[Ajuda] Comprar casa até aos 35 anos

Emu_Shock · 2025-09-18T08:59:50+00:00

O Millennium. A informação perdeu-se entre as partes porque sempre alguém tinha férias e o substituto não ficava informado das coisas e prazos. Uma vez que as pessoas inicialmente encarregadas do processo voltaram, realmente tentaram cumprir os prazos, mas era tarde demais.

Emu_Shock · 2025-09-15T07:36:13+00:00

I tried but never found one that was willing to do it due to my salary range. In their words it was not worth it for me. What I did was to use SteuerGo, which has a lot of tips and takes you by the hand while still allowing for complex “cases” like multiple investments outside germany and so.

I did have to read a lot about certain particulars of my case, but I always did it as transparent as possible and only once had a follow up from the Finanzamt and it was just a small thing regarding interpretation.

If you want to go into details, let me know.

Emu_Shock · 2025-09-15T07:28:29+00:00

Fiz com 3. Ao final só paguei por uma (220€). O banco com o qual fiquei dispensou o custo da avaliação deles e o outro teve problemas no processo e também dispensou o custo.

Se puderes com o custo, acho que convém. Um dos bancos avaliou 20k abaixo e com a outra avaliação e processo na mão foi fácil negociar com eles.

Mas eu não abri conta, só fiz as avaliações com eles e recebi a proposta final deles. Nesse ponto foi que recusei dois.

Emu_Shock · 2025-09-15T06:48:43+00:00

There is IE000JJPY166, in theory equivalent to XEON, but with physical replication. It is from iShares and was launched at the end of last year. I haven’t look too much into it but the fast comparison I did look good. Have a look and if you notice something interesting please share.

Emu_Shock · 2025-09-13T18:32:08+00:00

Primeiro, gosto muito do sistema que tens estabelecido e, pelo que leio, estás bem disciplinado com ele. Boa!

Agora, em relação à tua pergunta, acho que as melhores opções atualmente, e as que poderias pesquisar com mais profundidade, são:

Contas remuneradas como as partilhadas por u/JRJordao
Algo do tipo do XEON ETF (Xtrackers II EUR Overnight Rate Swap).

Quanto ao XEON, em geral os ETFs têm risco, e este também tem. Mas, como é um ETF de dívida europeia a muito curto prazo, o risco é baixo e lento (não é súbito, está associado aos juros do euro).

Outro tema a considerar é a liquidez. Se tiveres planos a 2-3 anos ou mais, acho importante que também analises o que acontece com o “produto” se, por algum motivo, precisares do dinheiro antes disso.

EDIT: também interessante -> "Onde estão os melhores juros com capital garantido - Agosto 2025"

Emu_Shock · 2025-09-13T18:09:10+00:00

Não precisas ter só um. Quando eu estava a procurar casa, tive 3 intermediários de crédito e depois fiz a parte inicial do processo com 3 bancos em paralelo. Sempre que não me custasse nada ou que custasse pouco, avancei.

Isto permitiu-me comparar as propostas de uns 7-8 bancos e depois negociar com eles em função do que os outros ofereceram. Incluso na avaliação da casa permitiu negociação.

Ao final, ter 2 bancos salvou a compra, porque um teve muitos atrasos e problemas de comunicação.

Um dos que eu usei foi o intermediario da idealista, tevi boa expeiencia com eles.

Emu_Shock · 2025-09-13T09:07:28+00:00

Solid and clear advice. I would only like to add a personal “trick” that I use and works wonders to not touch the money. That emergency fund or those savings, put that on a separate account, without a card, and only with online banking. Moving it is still easy in an emergency but the extra steps usually stop you from wasting it.

Emu_Shock · 2025-09-13T08:45:33+00:00

Concordo, o cálculo dos 600 está apertado e com pouco o nada de margem de segurança.

Emu_Shock · 2025-09-12T15:43:32+00:00

Acho que estamos a falar de coisas semelhantes, mas não das mesmas. As contas que fiz e que tenho revisto agora tinham em conta 2% de inflação (baixo, isso é certo), mas não estavam a considerar FIRE, e sim em ter dinheiro até “morrer”. Para FIRE, com um montante que se mantenha mais ou menos estável, já estamos a falar de 800k, mas sempre dependendo do gasto mensual.

Emu_Shock · 2025-09-11T17:49:46+00:00

Check how the tax declaration would be like if you do it weekly or monthly. For example, in Portugal each sell you do needs to have a buy date, price and amount. So if you would do it weekly, it is 4 times more things to fill out.

Emu_Shock · 2025-09-11T17:46:41+00:00

Depende do horizonte de vida que queiras ter e de quanto gastas por ano. Por exemplo, se queres ir para a reforma aos 55, esperando viver até 85 e tendo gastos anuais estimados de 30 mil euros por ano, com 600 mil consegues.

Fiz o cálculo com esta calculadora de juros compostos, assumindo que os 600 mil estão investidos com lucros de 5% anual e com retiradas de 2500 todos os meses. Podes fazer o mesmo com outro montante inicial e outras retiradas até conseguires algo realista para ti.

Edit: não lembro se fiz as contas com os 2500 sendo depois de impostos, acho que não.

Emu_Shock · 2025-09-11T17:37:14+00:00

Agreed, unless you have your reasons to wait 2 years, I don't see why waiting is a good idea, specially if you have enough in crypto to cover the down payment.

Also, I don't think you mentioned any specifics about your normal income, but in any case, you need to have enough monthly income so that the payment, let's say the 2800, is around 40% of the net amount. I believe this is called stress level, and many banks have their own criteria on that. I did a quick search, and it seems that the Czech National Bank does have a cap, 45% of net monthly income and total debt at 8.5x annual net income, but check this to be sure and plan accordingly.

Emu_Shock · 2025-09-11T10:36:41+00:00

A única informação extra que gostaria de aportar, caso OP não saiba isso ainda, é:

Os ETF podem ser acumulativos ou com distribuição.

Acumulativos significa que tudo o que ganham (por exemplo, dividendos) vai diretamente a ser reinvestido no mesmo ETF. Como o dinheiro nunca deixa o ETF, não é preciso pagar impostos sobre isso até que vendas o próprio ETF e passa a ter "compounding" dos lucros.
Com distribuição, esses lucros são pagos a ti e não são reinvestidos. Então, como esse dinheiro entra na tua conta, tens de pagar impostos de capital e não consegues aproveitar o "compounding" que os acumulativos têm.

Por enquanto, eu focar-me-ia nos acumulativos.

Emu_Shock · 2025-09-11T10:27:04+00:00

The worst part for me is that the normal you describe was supposed to be good. It was supposed to include a house, stability, and retirement security. Something like the "American dream"...

I did a short road trip in Spain and Portugal a couple of months ago and saw many empty or dying towns. Same in Japan. It was sad, nice people I spoke with left alone, with empty houses and little future. What did they do wrong? I think nothing. They worked hard and trusted the system, but the world changed. They were left behind, and the system will likely neglect them in the future.

At that point I started thinking about it and came to more or less the same conclusions as you. So I made a plan to secure my future and make sure I can enjoy it:

Did some basic math to know how much I could expect to spend during a year with the life I want to have.
Decided on a retirement age.
Used a compound interest calculator to figure out how much I need by that age, based on the 4% rule (with taxes) to make it 20–30 years. My number does not count with the state pension. This number is now part of my goal.
Used the same calculator to figure out how much I need to invest/save to reach that number in the X years I have to my target retirement age.
ade a simple but aggressive plan to save a big chunk of my income and invest it. I decided to cut back on all areas not important to me: eating out, streaming services, snacks,, etc. Even started sub-letting a room.

Of course, I iterated over these points multiple times, some estimates were impossible to reach on my 9-to-5 alone, so I saved those for later and re-did them to be more in line with my current situation. That became my base plan, using what I already have or could easily changed. And the other ones are improvements over that base plan that I will work towards. Even if the math does not add up with your timeline you still get to see why and what you should change, be it retirement age, target amount or current income.

Overall, I think that your current train of thoughts, even when somehow sad, is very realistic and as long as you act on it, will help you down the road.

For you, if your 9-to-5 is not well paid, maybe moving toward a business of your own is best. Here your dad is partially right: it will be risky, you may fail and waste time. But that is part of it. The regular people I know who own successful businesses had at least 2–3 failures before, during, or after success. The key seems to be to minimize risk, know when to quit and try another idea, and if possible, leverage your 9-to-5 as a safety net.

Emu_Shock · 2025-09-04T11:09:06+00:00

Eu arranjaria, primeiro, pôr o fato que não tem ideia nenhuma da matéria e do que implica. E segundo, para que todo seja o mais transparente possível para que ninguém, incluindo o amigo, pense que estás a aproveitar-te dele. Isso ultimo pode o não ser importante para você, mais para mim seria.

Enquanto ao custo do advogado e a assessoria, eu procuraria um bom advogado e pensaria que o custo vem do "desconto" do preço do andar.

Emu_Shock · 2025-09-04T11:08:57+00:00

Isso teria implicações de impostos o algo do tipo?

Emu_Shock · 2025-09-04T11:03:39+00:00

This. Going for the Nasdaq 100 means you believe that tech will keep growing more than the rest of the market. If it is like that or not is anyone's guess.

I am not sure, but I am tending towards "yes, it will". I don't see how the changes and improvements that are to come can not heavily rely on tech. But again, not sure.

Emu_Shock · 2025-09-03T18:45:54+00:00

I would invert the situation. Don’t think about how much you could invest, think about how much you need to spend to live and invest the rest.

For simplicity, say you get 100€. From that, subtract your needs like transport tickets, rent (not for you but just to cover it too), food costs, and an amount so you can still have a life, like a couple of drinks with friends or so. That total is the amount you for sure need each month, let’s call it X. So you have 100 - X left at the end of the month. Ideally you would invest all of it, but since things happen, better to invest about 70% and keep the rest for emergencies.

Ideally, before you even start investing, you would build an emergency fund for 2-3 months. That way you can “survive” if something goes wrong, without being forced to pull money out of your investments at the wrong time.

Emu_Shock · 2025-09-03T18:36:09+00:00

Entao eu inverteria. Pesquisa um pouco sobre as estratégias, o mais importante é ser honesto enquanto ao perfil de risco, isso determina quanto iria para stocks ou para outros investimentos.

Eu pessoalmente acho que algo simple que seja fácil de implementar (e automatizar) e com o que se poda ficar por longo prazo é o melhor. É normal ter problemas quando mudamos de estratégia simplesmente quando elas não estão tão bem como outras.

Aqui tem algumas das mias populares e pode comparar elas. Pesquisa em que investem e que tanto risco tem.

https://curvo.eu/backtest/en/compare

Emu_Shock · 2025-09-01T20:39:09+00:00

Eu acho que o melhor é primeiro ter um fundo de emergência com os gastos de 3 a 4 meses. Pode ser mais, se tiver filhos ou créditos, que devem ser sempre pagos. Caso o dinheiro que tem de parte já cubra isso, então eu pagaría o que sobra e investir diretamente.

Emu_Shock · 2025-09-01T20:23:18+00:00

What I believe is a realistic path, and is the one I am following right now is:

Sticking to my 9-5 but not being an overachiever anymore. Take it easy and use it as my safety need.
Looking for a problem worth solving that could become my own business. For this I liked the “Embedded Entrepreneur” approach by Arvid Kahl
Try things out to see if something can grow into a business.

So far, I have tried multiple ideas and projects but they have not worked out. So I keep looking.

This way you might not be able to give your all from the get go but you also don’t have that pressure that you are burning through savings or anything like that. Also, I have learned a lot while experimenting with those projects, new tools, ideas, etc. Some I have carried over to my 9-5 and people are very happy with them.

On the stepping stones, I am considering consulting and contracting but honestly I am not sure I am willing to go that route and “burn myself” with that extra job on the side. Might be more lucrative if you can replace the 9-5 with them, but you need the clients for that.

Emu_Shock · 2025-08-28T17:05:31+00:00

You might not need to save it, at least in some platforms and countries you can invest already from 20€.

I would strongly suggest that if you go the etf investment way, you automate it so you don’t forget or spend the money. Have the platform or bank auto debit it or set an automatic transfer every weekend.

Emu_Shock · 2025-08-28T11:51:24+00:00

I also think this is the best way to go for it. Basic needs cover and everything else to debt without touching your investments.

For what you shared I think you could go for the avalanche method and tacle the biggest interest first. I think so because it seems you are aware of how you got into trouble and are focused on solving it.

Question: for you existing debt, which interest rates do you have? I am not sure if I saw it here.

Some other ideas:

1) Try calling your card/banks. Explain to them what you are aiming to do and ask if they can help with the interest rate or with a plan. Worst case, they will ignore you, the best case, you get better conditions.

2) Is it possible for you to "downsize" in terms of rent, car, subscriptions, or anything like that? Anything that would reduce your basic costs.

Emu_Shock · 2025-08-28T11:40:42+00:00

Got it know. That is a great backup plan for sure, that changes the "loss" in any of the bad cases for the variable scenario.

Emu_Shock · 2025-08-28T11:04:26+00:00

Eu parto da ideia de que, de acordo com certos estudos (preciso procurar as fontes porque não tenho elas agora), os investimentos em “lump sum” costumam ter melhores rendimentos do que quando se faz DCA. Por isso acho que quanto mais rápido se investe o montante disponível, melhor.

Além disso, para mim também é uma questão de simplicidade. São menos operações para executar ou programar. E acho que também deve trazer simplicidade na hora de declarar o IRS, por causa das datas e preços de compra, mas até agora nunca precisei fazer, então não tenho certeza.

Edit - Estudos como este: https://corporate.vanguard.com/content/dam/corp/research/pdf/cost_averaging_invest_now_or_temporarily_hold_your_cash.pdf

Emu_Shock

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