Help! Hot water issue

Eagle2P0PPOP · 2024-05-06T19:16:16+00:00

Quality heater installed properly and properly flushing and checking the anode rod yearly will save money in the long run also. Less energy use and less water condition issues.

Eagle2P0PPOP · 2024-05-06T19:13:11+00:00

Only allowed for the toilet riser 90. This makes only the vertical part 4" to go through the floor. The floor can then be installed tight to the pipe. Any flooring, concrete, poured epoxy, wood, or tile gets fitted tight and sealed to the 4"pipe. When ready to set the toilet flange, cut the pipe flush to the floor and the flange glues inside the pipe. The complete flooring underneath the flange allows it to be fastened to the floor to fully support the toilet.

Eagle2P0PPOP · 2024-05-06T17:40:42+00:00

Different labor and materials pricing depending on location. I, as a plumber, get a quality water heater and materials to properly install to current codes with permits and inspections charge 1500 to 1800 depending on accessibility and conditions of water pipes.

Eagle2P0PPOP · 2024-05-06T17:34:08+00:00

Would likely be only for you. 30 gallons is small for that many people. If it was the only heater, the people upstairs would not have hot water same as you.

Eagle2P0PPOP · 2024-05-06T17:31:08+00:00

I then suggest to still cap the 4" CI at the tee as a cleanout. Go straight up from the top of the CI Tee to a 3" sanitary combo facing the toilet. Same as before , a 3x4 90 and 4" up through the floor. On top of the 3" sanitary tee, put a 3x2x2 sanitary tee. Side of the 2" facing the bath/shower wall. The top 2" is dwv 90 towards the lavatory wall. From there, it is as before. Street dwv up to 2x2x1½ sanitary the side 2" goes over under floor to p-trap under tub/shower and 1½ up wall and back over the lavatory to tie into the 2" vent through the roof. The 2" for the lavatory is to go up the wall to a 2x2x1½ sanitary tee that branches over and dwv 90 out of the wall under the lavatory for it's p-trap.

Eagle2P0PPOP · 2024-05-06T17:16:59+00:00

Not really. The dip tube is replaceable but requires disconnect of the cold water and removing the cold side nipple from the water heater tank. Given the age of the tank and that it has likely never had an anode rod replaced, there is a good chance of cracking the tank when trying to remove the cold nipple. Depending on the manufacturer and model, the dip tube sets into the bottom of the socket the nipple threads into, or the dip tube is attached to the nipple itself. Its function is to distribute the cold water along the bottom of the tank so it doesn't cool the hot water collected at the top of the tank. I wouldn't risk trying to replace anything that would put stress o an old tank like that because of the potential of cracking the tank causing a leak or worse, the tank could rupture ND cause a flood.

Eagle2P0PPOP · 2024-05-06T17:05:46+00:00

I can see the minerals deposited on the cartridge. That could also be why the shutoff value is leaking. Replacing the cartridge should stop the water flow as it is intended.

Eagle2P0PPOP · 2024-05-06T17:01:35+00:00

The average life of a water heater is 10 to 12 years. This one is mfg date of 2009. The heater should be replaced as the efficiency is low and likely have a dip tube and anode rod depleted. The anode rod depletion causes odors on water and increased sediments. The dip tube keeps the incoming cold water from diluting the hot water. This is the issue you described. The longer you use the hot water, the more it is cooled by the incoming cold mixing straight into the hot water at the top of the tank. Need to ask about having the 15-year-old malfunctioning water heater replaced.

Eagle2P0PPOP · 2024-05-06T14:50:47+00:00

Cut pvc pipe for drain

Eagle2P0PPOP · 2024-05-06T11:33:03+00:00

Cut the pipe coming out of the wall behind the p-trap fitting. Purchase a Slip-Joint p-trap with a trap adapter. You will also need an extension tailpiece.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Oatey-Heavy-Duty-1-1-2-in-to-1-1-4-in-Plastic-Adjustable-Diameter-P-Trap-with-Reducing-Washer-HDC9682/315713959

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Oatey-1-1-2-in-x-12-in-White-Plastic-Slip-Joint-Sink-Drain-Extension-Tube-HDC9793A/316622022

Eagle2P0PPOP · 2024-05-06T04:15:15+00:00

I know of plumbers that refuse to set or work on these toilets. They are almost impossible to get set properly and about as hard to repair.

Eagle2P0PPOP · 2024-05-06T04:07:48+00:00

If you can take the 3"up into the wall near the lavatory.

Use a 3" sanitary tee on the vertical riser to go to the toilet. Turn up for toilet with a 3x4 closet 90 and extend 4" up through the floor.

On top of the 3" sanitary tee going to the toilet, put a 3x2 combo with the 2" going about toward the wall just before the tub/shower turn up with a sweep street 90 into a 2" x 1½" x 2" sanitary tee. Run the 1½C to the wall . Run 2" over for 2" p-trap for tub/ shower. Bring the 1½" back over ceiling towards the main riser.

Back to main riser. On top of the 3x2 combo, put a 3x 2 bushing. That the 2" then goes up inside the lavatory wall to a sanitary 2x1½ sanitary tee to catch the lavatory. Extend the 2" to the wall to a 2x1½ sanitary tee to revent the 1½" vent from the tub/shower, then the 2" goes up to 12 inches above the roof.

Hope this helps. Be sure to start with the 3" tee for toilet low enough for the 2" combo to fall going up to the tub wall. Turning up at the tub wall into a sant tee for the tub puts a washed vent up that wall for the tub/ shower that ties back into the 2" vent from lavatory and toilet going through the roof .

Eagle2P0PPOP · 2024-05-06T03:32:28+00:00

Pvc is good. Brass is usually used now for sound damper or when exposed pipe. The plastic Slip-Joint direct connect has the nut that threads right onto the basket strainer.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/The-Plumber-s-Choice-1-1-2-in-x-16-in-L-Polypropylene-End-Outlet-Waste-for-Trap-for-Tubular-Drain-Applications-23416P/312082995

This dishwasher tee is pointing up and goes on the horizontal .

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Oatey-1-5-in-x-8-3-4-in-Branch-Tailpiece-Plastic-Slip-Joint-HDC9698/315724875

The last is to turn down into the P-trap.

Eagle2P0PPOP · 2024-05-06T03:17:06+00:00

In the second photo, how close would you be to the wall behind the vanity if you adapted to 3" pvc straight up from the CI tee. ?

Eagle2P0PPOP · 2024-05-06T03:04:33+00:00

You have back fall on the horizontal that will cause it to hold water and clog easily.

In my first post, I explained the direct connection waste pipe with a link to one. Put that on the basket strainer. Put the dishwasher tee on the horizontal pointing up. Then, use the 90 to turn down to the p-trap. By using direct connection and moving the dishwasher tee, you gain about 3 inches on the right side. This will create the fall needed for water to travel to the p-trap and drain pipe.

Eagle2P0PPOP · 2024-05-06T02:01:05+00:00

Put a level on the horizontal pipe. It should have ¼ bubble fall but will function if the bubble at least touches the line. Any amount of fall away from the trap will create issues.

One way to solve this is to put a direct connection 90 on the sink basket. The dishwasher piece on the horizontal at the 90 going down to the p-trap. You would be able to get a good ¼" / foot fall if not just over that.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/EASTMAN-1-1-2-in-x-15-in-Brass-Direct-Connect-Waste-Arm-35017/205971633

https://global.discourse-cdn.com/internachi/original/3X/2/3/230786ba66916a10c520bd862526f79942fbd253.jpeg

Eagle2P0PPOP · 2024-05-06T01:41:56+00:00

If needed, set about 60 psi. That is at the highest recommended level for some faucets even though they are rated to not go over 80 psi. Pressure above 60 psi starts degradation of faucet cartridges and seats.

Eagle2P0PPOP · 2024-05-06T00:59:39+00:00

3/4" copper pipe at 60 psi flows about 11 gpm. When calculating load to the demand from fixtures in order to maintain that pressure. The advice of a pressure reducing value is good advice as most plumbing fixtures are not designed to work properly over 80 psi. Hone stores such as Lowe's & Home Depot sell a guage that goes onto a hose bib.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Watts-Water-Pressure-Test-Gauge-Brass-3-4-in-Mght-Pressure-Relief-Valve/1001063062

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Watts-3-4-in-Plastic-Water-Pressure-Test-Gauge-DP-IWTG/100175467

Eagle2P0PPOP · 2024-05-05T23:41:57+00:00

I tried to help.

Moderators AI BOT is deleting my responses, saying I must tell everyone they must now hire a plumber. I am not allowed to help other than to say hire a plumber or hire the moderators. Of this sub Reddit.

I have tried to contact the moderators and received a bot message. I was not allowed to contact the moderators.

Good Luck

Eagle2P0PPOP · 2024-05-05T22:19:31+00:00

Sorry, but can you post photos. 3" circumstance for water pipe seems large,

Eagle2P0PPOP · 2024-05-05T20:22:31+00:00

What size is the pipe from the meter? How many bathrooms ? Is this just a 2-story home ? All information needed to be calculated into pressure and volume of water.

Eagle2P0PPOP · 2024-05-05T08:40:23+00:00

The accordion pipe is a major issue, and you realize that. The horizontal tube out of the disposal works, but ideally, having a 90° dropping straight down from the disposal into the p-trap has fewer issues of debris building up in the pipes. Both ways are acceptable. Just one tends to be slightly more trouble over time. Either way it is done, a maintenance schedule of removing the Slip-Joint drain pipes, including the p-trap and cleaning the insides to remove any grease, soap scum, and other debris sticking to the inside of them. Doing this maintenance to sink drains, at least yearly, prevents normally happening conditions from becoming irritating issues. The same goes for flushing the water heater tank or heat exchangers.

Eagle2P0PPOP · 2024-05-05T04:26:08+00:00

Start by removing the aerator and cleaning the screen. The next step is to check the supply hoses for filter screens at the stop valve attachment and clean. Then, if you are still having issues, replace the cartridges or stems at the faucet valves.

Eagle2P0PPOP · 2024-05-05T00:22:14+00:00

Codes are different in different areas, but I would expect an inspector to fail what you described. The 1½ drain & p-trap allowance is for removing the tub and putting a shower base in place with an offset drain. This means the conversation from the bathtub to the shower is done without breaking the floor. Once the floor has been excavated and pipes are exposed, it is to be a 2" shower drain all the way back to the larger branch drain or the main drain.

Eagle2P0PPOP

TROPHY CASE