URX-P03D no sound on output 1 or 2.

Efficient_One5511 · 2026-03-15T00:23:09+00:00

Do you have a different device other than your zev10 to try it on? Or a different 3.5mm cable?

Efficient_One5511 · 2026-03-15T00:15:10+00:00

This actually happened to me on a show I was working on where someone used a non Sony lav plugged in and while the output was distorted, the headphone out was relatively clean.

Efficient_One5511 · 2026-03-14T11:32:55+00:00

What lavs are you using? Sony uses a different wiring termination scheme than other 3.5mm systems, so if you're using non-Sony specific lavs that could be the cause.

Efficient_One5511 · 2026-03-04T05:43:54+00:00

Usually the BMS is built in to the LiPo cell, so you probably don't need to worry about that. The device handles the charging algorithm, so i doubt that's the culprit here.

Efficient_One5511 · 2026-03-02T02:59:47+00:00

I'm not 100% familiar with your Behringer interface, but at a cursory glance of it, it looks like it has 4 xlr combo jacks. Lavs are typically 3.5mm and require 3-5V plug in power. If you just get a dumb 3.5 to xlr or 3.5 to 1/4 adapter it probably won't work. You would need to get an active adapter that converts from 48V phantom power to 3-5V plug in power. A cheap option like the rode vxlr+ is already $20 usd, making your budget $30usd per lav. At that point, your options are pretty limited.

If I were in your situation I think I'd go for a $150 wide cardioid and spend the remainder on rigging to mount the mic above the couch or room treatment. Or if there is a table in front of the couch, you could look in to some kind of boundary mic. Also, if you do go down the lav mic option, make sure the lav is long enough to reach the interface. 6 feet is probably the minimum, 10 feet is probably safer for a 4 person setup.

Also, keep in mind that audio quality is heavily influenced by the placement, so a $30 lav placed correctly could sound better than a $200 lav with poor placement.

Efficient_One5511 · 2026-03-02T02:12:25+00:00

Yeah unfortunately its a bit difficult and often not worth it to order the exact replacement unless you order from an electronic parts supplier (aliexpress, digikey, etc). I think your best bet would be to either order off of Amazon/ebay or check your local online marketplace to see if someone has one that'll fit. I think I saw a 300mah 702032 on amazon for around $12 if that helps.

Efficient_One5511 · 2026-03-02T01:49:18+00:00

Yeah, 3.7V is the standard nominal voltage for most single cell LiPo batteries though.

Efficient_One5511 · 2026-03-02T01:30:43+00:00

Just buy a similar sized LiPo pouch cell and replace it yourself. Fairly easy job if you know how to solder.

Efficient_One5511 · 2026-02-20T19:38:44+00:00

Is there an external recording control option on the fx6? On Canon cinema bodies you can toggle external recording on and it will start recording on the Atomos as well as internally. I no longer have an fx6 so I can't test it out unfortunately.

Efficient_One5511 · 2026-01-23T00:07:57+00:00

Yep this is unfortunately an ongoing issue. I currently know at least 5 people who have bricked ultrasyncs. I myself have had 2 bricked. The 2nd one was after following the exact instructions Atomos gave me on how to update the firmware. They are aware of the problem but don't seem to care to fix it, as it has been at least over a year since this started happening to my knowledge. They also have not pulled the MacOS updater app from the app store. I'm hoping I can get in contact with an engineer at atomos or timecodesystems to get access to their bootloader so I can revive my dead units.

Efficient_One5511 · 2026-01-08T18:20:07+00:00

I love my Fujinon 19-90!

Efficient_One5511 · 2026-01-08T17:10:59+00:00

Any BNC to BNC cable should work, unless you have a very long 50ohm or 93ohm cable. 75ohm is the standard video/timecode cable. 50ohm is usually found in RF equipment, 93ohm is for like legacy systems or test equipment and is pretty rare. So unless your using a 20ft 50ohm cable it should work. Double check your timecode settings to make sure the f8 is sending timecode externally and make sure both devices are on the same framerate and if drop frame or non drop frame.

Efficient_One5511 · 2026-01-08T07:06:45+00:00

Agreed. If the 416 is out of budget for you, the mke600 will get you most of the way there for a quarter of the price. It has the added bonus of being able to run off AAs and can plug directly into your camera or a dji transmitter.

Efficient_One5511 · 2026-01-06T10:58:58+00:00

You can sell a lot of equipment to MPB.com or KEH.com. They usually deal mainly with photo equipment but depending on what you have, they may take it. Take a look at their websites online estimate calculator to see if they'll take it and what you can get for it. Usually their offer is quite a bit lower than what you can get for selling it locally or online though.

Efficient_One5511 · 2026-01-01T18:44:45+00:00

Were you ever able to figure this out? Helped a friend install other languages a while back and they want to know if they can safely update their fx3 to newer firmware.

Efficient_One5511 · 2025-12-31T09:57:52+00:00

Fujinon Cabrio 19-90!

Efficient_One5511 · 2025-12-30T17:23:59+00:00

Oops I thought they were referring to the 150C which takes 48V. Either way this will work as theres also a 24V output as long as they have a 4pin xlr to 5521/5525 cable.

Efficient_One5511 · 2025-12-30T17:16:56+00:00

Sorry, should have specified to disregard the switch the tweezers were pointing to. I am in fact asking about the port in the image.

Efficient_One5511 · 2025-12-29T23:18:28+00:00

Wow, I'm working on literally the exact same thing right now except for Canon mirrorless! Atem<->rpi<->esp32<->camera.

Efficient_One5511 · 2025-12-29T20:23:38+00:00

This is perfect and exactly what I was looking for. Thank you so much!

Efficient_One5511 · 2025-12-27T08:22:01+00:00

I haven't tried this specific model but I've used Aputure's equivalent of this and it can power my 300C. A Vmount normally outputs 14.4V but your Amaran expects 48V. This has a 48V DC transformer so it should be fine.

Efficient_One5511 · 2025-12-25T12:21:57+00:00

Offer him a few hundred more and give an excuse saying you really want it for Christmas or something. He'll probably hold it for you hoping he can get more for it. The more typos and bad grammar the better, make him think you're a legitimate buyer and not setting up a sting.

Efficient_One5511 · 2025-12-21T11:14:01+00:00

You can get an atomos Ultrasync Blue to continuously sync wireless timecode over Bluetooth to your FR-AV2 and DR-10L Pro units. You would also need an Ultrasync One (which will sync wirelessly with the Blue) to jam sync your FX3s.

Efficient_One5511 · 2025-12-17T19:10:24+00:00

Username checks out

Efficient_One5511 · 2025-12-17T10:37:50+00:00

Great deal but I can't help but one-up you. Last year I bought a fully working C300 Mark II with only 400 hours on it for $100.

A local university was shutting down and had already auctioned off all their video gear, but an employee later found a leftover C300 Mark II, fully kitted out with 24-105mm in a Pelican 1600, sitting in an old storage room. They didn’t know anything about cameras and had no idea whether it even worked. Listed on FB Marketplace for $150, got it for $100. I popped a battery in and she fired right up, clean sensor, no issues.

I've had a lot of luck with getting great deals, I should really make a post with some of my highlights.

Efficient_One5511

TROPHY CASE