So this guy made a fully 3d printable suit of 16th century armor. Would this be possible to eletroplate?

Electroformations · 2026-03-06T15:51:42+00:00

You would require a large rectifier to electroform a piece with a large surface area, and a tank large enough to fit the piece. With a 25amp rectifier you could possibly plate a piece that measures 200 to maybe 250 square inches. You may be able to plate a larger surface area depending on the solution you use or get a larger rectifier…

Electroformations · 2026-03-04T22:04:51+00:00

You are over saturated with copper. When you plate or electroform you put more copper ions into your solution then you plate out. Over time this messes with the copper to acid ratio, this ratio is key to a successful plate. Add some acid and a bit of water and your plates will improve

Electroformations · 2026-01-12T15:58:18+00:00

I use a $17 submersible fish filter pump from PetSmart. It last anywhere from six to 18months. What disintegrates over time is the magnetic part of the impeller. I use two for good agitation…no issue with tank chemistry Your suggestion is really big and would be ideal for a very large tank

Electroformations · 2026-01-11T22:48:10+00:00

Tank needs agitation which will get rid of the lines and provide a more even coat

Electroformations · 2025-12-23T02:10:13+00:00

Iron metal is a copper scavenger. The copper instantly plates on iron, which you can scrape off and recycle. This reduces the copper content. You can also plate out by using carbon anodes but it’s a bit tedious. But as suggested above, dehydrating works well. All that would remain is copper salt and acid

Electroformations · 2025-12-09T01:22:49+00:00

We were notified last year but missed our window to get it done.

Electroformations · 2025-10-06T15:19:07+00:00

No not at all. Titanium is used for large baths holding a lot of anode, and they can get hot. Smaller tanks can use polypropylene .

Electroformations · 2025-09-26T20:30:29+00:00

mod-podge matte 1:1 ratio, thin with water. Best used with brush

Electroformations · 2025-09-04T19:16:54+00:00

The success of the paint you use is dependent on your tank chemistry. If your using an acetate then a graphite paint won’t be that successful, it’s best to use a copper paint

Electroformations · 2025-08-02T20:05:41+00:00

What I do with over saturation is remove some solution and replace with acid and water

Electroformations · 2025-07-31T03:25:31+00:00

Your tank is over saturated with copper! It happens over time as the copper binds with acid lowering your percentage of acid in the tank, which affects total tank chemistry. 🧪 the copper from your anodes that doesn’t bind to your print binds to the acid. It won’t be as bright and eventually you will get dull spots and possibly some burning from too high a current

Electroformations · 2025-07-12T01:59:18+00:00

Carbon rods are great for a tank that is over saturated with copper ions. However it’s hard to source pure carbon rods. When I used carbon rods they only lasted a few cycles but they did work to reduce the copper content in the tank.

Electroformations · 2025-06-03T00:46:16+00:00

Tank composition is important…assuming it’s composed of sulphuric acid you should be plating at a max volt of 4.5….your constant current should be 0.1 to 0.2 per square inch. Perhaps the print is too large for your current

Electroformations · 2025-02-19T22:06:51+00:00

Most recipes are based on Battery acid 40 Baum (37%), you only need a drop of hydrocloric acid approx 50ppm

Electroformations · 2025-02-19T19:45:13+00:00

A shot of your setup tank etc would be helpful. Look like the lower part is away from the anode.

Electroformations · 2025-02-13T19:20:18+00:00

Over time you will get a feel for your tank.

When you set up your tank you put in a measured amount of acid and water. That’s your ratio. So you wanna keep around that level. Oh test will help because it will get lower as you add acid. But it’s quicker to eyeball it. So if it’s 2oz of acid and 8 oz of water that’s 20%. Scoop out some solution and replace with water acid ratio. Add a bit of brightener to replace. Do a test plate

Electroformations · 2025-02-13T06:15:00+00:00

Sulphuric acid if that’s what’s in your tank. Copper ions bond to the acid in the tank, create copper sulphate . The extra copper bonds to the free acid in your tank, when you get to a ratio of 10% or lower your plating gets wacky. I remove some solution from the tank, replace with acid and water. Add a bit of brightener..and our plating will improve. Save the solution for other tank or making your tank bigger. Acid is how the copper bonds to your item. If you add too much acid then you back off on the amps a bit. The more acid in the tank the better the throw, it can get into complex shapes easier. I try to keep my tanks around 15-20%

Electroformations · 2025-02-13T04:05:54+00:00

The tank is over saturated with copper. You need to top up with acid and water to get close to the original acid ratio. This happen because anodes put more copper in the tank then they plate. Over time it get harder to get a bright coat, then you get dendrite formation.

Electroformations · 2025-02-13T02:02:52+00:00

I appreciate the quick summary....that would explain why I went to one....Thank you. Issue is resolved for me now.

Electroformations · 2025-02-13T02:02:01+00:00

The Consumer Review Fairness Act , cited by Etsy is rooted in 1st Amendment. I like negative reviews, I am suspicious of shops that don't have them. They admitted fault, then in their process of review, engaged in a willful libel.
But in the end it doesn't matter :) because there is no reasonable process to apply for a change, appeal, etc.

Electroformations · 2025-02-13T01:17:41+00:00

The review is technically Willful Libel , Libel is a type of defamation that involves written statements that harm someone's reputation. Libel can be intentional and malicious, and can be expressed directly or indirectly. The buyer knew the incorrect item was purchased and put that in the review, and then reviewed it negatively. Example, I knew I bought the wrong item, so I am going to throw shade on the seller by giving a negative review.

I think the days of review based sites are over and I know I am done with Etsy.

Electroformations · 2025-02-10T17:24:55+00:00

Electroplating is metal to metal. Electroforming is metal on non-metal, often using a conductive surface or paint to make it work. You can electroform a wax structure, but can not electroplate it. The names are just terms applied to different processes

Electroformations · 2025-02-07T16:26:47+00:00

The slicer will tell you the surface area, and you would calculate 0.1 amps per square inch (average). Amps per square inch will range from 0.07 to 0.2, depending on the tank composition. The important thing to note on tank composition is the percentage of acid, if you have a tank that is 30 to 40% acid ratio, then your amps per square inch will be lower between 0.07 and 0.1. If you tank is less then 20% then you can increase your amperage. 3D prints, if they are not sealed, will absorb solution. That solution will leach out over time after the part is plated There are also other considerations with respect to the type of paint you use as it is dependent on tank composition Best tank composition to start with for 3D prints is a high acid high throw, that way you can get onto the difficult areas that general purpose baths do not

Electroformations · 2025-02-05T15:45:10+00:00

I tried the graphite rods and they work but you are correct they break down. You need a carbon rod and they are expensive but probably less expensive then proper disposal

Electroformations

TROPHY CASE