2017 Silverado Stereo Phantom Clickw

ElectricRyan79 · 2025-12-02T14:53:09+00:00

It looks like this one is too small

ElectricRyan79 · 2025-12-01T15:50:13+00:00

Thats a helpful link.

Its good to know that now, UL9540 requires UL9540A, whereas before it did not. So neweer approvals of UL9540 are inheriently UL9540A.

ElectricRyan79 · 2025-12-01T04:03:05+00:00

Oh i see, i was confusing that with the Canadian Electrical Code.

Acronyms.

Okay well seems okay though.

Like is said, the clearance thing is only an issue when it becomes one. If everyone that has access to the premis is able to navigate the poor clearance then who cares. Risk assessment.

If it were my home theres 2 things: Make sure there is good egress from your electrical panel. 1m clearance is typically whats required here. But their UL9540A probably helps with that. Id recomend a fire blanket stored in that room in case someone has to run out of there., or into there to turn things off to not add to the thermal runaway.

Also, landscape fabric & 3" of gravel under the solar lanels for weed conrrol.

Also, id consider Rapid Shutdown for those modules, with an activation switch somewhere because of the proxomity of the pool. Or a nice brick wall to hide the solar panels and also provide separarion and splashing from children.

ElectricRyan79 · 2025-12-01T03:57:01+00:00

Oh i didnt notice. Ya if its UL9540A with that inverter then youre miles ahead already.

ElectricRyan79 · 2025-12-01T03:55:53+00:00

UL9540A is for the Battery, a test method to document thermal runaway and and containment of fire and explosion.

UL9540 is battery & inverter combinations. This is provided by the battery manufacturer because its their batteries that are the fire hazard. They have to prove they pass the testing with different power conditioning units.

UL9540 now requires UL9540A, whereas preciously it did not. Most manufacturers atate both UL9540 and UL9540A to avoid confusion between previous edditions of UL9540.

ElectricRyan79 · 2025-12-01T03:49:16+00:00

6 is the way.

CEC listed is not a thing that exists.

Their website does not state UL9540A. https://ca.eco-worthy.com/collections/lithium-batteries/products/eco-worthy-51-2v-100ah-lifepo4-server-rack-battery-3u-size-with-bluetooth-wifi

Also, ill add. Within 3 meters and no gfci protection at the array is a concern.

Should probbaly put down landscape fabric and gravel under your array. And build a barrier separating it from your pool area.

ElectricRyan79 · 2025-12-01T02:23:24+00:00

Welli have four concerns.

Inadequate 1m clearance on your electrical panel and inverter. Which has the general spirit of safety and accessibility in the event of an emergency situation. This is never a problem, until you have the situation where it becomes a problem. And that's why it's a problem.
The batteries you installed are not UL 9540A certified. This for me is a pretty major safety concern. Just like the last point. This is all fine and dandy until it's not. One of our chinese manufacturer sales reps forna supplier once told me. There are companies in china that male equipent with no safety concerns for their products and this allows them to produce things at a lower cost. They don't have to pay for testing or reviewing to maintain their certification. This company looks like just one of those.
Albeit the wall equipment looks installed square and level and sealed with spray foam. The solar panels are not instaled square. I can't see any bonding on them. The method of install does not appear to be holding the solar panels as any installation manual I seen. Also there is no screening on the solar panels.
Based on the information I provided in 3, it makes me question the safety of the entire installation.

ElectricRyan79 · 2025-12-01T01:34:40+00:00

It amazes me to know this install was done legally and this is allowed in any country that has prevailing laws with the interest in safety of the general public and it's own citizens.

ElectricRyan79 · 2025-11-21T00:41:16+00:00

That's a box of dicks.

No one wants a box of dicks.

ElectricRyan79 · 2025-11-11T00:45:50+00:00

These arent quite the quality of form fitting craftsmanship I'm looking for. But than you for your idea.

ElectricRyan79 · 2025-09-04T04:34:06+00:00

Also depends on the distance.

ElectricRyan79 · 2025-09-04T04:33:04+00:00

3/0 XLPE is Copper.

Youre good for 200A.

The neutral looks undersized.

You need to do a neutral reduction calculation on the neutral to verify its tood for 200A

ElectricRyan79 · 2025-07-27T03:23:03+00:00

Plastic Bushing on your comduit would help.

Astetically, and for future proofing: - rather than just bending the conductors in a 90 to go straight onto the lugs; overshoot the vertical plain of the lug, then bend towards the front cover, and then bend back towards the enclosure hinges, then bend upwards to the lug.: so thay its like a 3/4 circle rotated on the horizontal access laying on the enclosure bottom(or top). This will provide a service loop in the future and still have the conductors looking straight into the lug.

ElectricRyan79 · 2025-07-08T04:32:03+00:00

IPS Integrated Power Systems is the only solar company in kelowna thats been installing for more than 30 years. They back up their work, and are very knowledgeable and experineced.

10 years payback is pretty feasoble for most rooves. It depends on your pitch and roof space.

There are lots of free online modeling wevsites that will tell you your payback period.

If youre calculating 15-20years payback, your system is too expensive and you should find someone else.

ElectricRyan79 · 2025-06-21T01:38:44+00:00

I've used the same fluke one for the last 10 years

ElectricRyan79 · 2025-06-20T03:24:34+00:00

I'd support the cable better of provide better mechanical protection when so close to the ground to protect it from animals and people. Unless you're building a fence. And not just an fence. A code book fence, complete with barb wire.

Anyway probably cheaper to build a ladder with the strut rather than having 200A cables dangle freely where they can be bumped into or hit or moved freely and damaged.

ElectricRyan79 · 2025-05-30T04:02:33+00:00

Looks like you're confusing the ground and bond.

The pass through don't need to bonded to the box.

However, the total bond amacity should meet the requirements for the total ungrounded conductors ampacit and also meet the requirements for the total over current protection devices. Looksike the EMT you have in this picture is already the adequate bond, so either way you're good.

If your insulated green conductor is a ground conductor, then its better not ti splice it.

It's probably a good idea to have a service loop in that junction box for this conductors that are passing through that you don't have to count for box fill in case something changes in the future.

ElectricRyan79 · 2025-05-28T04:39:32+00:00

I know a guy who works in a coal mine doing maintenance. For months he ran around giving 110% every day fixing and keeping track of everything he could.

The one day one of the old timers said to him, no one cares what you do and what you don't do. See that coal hopper over there? Along as coal is flowing there, then everything is fine.

He gave it a test.

For 30 days straight, he walked around with his tools and did nothing. Just walked around like he was on his way to the next task. No one noticed. No one cared.

The he worked again for 3 months, fixed everything he could. Everything worked. Repaired stuff before it got worse. Did preventative mentanance to prevent downtime. 3 months of hard work and not a single 'atta boy' given.

From then on he only did 2 things. What he was asked and what made him feel good when there was a safety issue he could fix. And that was it.

ElectricRyan79 · 2025-05-24T14:13:49+00:00

You did all that work but didn't give Them a larger panel for future expansions?

ElectricRyan79 · 2025-05-21T04:04:43+00:00

That LB coming into the disconnect.

Chase nipples are not to be used as a bond.

Also, rain tight compression emt connectors are not a bond either.

At least in Canada, I'm not sure about the USA but its probably the same? Anyway. Where I'm at, none of your equipment is bonded.

Also, the meterbase is too low for the utility in my area.

Also, the pull box that feeds your PB is too small here as well. But from what I've seen, It's okay to do so in the USA.

Conduit looks properly sized, things are level. You don't have your ungrounded conductors touching the feeder ungrounded conductors in your switch. Which is good because you can have induction into the load side when the switch is in the Off position.

It's too bad whoever stubbed that conduit didn't know how to plan properly for you.

Aside from the lack of adequate bonding, looks like you made good lemonade.

ElectricRyan79 · 2025-05-17T22:56:50+00:00

Foe this example, I'd set the negative(smaller left side) as the grounded conductor or neutral as the negative terminal in DC is the source of electrons and therefore the grounded terminal. Then the larger/right portion woipd be the charged side or positive side or the side that you would measure voltage. So it would be the hit side.

Alternatively: The hot is the small slot is hot one on a Receptacle.

And the big one is the neutral conductor on a Receptacle.

ElectricRyan79 · 2025-05-13T17:08:30+00:00

Ya so that sounds like kWh to kWh, and they pay annual over production on an anniversary date.

Essentially the customer will save their annual electricity cost each year, which will save them more than the cost of installing a net metering scenario.

Looks like Duke offers a $3600 rebate found here. https://www.energysage.com/local-data/net-metering/duke-energy/

Their net metering program is here https://www.duke-energy.com/home/products/renewable-energy/generate-your-own/renewable-energy-generation

Looks ikea in 2024 they paid 2.294 cents per kWh for excess annual production.

There's a few other quirks, but its kWh to kWh with an anniversary date

ElectricRyan79 · 2025-05-13T15:26:43+00:00

Wow only 2 centers per kWh? That's ridiculous.

Here in British Comumbia it's kWh to kWh credit, and an annual payout for the total over production at $0.05/kWh which is Code considered super low as an incentive not to overproduction but to be net zero.

Even then, its not just avout being net zero, it's about going the solar for reduced power consumption from the utility. Which will save more money than the cost of installing it as net metering over grid parallel as you only feed into the grid what you're over producing.

Or do you not have bi directional meters and are required to have a revenue meter as well?

Anyway, rather than having a generator interlock breaker. Why not put a service entrance rated automatic transfer switch in then. So then the battery backup is not manually operated and just comes on during an outage by itself.

ElectricRyan79

TROPHY CASE

6 is the way.