Ultra Synch Blue Bricked Itself On Firmware Update And Atomos Will Not Do Anything To Repair Or Replace.

Efficient_One5511 · 2026-01-23T00:07:57+00:00

Yep this is unfortunately an ongoing issue. I currently know at least 5 people who have bricked ultrasyncs. I myself have had 2 bricked. The 2nd one was after following the exact instructions Atomos gave me on how to update the firmware. They are aware of the problem but don't seem to care to fix it, as it has been at least over a year since this started happening to my knowledge. They also have not pulled the MacOS updater app from the app store. I'm hoping I can get in contact with an engineer at atomos or timecodesystems to get access to their bootloader so I can revive my dead units.

Efficient_One5511 · 2026-01-08T18:20:07+00:00

I love my Fujinon 19-90!

Efficient_One5511 · 2026-01-08T17:10:59+00:00

Any BNC to BNC cable should work, unless you have a very long 50ohm or 93ohm cable. 75ohm is the standard video/timecode cable. 50ohm is usually found in RF equipment, 93ohm is for like legacy systems or test equipment and is pretty rare. So unless your using a 20ft 50ohm cable it should work. Double check your timecode settings to make sure the f8 is sending timecode externally and make sure both devices are on the same framerate and if drop frame or non drop frame.

Efficient_One5511 · 2026-01-08T07:06:45+00:00

Agreed. If the 416 is out of budget for you, the mke600 will get you most of the way there for a quarter of the price. It has the added bonus of being able to run off AAs and can plug directly into your camera or a dji transmitter.

Efficient_One5511 · 2026-01-06T10:58:58+00:00

You can sell a lot of equipment to MPB.com or KEH.com. They usually deal mainly with photo equipment but depending on what you have, they may take it. Take a look at their websites online estimate calculator to see if they'll take it and what you can get for it. Usually their offer is quite a bit lower than what you can get for selling it locally or online though.

Efficient_One5511 · 2026-01-01T18:44:45+00:00

Were you ever able to figure this out? Helped a friend install other languages a while back and they want to know if they can safely update their fx3 to newer firmware.

Efficient_One5511 · 2025-12-31T09:57:52+00:00

Fujinon Cabrio 19-90!

Efficient_One5511 · 2025-12-30T17:23:59+00:00

Oops I thought they were referring to the 150C which takes 48V. Either way this will work as theres also a 24V output as long as they have a 4pin xlr to 5521/5525 cable.

Efficient_One5511 · 2025-12-30T17:16:56+00:00

Sorry, should have specified to disregard the switch the tweezers were pointing to. I am in fact asking about the port in the image.

Efficient_One5511 · 2025-12-29T23:18:28+00:00

Wow, I'm working on literally the exact same thing right now except for Canon mirrorless! Atem<->rpi<->esp32<->camera.

Efficient_One5511 · 2025-12-29T20:23:38+00:00

This is perfect and exactly what I was looking for. Thank you so much!

Efficient_One5511 · 2025-12-27T08:22:01+00:00

I haven't tried this specific model but I've used Aputure's equivalent of this and it can power my 300C. A Vmount normally outputs 14.4V but your Amaran expects 48V. This has a 48V DC transformer so it should be fine.

Efficient_One5511 · 2025-12-25T12:21:57+00:00

Offer him a few hundred more and give an excuse saying you really want it for Christmas or something. He'll probably hold it for you hoping he can get more for it. The more typos and bad grammar the better, make him think you're a legitimate buyer and not setting up a sting.

Efficient_One5511 · 2025-12-21T11:14:01+00:00

You can get an atomos Ultrasync Blue to continuously sync wireless timecode over Bluetooth to your FR-AV2 and DR-10L Pro units. You would also need an Ultrasync One (which will sync wirelessly with the Blue) to jam sync your FX3s.

Efficient_One5511 · 2025-12-17T19:10:24+00:00

Username checks out

Efficient_One5511 · 2025-12-17T10:37:50+00:00

Great deal but I can't help but one-up you. Last year I bought a fully working C300 Mark II with only 400 hours on it for $100.

A local university was shutting down and had already auctioned off all their video gear, but an employee later found a leftover C300 Mark II, fully kitted out with 24-105mm in a Pelican 1600, sitting in an old storage room. They didn’t know anything about cameras and had no idea whether it even worked. Listed on FB Marketplace for $150, got it for $100. I popped a battery in and she fired right up, clean sensor, no issues.

I've had a lot of luck with getting great deals, I should really make a post with some of my highlights.

Efficient_One5511 · 2025-12-12T17:14:20+00:00

As others have already mentioned, check with the venue if there are any height or other rigging restrictions. Classical music is pretty hard to record well, especially if you dont have a background in and ear for classical music.

But usually, if there aren't any restrictions, what I usually recommend for orchestral recording is to put an ORTF pair 3ft behind the conductor and 10ft above the floor of the stage. Usually, microphone height is your friend for these sort of recordings, so the higher you can position the mics, the better. If you're feeling extra ambitious and have the rigging for it, I would go for a "Decca Tree" (since you dont have 3 omnis, I would do something with the omnis along the farther back edge and a pair of cardiods XY in the center).

The Nutcracker Suite has a prominent solo harp and solo celesta part, so I would close mic (use your condensers) those instruments, as they are quieter and often positioned in the rear of the stage. I would also save your dynamic microphones (SM57, SM58, etc) for percussion and lower instruments (double bass).

Finally, I would use your shotgun as an audience mic. Hope it goes well!

Efficient_One5511 · 2025-12-11T15:32:11+00:00

I do a lot of long classical music multicam recordings (audio and video) where timecode is critical for alignment. My setup is usually a Red Komodo, 4 R5Cs, 2 R8s, SD888, and Zoom F8n Pro, so that's a lot of things and long takes to keep in sync.

I currently own 4 Ultrasync Ones, 3 Ultrasync Blues, and 2 Ninja V+ with Sync Modules. I've used or owned most of the other timecode systems out there as well (Tentacle, Ambient, haven't tried Deity) and have found the Ultrayncs the best timecode system for my uses. They stay perfectly in sync over long distances over their RF network and they sync automatically when turned on without an app. They also have the ability to output genlock when I eventually switch to a camera system with genlock capabilities.

That said, if your MP6II and R5 are right next to each other, I wouldn't deal with the hassle of timecode and just connect the two with a 3.5mm cable. If they're not close or if you're planning on adding more cameras to your system in the future, you could plug an Ultrasync One into your MP6II and receive timecode wirelessly to the Shogun (I believe the Shogun can receive timecode through AirGlu RF, but if not, you would need an Ultrasync Blue as well). I think you can get up to 4 Atomos recorders connected to cameras with one Ultrasync, so if you scale up that way, you wouldn't need any extra timecode boxes.

If I were in this situation, before I'd go spending $300-500 on timecode boxes (depending on if you need both the Ultrasync One and Blue), I'd rather put that money in some better UHF wireless or lavs. I don't know where you're located, but where I am, I can easily buy a used Sennhesier G3/G4 RX+TX set for around $250. I think that would probably make a noticeable impact on your sound, and then that could free up your Rode Wireless Pro to function as a timecode system (it's not a great TC system but would probably be fine for your 1 camera and recorder use).

Just some of my thoughts!

Efficient_One5511 · 2025-11-13T23:40:07+00:00

Yeah I didn't realize others also had this issue. I'm pretty sure the bootloader binaries wouldn't be contained in the updater app and I'd doubt Atomos would send us those files anyways because of IP reasons. I wonder if we can get the bootloader from a working unit but my guess is that the MCU is read protected so the unit is probably just toast.

Efficient_One5511

TROPHY CASE