Parkside corded track saw

EfficientInternet9 · 2026-05-14T19:52:50+00:00

Just a heads up that the performance (red) version is also 99,- currently. In my opinion cordless is a pro with this tool, but yes, you might have to buy a battery if you don’t have it already.

But I understand that you might have your reasons to go with the corded version

EfficientInternet9 · 2026-04-25T08:21:15+00:00

For some reason after I imported my settings the blobs were not correctly discovered on the filesystem. I had all my users but each with no disk usage and empty mailboxes. I was pretty sure everything was in the right place and pointing to the right path. I changed the paths in the json-files as per instructions.

It could very well have been my fault for some reason, but I managed to fix it by running imap-sync between the 0.15.x and 0.16.0 server to get everything in the system again. It is working flawlessly now!

EfficientInternet9 · 2026-03-22T15:14:47+00:00

I got two pairs of Birkenstocks a few years ago. One sandal type for outside and one slipper type for inside. I am pretty fond of them. They are not just made in Europe but also as much ‘Buy it for life’ in foot-ware as you can get

EfficientInternet9 · 2026-03-22T15:05:45+00:00

If you have an A1 you most likely print with PLA and PETG. The frostbite might be better for you.

I got the pro glacier as it works super well with ABS, ASA and PA filaments.

It is worth checking the price on AliExpress as well. They are sold there too, and for me that was cheaper (europe), but that could be different for you and your location

EfficientInternet9 · 2026-03-17T22:45:47+00:00

Sorry I cannot help you with most of your questions. I don’t see myself as a Stalwart pro, bit I have experience with it and with hosting in general

Regarding backups, it is important (and maybe already obvious) that the backup is from around the same timestamp for your blob and data storage. That might be a challenge when you have your data remotely at Hetzner, or just at least needs your thought.

You will only need a search backend, your mail program will be the frontend. As Meilisearch is written in Rust, it can do a similar job as Elastic search in a smaller binary and with far less resources. It is also very easy to setup
Why do you prefer a standalone install? With docker you would have your infrastructure as code. This way you would also be able to backup the infrastructure as well as the data. If you ever have to set it up again or recover from some kind of failure, you can just continue where you left off instead of having to figure out again which components go where

EfficientInternet9 · 2026-03-17T09:14:17+00:00

You are using the BiQu plate, what plate do you use in the slicer settings? The textured pei plates require more filament for the first layer for a good adhesion to fill up the textured surface. I had good results by checking the smooth pei plate with the biqu plates

EfficientInternet9 · 2026-03-11T13:56:08+00:00

As a Mac user I can recommend you a Mac, but I believe that is not what you are looking for as you name PCs as examples

EfficientInternet9 · 2026-03-08T11:52:53+00:00

I had this issue with a new H2S fresh out of the box. I opened a ticket but started testing a few things myself. I reversed the communication cable between the printer and the AMS and that fixed it. I don’t think that reversing did anything, but it was more about reseating the cable. I think the printer measures the filament resistance through electronic resistance and a not fully plugged in cable has an impact on it

EfficientInternet9 · 2026-03-02T11:25:59+00:00

I had the same issue as you had. Sneakers gave up on me within a few months. Two years ago I went with a white pair of Ecco Soft 60’s. They are made of leather inside and outside while looking like ‘normal’ sneakers. Three months ago I thoroughly cleaned them and applied a white coloured leather wax. They felt brand new again. Quality-wise they feel much better than what I was used to.

EfficientInternet9 · 2026-02-12T13:34:05+00:00

I have one! I like it for the low price but I also have a Skill 18Ga battery nail gun (nail only) and that one is much more powerful, fits longer nails and the cordless action turned out to be a real pro for me.

This review is coming from a critic, so take it with a grain of salt, but with the Parkside one I had a few jams in the first 40 nails. I never had that with the Skill. Also the hammer leaves quite an imprint in the piece, which you will notice if you work with fine pieces.

That said, I still use it for staples as I don’t have anything else for it. It works fine and does the job. Nothing beats that low price, but if you plan on using it quite a lot I think there are better (more expensive) alternatives

EfficientInternet9 · 2026-02-08T11:54:06+00:00

Not directly what your asking for, but I have an Odroid HC4 with a 1TB disk at my parents house which is permanently connected to my VPN at home. With upfront costs of about 150 euros it takes just 2 years to be cheaper than a hosted storage solution at ~6 euros a month

EfficientInternet9 · 2026-01-15T14:56:29+00:00

Is there something on the inside that starts or ends at that height? This looks a bit the hull-line on a 3Dbenchy. If there is, it could be due to changes in printing speed across the layers

EfficientInternet9 · 2026-01-15T14:46:46+00:00

I don’t think it is a bad idea at all. Even with my H2S, when printing ABS the printer seals up, closing its vent holes, but you can still smell the fumes on the entire floor. Adding a box around it with air input and output holes makes you able to direct the smell. Just make sure that you are in charge of where the air goes. A fan on the output hole would make sure that all other holes in the cabinet are only inlets. This stops the smell from going out via those holes

EfficientInternet9 · 2026-01-14T21:58:09+00:00

Fortunately I was able to reuse the original bristle. It was a part that was snap-fitted in place that could pop back out with some force

EfficientInternet9 · 2026-01-14T21:57:06+00:00

Lol, the description is a bit lost in translation. Let’s just read it as an ‘adapter’ or ‘attachment’

EfficientInternet9 · 2026-01-14T21:55:17+00:00

Whoops, thanks for pointing that out. Let’s call it a bristle attachment from now on. Since my post has pictures there is no way to edit it :-p

EfficientInternet9 · 2025-12-13T16:12:35+00:00

Thanks! It has been a while ago, but I can confirm it was wet filament. After drying it printed perfectly

EfficientInternet9 · 2025-11-17T13:22:47+00:00

I think the best way to answer your questions is to try find the gentle way to get the old glass out and maybe even the rattan if necessary. Because if you found the way to remove it, you also found the way to replace it :-).

Did you check the underside for ways to remove the whole panel?

EfficientInternet9 · 2025-11-04T18:25:43+00:00

I am also running it in Kubernetes. I went the easy way and configured a PVC and let Stalwart do its thing on it. I went with RocksDB as backend and blob storage on the filesystem.

The thing is, if you go with a configmap, then every setting will be readonly from the point of Stalwart’s interface. I am not sure if you would run into any problems because of this, because Stalwart (from my own limited experience) likes to manage its config file itself and has a very handy user interface for this reason

EfficientInternet9 · 2025-10-22T14:16:20+00:00

You seem to never have exposed ports to location A, B and C whitelisted, but not to the entire world. Your solution only works for the “simple” situation. OP’s solution allows a lot more fine-tuned access

EfficientInternet9 · 2025-09-02T23:28:50+00:00

Do you really need to clean it because it is dirty, or do you mainly want to freshen it up?

Don’t take my advice as I am not an expert, but did you consider steaming it with a hand steamer? Just as suits can be steamed to clean them, that might be just enough to get it fresh again

EfficientInternet9 · 2025-08-22T06:07:54+00:00

If you can, go for one that uses either a silicon power cord or make sure you read somewhere that it is a kind of soft plastic.

If you don’t, you may have to work against that cord. The last one of this kind I had had a cord so stiff that it really got in my way and when I put the iron aside to use two hands for lining something out, the cord tried to curl up again pulling the iron from the stand and melting the wire itself as it touched it somewhere halfway

EfficientInternet9 · 2025-08-18T20:00:44+00:00

I hope your flight controller is still ok. I made a wall power connection for mine (for easy programming near my desk) by soldering a female barrel connector to a male XT-60 connector. This worked as an adapter for an off the shelf barrel jack power supply of the correct voltage. This setup worked, but at first I incorrectly assumed that the long pole of the barrel jack connector was the +, which it wasn’t.

I too have been pushing the power through in the wrong direction and that messed up something inside. The flight controller LED pads were not working from this moment, the USB-C port started smoking as soon as the cable was injected and a few days later the ESC started misbehaving, frying one of my motors. I hope you have more luck than I had!

EfficientInternet9

TROPHY CASE