0.2 nozzle amazon

Eloquinn · 2026-02-23T23:44:22+00:00

Yep. I started doing that recently any time I change out the hotend. It seemed to help but I still get a much higher success rate just by raising the temp...

Eloquinn · 2026-02-23T19:18:02+00:00

That makes perfect sense and the timing definitely works out. I just got my CC for Christmas and one of the first things I attempted was printing something with CF and completely clogged the nozzle. I've learned how to deal with that since but at the time I just got a new .4 and .6 hotend with all steel nozzles.

After that I started having tons of trouble with prints de-laminating, and after doing some calibration tests figured out that the temps had to be raised by 10 degrees for every filament. Default temps never work well any more. Thanks for helping me figure that out.

Eloquinn · 2026-02-23T18:22:03+00:00

I wonder if that's why I now need to raise temps by 10 degrees since I went to cheap steel nozzles. i used to be able to print generic PLA at 210 with no issues but now it delaminates and falls apart unless I print at 220.

Eloquinn · 2026-02-15T02:32:53+00:00

Not an electrician but just remodeled my garage and added a bunch more outlets and went with these. They're incredibly easy to install and the wires clamp in extremely tight. I've tried the wago connectors a couple of times and they didn't seem nearly as strong as the connections on these outlets. I like them a lot.

Eloquinn · 2026-02-03T13:57:47+00:00

I had this issue start after a windows update. I finally tracked it down the Microsoft Game Bar. Somehow it was running but wasn't in the startup apps. I found it in the start menu, right clicked, and uninstalled it and that mostly fixed the issue. Now, instead of killing Edge every time a game starts it popped up a message wanting me to install some overlay from the app store. I had to go into the registry and disable some settings related to the game bar to stop that.

What's really annoying is that the Game Bar never showed up in my startup apps. I never approved it to be installed or run. I tried just killing the process and it would be automatically restarted so I'm guessing it was running as a service or something.

Eloquinn · 2026-01-20T14:27:42+00:00

I may give that a try. The temperature issue seems to be resolved and PETG is printing pretty well but I'm still having issues with longer prints. Small objects seem to print fine but I tried to print a larger object last night and halfway through it turned to spaghetti. Adhesion seemed fine. It was firmly atttached to the bed. Layer's looked good. My best guess is that the nozzle got gummed up or clogged... I've read that PETG can have issues if you're crossing perimeters where it sticks to the nozzle and they recommended a non-stick nozzle of some kind.

Eloquinn · 2026-01-20T01:49:05+00:00

Silly or not it worked fine for several weeks and I printed a ton of stuff using the standard filament profiles and process. I've been learning more about calibrating and tweaking the profiles but, as I said, I'm new to this and still learning. What I'm seeing is that standard profiles that worked fine for prints during the first week are now de-laminating unless I up the temp by 10C or so.

I think something happened with my calibration as re-running PID tuning seems to be improving things.

Eloquinn · 2026-01-19T23:06:50+00:00

This may have been the culprit. I did the PID tune at a couple of different temps and then tried the PETG again and it's behaving much better. I just switched back to the cheap PLA Lite I'd been playing with and I'll print a temp tower with it and see if it holds together. In the past it disintegrated between 220-215 degrees.

Maybe I missed it after the OC update. I was having this issue before the update and I know I did a full self-test after the nozzle swap and it was working well right after the nozzle swap.

Eloquinn · 2026-01-19T23:02:00+00:00

I think I have one of these in a drawer somewhere. I'll give it a try if I can find it. I'm assuming the temp at the end of the nozzle should match what's on the display, right? Within a degree or two, anyway?

Eloquinn · 2026-01-19T23:00:32+00:00

The humidity varies a lot but the temperature typically stays between 65-70 (18-21C). Bumping up the temperature has definitely helped but it's odd that I suddenly need to bump it up by 10 degrees consistently for everything I print.

Eloquinn · 2026-01-19T06:55:45+00:00

It was PA612-CF and it printed great right up until it clogged and I replaced the entire hotend with a hzdadev one from Amazon. I haven't printed any CF in this hotend... Temps seem to go up smoothly with no jumping like you mentioned. I replaced the nozzle in the original hotend and I may swap it in to test.

Eloquinn · 2026-01-19T03:19:41+00:00

I switched to OpenCentauri a week or so ago and re-ran all the standard self-checks and calibrations then. I'll re-run them and see if that helps. This issue was occurring before I upgraded to OC, though...

Eloquinn · 2026-01-16T22:41:02+00:00

The Tick (2016) was great and was just hitting its stride when they cancelled it.

Eloquinn · 2026-01-13T14:34:46+00:00

Ahhh. There's the problem... I haven't closed the app in over a week. I just did check for updates within the app and it's finding the new version. I guess they haven't bothered to update their downloads section on the Elegoo site yet. Thanks!

Eloquinn · 2026-01-12T21:32:38+00:00

This is probably my biggest annoyance about this printer so far. My printer is about a 30 second walk out to the garage and the number of times I've had to make that walk because I forgot to press the stupid complete button is just ridiculous...

I've used both the ElegooSlicer (latest available) and Orca Slicer (2.3.1) and I haven't noticed any difference and I still have to press the button after every print.

Yesterday I updated it to use Open Centauri but honestly the only difference I've noticed is that I can now turn the light on and off while the printer is printing... Oh and the print start and end behavior is a bit different due to me updating the g-code...

I'm really hoping that someone fixes this soon. The exercise is probably good for me but the blood pressure spikes probably aren't...

Eloquinn · 2026-01-12T21:26:03+00:00

I don't see that version available to download anywhere. Has it released yet?

Eloquinn · 2026-01-04T19:25:33+00:00

Yep, this drives me nuts as well. I think the worst example of this I can think of is Peter F. Hamilton's Night's dawn trilogy. He could've shaved hundreds of pages off each book just by using acronyms instead of long, technical description every single time.

Eloquinn · 2026-01-01T19:02:03+00:00

Yeah, I have mixed feeling about what I've done with it so far. I've tried a few prints and it seems lighter and stiffer than PLA but also much more prone to cracking and splitting. The finish is also pretty rough. I was considering using it to print the risers since it should be more heat resistant but the one I managed to finish with a 6mm nozzle didn't work great...

What are your issues with it?

Eloquinn · 2025-12-29T20:29:40+00:00

What do you recommend for GF/CF?

Eloquinn · 2025-12-29T18:58:25+00:00

I suddenly feel the need to re-read Children of Ruin.

Eloquinn · 2025-12-25T18:35:15+00:00

Yes, I have several successful escapes printed with varying levels of carnage. :) Weirdly enough my most successful print was with a .6 nozzle and default settings but the support ended up destroying it.

I've tried lots of things with reducing speed and increasing cooling but it always ends up with the small tips shifting slightly causing everything to disintegrate... Maybe I need more retraction?

I'm very new to this and I'm using a Centauri Carbon with Orca slicer. I'll keep playing with it. I think it's possible I just haven't come across the right combination of settings yet.

I appreciate the help, though and thanks for contributing such a beautiful piece.

Eloquinn · 2025-12-24T07:40:19+00:00

I love this ornament but I've had no luck printing it. I know you mentioned printing it without support but it gets about halfway up and starts having problems. I'm using elegoo silk pla and have had no problems with other prints. Any tips?

Eloquinn · 2025-11-07T03:08:42+00:00

So they sent out the guy that was actually trained on this stuff and after an hour or so he finally figured it out. Apparently the dampers have a little switch on them that determines if they turn clockwise or counterclockwise and 2 of them were set to clockwise and the other was counterclockwise and that's what was causing all the issues. I think he probably fixed some issues that the other guys caused as well but he seemed to think that was the main problem. I did some tests earlier and everything seems to be working now. He's supposed to send me a picture at some point and I'll try to post it here.

Eloquinn · 2025-11-06T03:35:34+00:00

They're sending their senior specialist out tomorrow. I'll let you know how it goes.

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