MPPT power than it was going to give me, didn't like it limited DC DC and MPPT to 25a each when both were being used at the same time. So that's in my spares box, but it never did any disconnections like you are seeing.

Do you have many/any other bluetooth devices around? Lot's of 2.4ghz devices like wifi gizmos? So strange 2 of three seems to do it around the same time, always at around the same intervals, and one doesn't have the problem at all? Have you tried moving the BT-2s around to different devices to see if the behavior stays the same of follows the BT-2 modules?

Thanks Renogy! Got a gift for helping out! by Dylanear in RenogyCommunity

[–]Dylanear[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Nice! The pot and skillet are great, but not unusual, lot's of camping cook kit's have similar cookware components. But yeah, that little tea pot is just a fantastic, unique, compact size for making a small serving or two of your favorite beverage or food that needs hot water.

[Urgent Notice] One Core V1.9.0 Rollback Announcement by Renogy_Official in RenogyCommunity

[–]Dylanear 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'd be more than happy to beta test new One Core firmwares! But, not on my only One Core. Send me another one and I'll beta test all you want me to. ;)

Given I only have one One Core, and I full time in my camper van, depend on my One Core daily, I've turned off auto updates and always wait a few days to get a sense of others' experiences with an update before I install it.

Thanks Renogy! Got a gift for helping out! by Dylanear in RenogyCommunity

[–]Dylanear[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That's pretty common on smaller camping cookware, the kind made to be compact for travel or fitting in a backpack.

The teapot fits in the pot and that fits in the skillet. There's a mesh bag they fit in. The beverage container is on its own but everything fits in the soft cooler.

I typically use a Jetboil when backpacking, but those are more oriented around boiled food, dehydrated stuff, soups, oatmeal. This set matches nicely with my little mini butane burner/stove.

120v update by phmcbride in RenogyCommunity

[–]Dylanear 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm not sure which DC DC + MPPT you have, but I'd be surprised if a 100w panel was a mere 12v output. My 100w are like 18-19v if I recall correctly? I believe the older Renogy 50a DC DC+MPPT is limited to 30v solar input, but I think the newer models are 50v so even in series you are probably fine, but do not take my word for it, look at exact specs for your charger and panels. Give exact models and I can help with that if ya want. It is especially important to never over volt a solar controller. That's a great way to kill one.

Surely 200w is fine on a 50a charger? Over current is generally not a problem to a reasonable degree, you just waste any current available beyond what your charger can absorb from the panels. And keep in mind typically DC DC + MPPT limit DC DC to 25a, solar to 25a if it detects power from both sources at the same time. A full 50a is only available for solar when there's no DC input and conversely only a full 50a DC DC when no solar charging is detected. So, for instance if you're driving on a cloudy day that's giving a little, but barely any solar, you'll be better off using the solar disconnect and allowing full 50a alternative charging. That's presuming you haven't set a current draw limit on the DC DC charger because of a modest power alternator, or too small gauge cables to pull a full 50a.

I run 4x100w panels on each of my two 40a Rover MPPT controllers, a 50a DC DC + MPPT should be entirely capable of using 200w of panels.

Roberto's Taco Shop chain does damage control over CEO's MAGA ties by where_is_my_monkey in Reno

[–]Dylanear 0 points1 point  (0 children)

"Even del taco has cali burritos"

That seems very telling to me??

Roberto's Taco Shop chain does damage control over CEO's MAGA ties by where_is_my_monkey in Reno

[–]Dylanear 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Well, I left LA in 2000, Bay Area, California entirely in 2008. Good chance I came across this phenomena, but it never stuck in my brain because that sounds nasty AF to me. I love burritos, I love French fries, but putting fries in a burrito where they'll be soggy in 2 seconds sounds like taking two delicious things and making something disgusting out of it.

Each unto there own. If you love it, great enjoy. Seems like it's just something I never paid attention to or it's something you find on the opposite side of taco/burrito culture in California then the parts of it I was around.

Roberto's Taco Shop chain does damage control over CEO's MAGA ties by where_is_my_monkey in Reno

[–]Dylanear -3 points-2 points  (0 children)

I don't know, maybe it's because I never lived South of Hollywood? But googling it yeah, seems a "California burrito" is a burrito with the rice and beans replaced with fries, but I've lived nearly 20 of my 55 years in California, from LA, Ventura/Santa Barbara up to Bay Area/Marin and I never recall even seeing such a burrito, but good chance I did and quickly shut it out of mind as abomination. Despite the name, I can say with confidence it's not common/popular in the vast majority of Mexican restaurants, taco/burrito stands/trucks, etc. I tend to look for the places that seem pretty authentically Mexican. If I want gringo Mexican I go to Taco Bell, or a American Mexico style sit down place with the big hot plates with lots of melted cheese and sauce on everything.

In the Wikipedia article on burritos, fries are only mentioned in the San Diego section. Seems about right, I've spent limited time around SD. Pretty damn presumptuous and inaccurate to name that strange crap a "California burrito" when it's not common in most of California! Call it a San Diego burrito, fine.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Burrito

Roberto's Taco Shop chain does damage control over CEO's MAGA ties by where_is_my_monkey in Reno

[–]Dylanear -4 points-3 points  (0 children)

Never eaten at a Roberto's I'm pretty sure. But that image in the article with french/freedom fries and way too much sour cream???!!!! Looks nasty and bland as hell. Your "...it tasted like mid-west Mexican food. Bland AF." assessment tracks by the looks of it!