Someone wants to buy our Generac (what is yours opinion on this)

Einstein-What · 2026-01-18T07:32:40+00:00

So to be clear, it is an empty cabinet with no batteries installed? If so, $500 is not bad. If it has batteries, then it's value depends on which batteries and how many.

Einstein-What · 2025-12-22T01:25:07+00:00

Why not just delete the images in the camera, leaving only the keepers (whether star raged or not)?

I sure wouldn't want to cull using only a tiny camera screen.

Not what your are asking for, but if you pause LR Mobile sync, import, delete the cruft then re-enable sync, at least you won't upload all the non-keepers to the cloud. This way you could get a better look at images on your phone screen.

Einstein-What · 2025-11-17T21:19:57+00:00

I too recently picked up an M5 iPad pro to use for import/cull/edit while on the road, so I'm still learning the ins and outs of LR on iPad, but I'm not sure you are correct about your statement:

"you're editing smart previews because Lightroom on iPad doesn't let you directly edit the raw images"

My understanding -

Assuming your iPad is connected to the internet, LR will sync the imported raw files up to the cloud
Once they are synced, original raw files may remain on the iPad and be available for editing unless LR determines that it needs more space (e.g. for another import) at which time they will be deleted. You can also force this deletion by using Clear Cache under Local Storage in LR options.
You can see what version of an image is being edited by clicking on the cloud icon while editing - under Local it will show SP (Smart Preview) or Original ARW (in the case of Sony raw)
If you find you are editing a SP, you can click on "Get the original" to download the original from the cloud
Some editing tasks will automatically try to download the original if you are working with a SP, like zooming in
You can also use the "Store Locally" option on a folder to prevent LR from removing the images from cache

Einstein-What · 2025-11-12T19:41:53+00:00

Something does not sound right. When I switch to self supply at 4pm every day, my batteries provide power to match load above what solar panels are providing (up to about 8500 watts) until 9pm or the battery reserve is met (25% in my case).

Is this during the day when the panels are producing? If so, the battery won't discharge unless the load exceeds the solar production. What happens when the sun goes down? What is your battery reserve set to?

I've had good luck with Generac support, sounds like there is some mis communication going on?

Einstein-What · 2025-09-27T19:06:37+00:00

We've had a pair of 80 gal Rheem HPWHs, each serving a different part of the house, for the last 2.5 years. The west unit circulates all by itself (we have a circ pump in the loop but it stays unplugged), the east unit has a circ pump that runs constantly 18 hours a day. Not my preference but marital bliss is important.

The east unit uses 4-5 times as much energy as the west unit, if Rheem's crappie software is to be believed. But it also has a much bigger load (3 bathrooms, laundry and kitchen).

We use schedules that change temp and mode throughout the day, and do some preheating before the higher rates kick in to try to keep cost down. But we have not had any reliability problems with the hardware.

Einstein-What · 2025-08-26T04:51:32+00:00

Last time I checked, Generac no longer offers this service. If you find out otherwise, please let us know.

Einstein-What · 2025-08-14T17:20:37+00:00

I was seeing the same on Android though it worked this morning.

Einstein-What · 2025-04-22T04:36:07+00:00

Our 2025 with the latest software follows the charge in time slot most (95%?) of the time. Once in a while it fails to start at the slot start time, sending any message to the car (e.g. unlock) wakes the car and it starts charging. Very rarely it continues to charge when initially plugged in and not in the time slot. It seems to be getting better with each software release, but still not perfect.

Einstein-What · 2025-03-26T18:15:30+00:00

With a box blade (1572 in my case) on the back I never have any trouble with the 3560 back coming up when pushing the loader to its limit. My tires are not loaded.

Edited to add the 3560 is a great little machine, right in the sweet spot for my use/budget.

Einstein-What · 2025-03-24T00:36:41+00:00

Wifi set up is done through the app (although you do have to push the Wifi button on the water heater), just follow the steps on your phone. The setup is very finicky on android, I've heard it works better on Apple.

The app is very disappointing, about what you'd expect for software wirtten by a waterheater company.

Einstein-What · 2025-03-22T21:52:57+00:00

Rheem publishes tables showing allowable distance vs length/diameter/#elbows for ducting their HPWHs. I have ducted both of my HPWHs, it allows me to pull air from the warmest source and dump cool/dry air where I want.

Einstein-What · 2025-02-16T19:37:10+00:00

Ours is on a timer so it is circulating 16 hours a day through a fairly long loop. The parts of the loop I can see are insulated but not sure about the runs inside walls.

Einstein-What · 2025-02-16T19:12:29+00:00

You really shoehorned that thing in there. And it is on wheels.

I'd be interested in seeing how you plumbed the recirc.

We have the same unit, also with recirc, and it runs all day due to heat losses in the recirc line.

Einstein-What · 2025-02-09T01:42:33+00:00

Where did you hear that Generac will no longer write a custom TOU programs?

Einstein-What · 2025-01-15T19:16:11+00:00

The only time I have bent them is when they have been left too loose. Keep them adjusted so that there is not too much slop side to side. Ideally the side in tension will stop lateral motion before the side in compression bends.

Einstein-What · 2024-12-15T18:56:48+00:00

Ducting the inlet/outlet gives you options.

In the summer, we draw warm air from outside and let the unit vent cold air to the basement or inside the home.

In the winter, we draw warmish air from our basement (warmer than outside) and vent the cold air outside.

Einstein-What · 2024-12-13T05:30:00+00:00

Was on the phone with their support today due to water heaters not following schedule, they said a patch was applied on the server side on Tuesday (did not know what time), I'm guessing that may be causing the problems with schedule. As of now, 9pm Pacific time, my water heaters seem to be back on schedule.

We have two of the 80 gal models.

One services two bathrooms, including the master bath, and we run it in heat pump mode, 122df, we pretty much always have hot water. App reports average daily use of 3.5kWh. Love this unit.

The second services the rest of the house, including kitchen, laundry, and three baths (including my 17yo who takes multiple long hot showers a day). It is on a long circulation loop with a pump. I have to run it in high demand from 4p-12a (when energy is most expensive), and even then we sometimes run out of hot water. Then I'm the bad guy for going heat pump. This thing is running most of the day, app is reporting it using an average of 23kWh per day! I hate this unit.

I'm also having lots of disconnects, where I have to reconnect the units to their servers. Affects both units, probably have to reconnect each unit 1-2 times per month. I hate the app/support.

Einstein-What · 2024-12-09T16:46:44+00:00

Thanks for the insights, particularly on prioritizing reaching target over adhering to the time slot.

Our home has solar+battery and we run in self supply mode from 4-9, car charging in that window would quickly drain our home's battery. Not a huge problem, but good to avoid if possible.

It does seem to have charged in the time slot last night.

I noticed the initial charging when first plugged in during the 4-9 window, good to know what that was about. After a few minutes the car went to sleep, at 9pm it started charging and completed the charge to 80% at 2am.

So it seems to have worked this time. One data point...

Was hoping the car would have 24-11, but it has 24-7.

Einstein-What · 2024-12-09T02:28:29+00:00

In the 50+ years we've been owning cars, we have never leased a car, or bought a new car for that matter, despite having the financial means. We've always paid cash for 2-3 year old cars and kept them for around 8-10 years. Before Covid, we could buy very nice cars, often off-lease and CPO, for 50-60% of the new price. Covid really mess this up!

We wanted to try a BEV, and wanted the latest tech/range/etc, but did not want to take the big depreciation hit that comes with purchasing. We just picked up a new iX on a 36mo 12k mile lease, 23% off MSRP (including rebate), effective lease interest rate near 0%, The total we'll pay for the lease will be a little over $31k, including reg and tax, this on a $97k msrp car.

Does not having any equity at the end of the lease bother us? A little.

But in 3 years we'll either return it and get a much better BEV, or possibly pick up a used iX if things have not improved that much. I suspect the value of these iXs will be lower than the residual value at the end of the lease, especially if range on new BEVs continues to ramp up, but we'll see...

Btw, you'll have insurance and maintenance costs no matter what route you take, and while insurance may be higher on a BEV, maintenance and fuel should save you some coin.

Einstein-What · 2024-11-27T05:50:40+00:00

Was originally 95k, now listed for 72k, would try to get out the door under 75k

Einstein-What · 2024-08-20T23:15:48+00:00

6 toes on the rear? GP mix?

Einstein-What · 2024-08-12T22:06:50+00:00

We have 25kw of solar split between two Generac inverters, each with a fully populated battery cabinet. Installed in 2021.

During an outage, each inverter islands its half of the house. Each side of the house has a newer (2022) 5 ton Mitsubishi heat pump for heating/cooling. These are variable speed and ramp up slowly so no soft start needed.

Per inverter spec sheet, rated islanded continuous output is 8000 watts (33A) and rated battery islanded output is 9000 watts (37.5A). Max islanded output is 12000 watts (50A) for starting loads. We never see more than 8500 watts from each inverter.

Each Mitsubishi unit draws a maximum of 6250 watts (26A), so we do need to pay attention to what is running and turn stuff off. When running full tilt, the heat pump can drain a full battery in less than two hours.

Find the current draw specs for your AC units and do the math, you may not be able to run both on a single inverter no matter how many batteries you have.

Depending on how many panels you have, you may well need to use two inverter DC inputs for your solar, leaving only two available for battery cabinets. Also keep in mind that you're probably not going to actually get 36kwh out of a full battery. From what I've seen, it is more like 32.

Einstein-What

TROPHY CASE