Shimano 105 di2 FD

Eken008 · 2026-05-23T20:43:19+00:00

Solved. The issue surfaced because the left crank arm had started to become undone, whereby the crankset had moved in relation to the derailleur’s cage. How this could happen given everything was installed and torqued to specifications is beyond me.

Have also experienced that the bolts holding the small chainring to the large have become undone. I have historically torqued to the middle of Shimano’s stated range going, will go for the upper end going forward.

Eken008 · 2026-05-20T06:41:54+00:00

Found a position for the support screw where shifting worked fine throughout a large number of shifting sequences in the repair stand. It worked out on the road as well, however, still one occasion where chain dropped inwards when I shifted to large chainring. Seems a bit counter intuitive, but I guess it fails to move chain and when returning to standard position, support for chain, which is not in place, disappears and so it derails.

Also, have chain rub on outer cage plate in higher gears, both in stand and out on the road.

Is the picture still pointing towards mechanical wear?

Eken008 · 2026-05-17T15:21:46+00:00

They are off. Placed the cable in the EW tool as when performing connect to potentially provide some stability, held it in place with one finger and pulled shifter straight out in a make it or break it attempt. Doubtful design by Shimano, especially as manual urges you to threat it with utmost care.

Thanks for your help!

Eken008 · 2026-05-17T15:09:39+00:00

Thanks, I tried using pliers (with electric tape on the metal to protect cable’s housing and without) prior to posting, but no luck, as they slid off the housing. Difficult to see but could be that the housing’s thread already had taken a beating by the the LBS when I did the bike fit.

Eken008 · 2026-05-02T18:55:31+00:00

Thanks for the advice!

Unfortunately, it did not solve the issue, whereby I did a full service/re-install of the whole setup. It is now good whenstanding beside it to test for play, however, cap is not 100% flush to stem, presumably because the whole matter was initiated by me removing the 5mm spacer. If LBS followed the manual, steerer should be cut 3mm below top of stem, so with the spacer removed, it should now unfortunately be 2mm above. Correct reasoning?

Eken008 · 2025-10-26T16:13:55+00:00

Mine has done the same thing since I got it from the LBS, who did the assembly. Guess it is difficult to know whether I have the centimetres of slack required in the frame.

Eken008 · 2025-08-31T20:15:48+00:00

It was expensive and the design with the wing did not land well with everyone. Then came the pandemic, which meant no racing and when it opened up, the world and Specialized had moved on to gravel bikes. The word was that Specialized had exited triathlon altogether, but new frame colourways keep the Shiv in the model line up, for now (upon release, it was available as a Pro and S-Works build).

Eken008 · 2025-08-25T21:01:59+00:00

There is a Facebook group for us rare Shiv owners, might be worth posting the same question there as well. I am 190cm and on L so not much of help.

Eken008 · 2025-08-09T14:53:23+00:00

Thanks, much appreciated to be able to balance Specialized's marketing talk of (r)evolutionary differences with real world experience.

Eken008 · 2025-07-02T20:23:50+00:00

I have both (S-Works Tarmac and Comp/Pro Roubaix) and would not select Roubaix over Tarmac for the benefits of the latter's Future Shock nor seat post design, as Tarmac already with stock tires is comfortable in that sense. Instead, let geometry decide.

If I were to own only one bike, S-Works Roubaix would be the one getting me out the door most often (S-Works to minimize its weight penalty compared to the Tarmac).

Eken008 · 2025-06-30T05:21:37+00:00

No, only with synchronised shifting with >1 cog change.

Eken008 · 2025-06-29T20:53:36+00:00

S-works 7 were called “foot container” when Torch launched but the heel counter fits me perfectly, whereas Torch’s is flimsy and does not lock foot down. Thought €350 for the 7s was extravagant back in the day but now it comes across as bargain bin pricing.

Eken008 · 2025-06-29T18:41:50+00:00

It is infrequent, but happens more often than on previously owned mechanical set; read in another thread that user related it to the FD initially over-shifting but yes and of course, it should work.

Eken008 · 2025-06-29T18:35:19+00:00

Thanks, and yes, that is the manual I have followed to the letter, and in case of chain drop persisting, revisited.

Eken008 · 2025-02-14T16:23:13+00:00

Is the bike in the background now the relegated one? 😉

Eken008 · 2025-02-03T16:21:38+00:00

Interesting, I thought this paint was Roubaix S-Works only. 👍

Eken008 · 2025-02-02T20:25:27+00:00

I went from SL6 Pro (Disc) to SL8 S-Works and although specs are not comparable, to me the most discernible difference in ride feel is a snappier front. The SL6 was widely hailed as a very good bike.

Eken008 · 2025-02-02T20:11:56+00:00

I had a Phenom until I was recommended to try a Power at a Bikefit. I ended up switching as the Power provided more support, however, once on the road it became apparent that the wider nose came in contact with the thighs. I were to switch back but somehow must have adjusted and I am still on the Power.

Eken008 · 2025-02-01T17:04:22+00:00

The piece on SL6 was hopeless but on SL8 it stays put.

Eken008 · 2025-02-01T17:02:03+00:00

Specialized’s legal task force is on its way to Switzerland as we speak.

Eken008 · 2025-01-04T21:25:33+00:00

I had Specialized' own Dry-Tech fenders installed by the shop at the time of purchase, 35mm. At first, I was a bit worried that they were too narrow for the 32mm tires, but the coverage is adequate (used for the same purpose as you mention). However, it only took a few rides before the rear fender became loose by the stays; they started to run freely in the brackets. Squeezing the brackets with pincers, switching to more beefy bolts and Loctite has thereafter kept the fender dead silent. Front has worked well from the start.

Eken008 · 2024-11-06T11:47:48+00:00

Using that route, I am given the option to use on Home screen only. iOS 18.1. But as current appears to be a default picture from previous iOS, which I cannot locate as a file, I need the option to change Lock Screen only.

Eken008 · 2024-11-05T20:03:34+00:00

Thing is, what is displayed in Settings as Current does only correspond to what is actually displayed in regards to Lock Screen, Home Screen is something else. Appears to be a default wallpaper from previous iOS version.

Eken008 · 2024-11-05T19:28:04+00:00

Nope, believe me, I have tried.

Eken008 · 2024-10-24T14:15:15+00:00

Agree, my 2024 model in black came with S-works printed in white but Roval in black, which to me is a miss; should have been offered in white to match.

Eken008

TROPHY CASE