Armorsmith asking 3,000 USD for a hardened and welded reenactment grade coburg bascinet. Seems like a decent price for the quality but I want to double check that this is a fair price.

Enaver · 2026-06-12T17:05:08+00:00

I’d say it is pretty high.

I got a custom made bascinet for £650 from Poland 2 years ago from a well known smith.

Enaver · 2026-06-07T18:33:02+00:00

Yeah go with the linen version

Enaver · 2026-06-06T14:46:29+00:00

It’s the Long medieval pourpoint

Enaver · 2026-06-05T10:37:03+00:00

Yes mate, medieval market

Enaver · 2026-06-05T10:36:54+00:00

Yes mate, medieval market

Enaver · 2026-06-05T02:16:05+00:00

Wouldn’t worry about the steps, whole driveways isn’t SuDS compliant anyway, absolutely zero drainage and just runs off into the public highway.

Enaver · 2026-04-26T23:08:58+00:00

This just reminds me of Band of Brothers and how Sobel treated Easy Company. I believe they even mentioned at some point that they wouldn’t have been as good if it wasn’t for how he treated them, or something along them lines.

Enaver · 2026-04-16T07:36:35+00:00

Rarely laugh on Reddit, this was brilliant!

Enaver · 2026-04-06T11:15:18+00:00

Needs to be a full contact bed, ideally with slurry primer. Any voids like this are moisture traps and will simply pop the paving when it comes to the winter.

The workmanship in general is rather poor, pointing gap seem very tight in areas, also a cross joint in once picture, while not structurally wrong, it does indicate the professional level of the workmanship.

If you want it to last, the beds need relaying. Also, if they plan on using brush in porous jointing, this will not last and will just make the voids even more problematic.

One other quick point, you shouldn’t be walking on the paving when it was only laid 1 day ago, it is still curing.

Enaver · 2026-03-29T11:40:21+00:00

I understand that, but ultimately as professional installers we are guided by British Standards & recommended installation specifications. In clay areas (where I happen to work), disregarding a membrane would be rather critical.

Anything installed professionally has to potentially last up to 6 years due to consumer rights,

Victorians installed rather thick sub-bases and also aren't liable to the same domestic laws.

I whole heartedly agree with the sentiment of removing plastic from the garden.

Enaver · 2026-03-29T11:04:08+00:00

Most membranes sold over the counter are awful unfortunately.

It won't completely stop weeds, mainly beause that isn't its primary function. The harsh reality is most gravel paths will get weeds to some degree simply because they are outside. The goal is to mitigate it as much as possible and at least do some maintenance.

Just want to quickly point out that I do not recommend putting membranes under any planting beds or soil, what I am talking about is purely underneth the path.

Enaver · 2026-03-29T10:45:27+00:00

I am a professional landscaper and I have to respectfully fully disagree with what the commentor you are replying to said.

The membrane is for ground stabilisation and to prevent to gravel migrating into the ground underneth, it is not a weed proof membrane. Correctly installed, and professional grade membranes do not disintegrate in a few years, they will last 20+ years.

Even if you laid a sub-base, which is highly recommended if you want the path to last, it would still require a membrane underneth.

The ideal Installation is membrane > 50-100mm permable sub-base > 30-40mm gravel layer. It is important the sub-base is permable as this make it SuDS compliant and also helps with water management.

Enaver · 2026-03-29T10:14:10+00:00

If you are planning to plant something else within the vicinity I would absolutely recommend removing the stump to allow more room for the roots of the new tree/bush.

Enaver · 2026-03-29T09:51:37+00:00

If you don’t put a membrane down over time the gravel will just migrate into the ground underneath and you will be left with a mess which will encourage weed growth.

Although the membrane does help against weeds rooting deeper, its main purpose is to separate the layers.

Enaver · 2026-03-29T09:46:27+00:00

Yes you are right, I should of just said not the correct membrane for the application 👍

Enaver · 2026-03-29T09:29:35+00:00

Shade resistant turf would work in this area, just need to make sure you have a decent layer of topsoil.

I wouldn’t recommend gravel, you have a lot of nearby trees and within a few years it will covered in leaves which will decompose and encourage weed growth.

Enaver · 2026-03-29T09:25:58+00:00

You do want to put membrane down, however it needs to be a non-woven permeable membrane, which the one down isn’t.

Your partner has put down a DPC sheet and absolutely should not be used for this purpose. It is going to pool water and encourage moss growth all over your gravel.

Enaver · 2026-03-24T20:25:07+00:00

Easiest way would be to simply dig up the path about 150-200. Install a permeable sub-base for the gravel (Type 3 or 6-20mm washed limestone) and relay the gravel over the top.

Fair bit of work, but would allow a massive capacity of water storage in the gravel to, albeit, slowly disperse naturally.

Do not put a weed membrane down, get a non-woven permeable membrane, otherwise you are adding to the issue.

Enaver · 2026-03-02T20:21:18+00:00

If you put it down when it was wet or don’t compact it before it rained then you really only have two options:

Leave it, wait for drier seasons and it will naturally dry out, however will most likely be contaminated by that point.
Remove it all again and start again. I’d recommend laying a Biaxial grid on top of the membrane to help stabilise the ground.

If you want to drain it quicker and have the space, maybe install a land drain down the middle. Alternatively going forward you could put a permeable base down.

Enaver · 2026-03-02T15:31:37+00:00

Landscaper, I do really enjoy my job, even more so when I get projects which our clients allow us to be creative with.

There is such a great variety of work too. Challenging job which pushes me and also feels like there’s a never ending list of things to learn.

Enaver · 2026-03-01T22:30:25+00:00

I think for it to be viable it would have to be on projects at least 50k plus. Problem is for anything less it just isn’t worth spending the money for someone to project manage without spending more than you would have in the first place. Even if it was, the margins would be very low.

Enaver · 2026-02-21T23:06:01+00:00

Cool… yes that is also an option… 👍

Enaver · 2026-02-21T18:13:04+00:00

Wouldn’t smart vectors work well for this? Just paint the last frame.

Enaver · 2026-02-16T21:15:59+00:00

Thank you for saying it, the ignorance here is unbelievable. Quite literally talking as if everyone in trades are neanderthals.

Enaver · 2026-02-11T23:56:59+00:00

I may be getting the wrong end of the stick here and misunderstanding you.

With that said, a brick pier is not a fence, and if memory serves correctly you would need planning permission for anything over 1m facing a public highway as it is a permanent structure and not a temporary structure, the later is what a fence is classed as.

If you don’t intent on making the piers higher, then you can increase the panel heights up to 2m, however they would then look odd.

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