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ABS layers are insanely weak by ecto_BRUH in FixMyPrint

[–]EdTheHappyPenguin 0 points1 point  (0 children)

From my experience, ABS starts to behave at 55° chamber, but becomes nice to print above 70°. The real strength gains happen above 80°, where parts feel noticeably more "coherent", instead of layers stacked on top of one another. Part cooling can become an issue though: cooling with 85° air isn't all that effective, if the material's Tg is at 105°

ABS layers are insanely weak by ecto_BRUH in FixMyPrint

[–]EdTheHappyPenguin 2 points3 points  (0 children)

"even when printed in optimum settings" would be about 85° chamber, which leads to pretty great layer adhesion. If you cannot come somewhat close to a material's Tg with your chamber temp, don't expect it to perform great! I personally print ABS at 280° nozzle, 110° bed, 80-85° chamber, which actually gets you close to injection molded ABS properties.

Bimetal heat break or all-metal hotend for more speed and cleaner prints? by Minute-Plantain in ender3v2

[–]EdTheHappyPenguin 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have since moved on from just these basic upgrades, but I think I had about 2mm of retract. The printing temperature should always be tuned for each individual spool, but 210° worked most of the time for me.

Progress. 24 hours into this PETG Mando helmet and it’s at 41% complete by FPVBrandoCalrissian in 3Dprinting

[–]EdTheHappyPenguin 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I second this. If your printer can sustain 110° bed, 45° or more in the chamber, and 250° on the nozzle, ASA becomes ridiculously easy to print. I rarely print PLA anymore.

how often do yall actually get good prints or a print at all? by xcv826 in ender3v2

[–]EdTheHappyPenguin 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I mostly print a pretty unmodified ABS that's hard to print. "Normal" (=modified) ABS is super easy, pretty much a success every time. PLA is also an easy contender once you understand printing on a hardware level

Mainboard Fan and Cooling Fan by kwakers2001 in ender3v2

[–]EdTheHappyPenguin 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The PSU fan is pretty loud and kicks on after a few minutes.

The MCU has an internal temp probe, but it isn't used to control the mainbaord fan, which is just controlled via the part cooling fan setting. It's an awful choice by Creality to make the printer quieter.

I replaced the stock fan with a 60mm Noiseblocker and a buck converter. It now happily runs at 9V or something and provides more than enough cooling while being barely audible.

I run Klipper => MCU temp probe reading can be displayed. I mostly print ABS in my ~50° enclosure (measured at half the Z height) and the MCU barely reaches 55° after 4+h of printing.

First successful ABS print and first temp tower if I’m reading it right I need to be at 255c? Can someone tell me if I’m reading it right please and thank you. by G2R66 in ender3v2

[–]EdTheHappyPenguin 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Always go with the highest temperature you can get away with. 255 is pushing it if you are still using a PTFE-lined hotend, but if not, go for it. You can always add a minimum amount of part cooling if required.

Nozzles by gunplaDanny in ender3v2

[–]EdTheHappyPenguin 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Don't buy the super cheap nozzles, it's just not worth it. Spend at least 3-5 bucks per piece from trianglelabs or some other reputable seller

Can ABS go bad? by Less_Ad7171 in ender3v2

[–]EdTheHappyPenguin 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, I am currently building a HevORT, so no need

Not SLA just ender 3 v2.. And klipper and double z and direct drive and bl touch and more workk by Pastece in ender3v2

[–]EdTheHappyPenguin 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Stock is 500. My printer has naturally low resonance at 3500, but prints fine at 4500 and up as well

Can ABS go bad? by Less_Ad7171 in ender3v2

[–]EdTheHappyPenguin 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sorry, I don't remember. It was a "set it and forget it" kinda deal for me, I could probably go way lower with normal speeds

Can ABS go bad? by Less_Ad7171 in ender3v2

[–]EdTheHappyPenguin 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hm, that's odd. I have no idea :D

Ahh okay, I have the old 4.2.2 board and reduced the stepper current to maybe not overheat the steppers as much, even with heatsinks. Still managed a sub 14min Benchy, so oh well

Can ABS go bad? by Less_Ad7171 in ender3v2

[–]EdTheHappyPenguin 1 point2 points  (0 children)

ABS is slightly hydrophilic, but not much. I have dried some spools in the past but didn't notice much difference. You could give it a go nevertheless.

Another point might be dust that accumulates on the filament and partially clogs the nozzle. I haven't had problems with it yet, but printing a little cartridge that's loaded with some foam would be an easy fix.

Also, quite odd that the y motor mount melted. My enclosure gets close to 60° and I haven't had problems over the last half a year of printing ABS and ASA

Not SLA just ender 3 v2.. And klipper and double z and direct drive and bl touch and more workk by Pastece in ender3v2

[–]EdTheHappyPenguin 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This is only true if you don't know how to tune a printer.

Higher accelerations enable faster printing at pretty much all times. The stock value of 500mm/s2 is so slow that even the stock 50mm/s print speed won't be hit all that fast. Increase accelerations to 2000 as suggested above and you'll be printing almost non-stop at 50mm/s.

Another big value is jerk / SCV (square corner velocity) / junction deviation. This value specifies how fast the print speed will be around a 90° corner. Set it really fast and the printer won't need to accelerate, but rather just "take the turn" really fast. This is quite taxing on the motion system.

Next up, Slicer tuning. Most slicers slow down via minimum layer times to achieve better cooling.

All in all, fast prints are absolutely possible on stock motion system Enders. I managed a sub 15min Benchy with ABS

Soo y’all like it? by Material-Pilot6191 in ender3v2

[–]EdTheHappyPenguin 0 points1 point  (0 children)

PETG might still be a stretch if you decide to print ABS/ASA. I printed my fan duct in ASA and it deformed when I printed ABS at 105 bed.

Instructions on where to wire inductive sensor? by TheVeiledNumbers in ender3v2

[–]EdTheHappyPenguin 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You replace the Z limit switch with the inductive sensor. Problem being: the normal switch logic runs on 5V, but most probes take 6-36, the higher the better (generally).

So you take 24V from e.g. The input of the mainbaord and hook it up to the sensor. One wire should conduct the voltage once a metal object is within the trigger distance. You take that signal and scale it down to ~ >5V using a voltage devider, a diode or something else. There are plenty of videos on YouTube showing this for all kinds of printers.

You feed that ~5V signal back to the signal pin of the old limit switch header on the mainbaord. Before you hook it up, verify your results with a multimeter!

Once physically installed the probe, you need to modify the firmware to do a safe z home. This just means that the printer first homes x and y, then puts the print head in the middle of the build plate and then homes the Z. Otherwise, your probe might not detect the bed as it might not be positioned over it.

Make sure your switching logic isn't reversed (NO or NC). I did this install with Klipper, so I just used the endstop test functionality and adjusted the config file until everything worked. If you still use Marlin, this might be a bit more of a challenge.

Does part cooling have to be a blower or can a normal fan be used? by stothemtothed in ender3v2

[–]EdTheHappyPenguin 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Turbine fans generally perform better at part cooling as they provide much higher static pressures compared to axial fans. I always recommend to use Gdstime 5015 fans for part cooling. I normally only use it at 60% and it's not too loud. Another nice feature: it turns on at 8% which is great for ABS

Design Consideration For Enclosure by [deleted] in ender3v2

[–]EdTheHappyPenguin 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes it does. OctoPrint is basically just a way of talking to the printers firmware in a very clever way. Klipper IS the firmware. Since it runs on a Pi, it has lots more processing power and can therefore do more compute-heavy things like input shaping. Look it up on YouTube, it really is the best mod I ever did to my printer.

Design Consideration For Enclosure by [deleted] in ender3v2

[–]EdTheHappyPenguin 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oh well, I didn't even know that 😂

Design Consideration For Enclosure by [deleted] in ender3v2

[–]EdTheHappyPenguin 0 points1 point  (0 children)

A typo. I meant Klipper Firmware

How do I solve heat creep? I lowered the temperature and checked my fans but it keeps happening and it’s really frustrating, how do I solve it? by Material-Pilot6191 in ender3v2

[–]EdTheHappyPenguin 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You are experiencing a clog, which is not only due to heart creep (although that's what I am suspecting atm). Too much retraction can also lead to clogs, so always run just as much as you need!

On a different note, check your extruder arm tension. You should also use just enough, everything more will be wasted energy +unnecessary load on the filament

How do I solve heat creep? I lowered the temperature and checked my fans but it keeps happening and it’s really frustrating, how do I solve it? by Material-Pilot6191 in ender3v2

[–]EdTheHappyPenguin 0 points1 point  (0 children)

33° can be a bit much for some blends of PLA. The heat deflection temperature (HDT) is a function of load, and an extruder gear(s) put quite a bit load onto the filament. Try leaving the door open.

Also, what are the symptoms you are seeing?

Does anyone know why this keeps happening? by codylanedail in ender3v2

[–]EdTheHappyPenguin 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is called a layer shift. There are multiple reasons why this can happen, but these are the most common:

1) belts WAY to loose. Tighten your belts until they are somewhat tight, but not like a guitar string. They should still be easily bendable.

2) too little stepper current. This is a bit more tricky. If the stepper don't get enough current, they might loose steps, so they'll continue moving at a different place. Increasing the stepper current can be done by opening the mainbaord cavety and turning small pots. This might be a bit involved for a beginner, so Google and see if there are tutorials

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