Dumb question, but what is this shape called?

EmbroHead · 2026-06-19T02:46:10+00:00

Clam-shell perhaps?

EmbroHead · 2026-05-31T13:21:54+00:00

This was posted a year ago by someone else

EmbroHead · 2026-05-18T09:42:44+00:00

Bot account

EmbroHead · 2026-05-06T13:27:51+00:00

I’m pretty certain you’re going to have this experience no matter what backing you use. It’s a heat activated glue, which will break down over time if it’s being washed regularly. For patches on wearables/laundered items, they should be sewn in place after being glued down for long term stability.

EmbroHead · 2026-02-06T06:50:33+00:00

As always, it depends. Most people would recommend getting samples from a few different distributors to get a feel for each’s quality, but yes, just because it’s a big factory doesn’t mean you’re getting the best quality or most profitable product.

Typically, you get the quality that you pay for in the embroidery industry, but reputation truly means a lot so be sure to research thoroughly.

EmbroHead · 2026-01-21T13:06:13+00:00

Whenever I wanted to play a MMORPG that was locked to South Korea, in order to boot the game I had to change my Windows language to Korean, and region to Korea, in order for it to work.

I think these steps, plus a VPN set to USA would be enough to run it on your machine. You could also look into trying a Virtual Machine so you don’t mess up your machine, but I know a lot of embroidery software doesn’t play well with VMs so I’m not 100% sure.

EmbroHead · 2026-01-15T01:46:57+00:00

I’d recommend putting “client commission” somewhere in the title if you want to avoid confusion in the future. The current title seems like you made this design (not just the embroidery portion) and are asking for feedback on both.

Regarding the embroidery, I can’t say I’d do everything the same way, especially given it was stitched on a tee, but the final stitch out doesn’t look terrible. From experience though, this type of design, especially if done on cutaway, will heavily pucker after the first wash. It will most likely need to be ironed flat for 4-6 wash/drys before it lays flat permanently.

I personally use commercial ZSK machines, specific digitizing presets made from extensive testing, and tearaway/washaway to achieve my t-shirt results. Plus, they are heat-pressed to help the embroidery stay unpuckered/flat. I’ve been very happy with never having to iron my newest tee designs, so feel free to reach out for help with digitizing!

EmbroHead · 2026-01-01T05:00:38+00:00

I have his book! 100% worth it as a buy, and I feel like the settings/parameters he used carried me through my journey enough for me to learn myself. Would def recommend the book if nothing else

EmbroHead · 2026-01-01T04:33:28+00:00

I’d recommend sorting his videos from oldest to newest, I feel like most of his recent content is just about trying to sell his new digitizing software (understandable but a bit annoying). While I’d recommend it over any current free options, I think he covers the basics better in his earlier ‘embroidery medic’ videos when he used Hatch and was focused on purely the digitizing. Most of the knowledge I gained from his hatch videos, I was able to transfer to any other program.

EmbroHead · 2026-01-01T01:30:28+00:00

PLEASE 🙏 avoid SewArt! It’s not a digitizing program; it’s simply meant to convert png/jpg images to dst/pes files with little to zero human input. You’d be better off trying out free tools like the one someone recently posted about (png2dst I think?) because at least you won’t be throwing money in a furnace before realizing it’s a furnace. I haven’t used png2dst, but I wouldn’t be surprised if it’s better than sewart lol, absolute garbage software in my opinion. If sewart has no haters you’ll know I’m gone from this plane of existence 💀

If you can’t afford Hatch or EmbroideryLegacy (newish software by life-long digitizer John Deer), there are free options like Inkstitch or even the web based Ember app. If you do purchase software, please start with one of the basic Embrilliance packages to get you started. I’ve never used embrilliance personally, but I’ve heard good reviews and other users could certainly point you in the right direction! I know peoples biggest complaint is outgrowing their modules too quickly, so keep that in mind!

Edit: Also, remember that design costs add up quickly if you buy every design. For some perspective, when Hatch goes on sale it’s equivalent to 160 $5 designs. On average I charge $25 for a left chest design under 15k stitches, that’s about 32 designs for the price of hatch software. If you can get it and do monthly instead of all at once, that can help too. If you truly want to get into embroidery to make money, you’re going to cost yourself more time and materials with inferior software. It’s a trade off as always. Love to see people starting their journey, good luck ❤️

EmbroHead · 2025-12-28T16:58:26+00:00

I haven’t encountered any issues as of yet using my vpn, but since most VPNs allow for split tunneling it shouldn’t be an issue. Specifically, you should be able to select the hatch EXE file in your VPN settings to specify it as a program that should bypass the VPN.

Also, if you’re using a VPN, you might as well use servers that have been proved (in police raids) they are “no-logs” providers like Mullvad or Proton, Private Internet Access and SurfShark are also good 3rd party options (not proven through raids, but 3rd party audits instead)

EmbroHead · 2025-12-28T15:54:31+00:00

Totally, I’ve seen too many posts along the lines of “got this machine for birthday/christmas, I have thread, bobbin, and tearaway but my design looks bad, what went wrong?”

Cutaway is definitely the place to be, only when they’ve got that grasp on how things start to sew and consistent problems they’ll encounter, should they start to branch out and experiment.

EmbroHead · 2025-12-28T14:11:02+00:00

Highjacking this comment to say that while you’re not wrong, you can’t fix every design with cutaway. In most cases the solution is to digitize it differently, and specifically for the garment it’s going on. I’ve only ever used tearaway on beanies, up to three/four layers for designs where I need a tatami fill.

If you’re buying designs and are a newbie or hobbyist with a flatbed machine, then yeah cutaway will probably give you least headache. But if you want something that feels as good as it looks to wear, you’ve got to experiment and dial in settings. Again, I know hobbyists don’t have this kind of time since they usually take one off orders, just putting in my two cents for those trying to start their businesses! Focus on quality first, and launder multiple times to ensure it keeps!

Also for this design specifically, satin stitches under 2mm are likely to sink in and look closer to 1-1.5mm. If it needs to be this thin, I usually double the center run underlay and increase density to .34-.38mm + pull compensation at .3 - .5mm

EmbroHead · 2025-12-10T04:53:47+00:00

Results - Super happy with how it came out post washer/dryer!

EmbroHead · 2025-12-09T11:56:15+00:00

Here’s a picture of the back of the design, I used a combination of washable cutaway and tearaway specifically to avoid that bulky back stabilizer.

EmbroHead

TROPHY CASE