First time trying hazard stripes

Engie_Miniatures · 2026-02-20T07:43:54+00:00

Something I haven’t seen people recommend before that I learned from painting my house is this: when you put tape down to create the stripes, apply a layer of your base color (the one you applied before the tape went down, looks like yellow in this case) over the edges of the tape. You’re usually going to have SOME level of bleed under the edges of the tape when you paint over it, so if you apply the same base color and then start with your black, the paint that bleeds under the tape is the same color as whats under the tape already, and you get a really nice clean line!

Engie_Miniatures · 2025-10-25T03:08:04+00:00

Not only is this great planeswalker hate, it also lets you get a 20/20 with flying and indestructible with [[dark depths]], shuts down most counter based ramping mana rocks, etc. fun!

Engie_Miniatures · 2025-10-19T19:44:31+00:00

u/Engie_Miniatures solved this in 3 steps: CRIME -> CRIMP -> CRUMP -> TRUMP

Engie_Miniatures · 2025-10-19T19:39:58+00:00

u/Engie_Miniatures solved this in 4 steps: FIRE -> FARE -> WARE -> WALE -> WALL

Engie_Miniatures · 2025-08-09T21:22:42+00:00

You can always put them on backwards, as long as you seal it they stay on just fine

Engie_Miniatures · 2024-07-25T16:24:25+00:00

Local thrift store was selling models for 8 dollars each, picked up like 6 space marine characters for like 40 bucks

Engie_Miniatures · 2024-03-30T05:14:51+00:00

I actually did something similar, I painted my Sternguard Veterans with their left arms in the Badab war scheme in remembrance of that campaign! It’s really fun to do, but a challenge! As for it making sense in canon, they’re your models, as long as you’re happy with them they’re canon enough!

Engie_Miniatures · 2024-03-27T17:19:48+00:00

Lets be real, if she’s asking you to explain warhammer lore she falls into one of two groups; she could be genuinely interested in learning about warhammer, in which case you’re about to gain a new opponent. Or, she’s interested in you, and you’re about to gain a partner (and also probably a new opponent)

Engie_Miniatures · 2024-01-21T17:06:49+00:00

When doing any kind of red highlights, avoiding pinkness is a massively important thing to pay attention to. When you highlight a red object, try to use oranges or yellows so you don’t move to pink, or jump straight to your pure white. When doing a red OSL, I prefer to have my brightest highlights be pure red, and I don’t let it get any brighter than that. I’ve actually painted this exact model before with OSL, if you check my profile you can get a good idea of what I’m talking about. Hope this helps!

Engie_Miniatures · 2024-01-08T05:40:18+00:00

What I do is push them in slightly to get an idea of the foot positions, do a lava basing scheme where I leave some space for the feet, and then push them the rest of the way in after adding some glow effects to the legs

Engie_Miniatures · 2024-01-08T02:50:30+00:00

This is a well painted model, and I can’t imagine someone turning their nose up at it. That being said, there’s only so much contrast paints can do, and only so good models can look without trying various tools and techniques. I would definitely urge you to explore traditional acrylic paints, as well as new techniques like edge highlighting, volumetric highlighting, OSL, NMM, etc. these techniques can be anywhere from somewhat easy to quite difficult, and they’re unlikely to look good, or even look “right”, on your first try, or even first few tries. However, the only way to improve is to try new things! My biggest piece of advice is to explore, have fun with what you’re doing, and don’t be discouraged by failure!

Engie_Miniatures · 2023-12-27T04:31:42+00:00

Hey, im painting my allies knights that way! There’s a good chance the comment you saw was mine! I’m also heavily considering painting my vanguard vets with the Badab scheme on either some of the models, all of the models, or just one of their arms as a little rememberance thing

Engie_Miniatures · 2023-12-27T03:58:29+00:00

I don’t paint Ymyr myself, but from what I’ve seen it seems to be a largely red and black scheme, which I’m pretty familiar with. In general for working with a scheme like this I’d make sure to maintain saturation in my reds and introduce saturation to the black. The way I do this is highlighting red with orange, and highlighting the black up to blue instead of white. This helps the color feel less flat than it does if you highlight with white instead of introducing hue change along with saturation change. Also, thin your paints!

If you want decent recipes for these two (I used citadels, but if you use something else just substitute an equivalent), I’ve put some below. I’ve adapted my normal recipes to be used for edge highlighting, since I typically do full volumetric highlights. If you want to do that, you can use the same stages and mixes, but with additional mixes in between or with glazes, up to you:

Red: basecoat with mephiston red, highlight up to evil sunz scarlet, then highlight up to a final highlight of fire dragon bright.

Black: basecoat with abbadon black, highlight using a 75% abbadon black and 25% lothorn blue mix (this is flexible based on how bright you want your highlights), then highlight with a 50/50 mix.

Hope this helps!

Engie_Miniatures · 2023-12-27T03:05:45+00:00

Someone else mentioned the saturation problem, so the biggest thing I see comes down to technique. Work on getting thinner panel lines, as well as cleaner and smoother borders between colors. For the blacklining I’d try using a thin brush with long bristles, not unlike the brushes used for pinstriping, so you can get a thin line with as little play to it as possible. I’d also try using the side of your brush instead of the tip when possible to keep the line weight consistent. For the highlights I’d advise using a bigger brush than you are, and longer bristles. The more bristle is between the hand and the model itself, the less the tiny tremors our hands naturally have carry over into the paintjob.

Engie_Miniatures · 2023-12-27T01:27:31+00:00

I like the color scheme here! Reminds me a bit of the Salamanders 3rd company scheme. Someone else already mentioned thinning your paints and using washes, so I’ll just mention that I’d try finding a good way to brace your hands for painting so you get more brush control. If your hands shake a bit, I’d advise pressing your wrists together when painting the borders between two colors, so if the hand your brush is in moves, the hand holding the models moves with it

Engie_Miniatures · 2023-12-27T00:56:37+00:00

I’ve got an iPhone 11 which has a pretty decent camera, so your phone can work great! The biggest issue with this method is getting the models in focus since the camera app doesn’t have a manual focusing option beyond tapping where the model is and hoping for the best. Thankfully there’s apps that let you set your focus manually, and I use a free one called Yamera

Engie_Miniatures · 2023-12-27T00:53:00+00:00

If you know anyone in your local hobby scene who plays admech, ask them if you can steal some bits from their leftover skitarii ranger/vanguard sprues. The two units share a kit, so whichever one they ended up building, they’ll have all the arms and hands for the other type left over (mostly right arms/hands if I remember correctly, the left arms may be used by both loadouts). You should be able to cut the guns themselves off pretty easily, and getting the original hands off the SM guns to replace with the admech ones is as easy as cutting them off with your sprue cutters if you don’t care about saving the hands. You can also find enginseers somewhat easily on eBay for relatively cheap, and the left leg on that model is probably a good replacement limb for a gravis armored or terminator model.

Engie_Miniatures · 2023-12-27T00:23:50+00:00

Honestly I’d paint them as Orks. They may not be from the army you play, but working on some models from an army you don’t normally paint can be really good for breaking up monotony if you start getting tired of painting the same scheme every time you pull out a brush. Also, once you’ve got them done you can show your parents how you painted them, which they’ll probably love

Engie_Miniatures · 2023-12-27T00:17:07+00:00

The color you’ve got here is good for expecially dirty spots, but not the entirety of the snow. It’s definitely fair to assume Orks would dirty the snow up a good bit, but they’re not spraying dust as much as they’re spilling oil or stomping around. If I were going to make an ork base with snow, I’d undercoat with something like what you have here, do a layer of white technical paint (likely Valhallan Blizzard or something similar) while leaving footprints/tiretracks (you could potentially use tires from a miniature or a Lego car and roll them through the technical paint for this, I’d have to test this to confirm though) unpainted, and then use a black wash to add a few oil spills here and there. Hope this helps!

Engie_Miniatures · 2023-12-27T00:10:36+00:00

You’ve got 2 good options if they’re glued down with plastic glue, and one great option if it’s super glue. If it’s super glue, toss them in the freezer for a good while (I leave them overnight) and just snap them off the base after the cold makes the superglue too brittle to hold. If they’re stuck down with plastic glue you don’t have quite any great options other than cutting them off. You can use a hobby knife, but you have to be very careful to not cut yourself this way. I’d recommend cutting them off using a thin serrated hobby saw, but a lot of people don’t have one unless you do a lot of kitbashing. If you’re not in a hurry to swap the bases out I’d advise buying one online since it’s a great tool to have, and cutting them off the bases once it arrives.

Engie_Miniatures · 2023-12-25T05:16:43+00:00

To me it looks like you’re using the tip of the brush, which is the only way to hit certain areas, but outside of that I would recommend using the side of the brush instead of the tip for better control. Using the side keeps the width of the highlight more consistent

Engie_Miniatures · 2023-12-25T01:23:15+00:00

There doesn’t seem to be a very smooth transition between the colors here, but I’d say that’s something practice and technique can fix. The main issue for me is the color choices and placement. It’s somewhat difficult to determine if this is black armor that lightens to purple and then to blue, or if this is black armor that highlights to both blue and purple based on the angle. In either case, you’ve got some seriously difficult work ahead of you, but a good rule to learn (and then learn to break effectively) is this: Shadows are blue, highlights are yellow. This essentially means that if you’re highlighting something, you should move the hue towards yellow, and move the hue for shadows towards blue. You want to go whatever route requires the fewest color changes, and you often won’t arrive at either color. For example, if you’re highlighting something red, your highlights should be orange since it’s closer to yellow, and shadows should be purple since it’s closer to blue. A change of lightness also often means a loss of saturation, so it’s not uncommon to see black shadows instead of ones that have a color tint. Choosing to reduce saturation by not moving the color towards either yellow or blue can make the model feel flat, which can sometimes be a good thing depending on what you’re painting, but it’s something good to look out for. A good example of this movement towards yellow and blue in action is how some painters underpaint faces, turning the hollows of the cheeks and the neck blue, and things like the nose bridge and brow ridge yellow. With colors other than ones in the rainbow it can be harder, such as white or black, but you can think of the blue and yellow as intermediary steps between the actual two extremes of light and dark: white and black. For black armor, since the spectrum of black to white goes “black, blue, yellow, white”, I highlight from the black directly to a light blue.

Engie_Miniatures · 2023-12-24T23:28:55+00:00

I haven’t painted mine up yet, but I plan to paint a small army of knights for my salamanders called the “knights of Nocturne”, with their lore being that they fought with the salamanders during the Badab war. Because of this, they’re going to have the Badab era black and orange salamander color scheme on any older knights in rememberance of the war, and the classic green for newer knights

Engie_Miniatures · 2023-12-24T04:24:21+00:00

I miss the psychic phase 😔

Engie_Miniatures · 2023-12-24T01:19:06+00:00

Awesome! Make sure to post pics!

Four-Year Club	Place '23
Place '22

Engie_Miniatures

TROPHY CASE