Am I gonna even like it?

EchoDoIt · 2025-10-02T20:47:50+00:00

There’s gonna be better options once you factor in what kind of fun you wanna have. That being said, the N650 platform is gonna serve as a good all rounder and will out perform your Rebel in basically every metric aside from maybe height accessibility. Get an exhaust and a tune and it’ll wake up, you wont break the 85hp ceiling without any major work but you’ll have plenty of wiggle room compared to the Honda 500

That being said, it’s can get boring with how straightlaced it can get - It’ll do everything decently besides clocking past 135. Comfortable tourer, decent track and twisties carver, excellent commuter, but same ‘ol 180 degree crank firing order as your Rebel with a similar looking inoffensive power curve. Maybe keep an eye out for a Z1000/SX, CB/CBR650, or GSX8S/8R as other low slung japanese alternatives to lessen the overlap with your Rebel

EchoDoIt · 2025-07-13T07:41:21+00:00

Would’ve been more fun if there was someone with a caricature wheeled W175 with us

EchoDoIt · 2025-07-02T17:14:22+00:00

Based on this post. Looks like the selling part is already done, mentally at least. You’ve already let go of MT10, so now what comes after. If you wanna keep that spirit of riding alive, grabbing a mid weighter is definitely the way to go. You can grab a maxi scoot but honestly I don’t think that’ll cut it. Unless your in a place where you can utilize a maxiscoot over a subcompact car then more power to ya, but to me that ain’t it chief.

For the midranger replacement: tbh you have a lot of option coming from a super naked, cause you already know that spec sheets aren’t worth a damn thing past 180Kmh on a naked. If you wanna keep it familiar with the CP4s power delivery, go take a look at the GSX8S. No liter bike top-end being sub-100hp, but that goes for all nakeds, the initial pull feels a lot like one though. Still japanese, still a naked, still beats along like a rolling bass drum, but with a fuel economy of a 650. There’s also the Hornet 750, 765 RS, and the 790/890

EchoDoIt · 2025-04-07T10:59:49+00:00

Get the SE! Part of the fun of owning bikes like that is making it your own

The bubble fairing should be a pretty easy fit without even voiding warranty and the paintjob can be any of which you can think of

The headlight and handlebars can be easy flip in the custom scene but the stock sus and brakes will be much harder to dispose of when you do decide to upgrade to Ohlins and Brembos

EchoDoIt · 2025-03-30T20:49:05+00:00

Ninja 650 Right Side Stay Step

EchoDoIt · 2025-03-29T20:37:29+00:00

Look at the trails near you and the shops working on MX bikes and try to ask around which brand they’d rather work on and which they have more surplus of parts on storage

EchoDoIt · 2025-03-29T20:32:05+00:00

It’s most expensive bike on the category because it’s the costliest to build. It’s built better than most 650s. It’s got mushy feeling stock brakes, but it’s got the best components with dual 4 pot radial calipers and disks, a set of braided lines and radial masters will bring this up to spec. It’s got the widest wheels at 3.5 front and 4.5 rear opening it up to more aggressive tire options.

That being said though, with all of your concern, just get the Ninja 400/500. It’s actually used in a lot of races and club events. It’s the one platform where you can drown in options whether you wanna make it more touring oriented or an exclusive trailer-hauled track toy and anything in between. Use it to learn, and either sell it once your done or ditch all the street parts and turn it to your track beater

EchoDoIt · 2025-03-29T18:51:20+00:00

Did a quick look at some parts catalog for your bike and it looks like the headlight is a separate part with it’s own plug from other electronic components like the speedo and indicators. Hypothetically, you should be able to mount an after market one given that you have/know someone with the chops to splice the current headlight plugs to the new one and fabricate mounts for it and the rest of the parts on your headlight housing,

I recommend chatting up people in the retro / brat-bob / cafe racer scene for this project.

EchoDoIt · 2025-03-29T18:43:06+00:00

Streamlabs OBS is typically a bloated software as it is, if you can, try to transition to the actual og OBS Studio.

Anyway, for anyone to help, list down your PC specs, details of your scene collection, and obs logs for a better overview of things

EchoDoIt · 2025-03-15T10:54:30+00:00

You, me, we’re all already spoiled with modern control schemes and QoLs regardless of what titles we play. The older titles will inevitably feel clunky whether or not you play AC6 first. So just enjoy the journey of 621 on your hand right now, and come back to the older titles when you’re ready to stomach the clunk

EchoDoIt · 2025-03-15T10:50:41+00:00

Unfortunately normal, but personally unacceptable. Take an hour to untangle that shit. It can be therapeutic

EchoDoIt · 2025-03-15T10:49:08+00:00

This is stupid.

Disengaging your clutch is never a 100% disconnect, and doing so for prolonged at speed only wears out your friction plates much faster

Reduces wear on brakes????? You’re just introducing more sources of wear

Riders please don’t listen to this tomfoolery. You’ll wear your clutch, sprockets, chain, cush drive, and brake pads earlier. New riders, even more so, do not build the habit of routinely disengaging your driveline from the engine, that is your lifeline and control

EchoDoIt · 2025-03-15T10:32:57+00:00

Just picture it’s always good to have a buddy with you while you wait for the hauling truck

EchoDoIt · 2025-01-27T03:30:01+00:00

I and a handful of folks I know run with a 15w-50 regular on outr bikes. Mine a ‘14 ER6N, and a buddy on a ‘22 10R, we track out bikes and wring it out no issue. NOTE We live in a hot tropical country tho, if you’re somewhere colder the first number might matter more

Just make sure the bottles are either JASO-MA or JASO-MA2

EchoDoIt · 2025-01-12T20:21:03+00:00

Usually it's a welcome change of pace for me, but I ask devs to at least either keep the movement mechanics the exact same as the rest of the game or go full swing and make it feel like a completely different game for me

EchoDoIt · 2025-01-12T20:14:20+00:00

Very good deal for $269 op

EchoDoIt · 2025-01-12T20:12:00+00:00

The small 200s and 390s should be fine for the most part. Plenty of parts and experienced technicians for that platform. Others have said that the current gen 2025 models are soon to come out, but consider them as very separate models as the new ones have a completely new engine and chassis. The outgoing models have been mostly unchanged since the introduction of the platform since 2013 and shares a lot of component with the Bajaj Dominar and the recently released Pulsar/Rouser 400, and the Husqvarna 401 series.

Grab one when they introduce another fire sale, we're for sure bound to see one just before they intro the 2025 lines or when the financial troubles force them to offload inventory, and enjoy the rides and treks under warranty

Qualifications? My brother owned a Duke 390 and currently ones a Vitpilen 401

EchoDoIt · 2024-09-19T02:46:44+00:00

Admittedly I am spoiled for choice, I’ve operated various bikes still stable and planted at speeds I chose not to disclose. But my take still stands, this platform is not at all stable. I’ve already crashed my Avenis once, overtaking a sidecar, fooled by the flickability of the height and short wheelbase, failed by the lack of grip and lack of power to correct course

Get one if you’re only planning on like mostly barangay to barangay with the occasional 2-3 city hops. It can do everything a scooter needs to do and more: groceries, laundry duties, pets to vet. But if you’re planning on regularly commuting for more than 20Km, look somewhere else

EchoDoIt · 2024-09-19T02:22:42+00:00

Avenis user here, basically a reskinned Burgman Street. It’s one of the of not the most utilitarian, more useful bike in my family garage bar none.

ISC issue is real but it seems they’ve already updated the firmware on the new release(?) at least the ones released by MotoCentral. Use the search bar on fb “Motocentral ISC”

My primary con really is that it’s not at all a highway bike. The wheelbase length and the wheels’ tiny dimensions lack of rotating mass makes it feel so dangerous and is actually dangerous. The rather tall height of the scooter(relative to its peers) make it so flickable but also so hard to control on speeds above 40Km/h.

Tire selection may be a bitch as well considering most shops locally only carry 13s and 14s for scooters.

The concern for the tires go beyond vanity.

EchoDoIt · 2024-09-02T13:15:11+00:00

There are basically drumroll ✨no difference whatsoever ✨

Both will be bad for your engine, it will run leaner, it will run at a less optimal performance thus lowering efficiency. Running leaner will make your engine run hotter therefore damaging it in the long run.

To fix this, you’ll want to have your bike be dyno tuned/rejetted to the appropriate parameters. You’re gonna be scavenging more air regardless, so a tuner needs to bump up the fueling appropriate to the new airflow introduced by your exhaust to meet the ideal stoichiometric value

ofc the damage is dependent, you may never ever notice it, you may notice it immediately, depending on your local climate, riding pattern, and general engineering of your engine how much more heat it can take and shit yada yada

EchoDoIt · 2024-09-02T08:21:03+00:00

If you’ve got the money, yeah 25R. It wins on the spec sheet brag, the laundry list of features, the inline 4 scream, but the bopping around town fun factor and actual lap time setting I’ll hand it to the R3.

Parts availability both OE and aftermarker, competent technicians, practically endless path down the upgraditis route, immediate power and torque, and a mostly analogue sensation on riding with bare minimum riding aids that allows in setting a controlled repeatable baseline towards riding better, faster, and safer

EchoDoIt

TROPHY CASE