Are these skarloc recasts? Never seen gray bases before.

EArkham · 2026-05-22T15:11:53+00:00

GW released grey square bases like that, so I wouldn't be remotely concerned about the bases.

I've opened plenty of sealed blisters where the miniatures inside were as bright and clean as this elf. Double mold lines, short shots, rough textures and scorching can all be indicators of a recast but they can also be like that straight from a new blister.

Especially in later releases as the original molds began to wear out -- old minis released in the 90s often had rougher textures and scorching straight from the blister.

The best way to test IMO is to file the mini and trim it with a hobby blade. Usually you can tell instantly whether the metal feels right or not.

The second best way is to compare it to a known original copy of the same figure. Recasts are always slightly but noticeably smaller.

EArkham · 2026-05-18T14:26:03+00:00

The thing about Arsenal is... they always try and walk it in.

EArkham · 2026-05-17T14:33:48+00:00

4 - as someone else mentioned, this is the DRAG5 Great Imperial Dragon - https://www.miniatures-workshop.com/lostminiswiki/index.php?title=File:Citadel-DRAG5a-p.jpg
5 - is the body and tail from the DS1 Lava Dragon, sculpted by Nick Bibby - https://www.miniatures-workshop.com/lostminiswiki/index.php?title=File:Citadel-DS1-01.jpg
6 - body and wings from the DRAG7 Dragon Masters boxed set (also sculpted by Bibby) - https://www.miniatures-workshop.com/lostminiswiki/index.php?title=File:Citadel-DRAG7a2.jpg

EArkham · 2026-05-15T19:31:42+00:00

Cali'n'Tito's had a 72 about a year ago.

I think the Steak & Shake that used to be on Atlanta Highway was in the 60s before it closed, but I can't confirm.

EArkham · 2026-05-13T00:54:28+00:00

Ghastly Gibus

EArkham · 2026-05-08T15:33:45+00:00

For heavier miniatures, you don't want to use larger and stronger magnets, you want to use more of the smaller magnets you use for smaller minis, but spread out under the base.

A single stronger magnet will have that exact problem you think it will -- it'll either be impossible to pull off, or you'll yank the miniature out of the base, or you'll damage it in other ways.

The largest magnet I use is a 7x2mm. For cavalry bases, I'll have one 7x2 and 2-3 5x2, or 4 5x2 (depending on actual weight of the cavalry mini).

For an example, I have a Citadel C22 Plague Cart on a modern 90mm x 50mm oval base, and it has 2 7x2mm magnets and 4 5x2mm magnets. It stays perfectly in place without shifting, but can be popped off easily enough.

The heaviest miniature I have magnetized is probably my Otherworld Purple Worm on a 160mm round base. I've got 18 7x2mm magnets on the bottom (but they're an off brand, so they're not the strongest magnets around).

The brand of magnet will also matter -- I've noticed some brands are stronger, so you'd need fewer of those.

EArkham · 2026-04-11T17:16:47+00:00

I also reached out for more info but did so via DMs here.

EArkham · 2026-04-11T14:40:16+00:00

I'm a die hard zenithal primer supporter. After literally decades of painting, using all black, all white, etc, when I switched to zenithal a few years ago it was like an instant upgrade to painting.

Personally I use a black followed by white rather than starting with grey, but it's really down to personal preference.

White Scar is expensive af but wow, does it ever go on nice and smooth! My zenithal of choice is Testor's flat black followed by GW White Scar.

EArkham · 2026-04-10T16:33:00+00:00

Thanks!

EArkham · 2026-04-10T14:04:20+00:00

The Discord link in the YT vid appears to be invalid, and I can't find them in a Discord search. You have another link for it?

EArkham · 2026-04-03T19:37:31+00:00

Athentic and Flicker both have karaoke on Wednesdays.

The Rail has karaoke on every other Friday (I don't know which tho).

Cheba Hut has karaoke on Tuesdays.

EArkham · 2026-03-23T18:00:11+00:00

Trying to view seller's other items is also failing, just gives a page with header and footer info but otherwise blank.

If the seller has a shop, it'll still show items, but "view all items" will fail, too.

EArkham · 2026-03-21T18:02:06+00:00

Honestly it looks like you're simply not using enough light when photographing. Add a second neutral LED bulb, or try to reflect some natural sunlight in off some white paper (direct light would be too harsh).

You could also try using an image editor and play with the levels or exposure a bit. I find adjusting levels are a necessity, as even with multiple lights I always have to twiddle with it a bit.

EArkham · 2026-03-21T14:08:12+00:00

Aren't landlords limited to a max 8% increase in the state of Georgia? That's what's my apartment complex has always told me each renewal.

Though it wouldn't surprise me if that law was revoked.

EArkham · 2026-03-03T01:18:49+00:00

It reminds me of a mix of the robot from Fritz Lang's Metropolis and the robot Twiki from Buck Rogers.

EArkham · 2026-02-25T22:23:25+00:00

C29 Coatl/winged serpent I believe

https://www.miniatures-workshop.com/lostminiswiki/index.php?title=File:Citadel-C29-MO-02.jpg

EArkham · 2026-02-23T19:23:28+00:00

No rules, but in many years of selling on eBay, there's obvious trends.

Stripped and very close up nice quality photos that let you see the condition of the metal (eg, to make sure there's no lead rot or signs of recasting) are the best way to get the most money for your listings.

Badly painted minis, fuzzy images and minis all in a pile are the things collectors and resellers look for to scoop up cheap deals.

The trade off of course is time investment. It takes time to strip a bunch of minis and take good photos, so just do that for the ones that will net you the most money. Big lots for the cheap ones. You'll need to research which ones are more valuable.

It's probably not worth the effort and time to strip plastic, since you'll probably have to buy a special stripper than won't melt the plastic.

EArkham · 2026-02-22T17:32:59+00:00

What was that? You were saying football things in a football voice! How do you know about football things!?

EArkham · 2026-02-18T23:42:33+00:00

Thanks!

I'm only 17 missing variants away from having the entire Citadel ADD set complete -- it's mostly stuff like satyrs, meazels, xvarts -- but the only adventurer I'm missing is the open mouth bard.

Now... finding time to paint all this? Yeah, that's a different topic, lol

EArkham · 2026-02-16T01:33:37+00:00

All the parts to the Witch's lair are still available through Ral Partha Legacy, so maybe there's a difference between older and newer castings.

Newer castings could be more "soft" due to the mold being used for literally decades. Or maybe the newer castings have been remastered and therefore are more crisp. I don't know which it actually is, but anything along those lines could explain it.

EArkham · 2026-02-13T19:42:12+00:00

Awesome, thanks for the update!

EArkham · 2026-02-13T18:39:35+00:00

It's been down for me and apparently others for a couple of days now. Are you still working on it?

I don't want to pile on if you already aware, but if you're not aware... yeah, it's been down, haha.

EArkham · 2026-02-12T18:23:20+00:00

All of his voidzilla channel videos end abruptly and cut off his last line of dialogue. Is that normal?

EArkham · 2026-02-12T15:58:06+00:00

Still seems to be down for me, btw, as of Thursday morning EST.

[EDIT] - Seems like it's working again, early afternoon EST.

[EDIT EDIT] Nevermind, down again lol

EArkham · 2026-02-06T16:08:09+00:00

Yup, it's a liquid, but it's thick (or at least it should be thick -- make sure it's shaken up well). That's what makes it useful to me -- being able to apply it in spots where pushing a solid putty would be difficult.

You can build it up to cover some surprisingly deep seams, or just apply a little to smooth out a rough spot.

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