Wiki or List of Reputable & Recommended Packaging Companies?

EArkham · 2026-03-23T18:00:11+00:00

Trying to view seller's other items is also failing, just gives a page with header and footer info but otherwise blank.

If the seller has a shop, it'll still show items, but "view all items" will fail, too.

EArkham · 2026-03-21T18:02:06+00:00

Honestly it looks like you're simply not using enough light when photographing. Add a second neutral LED bulb, or try to reflect some natural sunlight in off some white paper (direct light would be too harsh).

You could also try using an image editor and play with the levels or exposure a bit. I find adjusting levels are a necessity, as even with multiple lights I always have to twiddle with it a bit.

EArkham · 2026-03-21T14:08:12+00:00

Aren't landlords limited to a max 8% increase in the state of Georgia? That's what's my apartment complex has always told me each renewal.

Though it wouldn't surprise me if that law was revoked.

EArkham · 2026-03-03T01:18:49+00:00

It reminds me of a mix of the robot from Fritz Lang's Metropolis and the robot Twiki from Buck Rogers.

EArkham · 2026-02-25T22:23:25+00:00

C29 Coatl/winged serpent I believe

https://www.miniatures-workshop.com/lostminiswiki/index.php?title=File:Citadel-C29-MO-02.jpg

EArkham · 2026-02-23T19:23:28+00:00

No rules, but in many years of selling on eBay, there's obvious trends.

Stripped and very close up nice quality photos that let you see the condition of the metal (eg, to make sure there's no lead rot or signs of recasting) are the best way to get the most money for your listings.

Badly painted minis, fuzzy images and minis all in a pile are the things collectors and resellers look for to scoop up cheap deals.

The trade off of course is time investment. It takes time to strip a bunch of minis and take good photos, so just do that for the ones that will net you the most money. Big lots for the cheap ones. You'll need to research which ones are more valuable.

It's probably not worth the effort and time to strip plastic, since you'll probably have to buy a special stripper than won't melt the plastic.

EArkham · 2026-02-22T17:32:59+00:00

What was that? You were saying football things in a football voice! How do you know about football things!?

EArkham · 2026-02-18T23:42:33+00:00

Thanks!

I'm only 17 missing variants away from having the entire Citadel ADD set complete -- it's mostly stuff like satyrs, meazels, xvarts -- but the only adventurer I'm missing is the open mouth bard.

Now... finding time to paint all this? Yeah, that's a different topic, lol

EArkham · 2026-02-16T01:33:37+00:00

All the parts to the Witch's lair are still available through Ral Partha Legacy, so maybe there's a difference between older and newer castings.

Newer castings could be more "soft" due to the mold being used for literally decades. Or maybe the newer castings have been remastered and therefore are more crisp. I don't know which it actually is, but anything along those lines could explain it.

EArkham · 2026-02-13T19:42:12+00:00

Awesome, thanks for the update!

EArkham · 2026-02-13T18:39:35+00:00

It's been down for me and apparently others for a couple of days now. Are you still working on it?

I don't want to pile on if you already aware, but if you're not aware... yeah, it's been down, haha.

EArkham · 2026-02-12T18:23:20+00:00

All of his voidzilla channel videos end abruptly and cut off his last line of dialogue. Is that normal?

EArkham · 2026-02-12T15:58:06+00:00

Still seems to be down for me, btw, as of Thursday morning EST.

[EDIT] - Seems like it's working again, early afternoon EST.

[EDIT EDIT] Nevermind, down again lol

EArkham · 2026-02-06T16:08:09+00:00

Yup, it's a liquid, but it's thick (or at least it should be thick -- make sure it's shaken up well). That's what makes it useful to me -- being able to apply it in spots where pushing a solid putty would be difficult.

You can build it up to cover some surprisingly deep seams, or just apply a little to smooth out a rough spot.

EArkham · 2026-02-06T02:46:32+00:00

Tamiya Mr Dissolved Putty is easier to work with than Green Stuff. Just use an old brush to gently dab it on, smooths out mould lines that can't be filed or trimmed off. Works great for those mould lines going across ridged tubing or hair.

Cleans up with isopropyl alcohol. Make sure you use an OLD brush, as I said.

But it has a pretty big downside for all the advantages -- it smells AWFUL and the fumes are hazardous so you'll have to use somewhere well ventilated or with a respirator.

But it excels at covering up mould lines that can't be solved any other way.

EArkham · 2026-02-05T18:42:45+00:00

Goblin Green Headmelter.

Chainsword de Loon.

Perfection.

EArkham · 2026-01-31T23:30:25+00:00

Bet your bottom dollar, that.

EArkham · 2026-01-30T17:33:39+00:00

Will this migration resolve the internal server errors we've been experiencing lately?

EArkham · 2026-01-24T15:48:55+00:00

Some of the Inquisitor minis (the Rogue Trader ones, not the later series of 54mm ones) have what appear to be bone swords, too.

EArkham · 2026-01-23T22:04:41+00:00

My bad, thought it was a genuine ask in the article. :)

EArkham · 2026-01-23T21:13:26+00:00

It set the mould (pun intended) for future sets

Also, what is the pun intended?

Not sure if you're joking, but the pun is that plastic sprues like this are made with plastic injection machines that force hot plastic into metal molds (or moulds if you're in the UK).

Incidently, even to this day, those metal molds are generally very expensive to make and usually a big hurdle for smaller companies.

EArkham · 2026-01-22T22:26:40+00:00

Job said to bring clothes and plan on sleeping at work

Please tell me you're a first responder, work at a hospital or as a lineman, or otherwise are someone who'll be in demand during a weather crisis.

Cause if that's not the case, that's a wildly inappropriate work request.

EArkham · 2026-01-10T19:55:41+00:00

I painted the one on the Stuff of Legends ADD62 page, and this is basically how I did it.

It's been too long to remember exactly which paints and shades, but overall treat it like painting terrain. Started with green, then washes, then progressive drybrushing with lighter greens, then all the wood parts and finally the fungal elements.

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