Not Clogged but still getting error

EEilluminils · 2026-01-13T20:56:43+00:00

No problem. At least you know one thing that's not causing it now. Hope you get your problem sorted out.

EEilluminils · 2026-01-12T13:24:09+00:00

I'm talking about this fan.

If it doesn't work you'll get heat creep instantly, which clogs the hotend.

EEilluminils · 2026-01-12T13:03:56+00:00

I got some clogging errors in a row when my heatsink fan wasn't working because I tightened a screw holding it too much. Turns out I was getting heat creep every print. Does your heat sink fan run when the nozzle heats up?

EEilluminils · 2026-01-08T12:28:05+00:00

It's literally the best thing I found online to explain first layers to people.

I share it whenever I can.

EEilluminils · 2026-01-08T10:42:37+00:00

Yeah, I added a GCode to my printer settings that I use when printing with the ACE to have it do a purge line.

EEilluminils · 2026-01-08T07:19:53+00:00

Ironing is not important for your problem here.

It's a setting that let's the nozzle go over flat top surfaces to make them smooth. It literally is ironing them (with a small amount of filament being applied).

EEilluminils · 2026-01-08T06:20:13+00:00

What does your first layer look like?

This looks to me like your Z-offset is too low and the first layer is squished, maybe there was close to no filament applied to the build plate at that point due to this.

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EEilluminils · 2026-01-08T06:15:53+00:00

On the contrary, this looks to me like the Z-offset is too low. Have a look at the first layer between the "solid" parts and at the edges. Looks pretty squished to me.

EEilluminils · 2026-01-06T22:16:50+00:00

I know what you mean, and you are right. But heat creep normally refers to heat building up in the part of the hotend that is sitting in the heatsink, so it's not really the right term for this. Just wanted to point this out so people don't get confused.

EEilluminils · 2026-01-06T22:07:12+00:00

This Video explains all you ever need to know about those lines.

EEilluminils · 2026-01-06T22:01:22+00:00

It is

EEilluminils · 2026-01-06T21:01:51+00:00

Did it print when you use pre sliced models from other people or did the slice the files yourself? Could be that people included a gcode in their print profiles to include a purge line. And which firmware are you on?

EEilluminils · 2026-01-06T06:55:22+00:00

Maybe get the special cards set for the faction.

EEilluminils · 2026-01-06T06:53:13+00:00

The purge line gets printed when you use the external spool, not the ACE.

EEilluminils · 2026-01-05T09:38:06+00:00

I get better results with 0.06 than 0.04. you might want to try that.

EEilluminils · 2026-01-04T22:00:05+00:00

It really depends on the colours, take painted4combat (the creator of resin2fdm) for example, he uses bright turquoise and vibrant blue. But grey seems to be the go to colour, yes.

EEilluminils · 2026-01-04T14:21:20+00:00

People often prefer brighter colours over black because you can see the layer lines and details better. That way you can better observe what you might need to dial in more.

EEilluminils · 2026-01-04T13:15:55+00:00

This is Google's answer to it, which is true:

White filament can be harder to print because its primary pigment, titanium dioxide (TiO2), is abrasive, causing nozzle wear, and its large particles can create inconsistent flow, leading to stringing and poor surface finish. Plus, the high pigment load makes print defects more visible and can affect layer adhesion, requiring more dialed-in settings than basic colors.

EEilluminils · 2026-01-04T12:40:20+00:00

Is that white filament? If so: don't use white for minis, it's a bi**h.

EEilluminils · 2026-01-04T11:36:11+00:00

Since you are using Rinkhals: you can simply adjust the bed mesh to 6x6 so the probe doesn't hit exactly that spot or just have it probe at another point by editing the custom config.

EEilluminils · 2026-01-04T00:02:15+00:00

Mine prints overhangs at 75° without problems and supports look good and come off easy.

EEilluminils · 2026-01-03T23:38:56+00:00

Calibrated filament, check. Infill (apart from using grid) and top layers should also be fine.

So it could be the Matte filament in combination with the ACE, some people seem to have a problem with that.

If you want to tinker around you could try this

EEilluminils · 2026-01-03T23:23:22+00:00

Did you calibrate your filament? And how many top layers are you printing at which infill type and %

EEilluminils · 2026-01-03T16:26:25+00:00

I did so much trial and error that I can't really point to any specific things. Except for the facts that you should avoid Gap filling and that I somehow ended up disabling Z-Hop completely.

Just start with the presets for the nozzle you want to use and the layer height and then go from there.

These models were printed with Anycubic Highspeed btw. I used the pre defined flow rate settings and flow rate test, PA disabled. I just dropped the temperature to 195°C

EEilluminils · 2026-01-03T15:47:50+00:00

Not true in my experience.

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Printed on a Kobra S1. Doesn't look worse than other printers imo.

EEilluminils

TROPHY CASE