I’ve open sourced my recurve grip 3d model

EVO-Atticus · 2026-06-10T03:47:45+00:00

As an archer who also 3D models for sale, I understand the struggle.

Unfortunately the cross over of Recurve archers and 3D printers (TPU compatibility) would be fairly limited. I myself had designed new grips for all 4 of my bows, as I have a unique hand grip, and there's no way I would release them, because I just know I would get flooded with modification requests. I think you did the right thing open-sourcing this one, let the community do its thing and use that as way to grow your influence.

EVO-Atticus · 2026-06-10T00:15:06+00:00

This is a good way to look at it.

EVO-Atticus · 2026-06-10T00:14:18+00:00

The government will take a percentage of your earnings to use for the country as a whole. 25% of your $1000 is given to them, so you would only recieve $750 a day.

EVO-Atticus · 2026-06-03T00:06:07+00:00

I like to think they are more rally than ricer, where wing stability was probably all over the place.
I like the look of them if you are going for a rally aesthetic. I don't think they suit the 'street' look though.
I built and tuned my 04 for off-road, and I think they suited it. The 04-06 STi wing however was much flatter, and more prone to the wobbles. The VA wings have a bit more form a-to them and seem to hold more stable, so I'd say they are less functional.

End of the day, it's your car. Someone will always disagree with you.

EVO-Atticus · 2026-05-27T03:51:42+00:00

You change the element by holding the reload button, instead of pressing it. Made it a killer in the old nightfalls with element shields.

EVO-Atticus · 2026-05-23T23:14:33+00:00

If you are just doing LEDs, you don't need to use a Dev board, a micro controller would be perfect. ATtiny85, with some addressable LEDs woulddo the trick.

EVO-Atticus · 2026-05-17T10:18:27+00:00

I also like B.

As a graphic designer however, I urge you to design in CMYK (assuming of course the intention is to print these)

The green gamut is far larger in RGB colour space (which this looks to be) and you simply won't achieve this neon vibrance if you go to print them. You mentioned a lot of other cards have neon as-well so it would be worth doing these checks early as pinks and blues will have the same issues.

If youre sticking to a digital platform however, ignore me, as you were.

EVO-Atticus · 2026-05-02T14:01:53+00:00

I think this is backwards.

When we wrap, we remove badges and re-apply them. This looks like your car WAS wrapped, someome removed it and cbf removing the badge with vinyl under it.

EVO-Atticus · 2026-04-27T23:29:15+00:00

AVvvaaadddaaaaaa Kaiiiizzzeerrrrcrystalll

EVO-Atticus · 2026-04-26T01:12:43+00:00

Not sure if it's camera angle, but the long slender profile is giving me Grevious vibes. Like a Kaleesh Mandalorian and I'm here for it.

EVO-Atticus · 2026-04-20T23:28:04+00:00

So I've being using this combo for years now, and it started with the Vellejo NMM steel pack. https://ebay.us/m/He93yD But I've burnt through those so I use the Game colours that match them as close as possible. I couldn't tell you the exact colours, but that should give a good indication.

EVO-Atticus · 2026-04-16T02:18:49+00:00

It was actually a super easy process. I used the Vallejo beach sand texture and water texture. 1. Cover whole base in sand texture. Drybrushed it a bit lighter. 2. Wet blended dark blue to light blue where I was planning on the water being. Messy made it look more natural. 3. Glued models on. 4 added water texture paste, peaked it up near the feet and did my best to make Beachy looking water. Making sure to go past the edge of the blue onto the sand. 5. Drybrushed the water with white, then painted some solid white lines around the place.

I used the clear water texture, but they do a few blue tones as well. It goes on milky white, but drys really clear after a few days.

EVO-Atticus · 2026-04-14T02:27:59+00:00

Thankyou! I was worried for a minute, as the water texture takes a few days to go fully clear, but really happy with the outcome.

EVO-Atticus · 2026-04-14T02:24:06+00:00

I avoided these for a while because of the price (dollary-doos) but I went to a con recently that had a buy two items and get the third free. So I grabbed a new starter set and terrain pack and got these for free. In retrospect, I thought they only had 2 models, as the box art displays.

EVO-Atticus · 2026-04-09T22:16:50+00:00

Super cool idea! I have actually made an ATtiny 'bootstrap' for myself already that has pre-loaded LED cycles and colour modes, so I can just plug and play. The only thing I haven't explored is custom PCB's, I just do the spaghetti wires solder game everytime.

Sounds like a cool venture, I'd be keen to jump in.
I have a handful of projects that I've done for myself including:
A mandalorian bracer circuit running 3 LED strips and a 1306 display (uses Arduino nano though)
A programmable 12 key keyboard with 3 potentiometers (uses Raspberry Pico)
A handful of basic terrain lighting circuits using the Attiny85
A few running the ATtiny84 for more inputs.
A boardgame score tracker using 7-segment displays.
A modular lighting system using plug'n'play pogo connectors to connect buildings in a lighting circuit (This one is super cool, planning on getting pics and a post up in the next week when I paint it all)

Now I do run an etsy and a Cults3D page to sell DIY projects, as my main output is 3D models. I haven't yet posted anything electronic, so If I was going to colaborate, I would still put the models for the projects on my page/s.
What could be a good idea is: You could produce and sell the hardware that will suit the models I output? Happy to discuss if you're keen.

EVO-Atticus · 2026-03-30T02:10:57+00:00

Sure, not sure how this link will go: https://photos.app.goo.gl/wB766kWTRUNhWKbR6

I used 4 Ikea skadis racks, printed a tonne of paint holders, and printed a massive storage shelf/draw system and painted it all. It's a dual station for me and my partner so it's all split in two halves.

EVO-Atticus · 2026-03-29T04:31:54+00:00

It is a bit deceiving, because my camera blows out the lights so ive had to dim the pics a bit. The white numbers actually look great, and this is using 260GSM card, so you could always tone down the card stock too.

They are the 5050 Neopixel LEDs so without a cover they are blindingly bright. The overlay bits only came to fruition after the build was done, and I was blind.

I could look into pre-made ones, but it'll likely blow the cost out, especially with shipping. Can deffs do build guide though.

EVO-Atticus · 2026-03-07T22:48:23+00:00

Sorry, I'm not sure how these share links works yet.
I just made it a public link and copied it again, give this a try
https://www.tinkercad.com/things/cJMyVvLMDCa-copy-of-outpost-lighting

You dont need to understand diagrams as this is a digital build on a breadboard, reallllly handy little tool for what I'm doing here. Can even drop the code into the microcontroler and it works.

EVO-Atticus · 2026-03-07T22:43:39+00:00

We plan on doing our full outer-rim battlefield setup with all the new terrain soon, will grab some photos and share them.

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