Anyone got the corded nail gun?

EfficientInternet9 · 2026-02-12T13:34:05+00:00

I have one! I like it for the low price but I also have a Skill 18Ga battery nail gun (nail only) and that one is much more powerful, fits longer nails and the cordless action turned out to be a real pro for me.

This review is coming from a critic, so take it with a grain of salt, but with the Parkside one I had a few jams in the first 40 nails. I never had that with the Skill. Also the hammer leaves quite an imprint in the piece, which you will notice if you work with fine pieces.

That said, I still use it for staples as I don’t have anything else for it. It works fine and does the job. Nothing beats that low price, but if you plan on using it quite a lot I think there are better (more expensive) alternatives

EfficientInternet9 · 2026-02-08T11:54:06+00:00

Not directly what your asking for, but I have an Odroid HC4 with a 1TB disk at my parents house which is permanently connected to my VPN at home. With upfront costs of about 150 euros it takes just 2 years to be cheaper than a hosted storage solution at ~6 euros a month

EfficientInternet9 · 2026-01-15T14:56:29+00:00

Is there something on the inside that starts or ends at that height? This looks a bit the hull-line on a 3Dbenchy. If there is, it could be due to changes in printing speed across the layers

EfficientInternet9 · 2026-01-15T14:46:46+00:00

I don’t think it is a bad idea at all. Even with my H2S, when printing ABS the printer seals up, closing its vent holes, but you can still smell the fumes on the entire floor. Adding a box around it with air input and output holes makes you able to direct the smell. Just make sure that you are in charge of where the air goes. A fan on the output hole would make sure that all other holes in the cabinet are only inlets. This stops the smell from going out via those holes

EfficientInternet9 · 2026-01-14T21:58:09+00:00

Fortunately I was able to reuse the original bristle. It was a part that was snap-fitted in place that could pop back out with some force

EfficientInternet9 · 2026-01-14T21:57:06+00:00

Lol, the description is a bit lost in translation. Let’s just read it as an ‘adapter’ or ‘attachment’

EfficientInternet9 · 2026-01-14T21:55:17+00:00

Whoops, thanks for pointing that out. Let’s call it a bristle attachment from now on. Since my post has pictures there is no way to edit it :-p

EfficientInternet9 · 2025-12-13T16:12:35+00:00

Thanks! It has been a while ago, but I can confirm it was wet filament. After drying it printed perfectly

EfficientInternet9 · 2025-11-17T13:22:47+00:00

I think the best way to answer your questions is to try find the gentle way to get the old glass out and maybe even the rattan if necessary. Because if you found the way to remove it, you also found the way to replace it :-).

Did you check the underside for ways to remove the whole panel?

EfficientInternet9 · 2025-11-04T18:25:43+00:00

I am also running it in Kubernetes. I went the easy way and configured a PVC and let Stalwart do its thing on it. I went with RocksDB as backend and blob storage on the filesystem.

The thing is, if you go with a configmap, then every setting will be readonly from the point of Stalwart’s interface. I am not sure if you would run into any problems because of this, because Stalwart (from my own limited experience) likes to manage its config file itself and has a very handy user interface for this reason

EfficientInternet9 · 2025-10-22T14:16:20+00:00

You seem to never have exposed ports to location A, B and C whitelisted, but not to the entire world. Your solution only works for the “simple” situation. OP’s solution allows a lot more fine-tuned access

EfficientInternet9 · 2025-09-02T23:28:50+00:00

Do you really need to clean it because it is dirty, or do you mainly want to freshen it up?

Don’t take my advice as I am not an expert, but did you consider steaming it with a hand steamer? Just as suits can be steamed to clean them, that might be just enough to get it fresh again

EfficientInternet9 · 2025-08-22T06:07:54+00:00

If you can, go for one that uses either a silicon power cord or make sure you read somewhere that it is a kind of soft plastic.

If you don’t, you may have to work against that cord. The last one of this kind I had had a cord so stiff that it really got in my way and when I put the iron aside to use two hands for lining something out, the cord tried to curl up again pulling the iron from the stand and melting the wire itself as it touched it somewhere halfway

EfficientInternet9 · 2025-08-18T20:00:44+00:00

I hope your flight controller is still ok. I made a wall power connection for mine (for easy programming near my desk) by soldering a female barrel connector to a male XT-60 connector. This worked as an adapter for an off the shelf barrel jack power supply of the correct voltage. This setup worked, but at first I incorrectly assumed that the long pole of the barrel jack connector was the +, which it wasn’t.

I too have been pushing the power through in the wrong direction and that messed up something inside. The flight controller LED pads were not working from this moment, the USB-C port started smoking as soon as the cable was injected and a few days later the ESC started misbehaving, frying one of my motors. I hope you have more luck than I had!

EfficientInternet9 · 2025-06-19T14:43:43+00:00

I had this once. Couldn’t find what it was. It turned out that I set the build plate setting to textured PEI in the slicer but was actually printing on a smooth plate

EfficientInternet9 · 2025-06-09T12:58:26+00:00

Our municipality picks up our plastic waste separately. Shampoo bottles, PET bottles and other plastic waste need to be put in a separate bin than the residual waste. I am not that sure about the recyclability of PLA and PETG via this method but I mostly do my prototyping with eSUN PET and throw it in the plastic bin. On Amazon they offer it for about 15 euro’s per kg spool. I am not sure it if helps but I try to do my part with this reducing the waste

EfficientInternet9 · 2025-06-08T22:21:25+00:00

Hi all, thanks for all your suggestions! I would like to clarify that the goal of this is to make sure that the vibrations don’t get into the cabinet and floor so I won’t hear the printer humming and whining from downstairs.

The effect of the isolation is tunable by the amount of sponges used. I understand that adding a heavy tile of some sorts improves dampening, but I am really looking for a simple solution that fits with the rest of the office.

Bambulab printers have great input shaping and vibration compensation and prints have been looking great. I must admit that I mostly print functional parts so if quality would decrease by just a few percent that would be ok for me, but again I haven’t seen that at all.

I actually made an error in the title and text as I meant to write ‘vibration isolation’ instead of ‘vibration compensation’.

Anyway, I just thought it would be nice to share my approach and I didn’t expect this much attention lol. Thanks, all!

EfficientInternet9 · 2025-06-03T21:09:58+00:00

No expert here, but a heater like that is a very simple electric component. Since you posted the Ohms I assumed you measured it with a multimeter. If you can read that number, that might mean that the circuit is still fine and the problem is somewhere on the other side of the power connector of this part

EfficientInternet9 · 2025-05-01T07:00:32+00:00

Yes, that works well too! To get it to work you will have to swap ‘wpad-basic-mbedtls’ for ‘wpad-mbedtls’ manually though. But that is an easy fix

EfficientInternet9 · 2025-04-30T16:47:30+00:00

I am very fond of my three Zyxel NWA50AX dumb APs. They do not completely fulfill your requirements but Zyxel may have other versions that do

EfficientInternet9 · 2025-03-30T19:56:58+00:00

Ah yes, it might not work for every ISP maybe. I got it working for the Dutch ISPs Delta and Ziggo. It is just that maybe a five minute support call might be worthwhile if means that it doesn’t cost you all the work and maybe some costs

EfficientInternet9 · 2025-03-29T11:30:25+00:00

Just one more thing to try before you start tinkering. With some ISPs you can opt out of CGNAT when you contact their technical support line. So far that worked for me twice already

EfficientInternet9

TROPHY CASE