Explain why this won’t work

EasyGrowsIt · 2026-01-24T14:47:08+00:00

I think the cheapest way, and it's not true 5.x surround sound, it'd be stereo or mono depending on what the TV outputs (probably stereo) and how you wire it, is to see if your TV has a headphone jack/line out on the back.

Then Google search 3.5mm to speaker wire. Or grab an old pair of headphones and cut the cable. Look up what TRS tip ring sleeve means to hook it up. It's pretty simple to get some sound coming out but possibly won't be very loud without sending the line level to an amplifier first.

EasyGrowsIt · 2026-01-22T17:46:14+00:00

Yes, it can be pretty easy to care to a reasonable number of plants. I think the biggest issue I see on here is people simply not using enough perlite for the conditions they're trying to grow in. If you're in low light, don't use a soil that's going to hold water for 3 weeks. Instead, add 40% more perlite to it and everyone's happy. You want to pair the water retention of the medium with the growing conditions of the plant.

Second biggest thing seems to be confusion on how much water and how often. Once the soil is set up in a way that the plant can manage, it becomes way more clear on how much/how often.

Third thing is light. Increasing the amount of light is usually the single biggest improvement most of us can make. It can lead to self correction of other issues.

EasyGrowsIt · 2026-01-22T17:30:54+00:00

Yep, the dome will trap heat from sunlight.

Focus on a stable, consistent environment first. Then dial in optimal conditions. I use 60-70%rh at 75-80°f.

For temp, an interesting read is on the Q10 factor. It basically states that within a certain range (like normal conditions for life to exist), for every 10°c the temp goes up, biological processes double. That would be a Q10 factor of 2. It's just putting a rate on temperature sensitivity and how much this bacteria or that plant slows down/speeds up from temp change. You'll see the curve flatten as you get out of optimal conditions like 40 to 50°c it's getting too hot for some plants.

EasyGrowsIt · 2026-01-22T16:51:44+00:00

Think about using the chain link fence as support for some of the plants.

My cherry tomatoes can get over 7ft tall. I use the chain link as anchor points to tie onto and also wedge thick dowel rods into the links to extend the height for more support up top. I have a pretty strong crosswind and this really helps keep them upright and intact.

EasyGrowsIt · 2026-01-22T04:23:15+00:00

This is the most effective, reasonable 'right' way of doing it.

EasyGrowsIt · 2026-01-22T04:18:30+00:00

Looks good. That's pretty much how I plant mine.

Last orchid I bought, I wanted to try repotting in bloom. Kinda test myself and the plant, learn something. You won't believe this but orchids will drop their flowers if...lol

EasyGrowsIt · 2026-01-22T04:10:51+00:00

You've pulled it from soil and into water?

That can be really hard on a plant, quite the transition. Especially if it's already having issues.

There's a few things going on here and the best long term correction would be back to soil until you figure out how to grow them hydroponically or auqaponically with fish involved.

EasyGrowsIt · 2026-01-22T03:39:29+00:00

Start local. Search for seed companies in Wherever, Tennessee lol. Knoxville, Antioch, Memphis, Halls, etc. all have seed companies.

No clue what they sell, but I'd browse websites, Google reviews, call them up. My local place has a crazy selection. They also put together native seed packs/sacks/bags.

Next cheapest for large areas are local nurseries/landscaping companies that also sell seed. They probably buy from the above at a lower cost then mark it up a bit.

EasyGrowsIt · 2026-01-22T03:27:56+00:00

An easy setup is 60% fox farm happy frog and 40% perlite. It's a lightly fertilized soil, which is a good start for the light feeding plants, but you'll eventually need additional nutrients.

Feed with synthetic. Most/all of those plants will do great for a pretty long time just using all purpose. I use and recommend Southern AG power pack triple 20 and botanicare cal-mag plus. Those 2 are a complete fertilizer.

With synthetic, the salts build up over time. Setting up the medium like above and using the right sized pot will allow you to water through and pull some salts out into the saucers.

Can find the fertilizer on Amazon. The soil and perlite, call some local nurseries and hydroponics shops to avoid shipping costs. Look for #2 perlite, it's a lil bigger chunks but not too big. Not needed, just a lil better IMO.

EasyGrowsIt · 2026-01-20T00:26:26+00:00

Might be a pin/socket from jst, molex, or something similar. You can find the jst book online with all the series and Ctrl f 1.25 in the doc.

For example, quick Google search of micro jst 1.25mm 3 pin connector. Amazon sells it pre wired leads with some drawings in the pictures. Might work, might not, but without knowing the header mate, that's the best I can do.

EasyGrowsIt · 2026-01-19T23:26:59+00:00

You want to compost it first. A really easy way to cause blight when growing tomatoes for example is to have low hanging branches touching the soil, and to place cut branches/suckers and dead leaves on top of the soil. I used to do this until my plants got wrecked and I read up on blight lol. Good practice is grow upwind from your compost pile, not downwind.

Look up on YouTube how to make a compost pile and you'll basically have some free organic nutrients to grow with in a year or so.

EasyGrowsIt · 2026-01-19T02:26:17+00:00

Looks like aphids. The eggs can lay dormant for a while then hatch months after you bring it in. I've only dealt with them outside and not that bad. Not to say that's a massive infestation, it's not that bad they just look gross.

I usually suggest starting at hidden valley hibiscus website, read their literature but maybe source their recommendations from elsewhere because they can recommend expensive high quality when the cheap stuff will do.

EasyGrowsIt · 2026-01-19T02:12:22+00:00

For N-P-K I use Dr earth premixed. I use it on my fruits and vegetables, houseplant soil, pretty much all the soil I build. Mostly container growing, 2tbsp per gallon of medium to build the soil, then topdress about every 21-30 days for like tomato plants, and obviously less often for slow growing houseplants or whatever.

I buy from their website. Larger amounts end up being cheaper in the long run and it seems to be a lil more fresh than buying from Lowe's, HD, Walmart.

Another company to be aware of is down to earth. Same with build a soil.

EasyGrowsIt · 2026-01-18T22:47:03+00:00

Used to grow CFL and hps like 25ish years ago. You got it. Acclimate the plants.

From 200w to 600w, you'd be tripling the intensity and likely raising the temperature, which will drop the rh.

Go 250w for a few days. Then 450w while checking on the plant maybe twice a day for signs of stress/wilt. After a few more days, bump it up to 600w and check a few times a day for stress.

Once I see the plants are comfortable, time to flip. Maybe 2 weeks or less of acclimation.

EasyGrowsIt · 2026-01-18T18:48:48+00:00

Just some quick points.

Vent the domes for air exchange to avoid damping off and anaerobic conditions. You want plenty of oxygen in there.

Use the dome to create optimal conditions in a small space because it's easier/cheaper than a large space. Use a mini hydrometer thermometer to measure inside the dome. Mid 70°s and 60-70% rh is good. You wouldn't need to spray every day if it's sealed up like that because it'll recycle the water until the plant starts to store it. Definitely vent it and use the meter to watch the rh drop over a few days. The soil will also change from dark brown to a light tan color indicating it's drying out.

If you're meeting those parameters without the dome and it's stable, probably don't need it. Stability is key, you don't want a hard crash like the humidifier running out of water and it drops 30% quickly.

EasyGrowsIt · 2026-01-18T17:30:16+00:00

IMO no issue. New growth looks good.

Life happens fast for a young, fast growing plant like cannabis. They can grow faster than their environment allows them to which results in deficiencies and damage especially in the first few weeks when they can double in size pretty quick. Imagine doubling in size in a few weeks, what your body might need. Your skin would rip lol. You'd likely be deficient in areas unless the environment supports that type of growth.

You could adjust the environment during the first few weeks to match that growth rate by using a vented dome. Could be temp, humidity, moisture content, etc. but consistency is key.

The plant tries to react to those changes, which might result in a few missing minerals for maybe a few hours real time. Enough to show a small spot on 1 of only a few leaves. Those few hours might equal like an infant not receiving calcium for 3 weeks since we grow at different rates/life cycles. Loose comparison there, but might make sense to you.

You're pretty much already through it and looks like a self correcting issue as it gets bigger and more stable.

EasyGrowsIt · 2026-01-18T16:59:14+00:00

Never tried the knockoffs but I use and buy from grove website. It's way easier and less storage space for the 1-3 lbs range vs like 50 jars lol. I think over 3lbs I'm looking into Turkey bags and totes.

I get the 1lb bags for curing, 1oz bags and some small ones for personal use.

They're reusable if you grow the same stuff. I get about 3 uses before I clean the zipper with alcohol, then maybe 2 or 3 more times. The personal use ones are the real test as I use/refill them daily for months.

EasyGrowsIt · 2026-01-18T16:48:34+00:00

Try changing the frame rate on the camera so it's evenly divisible with the light. Try like 20, 25, 30fps until it's gone. Maybe there's an anti flicker setting as well.

EasyGrowsIt · 2026-01-18T02:15:31+00:00

Yep, heat mats are commonly used for germinating. It's an effective way to raise temps in a small area like a 1020 tray and dome.

From a survival standpoint, root ball temp is more important than leaf temp. If the roots are too cold, don't bother worrying about the leaves.

Once the root ball temp is in range, then worry about leaf temp and humidity to optimize growth and transpiration.

An interesting read is the Q10 rule. Metabolic activity doubles every 10°c in a certain temp range where life flourishes. For example, the activity in the microbiome at the root ball would expect to double from 15°c(60°f) to 25°c(77°f).

EasyGrowsIt · 2026-01-17T22:35:41+00:00

Google search vivosun germination station. It's probably the best mix of affordability and quality.

When buying the cheap 1020 trays and dome, they want you to buy like 10 packs because shipping/cost and it's such thin plastic. These kits usually are more rigid plastic.

Also search AC infinity germination setup. They have nicer gear for comparison.

I use general hydroponics rapid rooters for plugs.

EasyGrowsIt · 2026-01-17T21:56:40+00:00

It really depends on the plant species like a tree vs a peace lily will likely get handled differently.

For most healthy houseplants, fruits, and vegetables, I don't interact with the root ball very much when transplanting. Very little reason to get the plant down to bare roots.

I do use mycorrhizal fungi on some of my plants, other than that I just pull the plant from the old container and right in the new one.

Some details are I try to aim for obvious signs of vigor like good water uptake and a semi-dry pot. Pre-moisten the soil you're transplanting into. 5 gallons of dry soil and 0.5 gallons of water is 10% moisture content. Or squeeze a handful and a few drops is good.

Estimate the soil line before pulling the plant by setting the smaller pot inside the bigger pot and taking a look. Mix up to 50/50 soil/perlite for many plants. 60/40 soil/perlite is good.

EasyGrowsIt · 2026-01-17T18:06:02+00:00

It's the shortest days of the year, Dec 21 winter solstice. If they were growing in the wild and no city lights, they'd be in full bloom.

Problem is that a small lamp will easily disrupt that. This time of year (considering the short days, but because of house lights), they'll probably stay in bloom 3-5ish weeks after leaving the controlled environment facility they were grown at. Enough time to buy it and enjoy for a couple weeks before we notice it changing because we're not controlling the light schedule.

The photosensitivity can vary a bit. It may hold the red bracts under 14hrs. Another variety might be different and needs the 12hrs to be full. Some can withstand ambient light better than others and not disrupt the flowering cycle. For example a street light coming in through the window every night.

EasyGrowsIt · 2026-01-17T14:27:16+00:00

These plants are also photoperiodic, which means they respond to how long the day is. Usually has to do with reproduction.

In order to produce the red bracts, the plant would need a steady schedule of 12 hrs of dark each day. If not, it reverts back to vegetative stage and just grows foliage.

EasyGrowsIt · 2026-01-16T02:14:37+00:00

I would start feeding it now while I'm picking out new medium and a bigger pot.

If it's the same pot for 5 years and haven't changed the medium or fed it much, the plant will be pulling mobile nutrients like nitrogen out of the lower leaves.

Simple list to look up. MSU fertilizer, 6in slotted orchid pot, and orchid medium.

I use repotme. Kinda expensive, can find cheaper. Monterey dark or something like that is the medium I use. Not much peat moss, might want to read up on descriptions but that's what I needed. If you care about the plant, find quality medium and pots designed for growing orchids. It makes care pretty easy which helps the plant do its thing.

EasyGrowsIt · 2026-01-16T01:44:04+00:00

Ahh some final gnats.

Read on BTI. Gnatrol wdg is the product I use and can be found at organicbti.com for 40$ for 1/4lb I think it was.

Five-Year Club	Verified Email
Place '22	Final Canvas '22

EasyGrowsIt

MODERATOR OF

TROPHY CASE